Sunday, March 30, 2014

Bailey's Self-Love Debate

David Bailey has no problem with the rising amount of photography created using camera phones. He's also recently become familiar with the idea of selfies.

"It makes no difference," he told The Evening Standard. "In the past, every journalist had a tape-recorder. It didn't make them Tolstoy. I didn't even know what a selfie was until six months ago. I thought it meant masturbation. Although of course it is masturbation of a sort."

David Bailey: Selfies
He is the second fashion legend in a week to compare selfies to self-pleasure. Karl Lagerfeld recently spoke of his contempt for them; describing them as "electronic masturbation".

"They are this horrible thing where you are distorted. The chin is too big, the head is too small," he told the Guardian.

Rihanna Is Officially A Fashion Icon

She may inspire thousands of young girls with her controversial style, but now Rihanna´s impact on fashion will be officially recognised by the industry, when she receives the Fashion Icon Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

The singer is in good company, with past recipients of the award including Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Iman. She will receive the prize at the annual ceremony on June 2, which will take place at Lincoln Centre's Alice Tully Hall in New York.

Introducing Chanel The Opera

Karl Lagerfeld  and Coco Chanel  have inspired a new version of Jean-Philippe Rameau's 18th century comic opera, Platée. The production, which premiered in Vienna last week, is now on show in Paris and will travel to New York next week.

Coco Chanel
The original story centres upon Platée, an unattractive water nymph, who believes Jupiter, the king of the gods, is in love with her. Sadly, she discovers that his amorous advances are all part of a plan to punish his wife, Juno, for her jealousy. The play was first written for Louis, Dauphin of France and his wife, Infanta Maria Theresa of Spain - who apparently wasn't very aesthetically gifted either.

The new version sees Jupiter played by a Lagerfeld lookalike, complete with a white ponytail, dark sunglasses and black suit, and he arrives on the stage using Chanel's famous mirrored staircase. Juno's character is made to resemble Coco Chanel, dressed in head-to-toe tweed, while Platée is portrayed as the ultimate fashion victim.

Dolce And Gabbana To Be Acquitted?

State general prosecutor Gaetano Santamaria has requested that all defendants in the Dolce & Gabbana tax evasion case be acquitted "as the case is groundless". He spoke during the first hearing of the appeal held in Milan this morning.

Dolce & Gabbana
Although an unexpected twist, Santamaria's request does not mean that all charges will be dismissed. The trial continues this afternoon, WWD reports.

Dolce & Gabbana have always strongly denied any charges or allegations against them concerning tax evasion. The designers' lawyer filed a 90 page appeal against  last year´s convictions in November 2013.

Design Your Own Prada Shoes

Prada is offering a new service this week, enabling customers to design their own Prada shoes. On March 26 and 27, shoppers at the label's Sloane Street store will be given the chance to create a customised shoe style based on its Made To Order Décolleté collection.

Customised Prada
Prada fans can choose from nine different models - from pumps and peep toes to platforms, varying heel heights and an array of colours for both the uppers and soles. There will be a choice of materials, too - suede, satin, patent and different kinds of leather.

Our favourite touch? The option to add your initials in amber-coloured metal below the Prada logo. Each order will be ready approximately a month after the order.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Bulgari To Restore Rome’s Spanish Steps

Bulgari has pledged to invest €1.5 million into restoring Rome's famous Spanish Steps. The two-year refurbishment starts in 2015.

The luxury label is calling the donation a "special gift from Bulgari to its city" and marks the jeweller's 130th anniversary. The baroque-style stairway was built in the 18th century and is one of Rome's most famous landmarks.

Rome: The Spanish Steps
The Italian fashion world has been keen to help maintain its country's historical sites in recent years - Tod's has helped fund the restoration of the Colosseum, while Fendi is refurbishing the Trevi Fountain.

Why Cara Is Not The New Kate

Storm Model Management co-founder  Sarah Doukas has revealed the key differences between Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss.The models - who are both signed to the agency - are often compared to one another in the press.

Doukas's brother, Simon Chambers - who helps run the agency - joined her at the  Conde Nast College to give the students an insight into the world of modelling. She pointed out that there is a generational difference between the two models, with regard to what can now be done with social media.

"For Cara, it just comes naturally to use social media and it's just part of the way she lives," she said. "I mean the other day she took a selfie on the catwalk. Nobody else from another generation, perhaps Kate's, would even consider doing that."

Cara Delevingne
Chambers went on to discuss how, in this new age of social media, brands have to engage customers in a "3-D aspect". He spoke about how a campaign is no longer just about one beautiful photograph, but the model now has to be seen to be the person in that campaign and this has to be shown through all the different layers of marketing - from the campaign image to the behind-the-scenes imagery.

"Cara is a lot like social media itself - innovative, exciting and can't stop expressing herself," he said.

However, Doukas was keen to point out the importance of not allowing their girl wonder to become oversaturated in the market. She revealed that they have to turn down at least 70 per cent of what Delevingne is asked to do, admitting: "We spend our lives saying no."

Delevingne is not the only face that the owner of Storm is excited to be representing. The legendary spotter gave us an insight into who she thinks we should look out for in the next few months - Lottie Moss is expected to have a bright future ahead of her, as is Ella Richards (Keith Richards's granddaughter, who recently walked for Tom Ford and Giles). Saudi Arabian-born 19-year-old beauty Alewya Demmisse - who appeared in the latest issue of Vogue - is also one to keep your eyes peeled for.

What would Doukas's advice be to aspiring models? "Just go for it and walk through the door!" Also, remember that, "A good agency will be able to tell from even a Facebook profile or a phone photo if you have the potential - expensive portfolios are never necessary." She also warned that you should be smart about giving your information away until you know exactly who you are talking to.

For Sale: Gisele’s $50 Million LA Chateau

Gisele Budchen´s Los Angeles home is  on the market  for a staggering, but probably justifiable, $50 million. The world's richest supermodel and her NFL quarterback husband, Tom Brady, are said to have bought the land that the house stands on for $11 million in 2008, before they married, and have spent the past five years and a rumoured $20 million creating the 14,000sq ft chateau we see today.

Designed by architect Richard Landry and decorated by interior designer Joan Behnke, the house has five bedrooms, nine bathrooms and all the eco-aware mod cons that the couple desired - including solar panels, composting, a mini farm (complete with chickens and a vegetable patch), and greywater systems. With almost four acres of garden, which boast a koi-stocked moat and infinity pool, the exterior is almost - if not quite - as stunning as the interior, which features a neutral colour scheme, homely furnishings and plenty of space.

GModel Home: Gisele Budchen
"I like simplicity and cosiness," Bündchen said in an interview with Architectural Digest, which photographed the house for the October 2013 issue. "I want to live in a place that feels like a real home, where you can put your feet up on the couch and just relax." Brady agreed: "Gisele and I have eight sisters between us, and there are lots of kids. We built this house as a sanctuary for our family - a place where we can enjoy being together."

So why then, when it took five years to build and decorate - and was the place that motivated Bündchen to declare, "It was important for us to plant roots for our family" - is the foursome leaving already? Moving nearer to Brady's team, and their current base, in Boston seems to be the favoured explanation, although we'd need a better reason than a gruelling six-hour commute to abandon this castle.

Did You Know About The Zara Outlet Store?

Zara has an outlet store. To those living in Spain, Lefties is a familiar name that's been in operation since 1993, selling Zara's leftover last-season pieces, but Inditex - the Spanish company that owns Zara - hopes to raise its profile by redesigning and increasing the number of stores.
Inditex is rebranding Lefties (a name derived from the term left-overs) into a budget fashion powerhouse that's set to rival H&M and Primark, with prices 30 per cent lower than Zara. In recent months, the layouts of the label's stores have been improved, with better lighting and television screens showing off new collections, while new designers, pattern-makers and buyers have been recruited to work on the brand's aesthetic. While Inditex has been closing some of its Zara stores, it has been steadily increasing the number of Lefties outlets over the past two years. Unfortunately, a Zara spokesperson told us that there are no plans for the label to open in the UK at present.

"I think it's only a matter of time before Inditex treats it as a separate brand and breaks out its figures," Carlos Hernandez, from retail consultancy Planet Retail, told Reuters, as reported by The Telegraph. "I think they could export the brand to other countries where Inditex has a large presence like the UK and Germany. Spain is not the only country where the economic crisis has taken its toll."

Remembering L’Wren Scott

Tributes  have started pouring in for L´Wren Scott, following the designer's death. She was found in her Manhattan apartment yesterday morning in an apparent suicide.

"Words don't fill the void I have for the loss of my dear friend L'Wren," musician and photographer Bryan Adams, told us. "She was an extraordinary talented beauty, who was dedicated to her man and the close circle of friends she had. I will miss her laugh and watching her walk, the grace... the height! We had many good times together, and some years ago I even photographed her for British Vogue. Fashion has lost an icon, and my deepest condolences to Mick and all that knew and loved her. She will be greatly missed."

Milliner  Stephen Jones, who knew Scott as a friend and colleague, also paid his respects. They first met in the mid-Eighties, when both designers were working at Thierry Mugler in Paris and became "firm friends."

L´Wren Scott
"Recently, we have had tremendous fun, each season collaborating on her own collections, exploring another fashion adventure, be it Tuxedo Terrace, Tea-Time or my personal favourite, Yorkshire Pudding," said Jones. "L'Wren's sense of dramatic glamour, long-limbed elegance and pizzazz was celebrated in an exhibition we launched in Qatar last November. She dazzled her fans with her charming vivacity as much as her exquisitely embroidered dresses. I am proud to have known her and have been able to call her one of my closest friends."

Make-up artist Bobbi Brown, who collaborated with Scott on a cosmetics line last month, was "devastated" at the news. "She was an incredible designer who I considered a friend," she said. "My heartfelt condolences go out to her loved ones."

Hairstylist Sam McKnight praised Scott's "passion for old-school beauty and style". "We shared a love of gardens and flowers, too," he told us. "I had the pleasure of doing the hair for her last two London shows, which were pure unadulterated glamour; and that is how I'll remember her - the ultimate glamour girl. We'll miss you L'Wren."

Photographer Bruce Weber launched Scott's modelling career, scouting her in her home state of Utah when she was a teenager. He brought her to Paris where she began working for Thierry Mugler and Chanel.

"It's hard to comprehend," he told  WWD"I adored L'Wren the moment I met her, took her picture and told her she was so special - she'll find her way in Paris. And she did. Ever since then I used to tease her that she had the most beautiful legs I had ever seen on any girl. I used to call her 'Pretty Legs'."

Scott's glamorous designs had a wide-ranging appeal, and were worn by Sarah Jessica Parker and Nicole Kidman - who was too "heartbroken and shocked to say anything", her spokesperson said on Twitter.

"There was a delight to her that is hard to imagine extinguished," said Parker. "She didn't reveal another side to me but, of course, we are all complex as human beings, and I wouldn't have claimed to be privy to that other part of late. She had discipline, skill and talent, and the recognition was an enormous source of pride for her because she waited so long and worked so diligently."

Supermodel  Naomi Campbell, who had known the designer since she was 17, described her as "the epitome of elegance and femininity, yet still had a girlish quality".

"We travelled the world together many times. L'Wren was someone I always loved," she said. "I will miss her honesty and I will miss her friendship. My heart goes out to Mick and all who loved her and were loved by her. May she rest in peace."

Christian Dior PR manager Sydney Finch also remembered the designer for her warmth - and also as the godmother of her daughter.

"L'Wren was my dear, dear friend, whom I loved," she said. "She was a beautiful, insightful, compassionate, generous and exceptionally talented woman. My heart is with Mick and all of her family. I will miss her always."

Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman said, "L'Wren Scott had a very clear notion of style which informed everything she did. It's not easy making the transition from stylist to designer, but every year L'Wren's recognition as a designer and creator of a brand was increasing."

On Twitter, Bianca Jagger was "heartbroken" at the news, saying, "My thoughts and prayers are with her family. May she rest in peace." Marc Jacobs commented, "Rest in peace, L'Wren Scott. You'll forever be missed."

Scott's partner of 13 years, Mick Jagger posted the following message on his website today:

"I am still struggling to understand how my lover and best friend could end her life in this tragic way," he wrote. "We spent many wonderful years together and had made a great life for ourselves. She had great presence and her talent was much admired, not least by me. I have been touched by the tributes that people have paid to her, and also the personal messages of support that I have received. I will never forget her."

Monday, March 17, 2014

Is Jimmy Choo For Sale?

Jimmy Choo owners Labelux could be looking to sell a share of the brand, which is valued at more than £1 billion. A source close to the label told The Sunday Times that it is considering an IPO as early as this year, and has held "preliminary meetings" with bankers to discuss it. Despite the rumours, however, other sources said that the IPO could be some time away.

"Labelux has a long-term vision and development plan for Jimmy Choo and has no intention of giving up control of the company," industry sources told  WWD. "If there is any listing at all, it will be a minority one. The company has been expanding over the past three years, and it's a very normal process to discuss the next steps to accelerate growth. The reality is that anything can happen in this climate: There is a financial bubble that favours IPOs now, but anything can happen to change that."

Jimmy Choo
Labelux, which also controls Bally and Belstaff, was said to have paid around 500 million for Jimmy Choo in 2011.Tamara Mellon - who founded Choo with the shoemaker of the same name in 1996 - sold the label and has since launched an eponymous lifestyle brand.Choo has also followed his own path since the sale,still creating shoes for private clients as well as teaching students his craft.

Brands including Versace, Marni and Balmain have been the subject of IPO rumours in recent months, while labels including Michael Kors and Moncler have become billion-dollar brands thanks to successful listings.

Prada Let´s Them Eat Cake

Prada has bought a pastry shop. The Italian label has acquired an 80 per cent stake in Angelo Marchesi Srl, the parent company of a 19th century Milanese eatery Pasticceria Marchesi, which is known across the city for its pastries, chocolate and panettone.

The buy is to be the first of several "future development projects" for Prada, both within Milan and internationally. The historic pastry shop, a favourite of Milan residents, is housed in an 18th century building on the elegant Corso Magenta.

Prada for Pie?
"Marchesi represents a symbol of Milanese excellence and I am happy we have stipulated this agreement with the family that founded the historic brand," said Prada SpA managing director Patrizio Bertelli. "Our goal is to collaborate in an effective manner in its development and in full respect of its tradition."

Inside King Karl’s Kingdom

Karl Lagerfeld opens his debut British store today, and we were the first to step inside. The Chanel helmer has been heavily involved in the creation of the flagship, housed on Regent Street near to J Crew and Tommy Hilfiger, which has taken six months to design.

Technology was a key focus for the designer - he wants to be able to interact with his customers, so shoppers can sign a digital guest book where he will tweet his favourite messages. Each of the changing rooms feature iPads where customers can upload pictures of themselves in their new Lagerfeld outfits directly onto Instagram.

Karl Lagerfeld
As you'd expect, the interior is strictly black and white with a giant Karl mural on the wall, masterminded by UK design studio I Love Dust. If Lagerfeld was to create his own kingdom it would look like this; all clean lines, sparkling surfaces, plush sofas with cushions bearing his face, a carpeted staircase with a gold bannister and more mirrors than you can possibly imagine. As well as his ready-to-wear and accessories collections, the store also sells his dedicated British-inspired range - featuring Karl white collars, fingerless black gloves, Karl dolls (including a version of him carrying his beloved cat Choupette), keyrings, baseball caps, wallets and iPhone cases. There is also a collection of books available, from coffee table tomes to more entertainment compliations of his most famous quotes.

Lily Allen Loses Chanel Wedding Dress

Lily Allen temporarily misplaced her  Chanel Couture wedding dress, valued at £200,000. The singer wore two gowns at her Gloucestershire wedding to Sam Cooper in 2011, one by French designer Delphine Manivet for the ceremony,and another bespoke creation by Karl Lagerfeld for the reception.

Upon being asked by 4Music about the most expensive item of clothing in her wardrobe, Allen replied: "There's two bits to this answer. One is that it's not in my wardrobe, it's gone missing. And two, it's my Chanel Couture wedding dress that's worth about £200,000. It's gone. I don't know where it is."

Lily Allen
However, the star tweeted an update this afternoon - explaining that the dress has since been found: "OK, EVERYONE RELAX, I FOUND IT !!!!!!!!! A couple of weeks ago now."

Allen shared a picture of herself in the Manivet dress through our monthly Today I´m Wearing feature. The white, empire-line Chanel dress features bell sleeves and intricate embroidered detailing. The musician - who is one of this year's Vogue Festival speakers - has a long-standing relationship with Chanel, having starred in the label's  2009 Cocoon bag campaign and having attended several of its shows.

Karl: Cara Is Fashion’s Charlie Chaplin

Karl Lagerfeld  has compared Cara Delevingne to one of the greatest comedians of all time - the legendary Charlie Chaplin.

"She's a character. She's the Charlie Chaplin of the fashion world," said Lagerfeld. "She is kind of genius, like a character out of a silent movie. I would see her better in a silent movie than a talkie because she over-accents the movement. Girls admire her like they used to Kate Moss. They all want to be as free as her."

Cara Delevingne
He also applauded a few of the other leading ladies in his life - Kate Moss ("She's the free girl of our times. And she was not living on Vichy water all her life"); Victoria Beckham ("She can look cold, but she is not, she's cheerful"); his beloved pet Choupette ("She has impeccable manners"); and the Queen.

"Nobody does the job better than she does," he said of the British monarch. "She is never ridiculous, She is flawless. For this job, in our day, she is perfect. She's not supposed to be a fashion icon who is changing fashion. The Duchess of Cambridge can do that. Kate is chic in a classic way, but sometimes, with her Philip Treacy hats, Camilla is wilder. I know people who know her. Apparently, she's full of wit and spirit."

Lagerfeld's beauty ritual of coating his hair with dry shampoo to make it look white is no secret, although the reason he does so is a little more surprising.

"My mother had beautiful white hair," he told  The Sunday Times. "Mine is a little pee-pee yellow, so that's why I put the white powder in."

Would You Stay At The Lagerfeld Hotel?

Karl Lagerfeld  has signed a deal to help design a 270-room hotel in Macau, southern China. The Chanel helmer said that the hotel would be "kind of 19th-century style, but I want it modern at the same time".

"[I will approach the project] like my own houses and apartments, but I have more houses than I need, and I don't want to do any more," Lagerfeld told WWD. "So I can - how could I say? - get rid of my frustration by doing hotels." 

Karl Lagerfeld
The 20-storey tower is set to open in 2017 and will be part of the future Lisboa Palace luxury development - which will also include a Versace-themed hotel designed by the brand. Lagerfeld's hotel will be every bit as grand as you might expect.

"You know, Gabrielle Chanel always said, 'I only make dresses I would wear.' And I make only rooms where I would like to sleep. It's as simple as that," he said. "When I do a thing like this, I think, 'Would you live there or not? Do you want to wake up there? Do you think the bathroom is comfortable?' It's very childish thinking, but you know it's like the song My Way."

Friday, March 7, 2014

Cool Tomboys, Meet Joe Richards

Joe Richards may not be a household name just yet, but his CV is an impressive sight to behold. He started his career interning at Dior and Lanvin and later worked as a design assistant at Celine, before launching his eponymous label in February last year at London Fashion Week and his easy androgyny has already attracted a firm following among the fashion elite.

"I knew early that I loved making things and working through a process," Richards told us. "I was that kid at nursery who rocked up in his own outfit. So I knew I wanted to do this before I knew what fashion was. In many ways, I'm still listening to that voice, 'Just do it and find the way.'"
Joe Richards Collection
Richards had no formal training, and was inspired to pursue a career in design after attending a Chanel couture as a guest of illustrator Marko Matysik. With his starting point always menswear shirting, he describes his work as "a moveable feast - androgynous elegance and upscale easy-to-wear" and made using couture fabrics. His latest collection is available exclusively at

"I love how women are buying my clothes because they connect to them," he said. "I'm always drawn to confident individual style. For the first season, I thought about Sade and Lauren Bacall, and the last collection was very much about how I imagined Lee Miller to be today - along with Lauren Hill. My latest work stems from thinking of Greta Garbo in personal exile - private and aloof."

The designer is a firm believer in giving new talent the chance to grow, and began working at Bath Spa University in October 2010 and was more recently approached by The Prince's Trust to mentor students from local Somerset schools as part of the charity's Design Quest program.

"I love the process; the community, the challenge and the sense of never standing still and always pushing forward. I think back to the teachers that I had and have and what a key role they played in my life as a designer and being, so I try to give the students what I realise now I needed, which is often to be a protagonist and a distant voice which is coming directly from working within the industry."

Dior Documentary To Debut

Raf Simon´s first ever Dior couture collection is the focus of a new documentary, premiering at the Tribeca Film Festival on April 17. Dior et Moi goes behind the scenes at the historic fashion house, as Dior's creative director designs his debut collection for the brand.

Raf Simons
Directed and written by Frederic Tcheng, the film looks at Simons's skilled group of collaborators, with a particular focus on the atelier's seamstresses. Tcheng is known for producing critically-acclaimed fashion documentaries, with former works including Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel and Valentino: The Last Emperor.
The countdown for  Karl Lagerfeld´s first British store is on, ahead of its opening on March 13, and to help get us in the mood the designer has created a capsule collection that will be available in the new Regent Street flagship, as well as boutiques across Asia and Europe.

The range includes ready-to-wear, such as jumpers bearing Lagerfeld's face and a Union Jack flag, and distressed jeans, all inspired by London's "rock-chic aesthetic", as the press release reads. Other pieces are derived from traditional English military apparel.

Karl Lagerfeld
It's the accessories that have most caught our eye though - think fingerless gloves akin to Lagerfeld's own pair, a Choupette keyring and a limited-edition Lagerfeld tokidoki doll - the latter of which would be a welcome addition to any Chanel fan's desk.

Agyness Deyn Strikes Again At Dr Martens

While the glamour of the Oscars  might have captured our attention over the past few days, floor-length glittering gowns aren't for everyone, and so we turn to Agyness Deyn, who has unveiled her fourth collection for Dr Martens today.

For spring/summer 2014, her inspiration comes from her new LA home teamed with the surf and punk scenes of the Seventies and Eighties, as well as Americana sportswear. Think surfer shorts, slouchy dresses with sporty mesh detailing, cropped, preppy shirts and strappy creepers.

Agyness Deyn
"It's great to have the freedom to play in so many style camps with the Docs girl," said Deyn. "I was obsessing over the euphoria of summer and found that Docs has roots all the way into the early Venice Beach hardcore scene, which is very different from the East Coast. The inspiration is extremely laid-back, low-key beach rat."

Studio 54 Finally Laid Bare

The  founder of Studio 54  is set to tell his story for the first time. Ian Schrager, who opened the famous NY club with the late Steve Rubell in 1977, is currently working on a book to be released by Rizzoli next autumn.

"If the hunter does not tell the story, the lion will," Schrager told the New York Post by way of explanation.
Studio 54
From Bianca Jagger, David Bowie and Michael Jackson to Andy Warhol, Salvadore Dali and Truman Capote - the coolest actors, artists, singers and authors of the decade gathered in the club, which was the place to be seen. Designers including Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford, who attended the club as a young New York University student, have spoken of its influence on them.

"This nice guy from my art history class came in and asked if I wanted to go to a party. Andy Warhol was at the party, and he took us to Studio 54 - wow," Ford said in 2007. "Even today, I still start shaking when I hear Donna Summer because it's the music of my coming of age. Every party I have, if I'm not careful, I end up putting that music on and whirling some girl around the dancefloor."

Suzy Menkes Joins The Vogue Team

Globally renowned fashion journalist Suzy Menkes has been appointed international Vogue editor, and will serve as critic and reporter on all international websites - including Britain, France, Italy, China, Russia, Japan, Germany and Spain.

"It'll be great to have Suzy as part of the team," British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman said this morning. "Her experience is invaluable and I have always admired her."

Suzy Menkes
Menkes has worked as a fashion critic for the International Herald Tribune(recently rebranded The International New York Times) for 25 years. Her new role will also see her take a lead role in organising an annual luxury goods industry conference, supported by Condé Nast International - details of which will be announced in the coming future.

"I am thrilled to become international Vogue editor at Condé Nast International, which has a real commitment to journalistic excellence, and to have the opportunity to write for a wider global audience through the Voguewebsites," said Menkes. "I am grateful to have spent 25 years at theInternational Herald Tribune - a newspaper where I had unstinting support in being able to express myself freely and honestly. I feel this is the perfect time to embrace a new challenge in the digital age."

"Suzy Menkes is a unique talent, with superb judgement about fashion and keen insight into the business behind it," said Jonathan Newhouse, Condé Nast International chairman and chief executive. "She is hugely influential and respected. Her contribution will bring even greater quality and authority to theVogue brand."

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Green Ponders The Moss Formula

Sir Philip Green - with his eye for potential, and ability to build brands - should know what makes the public fall, and stay, in love with almost anything: but can he define the enduring appeal of supermodel, and friend of his, Kate Moss?

"The bottom line is this: she manages herself well," Green said. "She's been smart, she understands the fashion business, she doesn't go talking everywhere. And she hasn't run off and put her name on everything."

Sir Philip Green & Kate Moss
Green was in north London with secretary of state for education Michael Gove yesterday, unveiling a scheme whereby 15 state schools will enjoy special treatment from Arcadia: including a pass on the mandatory degree-level qualification to apply for a job at the company's HQ, and the opportunity to apply for a two-week placement for their students.

"He's the only person I know who has both Tony Blair and Kate Moss on speed dial," Gove told the Evening Standard."And he is passionate about providing opportunities for young people."

SJP Opens Her First Shoe Shop

Sarah Jessica Parker is opening the doors of her first shoe shop, within New York department store Nordstrom. Fans of Sex and the Cityspent years watching Carrie Bradshaw skip from shoe shop to shoe shop, lusting after shoes from Manolo Blahnik and Jimmy Choo, to Prada and Dolce & Gabbana - and the actress was just as excited as her on-screen alter ego as she welcomed press inside.

"This vision felt like a mere dream five weeks ago," Parker smiled. "The best part is having Nordstrom be enthusiastic about this particular brand and collection."

Sarah Jessica Parker
And far from basking in the success of her debut line, which will be stocked by Nordstrom exclusively this first season, Parker is on to the next collection - for spring/summer 2015 - already.

"It only gets better," she told WWD of the forthcoming collection, while declining to reveal any details. "It's so freaking good."

Bruce Oldfield Hits New York

Bruce Oldfield is returning to New York next month to show his latest couture collection - the first time he's done so in 10 years. The couturier will be taking orders in a pop-up showroom in Manhattan from March 5th to 7th.

"Many of my existing New York clients have been telling me that the tide has turned there; people are not afraid to spend and feel more confident about themselves in general," Oldfield told us this morning. "As ever, American women tend to go for the simpler pieces rather than over-the-top extravagance - they like quality and high luxury, but it doesn't have to scream at you."
Bruce Oldfield
Oldfield is known for dressing a wide range of high-profile women, from Diana, Princess of Wales, to Kim Kardashian and Rihanna. His history with New York goes back a long way.

"My career really started in NYC 40 years ago and I have always been drawn to the almost sporty, pared-down aesthetic, even in eveningwear," he said. "The show will benefit the brand by repositioning myself again with regular returns for fittings and seasonal shows. It will be like having a pop-up couture showroom."

The Missing Oscar Dress Mystery

When  designer carefully selects new-season dresses and sends them on a plane to a stylist in LA ahead of the Oscars, the last thing they expect is for their one-off creations to be lost - but that's what happened to Donna Karan.The New York-based designer sent the frocks to Hollywood - along with her senior PR Aliza Licht, a Twitter favourite with the online handle DKNY PR Girl - but, at LAX, the dresses were nowhere to be seen.

"I am trying to remain calm, but the plane just landed in LA and our #Oscars gowns are NOT on it," Licht tweeted. "'We have confirmation that the dresses did go on the plane,' Ok great, so WHERE ARE THEY?"

The frantic search was played out on Twitter, before Licht jubilantly tweeted: "Breaking News! #DonnaKaranAtelier #Oscars dresses found in cargo area. My mistake, I should have shipped the person in them."

Licht followed the post with a confirmation from the stylist that she had received them - to which she added "phew" - although she didn't reveal the stylist's name or who she would be dressing. Donna Karan fans expected to attend the Oscars include Naomie Harris, Camila Alves, Penélope Cruz and Katie Holmes.

Vogue Editor Beatrix Miller Remembered

Beatrix Miller, editor of British Vogue from 1964 to 1986, died this weekend aged 90. Known for her exacting standards, and passion for dynamic and exciting journalism, Bea - as she was often known, although more junior members of the staff always called her Miss Miller - steered the magazine through a period of great change in the country; from the swinging Sixties to the innovative Eighties.

Beatrix Miller
Her own love of innovation was reflected in her colourful and constantly evolving covers - from a close-up of white teeth biting green jelly, to Jerry Hall in a football helmet - and, although feared for her low tolerance for boredom, friends and colleagues remember her ability to advise and guide.

"I often look back at her Vogues for inspiration and, of course, because, like myself, her career was rooted in journalism not fashion and I find the most wonderful articles alongside the fashion images, so many of which are now so famous," Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman told us today. "She saw Vogue as a chronicler of a particular world and she did a wonderful job."

Scott’s Fashion Takeaway

Jeremy Scott might have only just made his creative director debut at Moschino last night in Milan but you can already get your hands on his witty designs.

As part of a collection called "Fast Fashion - Next Day After The Runway", the designer has released a capsule collection of 10 items straight from the catwalk exclusively with London store Browns. The idea was inspired by the catchphrases "fast food" and "fast fashion".

Among the colourful line-up of pieces are a bright red quilted nappa bag, belt, sweatshirts, T-shirt, a woollen maxi sweater as well as a T-shirt declaring "I Do Speak Moschino" and a "French Fry Case" that looks as though it is in fact a takeaway portion of the fast food. Each piece is typically irreverent Jeremy Scott-style fun.

Cavalli: Stop Copying Me, Kors

Roberto Cavalli has launched another attack on fellow designer Michael Kors,accusing the American of copying his designs - an allegation that he first levelled in December 2013.

"Mr Michael Kors, he copies everything!" Cavalli told Miami's Haute Living magazine. "It's really a scandal and nobody has the courage to say anything. It's really not fair."

Kors, known for his amiable manner and many fashion friendships, has remained silent on Cavalli's comments - and the Italian hasn't expanded on which pieces he believes have been plagiarised.

The American designer recently became a billionaire, following his company's Initial Public Offering, while rumours of a Cavalli IPO have never come to fruition - with the label instead in talks to sell a minority share.