Saturday, December 31, 2016

Fashion's New Year Honours List 2017

Victoria Beckham Anya Hindmarch and Anna Wintour are among those to be recognised in the Queen’s New Year Honours list.

Beckham receives an OBE for services to the fashion industry, 13 years after her husband, David Beckham, was awarded his title. Anya Hindmarch is appointed CBE, following on from her MBE in 2009.

Also named OBE for services to fashion this year are Imran Amed, founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion; i-D founder, Terry Jones; Angela Walters, Programme Director for Fashion at Central Saint Martins; and Simon Ward, chief operating officer of the British Fashion Council.

American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour has been awarded a Damehood, so too have Olympians Jessica Ennis-Hill and rower Katherine Grainger. Andy Murray and Mo Farah are among those receiving Knighthoods.

In entertainment, actresses Naomie Harris and Helen McCrory have both been named OBE. Wolf Hall actor Mark Rylance - who won an Oscar this year for his role in Tom Hanks-led film Bridge of Spies - has been awarded a Knighthood, as has Kinks frontman Ray Davies for their services to hospitality, Soho House founder Nick Jones and restauranteur Mark Hix have also been appointed MBE.

Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Franca Sozzani Has Died

Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia since 1988, has died after a year-long illness. Sozzani was known for her pioneering themed issues of Vogue which pushed boundaries and asked questions about the perception of beauty in fashion.

A literature and philosophy graduate, Sozzani began her career at Vogue Bambini where she began building a network of creatives with whom she would work for more than 30 years. Her relationship with photographer Steven Meisel was among her closest collaborations, and she broke conventions in the industry by enlisting him to shoot every cover of Vogue Italia during her tenure. Despite this she also championed the work of other photographers – including Bruce Weber and Peter Lindbergh – and was credited, at least in part, for turning a group of in-demand models in to what we now consider to be the concept of “the supermodels”. A keen philanthropist, Sozzani worked as a United Nations goodwill ambassador, and has been recognised for her fundraising with many awards over the years.

“Franca was one of the greatest editors who ever made a magazine,” Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and chief executive of Condé Nast, said today. “She was by far the most talented, influential and important person within the Condé Nast International organisation. She made Italian Vogue a powerful and influential voice in the worlds of fashion and photography by publishing ground-breaking photography and journalism. In doing so she expanded Vogue beyond what had been the traditional model of a fashion magazine and often courted controversy by doing so. The greatest fashion photographers looked to Franca as the creative leader who would give them the freedom and the scope to produce their best work and they did so, month after month.”

The British fashion industry honoured her earlier this month when she received the Swarovski Award for Positive Change at the British Fashion Awards, which was presented by her long-time friend Tom Ford.

“Franca was one of those people who really was legendary," British Vogue editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman said. "Powerful, beautiful, intelligent and creatively adventurous, she was the perfect archetype of a Vogue editor and will be very much missed by those who have worked with her and admired her for many years.”

“On a personal level I had the great privilege to work with Franca since 1989, and it was a collaboration which animated my professional life,” Newhouse added. “I loved and admired her, and I will miss her terribly. The fashion world in mourning.”

Sozzani is survived by her son, Francesco Carrozzini, a photographer and director, who was with her when she died.

Kate's Christmas Day Plans

She may be a supermodel of superlative standard, but Kate Moss's Christmas looks a lot like everyone else's.

"I spend it in the country with my family, the whole family gathering. Anyone’s welcome, any randoms as well. I like a random thrown in for good measure. It’s just yeah, the full-on Christmas works," she told BBC Radio 6 Music’s Shaun Keaveny for his eponymous show, which will air tomorrow morning.

"Of course there’s an Aga," she continued. "Nothing ever fits in there, it’s all a big drama. Running backwards and forwards between houses with who’s got a bigger oven than me and we can just, potatoes are over there and turkey’s over there and yeah, fun."

While the festive period may be familiar and traditional to all, in warmer months, however, the Vogue cover girl lets a little more of the mischievous nature come to the fore, and it involves her neighbour - and long-time pin-up - George Michael. Moss revealed that when temperatures soar in the capital, the pair, and Moss's daughter Lila, hang out as they are neighbours.

"We have done in the past, when it’s hot," she said. "He’s got a pool, so when it’s hot I’m like ‘Oh can Lila come and jump in your pool?' And he’s like, 'Yeah, come over.' And we can actually climb from garden to garden over the walls with a ladder, we’ve done that a couple of times."

Moss, clearly in a revelatory mood, also let slip a few more interesting titbits in the interview - most notably, her favourite karaoke song is Endless Love by Diana Ross and Lionel Ritchie; Soul II Soul provided her earliest music influence; and that she will be chief gravy maker come Christmas Day.

Carolina Herrera Sues Oscar de la Renta

Two of New York's fashion powerhouses are at loggerheads this week, over the talents of one employee. Monse designer Laura Kim left Carolina Herrera to take the creative helm at Oscar de la Renta, which a new lawsuit states breached a six-month non-compete clause in her contract. But all is not as straightforward as it seems.

Kim was a vice president at Herrera when she was offered the role of creative director at the label by CEO Francois Kress, Page Six reports. Kim turned down the role, reportedly on the grounds that Herrera herself was not aware that she had been offered the position, meaning that Kim would not have complete creative control. Claims made by Kim's lawyer that the founding designer was being "transitioned out" of her role at Herrera by Cress have not yet been addressed by the company.

Kim was then offered the De la Renta top job - or rather half of it, as co-creative director alongside her Monse co-founder Fernando Garcia - in September, following the sudden departure of the label's English-born helmer Peter Copping in July. The role was a return to the label for Kim, who previously worked at the brand for 12 years, before leaving in January for Herrera.

Ironically, considering the antagonistic nature of such a personal case, the court papers contained much praise for Kim, whom the suit called "a unique employee". It asserted that she is "very adept at creating designs that are what commercial clients are interested in stocking in their stores" and revealed that her 2016 resort collection for Carolina Herrera was the company’s “most commercially successful ever in its 35-year history" - albeit as evidence of why her alleged breach of contract is such a serious matter.

Although Kim's lawyers argue that the non-compete clause is unenforceable, reasoning that she was pushed out of the company, it still may have serious ramifications. If the lawsuit is successful, Kim will be barred from beginning her role at De la Renta until April 2017, leaving the company a key designer down as it prepares to show its autumn/winter 2017 offering in February - which was set to be the design duo's debut.

Wednesday, December 21, 2016

Ashley: Why 2017 Is The Year Of Beauty Beyond Size

I’ll never forget the moments before my very first photoshoot as a professional model. I was 13 years old, sitting in the car with my mom, praying and thanking God that I had been given this opportunity. I thought to myself, “If this is the only time I book a job, I’ll be grateful.”

And just like that first job, I’ll never forget the many career “firsts” that have followed: my first time getting a manicure on set (someone is coming to me to do my nails?!), my first time walking down a runway, my first time trying on the lingerie that I designed, and now, my very first Vogue cover - something I never imagined was even possible when I started working 16 years ago.

It’s incredible how being myself - with all of my curves and imperfections - is seen as ground-breaking. In a world fuelled by filters and the pursuit of perfection, it seems like keeping it real has become avant-garde.

The most rewarding part about the honour of being British Vogue's January cover girl is knowing how many lives we are changing. I'm hearing from thousands of women that they don’t feel invisible anymore, that they now feel that they have gotten their seat at the table. I feel even more inclined to continue my mission of beauty beyond size with the support of Vogue.

That's why this barrier-breaking cover means so much to me. Not just because I get to see myself gracing this British Vogue cover, but for all the women who have heard "no" all of their life. This is a triumph for us all, and a beautiful demonstration of how we used our voices to create change, because loving ourselves at every size and shape is not a crime, it's a right.

Sadly, we’ve all witnessed at least one not-so-body-positive exchange online or in person. We live in a world where others feel that it is okay to police our bodies. Too fat, too thin, too muscular - not close enough to "perfect". As women, we immerse ourselves in “self-improvements,” which becomes an endless pursuit to renovate our bodies. We are told that thick hair is beautiful, yet thick thighs won’t get you a boyfriend. That full lips are sexy, yet full arms should be covered and hidden away. But in reality, a lot of us actually like ourselves as we are!

At an early age, my mom showed me by example that confidence is sexy - even if it pops over your bra strap a bit. “Confidence is your most alluring possession,” she would tell me. “It is way more powerful than your appearance.”

It's only right that we close out the year and start off 2017 with a cover that makes a deep impact. This past year has been a whirlwind of wins - I’ve continued to make strides in championing beautiful curvy women and I now have my own Barbie that is measured to my own standard of perfection. I've been confident enough to speak up and show out for the curvy girls of the world, and I encourage more women to do so as well - to own your bodies unapologetically. We’ve set the tone for 2017. We have more work to do, but we’ve declared that thick or thin, beauty beyond size is our future.

Cindy: Why 50 Is The New 30

While some stars are in the constant pursuit of youth, Cindy Crawford is a supermodel who is happy to look her age.

"No matter what I do, I'm not going to look 20, or 30. I just want to look great for 50,” she told New Beauty magazine, reports US Weekly. “I exercise, eat healthy and take really good care of my skin. There's pressure on women to do the undoable, which is not age. But it's about looking great for however old you are, regardless of what that number is."

Crawford, who will turn 51 on February 20, regularly shares images of her life with husband Randy Gerber and their children Kaia and Presley, on Instagram - but pointed out that the kind of comments she sometimes receives put an unrealistic expectation on the star.

“I don't need everyone on Instagram pointing out that I don't look the same way I did when I was 20. I know that," she said, adding that being in the public eye "can be hard and that's where you kind of have to work on yourself".

Monday, December 19, 2016

Topshop Reveals Expansion

Topshop has confirmed that it is planning on opening up to 80 Topshop and Topman stores in mainland China, starting in spring 2017 in either Beijing or Shanghai.

“For the first time, both brands will deliver fashion to the shop floor and beyond by opening full-scale stores in China - host to the world’s fastest-growing retail economy,” Topshop boss Philip Green told WWD, revealing that the British high-street favourite will partner with - a members-only website that gives registered users access to Western brands, and who it has been working with since 2014 to help raise the brand's profile in the Far East - to roll out the new venture.

“The future of retail lies within offering an omnichannel shopping experience," continued Green. "Bringing together Topshop and Topman’s style authority and retail experience with Shangpin’s localised market and tech expertise promises a winning partnership."

Shangpin's founder and CEO, David Zhao, shared Green's optimism for the plan. "This is the ultimate online/off-line liaison, using our online expertise to drive traffic and Topshop’s…ability to make the shopping experience fun and stimulating,” he said today.

Candice: In Support Of Breastfeeding

Candice Swanepoel has called out the hypocrital reaction of those who have a problem with women breastfeeding in public but don't blink an eye at nude editorials and photoshoots. The model posted her opinion on her Instagram page, where she has been sharing images of her son, Anacã, who was born in October.

"Many women today are shamed for breastfeeding in public, or even kicked out of public places for feeding their children. I have been made to feel the need to cover up and somewhat shy to feed my baby in public places but strangely feel nothing for the topless editorials I've done in the name of art?" the model wrote, alongside a photograph of her son breastfeeding.

Many women today are shamed for breastfeeding in public, or even kicked out of public places for feeding their children. I have been made to feel the need to cover up and somewhat shy to feed my baby in public places but strangely feel nothing for the topless editorials I've done in the name of art..? The world has been desensitized to the sexualization of the breast and to violence on tv...why should it be different when it comes to breastfeeding? -Breastfeeding is not sexual it's natural- Those who feel it is wrong to feed your child in public need to get educated on the benefits breastfeeding has on mother and child and intern on society as a whole. 💪🏼💙 👫👭 #mothernature

Victoria's Secret Angel Swanepoel - who took a break from the annual lingerie extravaganza this year, that took place a month after the birth of her son - isn't the first star to use their fame to promote positivity around breastfeeding. Fellow Vogue models Miranda Kerr, Gisele Bündchen and Natalia Vodianova have all shared images of them breastfeeding their newborns on their social-media accounts.

Thursday, December 15, 2016

Anything Gigi Can Do, Bella Can Too

Bella Hadid is following in her big sister Gigi's footsteps once more, by turning her hand to design for Chrome Hearts. The model, who joined her sibling on the Victoria's Secret catwalk last month, revealed on Instagram yesterday that a collaboration with the LA-based jewellery, clothing and accessories brand is forthcoming.

Hadid gave a hint as to what we can expect from the range in the white T-shirt and jeans that she wore in the post, the former of which was emblazoned with the Chrome Hearts script logo and a letter B. Celebrity fans of Chrome Hearts's rock and roll style include Lady Gaga, Rihanna and even Karl Lagerfeld - so Bella's collection is sure to be in high demand with her famous friends.

¨So damn excited ! You have no idea what's coming! My new collection with @chromeheartsofficial designed by me, shot by my angel mother @laurielynnstark ❤️ I CANT wait for you all to see what we've made! Follow @chromeheartsxbella for more 😻🏁❤️ #chromeheartsxbella coming soon soon soon.¨

As one of the most in-demand models of the year, and a face of Dior make-up, Hadid must have been inundated with collaboration offers, but this one would likely have been a no-brainer. Hadid has been friends for years with musician Jesse Jo Stark, the daughter of Chrome Hearts founders Richard and Laurie Lynn.

While Gigi's collection for Tommy Hilfiger was an offering of preppy Americana, as a nod to Gigi's own style, Bella's range for Chrome Hearts promises - like the model - to be a little darker. More will be revealed in the coming weeks ahead of the collection's launch, thought to be planned for next year.

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

Roberto Cavalli Reaches Agreement

Roberto Cavalli has reached an agreement regarding its planned redundancies, reports WWD, under the leadership of new CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris.

News of the layoffs was first met with alarm in October by employees of the Italian fashion house when Ferraris revealed the plan was to reduce the workforce by 30 per cent. Following yesterday's conference at the Ministry of Labour and Social Policy in Florence, a total of 50 contracts will be terminated, compared with the 77 that were expected - 15 of which are voluntary. Ferraris revealed that he was pleased with the outcome.

“I am in particular satisfied with the sense of responsibility that the different parts have demonstrated and which makes us hope for the future," he said. "As I declared at the moment of the reorganisation, I am convinced that Cavalli has in itself what is necessary to restart. With the contribution of shareholders, employees and management, as well as of all external stakeholders, we hope to quickly reach our objectives."

As a part of the dramatic restructure, which also saw the departure of creative director Peter Dundas, Ferraris revealed that he was planning to close company's corporate and design offices in Milan, move all functions to its headquarters in Florence, and shut or relocate stores in underperforming areas. Bernardo Marasco, a representative of the workers’ union Filctem Cgil Florence which helped to organise a strike by staff following the news, said at the time, "There is a battle to do and we will do it to defend jobs and the brand on the territory. Mobilisation is the response to the company’s plans." Yesterday he expressed satisfaction at the reduction, although urged the company to look to use factories in the same Florence area so to be able to re-employ members of staff where possible.

“We have obtained a significant reduction of redundancies and a voluntary exit incentive higher than the mobility — from a minimum of 13 to a maximum of 17 months based on seniority and family obligations," said Marasco. "We will fight so that the sacrifices of the workers will be followed by the relaunch of the company.”

Karlie´s Work - Life Balance

She may be one of the most successful catwalk models of our time - not to mention digital programming whizz, NYU student, and regular Vogue cover girl - but Karlie Kloss knows the importance of keeping a work-life balance.

"It's more important than ever to keep a healthy balance and focus in that way. Everything is so social-media driven now. While technology has enabled so many positive things, taking a step back and being present is so important in all walks of life - not just modelling" she told us. "I feel that as a citizen balance is important."

With her striking supermodel looks and engaging attitude, it's no surprise that Kloss is in constant demand - her recent appointment as Swarovski brand ambassador and star of its Christmas campaign has ensured that you won't have failed to spot her somewhere near you this Christmas - wherever you reside: "I feel like I live in airports but the plus side is that it's so great to see the campaign in countries all over the world!" she laughed. "Plus it's a family brand that has such a legacy, which I love."

For Kloss's Christmas, however, she will be back in America, surrounded by her family. "I'll probably not leave the house, or get out of my PJs, for days," she sighed. "I love to cook, and - although I'm a little healthier than the rest of the Kloss family - I love to bake and experiment in the kitchen. It's really my favourite time of year."

The Tom Ford Fragrance Conundrum

Tom Ford's fragrances are unexpectedly at the centre of a stir concerning award-season consideration, it was revealed last night.

Members of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association (HFPA), which decides on the prestigious Golden Globe nominations (announced yesterday), were sent two bottles of Tom Ford's fragrances - one for men, one for women - by Focus Pictures, the production company responsible for Ford's latest cinematic outing Nocturnal Animals, starring Amy Adams.

While it is well known that film companies often attempt to draw the attention of members to their films by sending related material in the form of gifts, the limit to the market value of gifts that members of the HFPA are permitted to receive is capped at $95. Since the combined value of both bottles of perfume amounts to much more than this, members were requested by HFPA president Lorenzo Soria to return one bottle to the HFPA, which would then return it to Focus Pictures, according to The Hollywood Reporter.Golden Globe Nominations 2017.


"The policy is a little hard to police because you have both retail and discount prices, but we keep an eye on it as much as possible and that was the only clear violation we had this season," explained Soria. "I can also guarantee that nobody knows who sent what. It's a wasted effort and doesn't sway our opinions."

The situation has shone the spotlight on the gift-giving that occurs around awards season and the strict rules that have been established as a result. For example, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, which organises the Oscars, forbids companies from sending anything of value to its members beyond film screeners, which are also not allowed to include any testimonials of positive critic quotes.

Focus Pictures hasn't been the only production company to court members this year. La La Land producers Lionsgate sent out copies of the Taschen coffee-table book, Los Angeles: Portrait of a City; Fox Searchlight distributed posters for Jackie inspired by Andy Warhol’s portraits of the late Jacqueline Kennedy; Roadside/Amazon sent a poster of Manchester by the Sea signed by writer-director Kenneth Lonergan; while Sing producers, Universal, sent members of the Broadcast Film Critics Association - who decide on the Critics’ Choice Awards - an inflatable toy piano.

Philipp Plein's Message To Dolce & Gabbana

Philipp Plein has taken to Instagram to highlight a letter he says he has received from Dolce & Gabbana, accusing his brand of contacting members of staff at its Milan flagship in an attempt "to lure them away and work for Plein", reports WWD.

"Just received a love letter from Dolce and Gabbana's lawyer accusing me and my people that we would steal their employees," wrote Plein on his social-media account. "1. This is a free country and everybody can choose by themselves who they want to work for!! 2. If people are happy at their job they don't think about leaving !!! 3. I really love and respect the brand Dolce & Gabbana, it was an inspiration for me and many others to start my business and to work in fashion !!!! @stefanogabbana @dolcegabbana It is sad to say but everybody loves you until you become competition!!!!"

Just received a love letter from Dolce and Gabbana's lawyer accusing me and my people that we would steal their employees....... 1. This is a free country and everybody can choose by themselves who they want to work for !! 2. If people are happy at their job they don't think about leaving !!! 3. I really love and respect the brand dolce and gabbana , it was an inspiration for me and many others to start my business and to work in fashion !!!! @stefanogabbana @dolcegabbana It's is sad to say but everybody loves you until you become competition !!!! Since more than 15 years I work 24/7 on realizing my dream and building my company .... I respect everybody and I never received any support from this industry until today !!! I want to take this moment to apologize to absolutely "NOBODY" !!!!

Plein, who is currently building up to the opening of his London flagship this week, concluded his post: "Since more than 15 years I work 24/7 on realising my dream and building my company. I respect everybody and I never received any support from this industry until today!!! I want to take this moment to apologise to absolutely 'NOBODY'!!!!"

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have not responded on their official social-media accounts as yet, and the brand did not wish to comment on the story when we contacted them this morning.

Margot Bowman For River Island

River Island has enlisted the talents of artist Margot Bowman for its latest Design Forum collaboration.

The illustrator - who has worked with many high-end fashion houses, bringing her energetic brushstrokes and innovative vision through both product and print - has created a eight-piece edit for the high-street brand - River Island Launches Activewear.

Bowman, a Central Saint Martins graduate, follows in the footsteps of Zoe Jordan, Sibling, Eudon Choi and most recently Dominic Jones by taking part in the Design Forum which will launch at London Fashion Week’s Fashion Film event in February 2017. Her work encompasses references that are both far flung and close to home, incorporating music, art, fashion, moving image - something which both the artist and the brand are excited to bring to life through the medium of film.

The collection will be available exclusively at from February 19, 2017 with prices ranging from £25 to £65.

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Mulberry's Latest Report Card

When we met Mulberry's creative director Johnny Coca ahead of his second ready-to-wear show for the house in September, he was tentative to talk too soon when it came to the financial success of his tenure, despite clocking up industry-wide praise for his aesthetic direction. Now, however, first half results are in, and he will be pleased to hear that revenues climbed 9.9 per cent to £74.5 million following his debut.

The company is marking up a loss in the six months leading up to September "to investment costs and currency headwinds after the pound lost ground against the euro and dollar in the wake of the Brexit referendum", reports WWD, but Thierry Andretta, the brand's CEO, said that trading in the 10 weeks ending December 3, once again showed positive signs of growth.

Coca's first financial report card bodes well for the former Céline designer, who was brought on board in 2015 after a challenging period for the brand that saw it without a creative director since 2013. Andretta was brought on board shortly after Coca, replacing Bruno Guillon (who departed suddenly in March 2014), in a strategic move that aimed to create more cohesion between the business and creative sides of the brand.

“To have success it’s not only one person, it’s done by a team. I need to be close to the people that work for me and I need to know that they are okay. If there is a problem, I say to Thierry, ‘Can we solve it? Because it’s not cool, and I don’t like it when people are sad," Coca explained to us in September. "Thierry is someone I can talk to. Each week we have a dinner so we can expose every issue and find a solution. It’s like when you are family, or married, or whatever, it’s nice to have a dinner somewhere nice and a moment to reposition. We are very close and it’s really good to be able to make quick discussions. Not to be scary, just to be honest and talk."

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Inside The Fashion Awards 2016: What You Didn't See

That this year’s Fashion Awards (they’ve dropped the British) was of a different class became abundantly clear upon our arrival at the Royal Albert Hall. An oceanic red carpet and a glittering sun, studded with 8,000 Swarovski crystals and so enormous it would make a Pagan blush, greeted attendees as light streamed out from the Italianate columns of London’s most magnificent concert hall. Revamp? This was more a total overhaul of the British Fashion Council’s annual awards ceremony, glammed up to the nines and heaving with the A-list.

Once inside the auditorium, we were greeted by a furniture village of perfectly dusty pink velvet sofas positioned around tables littered with tulips, crimson roses, sparkling Swarovski sculptures and candles giving off an orange glow. Touché, Dame Natalie Massenet, we thought: until we bumped into Derek Blasberg, resplendent in…a dusty pink velvet smoking jacket. “I’m gonna be swallowed by the sofa,” he bemoaned. “Shame Natalie has such good taste.” Despite having just flown in from Miami’s Art Basel – “where the art was really not the main event” – to spend one night in London before heading to Paris for Chanel, everyone’s favourite gold-skinned Instagram king looked immaculate. Is there any down time in the diary? “Christmas with my parents,” he smiled.

Onwards, in search of a martini, and who should prove an able guide but Marilyn Manson? “The alcohol’s over there,” the self-styled Mephistopheles of Los Angeles murmured, poking our arm and gesturing towards the impressive selection of tipples in the sunken bar of a nearby dining table. “Unfortunately I don’t have the shrapnel to help you open it.” No matter; ten minutes later we had a perfectly mixed Vesper and were clinking glasses with Anya Hindmarch, claiming to be still recovering from her annual Christmas party the night before, but looking remarkably perky all the same.

A brief hello with Molly Goddard, nervily awaiting the announcement of the British Emerging Designer Talent award (update: she won!) and an admiring glance at Jared Leto’s wicked Gucci cloak (his bromance with the house’s Alessandro Michele shows no signs of cooling) and it was time to sit down. As we tucked into venison carpaccio and white pizza, talk centred on whether Lady Gaga would sing (she didn’t) and if Demna Gvasalia would show up (he did).

The latter was a relief; as an agitator, some speculated Gvasalia would eschew the 4,000-strong awards ceremony, but thankfully he even made a brief speech when he appeared on stage, cap pulled down low to obscure his face, to accept the award for International Urban Luxury Brand from his good friend – and now ours – Marilyn Manson. And as he claimed his second award, for International Ready-To-Wear Designer for his work at Balenciaga, the potency of his work was in evidence thanks to Stella Tennant. The model presented him with his award in Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2017 Spandex legging-boots. Tennant is 45. She looked banging. That’s fashion.

What Tom Won´t Let His Son Wear

Whether he's designing clothes or making movies, Tom Ford is known as an arbiter of style - so it's no surprise that his four-year-old son, Jack, will have inherited his good taste. No neon character T-shirts for the young Master Buckley-Ford, his palette of choice is decidedly more grown-up than that.

“Camel, camel, camel, camel,” Ford complained in an interview with GQabout his son's favoured hue, “all he wanted was camel.” He has now moved on to black, despite being told by his father: "Black doesn’t really look good on little children. You need to wear some colour.” To which the toddler concedes, “Okay, grey.”

But - like all small children - Jack has one item that he loves despite his parent's disapproval: a pair of questionable light-up shoes that Ford consents to being worn only when appropriate.

“What does Dada say about the dinosaur shoes?” Ford revealed he asks his son. “They’re tacky.” “And when are we allowed to wear them?” “On weekends,” the child grudgingly responded, a pair of Velcro Stan Smiths revealed as the toddler-friendly compromise.

The Fashion Awards 2016: The Winners

British Vogue took home a bespoke award at tonight's big Fashion Awards extravaganza entitled Special Recognition: Celebrating 100 years of British Vogue. The Marc Newson-designed trophy, which was presented to editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman by long-time collaborator Mario Testino, was created especially for the publication to commemorate its centenary year.

Following 12 months of celebrations - including the Vogue 100 Festival, the Vogue 100 Gala, the National Portrait Gallery exhibition, Vogue 100: A Century of Style, and two commemorative tomes - Vogue: Voice of a Century, and Shulman's Diary of My 100th Year - the award brings 2016 to a fitting end.

This evening also saw a host of other big-name winners take home their well-deserved prizes. From the Womenswear Designer of the Year, to International Model of the Year, see the worthy winners below.

British Emerging Talent

Molly Goddard - WINNER (presented by Alexa Chung and Jordan Barrett)
Alessandra Rich
Charles Jeffrey
Faustine Steinmetz

Swarovski Award For Positive Change

Franca Sozzani (presented by Tom Ford)

British Menswear Designer

Craig Green for Craig Green - WINNER (presented by Lady Gaga)
Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Tom Ford for Tom Ford
Vivienne Westwood for Vivienne Westwood

British Womenswear Designer

Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha - WINNER (presented by Kate Beckinsale)
Christopher Kane for Christopher Kane
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Roksanda Ilincic for Roksanda
Sarah Burton OBE for Alexander McQueen

Isabella Blow Award For Fashion Creator

Bruce Weber (presented by David Bailey and James Jagger)

Special Recognition Award

British Vogue (presented by Mario Testino)

British Brand

Alexander McQueen - WINNER (presented by Naomi Campbell)
Christopher Kane
Stella McCartney

International Business Leader

Marco Bizzarri for Gucci - WINNER (presented by Karlie Kloss and Francois-Henri Pinault)
Adrian Joffe for Comme des Garçons & Dover Street Market
Christopher Bailey for Burberry
Guram Gvasalia for Vetements
Stefano Sassi for Valentino

International Urban Luxury Brand

Vetements - WINNER (presented by Marilyn Manson)
Gosha Rubchinskiy

New Fashion Icons Award

Jaden and Willow Smith (presented by Edward Enninful)

International Model

Gigi Hadid - WINNER (presented by Donatella Versace)
Adwoa Aboah
Bella Hadid
Kendall Jenner
Lineisy Montero

International Accessories Designer

Alessandro Michele for Gucci - WINNER (presented by Jared Leto)
Anya Hindmarch for Anya Hindmarch
Johnny Coca for Mulberry
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Stuart Vevers for Coach

International Ready-To-Wear Designer

Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga - WINNER (presented by Stella Tennant and Carine Roitfeld)
Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Donatella Versace for Versace
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy

Outstanding Achievement

Ralph Lauren (presented by David Beckham)

Donatella On Suits Versus Dresses

Donatella Versace may have contributed to the allure of the gown more effectively than almost any other designer, but it seems that Versace herself is feeling the draw of the trouser suit this season just as keenly as the rest of us. The designer was in London for the launch of her new book, Versace, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, where she also revealed that there has been a shift in her approach to the fashion calendar as a whole.

“A woman is much more powerful in a suit than in a gown these days,” she said, WWD reports. “I still want to do couture but not necessarily put it on the website or on the catwalk. I think it will become more exclusive, I will show it to a small group of people. I feel a lot more comfortable doing ready-to-wear.”

Versace also spoke about friend and collaborator Lady Gaga – currently ubiquitous thanks to a new album and with appearances at the Victoria’s Secret show, forthcoming Superbowl, and the new Bradley Cooper movie A Star Is Born. The singer is set to play Versace in the next American Crime Story, but it’s not the first time she’s tried to emulate the designer.

“Lady Gaga was obsessed with my look, I’m not sure why,” Versace told interviewer Tim Blanks at the event. “But it’s great that she can go from the eccentric look with the meat dress to an elegant, glamorous woman.”

Did Burberry Reject Coach's Advances?

Burberry rejected the takeover advances of American company Coach, rebuffing "multiple approaches", The Financial Times reports today. The accessories giant was rumoured to have its eye on the British label last month, but neither brand has commented on the stories.

This latest rumour, attributed to "people briefed on the matter", asserts that there are no longer "any active talks" between the two companies, and that Burberry successfully "saw off the interest" from Coach - currently creatively helmed by a Brit, Stuart Vevers, previously of Mulberry and Loewe.

Burberry is emerging from a challenging 12 months as long-time chief creative officer Christopher Bailey prepares to step down from his role as chief executive officer - a position that he assumed alongside his design role in May 2014. Many critics, including the company's shareholders, felt that Bailey needed support with the business operations, to allow him to concentrate wholly on the creative direction of the brand, which led to the appointment of new CEO Marco Gobbetti, who will assume his role in 2017.

Bella Clears The Air

While Bella Hadid's encounter with her ex boyfriend The Weeknd - real name Abel Tesfaye - on the Victoria's Secret catwalk on Wednesday nightfuelled endless social-media analysis (the general consensus being that one would want to look as sensational as Hadid did when bumping into a former flame for the first time in a while), the model has cleared up any speculation that there are frosty relations between the two.

"Thank you @theweeknd for being the best and most incredible performer on the planet. You KILLED it, as always," she captioned an image she posted on her Instagram account, also taking the opportunity to assert that despite her serious expression, she was brimming with excitement. "I was smiling SO HUGE on the inside I promise!!!! The most fun and nerve racking experience of my life but I wish I could do it over and over and over again!!!!!"

The model, who appeared with her sister Gigi for the first time in the show, also took to her Instagram account to reveal how emotional she felt being a part of the lingerie extravaganza for the first time.

"I cried when I saw my sister put her wings on for the first time. And I cried again when @hoskelsa opened the show. And I cried again when @_dilone walked. And again when @ed_razek spoke," she wrote, referring to fellow model Dilone and Victoria's Secret CEO Ed Razek. "And then cried five more times after that just because emotions."

Osborne And Chow Out At DKNY

DKNY creative directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow will leave the label at the end of the year and return their joint focus to their own brand, Public School. The news comes shortly after the sale of DKNY and its parent company Donna Karan International (DKI) from Kering to G-III Apparel Group for $650 million in July.

"Given the company sale and subsequent change in strategies, we have decided to step down and focus on our own business Public School," said the pair - who have been with DKNY since April 2015 - in a statement, reports WWD. "It’s been an unbelievable experience to work side by side with the wonderful people at DKNY, especially our amazing design team and atelier. We wish the company success in the future."

In addition to Osborne and Chow, CEO Caroline Brown will also leave her role as 2016 comes to a close.

“As Donna Karan International transitions to new ownership and therefore new directions, I have decided it is the right time to step down and explore new opportunities,” said Brown, who would have marked two years in her role in January. “This decision accompanies much appreciation and admiration for all of the talented teams here, our founder Donna Karan and our creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. I know the company rests in good hands under the new leadership of G-III for the next stage of its development."

Donna Karan, who remained on as a close advisor the brand after she departed officially in 2015, said yesterday: “The people of Donna Karan have my heart. Together, as a family, we created and built two brands — Donna Karan and DKNY — that I will always be thankful and proud bear my name. I want to send everyone at the company my love and thanks for their enormous energy, passion, creativity and dedication, and good wishes as this new chapter begins."

While the search for a new CEO and creative directors commences, the company will be managed by Morris Goldfarb, chairman and CEO of G-III Apparel Group, who emphasised the importance of Karan's involvement with the brand moving forward.

“I’ve spoken to Donna several times. We don’t know what direction that will take," he said when asked about the possibility of Karan making a return, reports WWD. “Clearly this is an important name to Donna as it is to us. She’s interested clearly on how we’ve positioned it, how we protect her name, her DNA. Donna is extremely talented and I respect everything she’s done."

Thursday, December 1, 2016

Edward Meadham Returns

The news that London Fashion Week favourite Meadham Kirchhoff was closing last year was a loss felt keenly by the British fashion scene, but there is light at the end of the tunnel as one half of the designer duo behind it, Edward Meadham, is back with a new brand, Blue Roses.

"What I want most to convey, is that this is not Meadham Kirchhoff," Meadham said today. "It is not a collection with a huge grandiose theme or story, no elaborate or delicate frocks. It is just some stuff that can be worn on a daily basis in the real world, chucked in the washing machine and worn again - things that will get better with age. This is for the young, my fan-base are not addressed in fashion now - everything is both totally unaffordable to them and aimed at some 'type' remote from them. There is nothing for girls, for kids and weirdos. Blue Roses is for them."

Meadham briefly returned to the fashion scene last February when he created an edit of clothes to accompany Sophia Webster's autumn/winter 2017 footwear collection. His first collection for his own brand launches at Dover Street Market where it will be exclusively on sale, priced between £55 and £260. While hallmarks of Meadham's joyful, experimental aesthetic seen in the early days of Meadham Kirchhoff can be seen, for the designer the common thread is more literal than palpable.

"The name Blue Roses, a reference to Tennessee Williams, has been a reoccurring motif in my work forever," he explained. "A metaphor for 'otherness' of not fitting into the world and not wanting to as well as the illusion of artificial as a blue rose is not a natural occurrence. To me, blue roses are a symbol of defiance, of self-cultivation, in finding strength in what society perceives as weakness."

Hilfiger Heads To LA

Following its September extravaganza in New York, heralding the start of its new see-now, buy-now strategy, Tommy Hilfiger has announced that it is to hold its next ready-to-wear show in Los Angeles in February.

The decision to take the show on the road is said to be about "inclusivity, fusing fashion and entertainment, celebrating pop culture, and connecting our global consumers to inspiring, unexpected fashion experiences", according to Hilfiger, reports WWD. "The casual, cool, chic look that is leading the fashion world this season was born and bred in LA and I knew this show would feel at home on Venice Beach," he added.

The brand reported a positive response to its first see-now, buy-now outing, with several styles selling out straight away and a 900 per cent increase in traffic to its website in the 48 hours following the show. The LA show will incorporate looks from both the Spring 2017 Hilfiger Collection and the second Tommy x Gigi collaboration.

It will be the first time that the brand will be absent from the New York Fashion Week schedule but, rather than conflict with any other big-name brands, the label has decided to show on February 8th, the day before NYFW starts, meaning editors, buyers and other showgoers will be able to make the West Coast to East Coast journey in time for day one of the four-and-a-half week show marathon.

The event has been the subject of many of the latest fashion-news announcements in the last couple of weeks. Last month, NYFW regular Suno announced that it was closing shop with immediate affect and would not be appearing on the February line-up, while this week, Calvin Klein announced its intention to combine its menswear and womenswear collections during its February 10th show.