Courregès Bids Adieu To Plastics With A Last Call Capsule Collection

Among all the shaking up that new Courregès artistic director Yolanda Zobel is doing at the iconic French house, one thing might be deemed unthinkable to some. Zobel has called time on its use of its groovy space-age vinyl that has slicked up everything from classic boxy jackets, miniskirts, and flat go-go boots. But, let's be honest, Zobel might have a point, because her objection is about its sustainability, or lack thereof, not its aesthetic qualities, of which she is still very much enamoured. "I have millions of meters of this amazing vinyl, and as it's the iconic fabric of the house, I cannot dismiss it – it's inspiring," she says. "I love the vinyl, its shine, but you can't say hi to the new without bye to the old."

So here's what Zobel has done. Launching on September 26 at a tiny pop-up next door to the house's Rue Francois boutique is a capsule called Fin de Plastique. It will be a mix of the existing autumn/winter 2018 pieces, as well as some pieces she revived from the archive, such as a small drawstring bag, sculptural collar and bow hairband, and all in that glossy synthetica. Every piece will be stamped with a number that indicates, in decreasing number, the reduction of the stockpile of vinyl which the house currently holds. (There will also be a few new sporty basics — hooded cagoules, track pants — as well as the house's classic skinny rib knits all with a colourful plastic bag print lettered with Fin or The Future is Behind You.)

The stamping on the vinyl looks pretty cool, a utilitarian flourish, but it also conveys an important message, calling time on materials and practices in fashion which are harmful and wasteful. And typical of the proactive, responsible way Zobel thinks, if you're going to make change, look to yourself first. "There's no better world coming, no future, if we don't take actions today," Zobel, who is committed to sourcing a sustainable and recycled version of the vinyl, says. "We are all responsible of doing that. I do that in my office, in my daily life, and also with my work."