Saturday, December 31, 2016

Fashion's New Year Honours List 2017

Victoria Beckham Anya Hindmarch and Anna Wintour are among those to be recognised in the Queen’s New Year Honours list.

Beckham receives an OBE for services to the fashion industry, 13 years after her husband, David Beckham, was awarded his title. Anya Hindmarch is appointed CBE, following on from her MBE in 2009.

Also named OBE for services to fashion this year are Imran Amed, founder and editor-in-chief of The Business of Fashion; i-D founder, Terry Jones; Angela Walters, Programme Director for Fashion at Central Saint Martins; and Simon Ward, chief operating officer of the British Fashion Council.

American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour has been awarded a Damehood, so too have Olympians Jessica Ennis-Hill and rower Katherine Grainger. Andy Murray and Mo Farah are among those receiving Knighthoods.

In entertainment, actresses Naomie Harris and Helen McCrory have both been named OBE. Wolf Hall actor Mark Rylance - who won an Oscar this year for his role in Tom Hanks-led film Bridge of Spies - has been awarded a Knighthood, as has Kinks frontman Ray Davies for their services to hospitality, Soho House founder Nick Jones and restauranteur Mark Hix have also been appointed MBE.

Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Franca Sozzani Has Died

Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia since 1988, has died after a year-long illness. Sozzani was known for her pioneering themed issues of Vogue which pushed boundaries and asked questions about the perception of beauty in fashion.

A literature and philosophy graduate, Sozzani began her career at Vogue Bambini where she began building a network of creatives with whom she would work for more than 30 years. Her relationship with photographer Steven Meisel was among her closest collaborations, and she broke conventions in the industry by enlisting him to shoot every cover of Vogue Italia during her tenure. Despite this she also championed the work of other photographers – including Bruce Weber and Peter Lindbergh – and was credited, at least in part, for turning a group of in-demand models in to what we now consider to be the concept of “the supermodels”. A keen philanthropist, Sozzani worked as a United Nations goodwill ambassador, and has been recognised for her fundraising with many awards over the years.

“Franca was one of the greatest editors who ever made a magazine,” Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and chief executive of Condé Nast, said today. “She was by far the most talented, influential and important person within the Condé Nast International organisation. She made Italian Vogue a powerful and influential voice in the worlds of fashion and photography by publishing ground-breaking photography and journalism. In doing so she expanded Vogue beyond what had been the traditional model of a fashion magazine and often courted controversy by doing so. The greatest fashion photographers looked to Franca as the creative leader who would give them the freedom and the scope to produce their best work and they did so, month after month.”

The British fashion industry honoured her earlier this month when she received the Swarovski Award for Positive Change at the British Fashion Awards, which was presented by her long-time friend Tom Ford.

“Franca was one of those people who really was legendary," British Vogue editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman said. "Powerful, beautiful, intelligent and creatively adventurous, she was the perfect archetype of a Vogue editor and will be very much missed by those who have worked with her and admired her for many years.”

“On a personal level I had the great privilege to work with Franca since 1989, and it was a collaboration which animated my professional life,” Newhouse added. “I loved and admired her, and I will miss her terribly. The fashion world in mourning.”

Sozzani is survived by her son, Francesco Carrozzini, a photographer and director, who was with her when she died.

Kate's Christmas Day Plans

She may be a supermodel of superlative standard, but Kate Moss's Christmas looks a lot like everyone else's.

"I spend it in the country with my family, the whole family gathering. Anyone’s welcome, any randoms as well. I like a random thrown in for good measure. It’s just yeah, the full-on Christmas works," she told BBC Radio 6 Music’s Shaun Keaveny for his eponymous show, which will air tomorrow morning.

"Of course there’s an Aga," she continued. "Nothing ever fits in there, it’s all a big drama. Running backwards and forwards between houses with who’s got a bigger oven than me and we can just, potatoes are over there and turkey’s over there and yeah, fun."

While the festive period may be familiar and traditional to all, in warmer months, however, the Vogue cover girl lets a little more of the mischievous nature come to the fore, and it involves her neighbour - and long-time pin-up - George Michael. Moss revealed that when temperatures soar in the capital, the pair, and Moss's daughter Lila, hang out as they are neighbours.

"We have done in the past, when it’s hot," she said. "He’s got a pool, so when it’s hot I’m like ‘Oh can Lila come and jump in your pool?' And he’s like, 'Yeah, come over.' And we can actually climb from garden to garden over the walls with a ladder, we’ve done that a couple of times."

Moss, clearly in a revelatory mood, also let slip a few more interesting titbits in the interview - most notably, her favourite karaoke song is Endless Love by Diana Ross and Lionel Ritchie; Soul II Soul provided her earliest music influence; and that she will be chief gravy maker come Christmas Day.

Carolina Herrera Sues Oscar de la Renta

Two of New York's fashion powerhouses are at loggerheads this week, over the talents of one employee. Monse designer Laura Kim left Carolina Herrera to take the creative helm at Oscar de la Renta, which a new lawsuit states breached a six-month non-compete clause in her contract. But all is not as straightforward as it seems.

Kim was a vice president at Herrera when she was offered the role of creative director at the label by CEO Francois Kress, Page Six reports. Kim turned down the role, reportedly on the grounds that Herrera herself was not aware that she had been offered the position, meaning that Kim would not have complete creative control. Claims made by Kim's lawyer that the founding designer was being "transitioned out" of her role at Herrera by Cress have not yet been addressed by the company.

Kim was then offered the De la Renta top job - or rather half of it, as co-creative director alongside her Monse co-founder Fernando Garcia - in September, following the sudden departure of the label's English-born helmer Peter Copping in July. The role was a return to the label for Kim, who previously worked at the brand for 12 years, before leaving in January for Herrera.

Ironically, considering the antagonistic nature of such a personal case, the court papers contained much praise for Kim, whom the suit called "a unique employee". It asserted that she is "very adept at creating designs that are what commercial clients are interested in stocking in their stores" and revealed that her 2016 resort collection for Carolina Herrera was the company’s “most commercially successful ever in its 35-year history" - albeit as evidence of why her alleged breach of contract is such a serious matter.

Although Kim's lawyers argue that the non-compete clause is unenforceable, reasoning that she was pushed out of the company, it still may have serious ramifications. If the lawsuit is successful, Kim will be barred from beginning her role at De la Renta until April 2017, leaving the company a key designer down as it prepares to show its autumn/winter 2017 offering in February - which was set to be the design duo's debut.

Wednesday, December 21, 2016

Ashley: Why 2017 Is The Year Of Beauty Beyond Size

I’ll never forget the moments before my very first photoshoot as a professional model. I was 13 years old, sitting in the car with my mom, praying and thanking God that I had been given this opportunity. I thought to myself, “If this is the only time I book a job, I’ll be grateful.”

And just like that first job, I’ll never forget the many career “firsts” that have followed: my first time getting a manicure on set (someone is coming to me to do my nails?!), my first time walking down a runway, my first time trying on the lingerie that I designed, and now, my very first Vogue cover - something I never imagined was even possible when I started working 16 years ago.

It’s incredible how being myself - with all of my curves and imperfections - is seen as ground-breaking. In a world fuelled by filters and the pursuit of perfection, it seems like keeping it real has become avant-garde.

The most rewarding part about the honour of being British Vogue's January cover girl is knowing how many lives we are changing. I'm hearing from thousands of women that they don’t feel invisible anymore, that they now feel that they have gotten their seat at the table. I feel even more inclined to continue my mission of beauty beyond size with the support of Vogue.

That's why this barrier-breaking cover means so much to me. Not just because I get to see myself gracing this British Vogue cover, but for all the women who have heard "no" all of their life. This is a triumph for us all, and a beautiful demonstration of how we used our voices to create change, because loving ourselves at every size and shape is not a crime, it's a right.

Sadly, we’ve all witnessed at least one not-so-body-positive exchange online or in person. We live in a world where others feel that it is okay to police our bodies. Too fat, too thin, too muscular - not close enough to "perfect". As women, we immerse ourselves in “self-improvements,” which becomes an endless pursuit to renovate our bodies. We are told that thick hair is beautiful, yet thick thighs won’t get you a boyfriend. That full lips are sexy, yet full arms should be covered and hidden away. But in reality, a lot of us actually like ourselves as we are!

At an early age, my mom showed me by example that confidence is sexy - even if it pops over your bra strap a bit. “Confidence is your most alluring possession,” she would tell me. “It is way more powerful than your appearance.”

It's only right that we close out the year and start off 2017 with a cover that makes a deep impact. This past year has been a whirlwind of wins - I’ve continued to make strides in championing beautiful curvy women and I now have my own Barbie that is measured to my own standard of perfection. I've been confident enough to speak up and show out for the curvy girls of the world, and I encourage more women to do so as well - to own your bodies unapologetically. We’ve set the tone for 2017. We have more work to do, but we’ve declared that thick or thin, beauty beyond size is our future.

Cindy: Why 50 Is The New 30

While some stars are in the constant pursuit of youth, Cindy Crawford is a supermodel who is happy to look her age.

"No matter what I do, I'm not going to look 20, or 30. I just want to look great for 50,” she told New Beauty magazine, reports US Weekly. “I exercise, eat healthy and take really good care of my skin. There's pressure on women to do the undoable, which is not age. But it's about looking great for however old you are, regardless of what that number is."

Crawford, who will turn 51 on February 20, regularly shares images of her life with husband Randy Gerber and their children Kaia and Presley, on Instagram - but pointed out that the kind of comments she sometimes receives put an unrealistic expectation on the star.

“I don't need everyone on Instagram pointing out that I don't look the same way I did when I was 20. I know that," she said, adding that being in the public eye "can be hard and that's where you kind of have to work on yourself".

Monday, December 19, 2016

Topshop Reveals Expansion

Topshop has confirmed that it is planning on opening up to 80 Topshop and Topman stores in mainland China, starting in spring 2017 in either Beijing or Shanghai.

“For the first time, both brands will deliver fashion to the shop floor and beyond by opening full-scale stores in China - host to the world’s fastest-growing retail economy,” Topshop boss Philip Green told WWD, revealing that the British high-street favourite will partner with - a members-only website that gives registered users access to Western brands, and who it has been working with since 2014 to help raise the brand's profile in the Far East - to roll out the new venture.

“The future of retail lies within offering an omnichannel shopping experience," continued Green. "Bringing together Topshop and Topman’s style authority and retail experience with Shangpin’s localised market and tech expertise promises a winning partnership."

Shangpin's founder and CEO, David Zhao, shared Green's optimism for the plan. "This is the ultimate online/off-line liaison, using our online expertise to drive traffic and Topshop’s…ability to make the shopping experience fun and stimulating,” he said today.

Candice: In Support Of Breastfeeding

Candice Swanepoel has called out the hypocrital reaction of those who have a problem with women breastfeeding in public but don't blink an eye at nude editorials and photoshoots. The model posted her opinion on her Instagram page, where she has been sharing images of her son, Anacã, who was born in October.

"Many women today are shamed for breastfeeding in public, or even kicked out of public places for feeding their children. I have been made to feel the need to cover up and somewhat shy to feed my baby in public places but strangely feel nothing for the topless editorials I've done in the name of art?" the model wrote, alongside a photograph of her son breastfeeding.

Many women today are shamed for breastfeeding in public, or even kicked out of public places for feeding their children. I have been made to feel the need to cover up and somewhat shy to feed my baby in public places but strangely feel nothing for the topless editorials I've done in the name of art..? The world has been desensitized to the sexualization of the breast and to violence on tv...why should it be different when it comes to breastfeeding? -Breastfeeding is not sexual it's natural- Those who feel it is wrong to feed your child in public need to get educated on the benefits breastfeeding has on mother and child and intern on society as a whole. 💪🏼💙 👫👭 #mothernature

Victoria's Secret Angel Swanepoel - who took a break from the annual lingerie extravaganza this year, that took place a month after the birth of her son - isn't the first star to use their fame to promote positivity around breastfeeding. Fellow Vogue models Miranda Kerr, Gisele Bündchen and Natalia Vodianova have all shared images of them breastfeeding their newborns on their social-media accounts.

Thursday, December 15, 2016

Anything Gigi Can Do, Bella Can Too

Bella Hadid is following in her big sister Gigi's footsteps once more, by turning her hand to design for Chrome Hearts. The model, who joined her sibling on the Victoria's Secret catwalk last month, revealed on Instagram yesterday that a collaboration with the LA-based jewellery, clothing and accessories brand is forthcoming.

Hadid gave a hint as to what we can expect from the range in the white T-shirt and jeans that she wore in the post, the former of which was emblazoned with the Chrome Hearts script logo and a letter B. Celebrity fans of Chrome Hearts's rock and roll style include Lady Gaga, Rihanna and even Karl Lagerfeld - so Bella's collection is sure to be in high demand with her famous friends.

¨So damn excited ! You have no idea what's coming! My new collection with @chromeheartsofficial designed by me, shot by my angel mother @laurielynnstark ❤️ I CANT wait for you all to see what we've made! Follow @chromeheartsxbella for more 😻🏁❤️ #chromeheartsxbella coming soon soon soon.¨

As one of the most in-demand models of the year, and a face of Dior make-up, Hadid must have been inundated with collaboration offers, but this one would likely have been a no-brainer. Hadid has been friends for years with musician Jesse Jo Stark, the daughter of Chrome Hearts founders Richard and Laurie Lynn.

While Gigi's collection for Tommy Hilfiger was an offering of preppy Americana, as a nod to Gigi's own style, Bella's range for Chrome Hearts promises - like the model - to be a little darker. More will be revealed in the coming weeks ahead of the collection's launch, thought to be planned for next year.

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

Roberto Cavalli Reaches Agreement

Roberto Cavalli has reached an agreement regarding its planned redundancies, reports WWD, under the leadership of new CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris.

News of the layoffs was first met with alarm in October by employees of the Italian fashion house when Ferraris revealed the plan was to reduce the workforce by 30 per cent. Following yesterday's conference at the Ministry of Labour and Social Policy in Florence, a total of 50 contracts will be terminated, compared with the 77 that were expected - 15 of which are voluntary. Ferraris revealed that he was pleased with the outcome.

“I am in particular satisfied with the sense of responsibility that the different parts have demonstrated and which makes us hope for the future," he said. "As I declared at the moment of the reorganisation, I am convinced that Cavalli has in itself what is necessary to restart. With the contribution of shareholders, employees and management, as well as of all external stakeholders, we hope to quickly reach our objectives."

As a part of the dramatic restructure, which also saw the departure of creative director Peter Dundas, Ferraris revealed that he was planning to close company's corporate and design offices in Milan, move all functions to its headquarters in Florence, and shut or relocate stores in underperforming areas. Bernardo Marasco, a representative of the workers’ union Filctem Cgil Florence which helped to organise a strike by staff following the news, said at the time, "There is a battle to do and we will do it to defend jobs and the brand on the territory. Mobilisation is the response to the company’s plans." Yesterday he expressed satisfaction at the reduction, although urged the company to look to use factories in the same Florence area so to be able to re-employ members of staff where possible.

“We have obtained a significant reduction of redundancies and a voluntary exit incentive higher than the mobility — from a minimum of 13 to a maximum of 17 months based on seniority and family obligations," said Marasco. "We will fight so that the sacrifices of the workers will be followed by the relaunch of the company.”

Karlie´s Work - Life Balance

She may be one of the most successful catwalk models of our time - not to mention digital programming whizz, NYU student, and regular Vogue cover girl - but Karlie Kloss knows the importance of keeping a work-life balance.

"It's more important than ever to keep a healthy balance and focus in that way. Everything is so social-media driven now. While technology has enabled so many positive things, taking a step back and being present is so important in all walks of life - not just modelling" she told us. "I feel that as a citizen balance is important."

With her striking supermodel looks and engaging attitude, it's no surprise that Kloss is in constant demand - her recent appointment as Swarovski brand ambassador and star of its Christmas campaign has ensured that you won't have failed to spot her somewhere near you this Christmas - wherever you reside: "I feel like I live in airports but the plus side is that it's so great to see the campaign in countries all over the world!" she laughed. "Plus it's a family brand that has such a legacy, which I love."

For Kloss's Christmas, however, she will be back in America, surrounded by her family. "I'll probably not leave the house, or get out of my PJs, for days," she sighed. "I love to cook, and - although I'm a little healthier than the rest of the Kloss family - I love to bake and experiment in the kitchen. It's really my favourite time of year."

The Tom Ford Fragrance Conundrum

Tom Ford's fragrances are unexpectedly at the centre of a stir concerning award-season consideration, it was revealed last night.

Members of the Hollywood Foreign Press Association (HFPA), which decides on the prestigious Golden Globe nominations (announced yesterday), were sent two bottles of Tom Ford's fragrances - one for men, one for women - by Focus Pictures, the production company responsible for Ford's latest cinematic outing Nocturnal Animals, starring Amy Adams.

While it is well known that film companies often attempt to draw the attention of members to their films by sending related material in the form of gifts, the limit to the market value of gifts that members of the HFPA are permitted to receive is capped at $95. Since the combined value of both bottles of perfume amounts to much more than this, members were requested by HFPA president Lorenzo Soria to return one bottle to the HFPA, which would then return it to Focus Pictures, according to The Hollywood Reporter.Golden Globe Nominations 2017.


"The policy is a little hard to police because you have both retail and discount prices, but we keep an eye on it as much as possible and that was the only clear violation we had this season," explained Soria. "I can also guarantee that nobody knows who sent what. It's a wasted effort and doesn't sway our opinions."

The situation has shone the spotlight on the gift-giving that occurs around awards season and the strict rules that have been established as a result. For example, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, which organises the Oscars, forbids companies from sending anything of value to its members beyond film screeners, which are also not allowed to include any testimonials of positive critic quotes.

Focus Pictures hasn't been the only production company to court members this year. La La Land producers Lionsgate sent out copies of the Taschen coffee-table book, Los Angeles: Portrait of a City; Fox Searchlight distributed posters for Jackie inspired by Andy Warhol’s portraits of the late Jacqueline Kennedy; Roadside/Amazon sent a poster of Manchester by the Sea signed by writer-director Kenneth Lonergan; while Sing producers, Universal, sent members of the Broadcast Film Critics Association - who decide on the Critics’ Choice Awards - an inflatable toy piano.

Philipp Plein's Message To Dolce & Gabbana

Philipp Plein has taken to Instagram to highlight a letter he says he has received from Dolce & Gabbana, accusing his brand of contacting members of staff at its Milan flagship in an attempt "to lure them away and work for Plein", reports WWD.

"Just received a love letter from Dolce and Gabbana's lawyer accusing me and my people that we would steal their employees," wrote Plein on his social-media account. "1. This is a free country and everybody can choose by themselves who they want to work for!! 2. If people are happy at their job they don't think about leaving !!! 3. I really love and respect the brand Dolce & Gabbana, it was an inspiration for me and many others to start my business and to work in fashion !!!! @stefanogabbana @dolcegabbana It is sad to say but everybody loves you until you become competition!!!!"

Just received a love letter from Dolce and Gabbana's lawyer accusing me and my people that we would steal their employees....... 1. This is a free country and everybody can choose by themselves who they want to work for !! 2. If people are happy at their job they don't think about leaving !!! 3. I really love and respect the brand dolce and gabbana , it was an inspiration for me and many others to start my business and to work in fashion !!!! @stefanogabbana @dolcegabbana It's is sad to say but everybody loves you until you become competition !!!! Since more than 15 years I work 24/7 on realizing my dream and building my company .... I respect everybody and I never received any support from this industry until today !!! I want to take this moment to apologize to absolutely "NOBODY" !!!!

Plein, who is currently building up to the opening of his London flagship this week, concluded his post: "Since more than 15 years I work 24/7 on realising my dream and building my company. I respect everybody and I never received any support from this industry until today!!! I want to take this moment to apologise to absolutely 'NOBODY'!!!!"

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have not responded on their official social-media accounts as yet, and the brand did not wish to comment on the story when we contacted them this morning.

Margot Bowman For River Island

River Island has enlisted the talents of artist Margot Bowman for its latest Design Forum collaboration.

The illustrator - who has worked with many high-end fashion houses, bringing her energetic brushstrokes and innovative vision through both product and print - has created a eight-piece edit for the high-street brand - River Island Launches Activewear.

Bowman, a Central Saint Martins graduate, follows in the footsteps of Zoe Jordan, Sibling, Eudon Choi and most recently Dominic Jones by taking part in the Design Forum which will launch at London Fashion Week’s Fashion Film event in February 2017. Her work encompasses references that are both far flung and close to home, incorporating music, art, fashion, moving image - something which both the artist and the brand are excited to bring to life through the medium of film.

The collection will be available exclusively at from February 19, 2017 with prices ranging from £25 to £65.

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Mulberry's Latest Report Card

When we met Mulberry's creative director Johnny Coca ahead of his second ready-to-wear show for the house in September, he was tentative to talk too soon when it came to the financial success of his tenure, despite clocking up industry-wide praise for his aesthetic direction. Now, however, first half results are in, and he will be pleased to hear that revenues climbed 9.9 per cent to £74.5 million following his debut.

The company is marking up a loss in the six months leading up to September "to investment costs and currency headwinds after the pound lost ground against the euro and dollar in the wake of the Brexit referendum", reports WWD, but Thierry Andretta, the brand's CEO, said that trading in the 10 weeks ending December 3, once again showed positive signs of growth.

Coca's first financial report card bodes well for the former Céline designer, who was brought on board in 2015 after a challenging period for the brand that saw it without a creative director since 2013. Andretta was brought on board shortly after Coca, replacing Bruno Guillon (who departed suddenly in March 2014), in a strategic move that aimed to create more cohesion between the business and creative sides of the brand.

“To have success it’s not only one person, it’s done by a team. I need to be close to the people that work for me and I need to know that they are okay. If there is a problem, I say to Thierry, ‘Can we solve it? Because it’s not cool, and I don’t like it when people are sad," Coca explained to us in September. "Thierry is someone I can talk to. Each week we have a dinner so we can expose every issue and find a solution. It’s like when you are family, or married, or whatever, it’s nice to have a dinner somewhere nice and a moment to reposition. We are very close and it’s really good to be able to make quick discussions. Not to be scary, just to be honest and talk."

Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Inside The Fashion Awards 2016: What You Didn't See

That this year’s Fashion Awards (they’ve dropped the British) was of a different class became abundantly clear upon our arrival at the Royal Albert Hall. An oceanic red carpet and a glittering sun, studded with 8,000 Swarovski crystals and so enormous it would make a Pagan blush, greeted attendees as light streamed out from the Italianate columns of London’s most magnificent concert hall. Revamp? This was more a total overhaul of the British Fashion Council’s annual awards ceremony, glammed up to the nines and heaving with the A-list.

Once inside the auditorium, we were greeted by a furniture village of perfectly dusty pink velvet sofas positioned around tables littered with tulips, crimson roses, sparkling Swarovski sculptures and candles giving off an orange glow. Touché, Dame Natalie Massenet, we thought: until we bumped into Derek Blasberg, resplendent in…a dusty pink velvet smoking jacket. “I’m gonna be swallowed by the sofa,” he bemoaned. “Shame Natalie has such good taste.” Despite having just flown in from Miami’s Art Basel – “where the art was really not the main event” – to spend one night in London before heading to Paris for Chanel, everyone’s favourite gold-skinned Instagram king looked immaculate. Is there any down time in the diary? “Christmas with my parents,” he smiled.

Onwards, in search of a martini, and who should prove an able guide but Marilyn Manson? “The alcohol’s over there,” the self-styled Mephistopheles of Los Angeles murmured, poking our arm and gesturing towards the impressive selection of tipples in the sunken bar of a nearby dining table. “Unfortunately I don’t have the shrapnel to help you open it.” No matter; ten minutes later we had a perfectly mixed Vesper and were clinking glasses with Anya Hindmarch, claiming to be still recovering from her annual Christmas party the night before, but looking remarkably perky all the same.

A brief hello with Molly Goddard, nervily awaiting the announcement of the British Emerging Designer Talent award (update: she won!) and an admiring glance at Jared Leto’s wicked Gucci cloak (his bromance with the house’s Alessandro Michele shows no signs of cooling) and it was time to sit down. As we tucked into venison carpaccio and white pizza, talk centred on whether Lady Gaga would sing (she didn’t) and if Demna Gvasalia would show up (he did).

The latter was a relief; as an agitator, some speculated Gvasalia would eschew the 4,000-strong awards ceremony, but thankfully he even made a brief speech when he appeared on stage, cap pulled down low to obscure his face, to accept the award for International Urban Luxury Brand from his good friend – and now ours – Marilyn Manson. And as he claimed his second award, for International Ready-To-Wear Designer for his work at Balenciaga, the potency of his work was in evidence thanks to Stella Tennant. The model presented him with his award in Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2017 Spandex legging-boots. Tennant is 45. She looked banging. That’s fashion.

What Tom Won´t Let His Son Wear

Whether he's designing clothes or making movies, Tom Ford is known as an arbiter of style - so it's no surprise that his four-year-old son, Jack, will have inherited his good taste. No neon character T-shirts for the young Master Buckley-Ford, his palette of choice is decidedly more grown-up than that.

“Camel, camel, camel, camel,” Ford complained in an interview with GQabout his son's favoured hue, “all he wanted was camel.” He has now moved on to black, despite being told by his father: "Black doesn’t really look good on little children. You need to wear some colour.” To which the toddler concedes, “Okay, grey.”

But - like all small children - Jack has one item that he loves despite his parent's disapproval: a pair of questionable light-up shoes that Ford consents to being worn only when appropriate.

“What does Dada say about the dinosaur shoes?” Ford revealed he asks his son. “They’re tacky.” “And when are we allowed to wear them?” “On weekends,” the child grudgingly responded, a pair of Velcro Stan Smiths revealed as the toddler-friendly compromise.

The Fashion Awards 2016: The Winners

British Vogue took home a bespoke award at tonight's big Fashion Awards extravaganza entitled Special Recognition: Celebrating 100 years of British Vogue. The Marc Newson-designed trophy, which was presented to editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman by long-time collaborator Mario Testino, was created especially for the publication to commemorate its centenary year.

Following 12 months of celebrations - including the Vogue 100 Festival, the Vogue 100 Gala, the National Portrait Gallery exhibition, Vogue 100: A Century of Style, and two commemorative tomes - Vogue: Voice of a Century, and Shulman's Diary of My 100th Year - the award brings 2016 to a fitting end.

This evening also saw a host of other big-name winners take home their well-deserved prizes. From the Womenswear Designer of the Year, to International Model of the Year, see the worthy winners below.

British Emerging Talent

Molly Goddard - WINNER (presented by Alexa Chung and Jordan Barrett)
Alessandra Rich
Charles Jeffrey
Faustine Steinmetz

Swarovski Award For Positive Change

Franca Sozzani (presented by Tom Ford)

British Menswear Designer

Craig Green for Craig Green - WINNER (presented by Lady Gaga)
Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Tom Ford for Tom Ford
Vivienne Westwood for Vivienne Westwood

British Womenswear Designer

Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha - WINNER (presented by Kate Beckinsale)
Christopher Kane for Christopher Kane
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson
Roksanda Ilincic for Roksanda
Sarah Burton OBE for Alexander McQueen

Isabella Blow Award For Fashion Creator

Bruce Weber (presented by David Bailey and James Jagger)

Special Recognition Award

British Vogue (presented by Mario Testino)

British Brand

Alexander McQueen - WINNER (presented by Naomi Campbell)
Christopher Kane
Stella McCartney

International Business Leader

Marco Bizzarri for Gucci - WINNER (presented by Karlie Kloss and Francois-Henri Pinault)
Adrian Joffe for Comme des Garçons & Dover Street Market
Christopher Bailey for Burberry
Guram Gvasalia for Vetements
Stefano Sassi for Valentino

International Urban Luxury Brand

Vetements - WINNER (presented by Marilyn Manson)
Gosha Rubchinskiy

New Fashion Icons Award

Jaden and Willow Smith (presented by Edward Enninful)

International Model

Gigi Hadid - WINNER (presented by Donatella Versace)
Adwoa Aboah
Bella Hadid
Kendall Jenner
Lineisy Montero

International Accessories Designer

Alessandro Michele for Gucci - WINNER (presented by Jared Leto)
Anya Hindmarch for Anya Hindmarch
Johnny Coca for Mulberry
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Stuart Vevers for Coach

International Ready-To-Wear Designer

Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga - WINNER (presented by Stella Tennant and Carine Roitfeld)
Alessandro Michele for Gucci
Donatella Versace for Versace
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe
Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy

Outstanding Achievement

Ralph Lauren (presented by David Beckham)

Donatella On Suits Versus Dresses

Donatella Versace may have contributed to the allure of the gown more effectively than almost any other designer, but it seems that Versace herself is feeling the draw of the trouser suit this season just as keenly as the rest of us. The designer was in London for the launch of her new book, Versace, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, where she also revealed that there has been a shift in her approach to the fashion calendar as a whole.

“A woman is much more powerful in a suit than in a gown these days,” she said, WWD reports. “I still want to do couture but not necessarily put it on the website or on the catwalk. I think it will become more exclusive, I will show it to a small group of people. I feel a lot more comfortable doing ready-to-wear.”

Versace also spoke about friend and collaborator Lady Gaga – currently ubiquitous thanks to a new album and with appearances at the Victoria’s Secret show, forthcoming Superbowl, and the new Bradley Cooper movie A Star Is Born. The singer is set to play Versace in the next American Crime Story, but it’s not the first time she’s tried to emulate the designer.

“Lady Gaga was obsessed with my look, I’m not sure why,” Versace told interviewer Tim Blanks at the event. “But it’s great that she can go from the eccentric look with the meat dress to an elegant, glamorous woman.”

Did Burberry Reject Coach's Advances?

Burberry rejected the takeover advances of American company Coach, rebuffing "multiple approaches", The Financial Times reports today. The accessories giant was rumoured to have its eye on the British label last month, but neither brand has commented on the stories.

This latest rumour, attributed to "people briefed on the matter", asserts that there are no longer "any active talks" between the two companies, and that Burberry successfully "saw off the interest" from Coach - currently creatively helmed by a Brit, Stuart Vevers, previously of Mulberry and Loewe.

Burberry is emerging from a challenging 12 months as long-time chief creative officer Christopher Bailey prepares to step down from his role as chief executive officer - a position that he assumed alongside his design role in May 2014. Many critics, including the company's shareholders, felt that Bailey needed support with the business operations, to allow him to concentrate wholly on the creative direction of the brand, which led to the appointment of new CEO Marco Gobbetti, who will assume his role in 2017.

Bella Clears The Air

While Bella Hadid's encounter with her ex boyfriend The Weeknd - real name Abel Tesfaye - on the Victoria's Secret catwalk on Wednesday nightfuelled endless social-media analysis (the general consensus being that one would want to look as sensational as Hadid did when bumping into a former flame for the first time in a while), the model has cleared up any speculation that there are frosty relations between the two.

"Thank you @theweeknd for being the best and most incredible performer on the planet. You KILLED it, as always," she captioned an image she posted on her Instagram account, also taking the opportunity to assert that despite her serious expression, she was brimming with excitement. "I was smiling SO HUGE on the inside I promise!!!! The most fun and nerve racking experience of my life but I wish I could do it over and over and over again!!!!!"

The model, who appeared with her sister Gigi for the first time in the show, also took to her Instagram account to reveal how emotional she felt being a part of the lingerie extravaganza for the first time.

"I cried when I saw my sister put her wings on for the first time. And I cried again when @hoskelsa opened the show. And I cried again when @_dilone walked. And again when @ed_razek spoke," she wrote, referring to fellow model Dilone and Victoria's Secret CEO Ed Razek. "And then cried five more times after that just because emotions."

Osborne And Chow Out At DKNY

DKNY creative directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow will leave the label at the end of the year and return their joint focus to their own brand, Public School. The news comes shortly after the sale of DKNY and its parent company Donna Karan International (DKI) from Kering to G-III Apparel Group for $650 million in July.

"Given the company sale and subsequent change in strategies, we have decided to step down and focus on our own business Public School," said the pair - who have been with DKNY since April 2015 - in a statement, reports WWD. "It’s been an unbelievable experience to work side by side with the wonderful people at DKNY, especially our amazing design team and atelier. We wish the company success in the future."

In addition to Osborne and Chow, CEO Caroline Brown will also leave her role as 2016 comes to a close.

“As Donna Karan International transitions to new ownership and therefore new directions, I have decided it is the right time to step down and explore new opportunities,” said Brown, who would have marked two years in her role in January. “This decision accompanies much appreciation and admiration for all of the talented teams here, our founder Donna Karan and our creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne. I know the company rests in good hands under the new leadership of G-III for the next stage of its development."

Donna Karan, who remained on as a close advisor the brand after she departed officially in 2015, said yesterday: “The people of Donna Karan have my heart. Together, as a family, we created and built two brands — Donna Karan and DKNY — that I will always be thankful and proud bear my name. I want to send everyone at the company my love and thanks for their enormous energy, passion, creativity and dedication, and good wishes as this new chapter begins."

While the search for a new CEO and creative directors commences, the company will be managed by Morris Goldfarb, chairman and CEO of G-III Apparel Group, who emphasised the importance of Karan's involvement with the brand moving forward.

“I’ve spoken to Donna several times. We don’t know what direction that will take," he said when asked about the possibility of Karan making a return, reports WWD. “Clearly this is an important name to Donna as it is to us. She’s interested clearly on how we’ve positioned it, how we protect her name, her DNA. Donna is extremely talented and I respect everything she’s done."

Thursday, December 1, 2016

Edward Meadham Returns

The news that London Fashion Week favourite Meadham Kirchhoff was closing last year was a loss felt keenly by the British fashion scene, but there is light at the end of the tunnel as one half of the designer duo behind it, Edward Meadham, is back with a new brand, Blue Roses.

"What I want most to convey, is that this is not Meadham Kirchhoff," Meadham said today. "It is not a collection with a huge grandiose theme or story, no elaborate or delicate frocks. It is just some stuff that can be worn on a daily basis in the real world, chucked in the washing machine and worn again - things that will get better with age. This is for the young, my fan-base are not addressed in fashion now - everything is both totally unaffordable to them and aimed at some 'type' remote from them. There is nothing for girls, for kids and weirdos. Blue Roses is for them."

Meadham briefly returned to the fashion scene last February when he created an edit of clothes to accompany Sophia Webster's autumn/winter 2017 footwear collection. His first collection for his own brand launches at Dover Street Market where it will be exclusively on sale, priced between £55 and £260. While hallmarks of Meadham's joyful, experimental aesthetic seen in the early days of Meadham Kirchhoff can be seen, for the designer the common thread is more literal than palpable.

"The name Blue Roses, a reference to Tennessee Williams, has been a reoccurring motif in my work forever," he explained. "A metaphor for 'otherness' of not fitting into the world and not wanting to as well as the illusion of artificial as a blue rose is not a natural occurrence. To me, blue roses are a symbol of defiance, of self-cultivation, in finding strength in what society perceives as weakness."

Hilfiger Heads To LA

Following its September extravaganza in New York, heralding the start of its new see-now, buy-now strategy, Tommy Hilfiger has announced that it is to hold its next ready-to-wear show in Los Angeles in February.

The decision to take the show on the road is said to be about "inclusivity, fusing fashion and entertainment, celebrating pop culture, and connecting our global consumers to inspiring, unexpected fashion experiences", according to Hilfiger, reports WWD. "The casual, cool, chic look that is leading the fashion world this season was born and bred in LA and I knew this show would feel at home on Venice Beach," he added.

The brand reported a positive response to its first see-now, buy-now outing, with several styles selling out straight away and a 900 per cent increase in traffic to its website in the 48 hours following the show. The LA show will incorporate looks from both the Spring 2017 Hilfiger Collection and the second Tommy x Gigi collaboration.

It will be the first time that the brand will be absent from the New York Fashion Week schedule but, rather than conflict with any other big-name brands, the label has decided to show on February 8th, the day before NYFW starts, meaning editors, buyers and other showgoers will be able to make the West Coast to East Coast journey in time for day one of the four-and-a-half week show marathon.

The event has been the subject of many of the latest fashion-news announcements in the last couple of weeks. Last month, NYFW regular Suno announced that it was closing shop with immediate affect and would not be appearing on the February line-up, while this week, Calvin Klein announced its intention to combine its menswear and womenswear collections during its February 10th show.

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

SJP To Open First Shop

She may be one of New York City's most famous residents - not to mention champions - but Sarah Jessica Parker has chosen to open the first standalone shop for her eponymous footwear label in Washington DC, the designer and actress has revealed.

"Opening a standalone store has long been a dream we have been working towards and we feel truly privileged to be doing so with the expertise, guidance and support of our brilliant partners at MGM Resorts,” Parker said in a press release. “It’s been very exciting to have been involved in all steps of the process, from on-site construction visits to the actual layout and design of our boutique. I'm honoured to be included in this massive undertaking and I'm very much looking forward to celebrating in December. Because perhaps then I will believe it's real."

"Today I reveal every detail of our long held secret! After many trips on @amtrak to DC, on-site construction visits, meetings on design and curating a very special collection we are opening our first standalone @sjpcollection store inside the brand new @mgmnationalharbor. The big launch is on December 8th and I'm counting down the hours, minutes and seconds until we officially open the doors. Because perhaps then I will actually believe it's real. Follow @sjpcollection to learn more over the coming weeks and months. X, Sj"

While the interior decoration of the shop has been kept under wraps, Parker shared image of a recent visit she made to the site with her Instagram followers yesterday, telling her three million followers that the doors will open on December 8th.

Samantha Cameron Launches Fashion Label

Samantha Cameron is launching her first fashion label, we can reveal, called Cefinn. The first pictures of the collection - which launches for spring/summer 2017 - can be seen exclusively in January Vogue, available on news stands Monday, December 5. The collection, which will be priced between £100 and £300, will comprise 40 pieces and will be available early next year from Net-A-Porter, Selfridges and its own-name website,

“I felt that there was a lot of American and French brands out there that fit that bracket of designer contemporary with the right price point and the right styling, but there aren’t that many British brands which fill that space,” Cameron - formerly creative director at Smythson, where she still holds a consultancy role - told us of her inspiration to start the label, which is named after the initials of her children. Although she revealed that she resisted the urge to design the collection with herself in mind.

“Well obviously you’re thinking about yourself, but at the same time it can’t be all about yourself because that would be pointless," she explained, adding: "I’ve spent a lot of time trying stuff on my friends.”

Rumours have been circulating about the fashion label since before Cameron's departure from 10 Downing Street this June. The former prime minister's wife, who has long been a champion of British fashion as well as an ambassador for the British Fashion Council, has waited until now to reveal any details about her next venture. 

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

First Look: Pirelli's 2017 Calendar Girls

Pirelli has revealed the first images from its 2017 calendar - shot this year by Peter Lindberg - of Robin Wright, Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman and Nicole Kidman. The actresses' images have all the hallmarks of Lindberg's work - stripped back, natural and beautiful - and continue in a similar portraiture vein to last year's calendar, which was photographed by Annie Lebowitz.

Lindberg chose to give the work the title "Emotional" to emphasise how the idea behind his photos was “to create a calendar not around perfect bodies, but on sensitivity and emotion, stripping down to the very soul of the sitters, who thus become more nude than naked,” said the brand today. It marks the third time that he has shot the famous compilation, having been responsible for the 1996 and 2002 editions.

Joining the four stars who were revealed today are Jessica Chastain, Penelope Cruz, Rooney Mara, Helen Mirren, Lupita Nyong’o, Charlotte Rampling, Lea Seydoux, Alicia Vikander, Kate Winslet, Zhang Ziyi and Anastasia Ignatova, professor of Political Theory at the Moscow State University of International Relations. The subjects were shot this year, between May and June in locations including Berlin, Los Angeles, New York, London and the beach at Le Touquet, France.

“My aim was to portray women in a different way and I did it by calling in actresses who’ve played an important role in my life, getting as close as possible to them to take my photos," explained Lindbergh. "As an artist, I feel I’m responsible for freeing women from the idea of eternal youth and perfection. The ideal of perfect beauty promoted by society is something that simply can’t be attained.”

Who's In And Who's Out At Victoria's Secret?

The Victoria’s Secret show will, as we predicted, be missing two of its most prominent figures tomorrow, as Angels Candice Swanepoel and Behati Prinsloo confirm that they will sit this one out. The twosome told their instagram followers this weekend that they wouldn’t travel to Paris with the rest of the Victoria’s Secret line-up after all.

The African duo, who made their debut together in 2007, both became mothers for the first time within weeks of one another this year - Prinsloo and husband Adam Levine welcoming their daughter, Dusty Rose, in September, and Swanepoel sharing the news of the arrival of her son, Anacã, with fiancé Hermann Nicoli in October. The show would have been the tenth Victoria’s Secret outing for both models, but both confirmed that they will be back on the catwalk for next year’s show.

“To the girls and crew, good luck in Paris, me and Dusty Rose will be cheering,” Prinsloo said. “Love you all, have fun in Paris and see you next year!” Meanwhile Swanepoel echoed her sentiments a few hours later: “Good luck in Paris beautiful ladies! So sad to be missing this show! No doubt it will be magical. So hard for me to disappoint the people that always root for me, I wish I was there making you all proud. Girls, enjoy the moments together, cant wait to see the show and can't wait for 2017!”

Prinsloo and Swaneopel aren’t the only two Angels missing from the line-up, two of the newest Angels – announced in April 2015 – won’t be putting on their wings for a second show. Kate Grigorieva and Jac Jagaciak aren’t included in the brand’s Angel line-up on its official website, although Grigorieva is set to walk regardless.

The presence of two of the most experienced Angels will surely be missed by those making their debut – an unusually large group this year with 18 rookies taking to the catwalk for the first time. In their absence, the rest of the Angels were on hand to give advice to the new starters.

“Take a breath and try to enjoy the moment,” Josephine Skriver said, while Romee Strijd advised them to “really embrace” the experience, despite their nerves.

So who can we expect to see on the catwalk this year if not the four missing Angels? The full list of the models walking in the Victoria’s Secret show 2016 is below:


Alessandra Ambrosio
Adriana Lima
Lily Aldridge
Elsa Hosk
Jasmine Tookes
Martha Hunt
Stella Maxwell
Taylor Hill
Sara Sampaio
Lais Ribeiro
Josephine Skriver
Romee Strijd


Leomie Anderson
Maria Borges
Daniela Braga
Cindy Bruna
Lily Donaldson
Barbara Fialho
Kelly Gale
Izabel Goulart
Kate Grigorieva
Gigi Hadid
Sui He
Rachel Hilbert
Valery Kaufman
Flavia Lucini
Bridget Malcolm
Kendall Jenner
Joan Smalls
Sanne Vloet
Liu Wen
Devon Windsor
Ming Xi


Maggie Laine
Luma Grothe
Lameka Fox
Georgia Fowler
Grace Elizabeth
Bella Hadid
Xiao Wen Ju
Keke Lindgard
Lais Oliveira
Herieth Paul
Brooke Perry
Jourdana Phillips
Camille Rowe
Zuri Tibby
Megan Williams
Irina Shayk
Alanna Arrington

Designers Dig Into Archives For Charity Sale

Vestaire Collective´s annual charity Christmas sale is taking on a different spin this year. Rather than have celebrities donate an exclusive item from their wardrobe to be sold for a worthy cause on the luxury e-commerce site, the brand has asked a group of esteemed fashion designers to select a piece from their archive to donate to the sale.Vestiaire Collective Reveals Resale Stats

Christopher Kane, Zac Posen, Chloé, Paul Smith and Nicholas Kirkwood are among the designers taking part in the e-commerce event which will satisfy on two sartorial counts: Number one, customers will get a chance to buy a piece of fashion history they missed first time (the very premise of Vestiaire Collective) and know that all proceeds will go to the designer’s charity of choice including Save the Children, Women for Women International and The Royal Marsden. The items are available as of today.

Designer: Christopher Kane - Charity: Women for Women.

“This is the perfect every day clutch bag, the love heart seems so simple and pure, almost child-like, but powerful and graphic" - Christopher Kane.

Designer: Chloe - Charity: Women For Women.

“The ultimate day-to-evening Chloé dress. This botanical print is one of my favourites from the autumn/winter 2015 collection. Women For Women is one of the most inspiring charities, bringing to our attention stories of women in conflict zones around the world. Their incredible work changes women’s lives every day” - Clare Waight Keller.

Designer: Temperley London - Charity: Women for Women.

"I have chosen this iconic piece as it embodies the bohemian effortless spirit of Temperley London. It showcases intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail which is synonymous with the brand. It is one of my favourite styles from the Temperley archive" - Alice Temperley.

Designer: Nicholas Kirkwood - Charity: Battersea Dogs' and Cats' Home.

"The Hepworth Sandal was inspired by the organic forms and modernist lines of sculptress Barbara Hepworth, she has always had a big influence on my work and this is one of my favourite styles" - Nicholas Kirkwood.

Designer: Sonia Rykiel - Charity: Women For Women.

"Beauty will always be striped" - Sonia Rykiel Maison.

Designer: Bionda Castana - Charity: Royal Marsden.

"Lana is our take on the classic single sole pump and is reflective of our love of architecture and art. It was the shoe that really got us on the shoe map, hence why I have such love for it. It is not plain yet works in the same capacity as a plain pump would with added cool. Easily worn with any outfit and eye catching, yet subtle signature geometric panelling make for an easy addition to anyones wardrobe. It’s available in every colour of the rainbow, but black is black!” - Natalia Barbieri.

Designer: Charlotte Olympia - Charity: Women for Women.

"These signature Charlotte Olympia shoes definitely sum up my motto of 'the higher the heel, the better you feel!’" - Charlotte Dellal.

Designer: Ghurka - Charity: Women For Women.

“We chose the Stash because it is so timeless and part of our heritage – the fact that we have a “shoe” compartment is quite special for today’s shoe addicts. We had no idea how modern this was when it was made back in the Seventies. The full panel outside zip compartment means your iPad, phone, and other essentials are easily obtained outside the bag” - Kathy Formby, creative director.

Designer: House of Dagmar - Charity: Women For Women.

"For this dress I wanted a bohemian approach to contemporary flamboyance. The eclectic combination of a kaftan inspired shape with cuts and layers of different textures define the dress” - Kristina Tjäder, creative director.

Designer: Shrimps - Charity: Child Bereavement Charity UK.

"The Bobbin coat is a very Shrimps coat; I love the name, its shape, the all over stripes, and the deep bottle green colour. This style was our hero coat for AW15” - Hannah Weiland, creative director.

Designer: Tome - Charity: Freedom for All.

"This piece is a classic and signature for us – it embodies our aesthetic, ideals, and taste levels and was made with the confident and independent Tome woman in mind who feels great while wearing it” - Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin.

Designer: Avelon - Charity: KiKa.

"Avelon is casual couture; this dress is an iconic piece that symbolises this. For this handmade dress couture elements were used such as draping and the sculptural appliqué but all executed in a casual way by the use of jersey and felt. With the sale of this dress I’d like to support KiKa. KiKa is a Dutch foundation that helps fund child cancer research” - Avelon Maison.

Designer: Ganni - Charity: Danish Refugee Council.

“I wore this dress at The Elle Style Awards in 2014. We won the category Brand of the Year that evening, it really meant a lot to me, because it signified a milestone in our efforts with Ganni. Also there is something really fun and festive about sequins. It’s the perfect party dress” - Ditte Reffstrup, creative director.

Designer: Zac Posen - Charity: Save The Children.

“The gown is classic glamour and a signature style to the house. It’s a gown that works with many body types and makes any woman feel like they’re ready for that red-carpet moment” - Zac Posen.

Designer: Isa Arfen - Charity: Italian Red Cross.

"It is such a pleasure to donate this silk-cotton dress to Vestiaire Collective for their Christmas Charity Initiative. With its off-the-shoulder knotted neckline and decadent ruffles, I think it perfectly encapsulates the essence of the Isa Arfen aesthetics: feminine, sophisticated, a little eccentric but always relaxed. I hope the new owner will enjoy wearing it as much as I enjoyed creating it!" - Serafina Sama, creative director.

Designer: Rosetta Getty - Charity: Women for Women.

"I design with women in mind, their needs and their daily lives and how clothing can speak to those needs. The Tie Front Wrap Coat embodies the virtues of day to evening dressing that are a key part of my brand DNA” - Rosetta Getty.

Designer: Kenzo - Charity: Blue Marine Foundation.

"We wanted to use the Mini Kali as an accessory that represents our arrival at Kenzo. A meeting of West Coast ease and Parisian refinement. Coming from California, the Blue Marine Foundation is close to our hearts. Around 90 per cent of global fish stocks are fully or over-exploited and around 90 per cent of large fish are gone. The Blue Marine Foundation assists in educating the worlds fishermen and in protecting marine life through the creation of large scale marine reserves. If we don’t act now, we’ll be in dire straits in 20 years’ time, with much fish reserves depleted. Help us help the Blue Marine Foundation!" - Carol Lim and Humberto Leon.

Designer: Paul Smith - Charity: Action Against Hunger.

“I’m famous for my tailoring and so hopefully this classic two-button suit from my women’s collection will help raise money for a very important cause” - Paul Smith.

Calvin Klein Opts For Co-Ed Shows

A day after Bottega Veneta announced that it would be amalgamating its womenswear and menswear collections into one show, Calvin Klein has revealed that it intends to do the same come February. The show is already a hot ticket on the New York Fashion Week schedule for next season, given that it is chief creative officer Raf Simons's first for the house. It will now herald not only a new aesthetic for the house, but a new structure also.

The show - which will also feature accessories - is slated to take place on February 10th at 10am, reports WWD. Moving forward, the combined show will take the usual womenswear slot on the ready-to-wear schedules in February and September in the traditional format of autumn/winter and spring/summer respectively. There is no suggestion at this stage that the label will follow in the footsteps of other brands and adopt a see-now, buy-now strategy.

In his new position at the American brand, Simons is in charge of not only the runway edit, Calvin Klein Collection, but also Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. The designer won't be entirely absent from the menswear shows however - he intends to show his eponymous menswear label, Raf Simons, during New York: Mens for the first time on February 1 st.

Bottega Veneta Moves To Co-Ed Shows

Bottega Veneta has announced that it will combine its menswear and womenswear ready-to-wear shows moving forward. The amalgamation will happen as of February at the brand’s Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2017 womenswear show - thereafter the brand will show at the womenswear fashion weeks in February and September.

The announcement comes as many brands look to diversify their seasonality and show offerings. Fellow Italian brand DSquared2 announced in September that it was also opting to show co-ed collections, but in its January and June menswear slots rather than its February and September womenswear slots, a strategy that Vetements revealed it would be adopting come January 2017. Other brands, such as Burberry, announced that they too would combine their menswear and womenswear collections, but in a see-now, buy-now capacity (a model being embraced by an increasing number of high-profile brands including Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren).

By choosing to combine its collections in its womenswear slot, rather than a month earlier (a move that many have pointed out gives product longer on the shop floor), Bottega Veneta has indicated that it is focused on matters other than immediacy. Creative director Tomas Maier told us in September, as the brand celebrated its 50th anniversary, that the house "remains committed to a timing of presentation and launch that gives production the time necessary to create a sophisticated handcrafted collection that conveys a dream even before it hits the boutiques."

"This decision represents a natural evolution following the combined spring/summer 2017 fashion show, which was held in September 2016 at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera in Milan and presented both women’s and men’s collections in celebration of Tomas Maier’s 15th anniversary as creative director of Bottega Veneta and the 50th anniversary of the house since its foundation in Vicenza, in the Veneto region of Italy," read a statement from the brand this morning. "The Bottega Veneta universe is built on both genders. As a consequence, showing both women and men together is an organic move that follows the evolution of Tomas Maier’s creative vision. The house remains, in any case, committed to a presentation timing and production launch that allows the period necessary to create a sophisticated handcrafted collection that conveys a dream even before it hits the boutiques."

The fashion house's move to co-ed shows is its first big announcement since it appointed its new CEO, Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, in September. “Lahrs's outstanding experience and extensive knowledge of the luxury market will be crucial in the management of the exceptional maison that Bottega Veneta is,” François-Henri Pinault - chairman and CEO of Kering, which owns the Italian fashion house - said at the time.

LCF Reveals UN Project Winners

London College of Fashion has revealed the winners of its UN Orange Label Project this morning, an initiative that was set up in collaboration with the UN Trust Fund to raise awareness about the importance of ending violence against women.

One of a number of activities that have been arranged to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the UN Trust Fund To End Violence Against Women, LCF's Orange Label Project was designed to create a positive way to engage young audiences with the issue. Fashion students from institutions across the globe took on the brief, which was to produce a piece of work that communicated the message "No to violence against women", in categories including beauty, journalism, design, photography, film and illustration. The only stipulations were that entries had to include the colour orange and "exemplify and personify anti-violence" messages.

"Something that we feel very strongly about at the college, and something I have always tried to instigate in my time here, is that fashion is more than just the clothes that we wear and can be used as a force for change," Frances Corner, head of LCF and pro-vice chancellor of UAL, told us. "In this way, we want to use fashion to raise awareness of violence against women and girls as a global pandemic, and to challenge the narratives currently in existence in the fashion industry. What impressed me the most about the student competition was the positivity of the entries. The idea was to celebrate 20 years of the UN Trust Fund, so it wasn’t designed to highlight individual stories, or use shock tactics. The students took an ideal and made it come alive, they illustrated a world of equality where their subjects were truly empowered."

"At LCF we have 85 per cent female students who are going out as young graduates into the industry, and if we can work with them at this stage to make them aware of this problem then we can make a long-term change. And it’s not just about the women, it’s about the men too – so sharing the project globally maximises its reach."

See the winning entries, each of which was awarded £500 and the opportunity to be shown on the LCF website and

Stuart Vevers: The Future's Bright

"I'm terrible at looking back, I'm so focused on looking forward!" Stuart Vevers laughs, as he reclines on a sumptuous sofa in the new Coach flagship on London's Regent Street - the brand for which he has been creative director since 2013 - which opened its doors in the same week as its Fifth Avenue counterpart in New York City. "I find it hard to congratulate myself."

If Vevers can't congratulate himself, someone should. The Yorkshireman, who now resides full time in NYC, has transformed the aesthetic of the American fashion house from “heritage” to “happening” since he took over the top job, adding a whimsical vein to all of his collections, and using words such as "spontaneous", "fun", and "innovation" to express the direction he wants the brand to take. The result? Critical acclaim and a whole new generation of fans - no more so than in the UK where Coach’s reputation as a desirable luxury label is growing.

"A lot of people are still discovering Coach in the UK - we’ve not been a part of peoples’ lives like people who have grown up with it in America," he says. "Along with our store on Fifth Avenue, this is our biggest store in the world – we’ve been busy! This is the fullest expression of the brand, where you have access to the full offer of the runway collections, both men’s and women's. There’s a lot of touches that I introduced that were about making you smile. At its heart, Coach is a very inclusive brand so I wanted it to be inviting and warm and friendly."

With a massive fluorescent pink dinosaur (Rexy The Coach Dino) residing in the flagship's windows, friendly is certainly the first impression customers will get when they walk through the doors. That is before they discover all the other playful elements of the store, such as a monogramming service that, in addition to the usual initials, offers symbols such as unicorns and the large wall that can be moved around "that was inspired by New York dry cleaners", according to Vevers.

"I guess it’s another opportunity for me to say, 'This is a new day at Coach,'" he continues. "When I first joined, I used our history as a touch stone so it was for me to discover the things that would be believable at Coach. I felt it was important to be bold and look forward and explore what the next generation want from luxury and fashion."

Back to looking forward again - which for the designer means gearing up for his first co-ed show in December, when he will show his autumn.winter 2017 menswear and pre-autumn/winter 2017 women's ready-to-wear together on the runway.

"I'm really excited about our show in December," he smiles. "I want to continue to challenge the preconceptions about luxury. We’re in a position to do something different and offer a fresh take at Coach and I’m really excited that a sneaker or a sweatshirt or a backpack can be luxury pieces today. The idea that luxury is about formality or something that’s perfect – that doesn’t feel relevant. I'm happy that Coach is grounded in the reality of what people want to wear. It’s not a fantasy jet-set brand, it’s a reality. That’s what I’m looking forward to developing in 2017."

When the future looks as interesting as Vevers explains, who wouldn't prefer to look forward than back?

The Angel Line-Up: Who's Missing?

With fewer than six days to go before the Victoria's Secret show hits Paris, the countdown to the annual extravaganza is well and truly on. While our Instagram feeds are filling up with models confirming that they will be walking, the brand has hinted that two of its most famous faces might be missing from the line-up this year.

Behati Prinsloo and Candice Swanepoel - who were given their wings in 2009 and 2010 respectively - are not included in the Angels listed on the fashion show section of the Victoria's Secret website, which could provide the answer to much speculation as to whether the pair will take to the runway just a couple of months after they both became first-time mothers.

Prinsloo and husband Adam Levine welcomed their daughter, Dusty Rose, in September, while Swanepoel announced the birth of her son, Anacã, with fiancé Hermann Nicoli in mid October.

The pair, who revealed their pregnancies via Instagram within days of each other earlier this year, are two of the lingerie label's most high-profile stars. When the news broke of their imminent arrivals, the brand's chief marketing officer, Ed Razek, suggested that they planned to be back to work in time for the show. The executive, who oversees the show, posted a picture of the models on social media captioned: "I am so happy for these two amazing beauties and mums to be! See you at the fashion show Angels!"

Current Angels Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, Lily Aldridge, Elsa Hosk, Jasmine Tookes, Josephine Skriver, Lais Ribeiro, Martha Hunt, Romee Strijd, Sara Sampaio, Stella Maxwell and Taylor Hill are all listed in the line-up for this year's catwalk show, which is to be held in the French capital's famous Grand Palais venue next Wednesday. While Prinsloo and Swanepoel are missing - as are Kate Grigorieva and Jac Jagaciak - we can't help but wonder whether they will give us an angel delight with a surprise appearance on the night.Victoria's Secret Confirms Lady Gaga.

Thursday, November 24, 2016

Kate Backs Homeless Christmas Appeal

Kate Moss has thrown her support behind Centrepoint's Young and Homeless Helpline Christmas Appeal, praising the charity for the invaluable work that it does helping the capital's "hidden homeless".

"It is disturbing to think that in 2016 young people are still forced to sleep rough," she told the Evening Standard. "Centrepoint's work is invaluable in helping the most vulnerable put a roof over their head, somewhere they can feel safe and warm. It provides both physical and emotional support, teaching these young adults the life skills they need to live independently."

According to official statistics, the number of under-25-year-olds living on the street in London has tripled to 830 in the last five years. Moss urged people to give generously to the organisation's Christmas appeal which is raising money to provide a free helpline assisting vulnerable youths to get support over issues including bullying, sexual abuse and drug addition.

Other stars also backed the campaign, including Stephen Fry, who said, "It may be silly and typically human to think so hard about young homeless people only at Christmas, But it's a start, After all, the misery and loneliness is thrown into its sharpest relief at the coldest time of year when most of us are lucky enough to be with those we love, warm under a sheltering roof. So let's do all we can to help the unlucky ones this year."

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Urban Outfitters Settles Lawsuit With Navajo Nation

Urban Outfitters has resolved its five-year legal battle with the Navajo Nation.

The settlement, which was signed by a federal judge last week, states that all claims related to the case have been reconciled, according to New Mexico newspaper the Farmington Daily Times. While terms of the agreement between the clothing company and the Native American group will remain confidential, a press release from the Navajo Nation office of the president and vice president revealed that they have plans to collaborate on an American Indian jewellery collection.

The Navajo Nation filed a lawsuit against Urban Outfitters in 2012, after the American brand released a range of items - including clothing and accessories - labeled as "Navajo" and featuring designs said to be signature to the group, accusing it of the cultural appropriation of its name and aesthetic.

"We believe in protecting our Nation, our artisans, designs, prayers, and way of life," Navajo Nation's president, Russell Begaye, said in a statement. "We expect that any company considering the use of the Navajo name, or our designs or motifs, will ask us for our permission."

Of settling the case, Azeez Hayne, general counsel for Urban Outfitters Inc., said that the brand was pleased to have reached an agreement.

"As a company, Urban Outfitters has long been inspired by the style of Navajo and other American Indian artists and looks forward to the opportunity to work with them on future collaborations," he said. “We take the rights of artists and designers seriously, both in protecting our own and in respecting the rights of others."

Ralph Lauren To Be Honoured For Outstanding Achievement

Ralph Lauren will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award at the Fashion Awards two weeks today, the BFC announced this afternoon.

The New York-based designer, who founded his eponymous label in 1967, is to be honoured "for his invaluable contribution to the fashion industry" during the ceremony at London's Royal Albert Hall. Of giving the accolade to Lauren, whose designs have been frequent favourites amongst the fashion industry and celebrity names, BFC chairman Natalie Massenet said: “Ralph Lauren is an exemplary designer and businessman. He has helped to define an era in both American and global fashion with his singular vision; I know that most of us would say he has inspired us immeasurably."

"He has built an outstanding legacy and I look forward to celebrating him for years to come,” she added.

In receiving the Outstanding Achievement Award, the designer - who is also frequently celebrated for his philanthropic endeavours - follows in the footsteps of recent recipients Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour, Terry and Tricia Jones, and Manolo Blahnik.

Suno Closes Down

Acclaimed American fashion label Suno is closing down, its founder Max Osterweis has confirmed.

"After eight extraordinary years, we have decided to close this chapter and let this resort collection be our last delivery," Osterweis, who acted as CEO for the brand, told the BoF. "We have been humbled by the incredible support that we have had from the moment we launched."

Osterweis founded the label in 2008, bringing on board Parsons School of Design graduate Erin Beatty as designer. Pitched as a "luxury lifestyle brand with a conscience", Suno has enjoyed considerable success in the eight years it has been in operations, including being a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in 2011 and 2012; winning the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear Ethical Production in 2013; and being a finalist for the LVMH Young Fashion Designers Prize in 2014. Its collections, which were designed in New York and made by local artisans in countries where the brand sourced fabrics from (including Romania, Italy and Kenya), always aimed to keep the emphasis on social responsibility and were seen on Michelle Obama, Christy Turlington, Beyoncé and Taylor Swift to name a few.

The brand - which raised suspicion when it came off the NYFW schedule this season and didn't replace its vice president of wholesale and merchandising, Mary Song, who left in August - is said to have struggled to find investment to move forward.

"It's been a wild and wonderful journey and we would like to extend our deepest thanks to everyone who has been there along the way," concluded Osterweis.

Vera Wang Swaps New York For Paris

Vera Wang will skip her slot on the New York Fashion Week roster in February, instead opting to present her autumn/winter 2017 collection in a film. Furthermore, rather than reveal it during the New York shows, she will release it on the first day of Paris Fashion Week - the same day that she is set to receive the Légion d'Honneur in the French capital.

The film will be "a bit of an ode to Paris”, she promises, but she is yet to choose a director (though she is considering Gordon von Steiner, with whom she has worked previously), reports WWD.

Whilst she wanted to pay tribute to Paris in return, Wang admitted that a show in the French capital would not have been possible as her company "lacks the infrastructure to support such a trans-Atlantic event". The film's concept, which is still in the pipeline, will provide the basis for the collection. As for whether or not she would make a return to show in her native New York in the future, the designer revealed that she hasn't decided yet.

“Probably we will, but maybe in a very different format,” she said, before disclosing some concerns that she has about the schedule. “Part of the frustrating thing for me in New York, the calendar is so full now that it’s insane to try to get models and hair and makeup. It’s a battle royale for everybody - stylists, model agencies - everybody is just crammed in. The other part that has troubled me — not anything against the CFDA, because I have supported it - but there aren’t that many locations available. That’s a limitation when you’re trying to express a point of view, or you have a certain kind of girl in your brain, or guy in your brain. That is the biggest limitation for me, for the moment, until Diane von Furstenberg is finished with the High Line and all of that. I can’t say that hasn’t been challenging for me. Not all of us can take the Armory in order to create a world.”

The news comes several days after it was confirmed that another big name on the usual NYFW schedule will be missing come February - Hugo Boss revealed last week that its Boss womenswear line, helmed by Jason Wu, won't be showing next season as a result of the brand taking "strategic steps to orient its creation, marketing and communication activities more pointedly towards menswear".

Vogue Fashion Fund Reveals New Format

The BFC has today announced a shake up to the format of the BFC / Vogue Fashion Fund for next year, in order to focus on helping even more up-and-coming designers with growing and developing their businesses.

In 2017, the £200,000 financial reward - which is used to provide vital infrastructure to build on the successful applicant's next stage of their business - will be shared between up to three recipients, rather than given to a single winner, "in recognition of the increasing pool of deserving talent" and to "enable the fund to benefit multiple designers at a pivotal stage in the growth of their brand’s development". The winning designers and brands will receive the BFC's mentoring programme as well, including access to potential investors and expert advice from fashion industry members.

In line with the new format, the application and award process for next year has been revised "to embrace the impact that hiring experienced talent has had on previous winners", recognising the importance of bringing new knowledge into companies. The grant is intended to go towards a full-time or consultant team member to advise on areas such as accountancy, merchandising, business strategy, international growth, retail and e-commerce. The BFC said this morning that the impact of the new format will be assessed and the panel will decide whether or not to continue with this revised model or revert to the former one in due course.

Shortlisted applicants will be interviewed by the Fashion Fund judging committee, which is chaired by Vogue editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman and comprised of key figures in the fashion community: the British Fashion Council's Caroline Rush; Gemma Metheringham of Label; Ian Lewis of Harrys of London Limited; Browns's Joan Burstein; Lisa Armstrong from The Daily Telegraph; Mary Homer, from Topshop; British Fashion Council ambassador Samantha Cameron; Sarah Manley of Burberry and Susanne Tide-Frater from Farfetch.

Some of the biggest names in the British fashion industry have been previous recipients of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, including Erdem, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto and Mary Katrantzou and, this year's winner, Sophia Webster.

Of receiving this year's fund, Webster said: “The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is such an important and well-regarded award within the industry, and was a big accomplishment for my brand. Winning the fund this year was an incredible way to be recognised, and has
also given me the opportunity to grow my business and my team.”

DVF CEO Resigns

Diane Von Furstenberg Paolo Riva has resigned from the company with immediate effect, reports the BoF. The decision, which is said to have been made by Riva, comes 19 months after he was appointed as the fashion house's first-ever chief executive officer in April 2015.

"I would like to thank Paolo for his contribution to DVF. Our business strategy and Jonathan Saunders's vision for the brand remain in place," said founder and chairman Diane von Furstenberg, referring to her recently appointed chief creative officer. "I am very excited about our future."

Riva joined the house from Tory Burch, where he was vice president of apparel and visual merchandising. During his time at the brand, it was reported that its annual revenue for 2015 was estimated at $500 million and Saunders - who shuttered his eponymous London-based label late last year - was brought on to succeed Von Furstenberg in the design stakes. His first collection, which was unveiled during New York Fashion Week in September, was praised by editors and buyers alike, heralding a new beginning for the esteemed American house. At this stage, Riva's next move is unknown.

Tom: It Was Love At First Sight

Tom Ford has revealed that it was a classic case of love at first sight when he met his husband, Richard Buckley, with whom he is about to celebrate his 30th anniversary.

"It was literally one of those things. It was literally love at first sight," he told Jess Cagle in his eponymous interview series, reports People. "The first time I can remember seeing his eyes it freaked me out. I really could almost not look at him. There was something in his eyes that said, 'Literally, the rest of your life.' It was wonderful, but very scary."

Ford first met fashion journalist Buckley when the pair attended a fashion show held by a mutual friend on New Year's Eve in 1986, and - as he recalled - it only took an elevator ride for his feelings to be confirmed.

"Our eyes locked and within a month we were living together and we have been together ever since," he smiled. "I am an intuitive person - but also a rational person - and we were in an elevator and we went down about 10 floors and Richard was patting his eyes and talking a lot. And I remember just sort of standing back and looking him up and down – taking him in – and by the time that elevator landed on the ground floor I was like, ‘You’re the one; that’s it; Click! Sold'."

Three decades down the line, the couple - who have a four-year-old son, Alexander John Buckley Ford - have found the secret to relationship longevity, according to the designer.

"First of all, you have to respect each other. If the person you are with is someone you respect who you believe has a great heart and a great soul – as good a heart and soul as you will ever find – don’t ever leave them, because you won’t ever find anyone better," he said. "So even if you have an argument or a fight or there are moments – even years – that can be tough (I don’t mean extended periods of years, but you know we all go through moments in life ), stick it out, work at it - as long as it is someone you respect and admire and you are kindred spirits - because you won’t find a better one. Hold on."

Thursday, November 17, 2016

Boss Not Showing At NYFW

As a part of its report restructuring, Hugo Boss has confirmed that its Boss womenswear line - headed up by Jason Wu - won't be showing at New York Fashion Week in February.

The decision is a result of the brand taking "strategic steps to orient its creation, marketing and communication activities more pointedly towards menswear" in the hope of returning the company to growth by 2018.

The brand were keen to point out that despite not showing a ready-to-wear collection at the American leg of the shows next year, its collaboration with Wu will continue and remains "extremely important".

“Our womenswear is, and will remain, a key component of our medium-term growth strategy, and the creative input offered by Jason Wu remains extremely important to us," said Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer for Hugo Boss. "We value his work very highly. However, it is essential that we achieve a better balance between our menswear, which has traditionally been so pivotal for us, and our womenswear."

Wilts also revealed that the brand would be showing Boss menswear collections on schedule from next season.

The news comes amid reports that the brand is raising prices in Europe, but dropping them in Asia in a bid to raise revenue and draw a clear distinction between its two brands: Hugo and Boss. Boss will focus on upper premium business wear, while Hugo will target younger consumers with casualwear. It will be discontinuing the Boss Orange and Boss Green labels, Hugo Boss Clarifies CEO Comments.

"By further developing our strategy we want to steer Hugo Boss back toward sustainable growth," CEO Mark Lahrs told Sky News. "We are sharpening our presentation and focusing on our customers' needs more consistently. In Boss and Hugo we have two strong brands with their own identity, which appeal to different target groups."

Meet H&M's Design Award Winner

Central Saint Martin´s  graduate Richard Quinn was awarded with the annual H&M Design Award in London yesterday, granting him €50,000, a year's mentorship, and the chance to develop pieces from his winning collection to be sold in the high-street store.

“We all fell in love with Richard. He has a clear vision for his brand, and a real wow factor in his collections. Richard is deeply creative, with a very holistic view of the environment, and he’s a worthy winner of the H&M Design Award 2017,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative advisor.

Johansson was joined on the jury by Imran Amed, editor-in-chief of Business of Fashion, Pernille Teisbaek, founder and creative director of Social Zoo, Zanita Whittington, creative director of Azalle and Zanita Studio, Yasmin Sewell, fashion director of, Hannah Jinkins, winner of the H&M Design Award 2016 and Margareta van den Bosch, creative advisor to H&M.

The judges were most impressed with 26-year-old Quinn's fabrics, which he prints himself using ethical processes in his studio in east London, where he plans to open a creative space to become an inspiring centre for other young designers in the capital.

"It means so much to win the H&M Design Award," said Quinn. "I want to create my own collection, as well as offer my generation a creative hub, supporting real craft in London."

Quinn beat seven other finalists to the top spot. Constance Blackaller, Yu Li Song, Alex Huang, Amir Marc, Max Luo, YuTyng Chiu and Chen Peng were all highly commended and were each awarded €5,000.