Monday, March 31, 2025

The V&A’s Fashion Wing Will Become The Burberry Gallery Following A Major Transformation

The V&A has been behind countless blockbuster fashion exhibitions over the years, from the 2015 Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty retrospective (which started life at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York), to 2024’s first-of-its-kind Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto extravaganza. It makes sense, then, that the London museum is continuing to level up its fashion offering, by transforming its permanent Fashion Gallery at its main South Kensington site.

“Fashion has always been integral to the story of the V&A, and since the 1970s, the museum has had a rolling programme of temporary fashion exhibitions which have led the way in contemporary exhibition design and continue to be extremely popular with our visitors,” Tristram Hunt, director of the V&A, tells Vogue. “The Fashion Gallery is a much beloved space within the museum but has not been structurally updated since the 1960s. This gives us a spectacular opportunity to showcase the full range of our global collections, as well as more contemporary designers.”

From the start of May, the Fashion Gallery will undergo a period of extensive redevelopment, supported by Burberry. When it reopens in the spring of 2027, it will be renamed The Burberry Gallery, in recognition of the V&A’s partnership with the British fashion house. “As the UK’s leading fashion brand, Burberry is the perfect partner for the V&A to celebrate the richness, heritage and diversity of our fashion collections,” Hunt says.


“Burberry’s partnership with the V&A marks an incredible moment for British arts and culture,” Joshua Schulman, the brand’s CEO, adds in a statement. “It unites two centuries-old cultural icons with a shared legacy of heritage and innovation, and a commitment to championing creativity in all its forms. We are so thrilled to come together with the V&A team to celebrate the rich history of our industry and to develop an immersive space that will inspire creative minds for generations to come.”

While the Fashion Gallery may be closed until 2027, have no fear: museum-goers will still be able to get their fashion fix via the V&A’s Cartier exhibition opening in April and the Marie Antoinette Style showcase launching in September. Meanwhile, access to the V&A’s fashion collection will be available at the V&A East Storehouse, opening on 31 May, and online.

Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Mugler Appoints New Creative Director As Casey Cadwallader Departs

Miguel Castro Freitas is to succeed Casey Cadwallader as creative director of Mugler, parent company L’Oréal announced today. “Miguel lives and breathes the Mugler spirit. His deep understanding of Mugler’s DNA and his vast creativity and talent made him a natural choice,” said Danièle Lahana-Aidenbaum, global brand president of Mugler Fashion & Fragrances.

A Portuguese national, Castro Freitas is unknown to the public and little known in the fashion industry. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2004, was handpicked by John Galliano to work at Dior after graduation and has held designer jobs at Yves Saint Laurent under Stefano Pilati and Lanvin alongside Alber Elbaz. Most notably, he has been head of tailoring at Christian Dior, led by Raf Simons, head of womenswear at Dries Van Noten and creative director of Sportmarx from SS21 to SS24. He may not fall in the big-name designer category or have a presence on social media, but he has 20 years of experience working for established luxury houses.

“It is an honour to join the spectacular house of Mugler. As one of the twentieth century’s great couturiers, Mr Mugler reimagined the power and limits of fashion. Alongside the teams, I am thrilled to bring my own vision, story and emotion to this monumental heritage,” said Castro Freitas.

Mugler was absent from the Paris Fashion Week calendar for Autumn/Winter 2025, which fuelled speculation regarding changes at its creative helm. This morning, in a separate statement, the house said that Cadwallader would be stepping down at the end of March. “Over the last seven years, his unique vision has helped introduce Mugler to a new generation, all the while celebrating core themes of empowerment, inclusivity and identity. On behalf of the team, we wish Casey the utmost success in his next ventures,” Lahana-Aidenbaum said.

“Mugler is like no other, and it was exciting to lean into all that it could mean in today’s culture. I am forever grateful to my team, collaborators and friends, whose support and talent made this vision come to life,” Cadwallader said.

Mugler is a house with a strong heritage that faces the peculiarity of being the only fashion business within L’Oréal’s portfolio, save for a new minority investment in Jacquemus. (L’Oréal acquired Mugler and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins in late 2019.) Fragrances are understood to still represent the lion’s share of Mugler’s business, with blockbuster perfumes such as Angel and Alien.

Founder Thierry Mugler, who became synonymous with the power shoulders of the 1980s, shook up fashion. His shows were huge theatrical spectacles open to thousands of spectators. He also brought new energy to ready-to-wear and challenged definitions of haute couture with exaggerated proportions and the introduction of materials such as rubber and PVC. He is known for pioneering diversity and inclusion on the runway.


The flamboyant designer changed his name (to Manfred Thierry Mugler) in 2002, the year he left his namesake house. Clarins, which bought the brand in the 1990s, shut down the loss-making fashion business in 2002 before reviving it in 2010. Clarins tapped Nicola Formichetti, who designed for four seasons from 2011 to 2013 and was succeeded by David Koma from 2013 to 2017. “Under Formichetti and then Koma, Mugler became a mainstay of the after-dark scene, the place to shop for slinky, strong separates for a night out,” wrote Steff Yotka for Vogue when Cadwallader was appointed in December 2017.

During Cadwallader’s seven-year tenure, Mugler became the go-to brand for big-name performers and celebrities, including Beyoncé, Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion and Dua Lipa. Following in the founder’s footsteps, Cadwallader has also become known for his diverse and inclusive casting. When the house founder passed away in January 2022, Cadwallader spoke to Vogue Runway and Vogue Business global director Nicole Phelps about carrying on and adapting Mugler’s legacy for the future. “You just see the types of beauty that he was channelling. There are curvy people, trans performers and porn stars, and all of these different cultural elements collaging together to form this very open vision of beauty. And honestly, that’s my life,” he said.

During the pandemic, Cadwallader chose to direct a series of fashion films in lieu of shows. Mugler also switched to a see-now, buy-now approach, meaning the collections were available to buy at the same time the films went live. Mugler’s first IRL show post-pandemic took place in January 2023 at Paris’s La Villette park outside of the fashion calendar. The show carried over the cinematic feel of the films with the models, including Ziwe, Arca, Anok Yai, Paloma Elsesser and Debra Shaw, being followed by a camera while walking on the runway.

The brand followed the same strategy until spring/summer 2025, when it staged a more pared-back, salon-style show in the Paris concert hall Le Trianon. Vogue Business went behind the scenes at the show, where the focus was on the clothes, as opposed to the large-scale, performance-heavy shows of the past.

L’Oréal doesn’t break out revenues of individual brands, but managing director Adrian Corsin told Vogue Business in September 2024 that Mugler fashion grew in high double digits for 2023, driven by Asia, a strong denim business and the launch of leather goods like the Spiral Curve bag. Under Corsin, who has led the fashion business since April 2023, Mugler pivoted away from the see-now, buy-now model and returned to the fashion calendar and a seasonal strategy.

“Having worked under some of the industry’s most prolific designers, Miguel boasts an incredible talent in tailoring, combined with a vision that is all his own. His love and knowledge of Mugler’s couture codes and heritage will be a limitless source of storytelling and help propel the house into the future,” said Corsin about the house’s new creative director.

Castro Freitas will join Mugler on 1 April. His debut show for Mugler will take place in September, during the high-stakes spring/summer 2026 season, which will see a number of debuts, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Mark Thomas at Carven.

Monday, March 24, 2025

Proenza Schouler’s New Creative Directors

“We’ve, of course, followed Loewe for a long time and have the deepest respect for what has been built over the past decade – it’s truly incredible,” Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez share with Vogue Business on Sunday evening. A few hours later, on Monday morning, the founders and former creative directors of Proenza Schouler would be appointed creative directors of the LVMH-owned Spanish fashion house. Their nomination, which is effective 7 April, comes exactly a week after Loewe confirmed the departure of longtime creative director Jonathan Anderson.

“The house’s values have always spoken to us and align very closely with our own: a commitment to craft and the arts, the freedom and love of experimentation and pushing boundaries, and, of course, a deep engagement with culture,” the designer duo add. “These are all things we’ve consistently pursued at Proenza Schouler, albeit on a smaller, more independent scale. The goal is to honour the codes of the house through the lens of our own cultural histories and personal aesthetic perspectives. The role of a creative director today, in our view, is to highlight the brand’s core identity in a new way and make it resonate with the current moment.”

The first thing they plan to do upon arriving is to meet the teams, artisans, and craftspeople. “The level of craft that comes out of this house is second to none so we’re beyond excited to learn, collaborate, and together help shape the next chapter of this remarkable brand’s history,” they say.

McCollough and Hernandez rose to fame in 2002 when they founded New York cult label Proenza Schouler after graduating from Parsons School of Design. Known for its cool-girl, New York spirit, the label became an NYFW mainstay over the last two decades, save for a short-lived stint showing in Paris for spring/summer 2018 and autumn/winter 2018. McCollough and Hernandez announced their departure from Proenza Schouler in January but will remain on the board and continue to be shareholders. A new creative director is yet to be announced.

“When we stepped down from Proenza Schouler earlier this year, we spoke about the importance of having multiple and diverse chapters in life to keep things interesting and moving forward. When Loewe called we knew it was a challenge we wanted to take on,” McCollough and Hernandez explain about their decision to leave the label they founded. “We’ve known Delphine Arnault [chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture] and Sidney Toledano [advisor to LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault] for years and have stayed in touch. We have immense admiration and respect for everything they’ve built.”

In the house’s release on Monday, Toledano is quoted saying that McCollough and Hernandez’s “eclectic creativity and dedication to craft make them a natural choice to build the next chapter for Loewe”.


They have big shoes to fill. During his 11-year tenure, Jonathan Anderson took Loewe from a small luxury brand that few knew how to pronounce to one of the buzziest labels in fashion. He maintained Loewe’s focus on craftsmanship, bringing strong cultural references, from canonical literature and music to hyperrealism. Alongside successful products like the Puzzle bag, Anderson built a Loewe universe. The brand’s marketing is often revered, notably its killer TikTok strategy, memorable campaigns starring the likes of Daniel Craig and Maggie Smith, and megawatt pool of young ambassadors, including Drew Starkey, Ayo Edebiri and Taylor Russell.

Loewe sales went from approximately €230 million in 2014, according to Morgan Stanley estimates, to between €1.5 billion and €2 billion in 2024, according to estimates by Bernstein analyst Luca Solca. Lyst ranked Loewe in the top five hottest brands each quarter of 2024 (it ranked first in Q2). And, in its 2024 earnings statement, LVMH said Loewe was “buoyed by growing brand awareness and the bold creativity of its collections”.

McCollough and Hernandez’s Proenza Schouler was better known for its New York cool-girl clients, including Chloë Sevigny and Moda Operandi founder Lauren Santo Domingo. While perhaps less esoteric than Anderson’s approach, their play with silhouette and strong knowledge of footwear and accessories may place them well at Loewe, especially when equipped with the brand’s highly skilled artisans and underpinned by LVMH. (Proenza Schouler counted a number of investors over the years, from Valentino to Andrew Rosen and, most recently, Mudrick Capital Management.) Like Anderson, the designers also know how to navigate the red carpet, having dressed everyone from Brie Larson (2024 Met Gala) to Beyoncé (2015 Grammys) in Proenza for more than 20 years.

‘Jack and Lazaro’s vision and creativity are a perfect match for the codes of the house that we have built,” Loewe chief executive officer Pascale Lepoivre said in Monday’s statement.

“To us, this new chapter is an opportunity to continue to do what we love doing but on a larger scale,” McCollough and Hernandez add. “It allows us to connect with a broader global audience, have the resources to fuel our creativity, and on a personal level, an opportunity to learn and to continue to push ourselves into new and unknown realms, including moving to Paris, which is something we are really looking forward to. It’s surreal to think that we started this journey when we were 21 years old. Now, with the experience we’ve gained and the same energy and curiosity that drove us back then, we’re ready for what will surely be a defining chapter in our lives.”

Thursday, March 20, 2025

Paris Fashion Week A/W´25

Paris Fashion Week A/W 2025 took centre stage in the French capital this week, featuring a jam-packed lineup of runway presentations from some of the industry's biggest names. Among the highlights were showcases from Dior, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Chanel, and Givenchy—the latter drawing particular attention as it marked the highly anticipated debut of former Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton.

¨Burton’s inaugural collection for the esteemed Parisian fashion house debuted on Friday morning, with her designs taking cues from a long-lost archive of patterns created by the brand’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy. She reinterpreted these classic elements to suit the contemporary woman, explaining, ‘I want to explore every aspect of what it means to be a modern woman—strength, sensitivity, emotional intelligence, empowerment, and sensuality. It’s all part of the story.’¨ - Charles Daniel McDonald

Elsewhere, Wednesday evening saw Haider Ackermann step into his new role at Tom Ford, having taken over from Peter Hawkings earlier this year. That same night, Julian Klausner unveiled his first collection as creative director for Dries Van Noten at the iconic Opéra Garnier. Meanwhile, Alessandro Michele presented his second ready-to-wear collection for Valentino in a striking, surreal red-hued setting reminiscent of a ‘public bathroom’. However, fans eager to see Matthieu Blazy at Chanel will need to be patient, as his official debut won’t take place until September.

The schedule also made room for emerging talent, with LVMH Prize winners Duran Lantink and Hodakova making an impression. As always, the influential contingent of Japanese designers—including Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, and Noir Kei Ninomiya—offered collections that challenged conventions and provoked thought.

DIOR


Metamorphosis lay at the heart of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest Dior collection, a theme brought to life through an immersive set designed by experimental American theatre director Robert Wilson. His symbolic recreation of the dawn of time—with jagged ice formations rising from the floor and a pterodactyl soaring overhead—offered a dramatic backdrop for Chiuri’s own exploration of transformation.

The collection itself began with something fundamental—the white shirt, a garment Chiuri linked to Gianfranco Ferré, who helmed Dior in the late 1980s and early 1990s and served as a key reference. From this foundation, she ventured into historical dress codes, reimagining them through a modern lens. The classic shirt appeared layered under corseted bodices, exaggerated with cascading ruffled cuffs, or elongated in ways that subtly echoed the Elizabethan-inspired frock coats, pearl-ruff necklaces, and crinoline gowns seen elsewhere. Virginia Woolf’s Orlando—with its time-travelling, gender-fluid protagonist—was another influence, reinforcing the idea of fluidity between past and future, femininity and strength.

Contrasts played a defining role: structured black leather pieces were softened by playful faux-ermine stoles, while slouchy, parka-style outerwear ensured the collection remained contemporary rather than costume-like. Chiuri also paid homage to the house’s more recent history, reviving the John Galliano-era J’Adore Dior T-shirt, this time updated with delicate lace appliqué. ‘A femininity that imagines possible futures by blending echoes of the past,’ she described.

With this collection, Chiuri continued to weave together heritage and evolution, proving once again that reinvention lies at the core of Dior’s enduring appeal.

MIU MIU


Earlier this month in Milan, Miuccia Prada—working alongside Raf Simons—unveiled Prada’s A/W 2025 collection, titled Raw Glamour. ‘We asked ourselves—what defines femininity? What is feminine beauty?’ she reflected at the time, presenting a vision of slightly unkempt elegance that challenged conventional standards of beauty. At Miu Miu, where Prada worked solo, she extended this exploration of womanhood, drawing on iconic elements of feminine dress—fur stoles, pointed bras, handbags, and heels—to question their contemporary relevance. ‘These emblems of femininity—bras, furs, brooches—have always existed. Do they still matter today? Do they empower us?’ she mused.

The collection exuded a sense of bourgeois Milanese sophistication. Oversized coats were draped nonchalantly, a ‘fur’ stole slung over the arm, a structured handbag resting in the crook of the elbow. Slouchy brown loafers were paired with fine ribbed socks, while sharply tailored blazers were adorned with symmetrical brooches on either side of the chest. ‘I don’t see these as clichés,’ Prada insisted backstage. Yet, she presented them in an intentionally subversive way—pointed bra tops exaggeratedly protruded from beneath soft, pastel-hued knitwear, while jackets featured unconventional tailoring, with oddly folded lapels, dramatically off-shoulder cuts, or cropped hems that appeared abruptly sliced.

Set against a dreamlike backdrop of yellow moiré, the show featured an eclectic cast, including actress Sarah Paulson and musician Cortisa Star. In Prada’s hands, these traditional symbols of femininity were reframed as expressions of strength and autonomy—her latest reimagining of womanhood in a world of shifting perceptions. ‘In these challenging times, we need femininity to uplift us,’ she concluded.

TOM FORD


Haider Ackermann made a bold and assured debut at Tom Ford, channelling the seductive energy that he sees as intrinsic to the brand’s DNA. ‘I hope I seduced you all,’ he quipped backstage, following a show that seamlessly fused the uninhibited glamour synonymous with the house—established in 2005 after its founder’s departure from Gucci—with his own signature aesthetic: a louche, darkly romantic sophistication. Known for his work at his now-defunct eponymous label and his brief tenure at Berluti, Ackermann brought his refined sensibility to both men’s and womenswear, striking a balance between sharp tailoring and fluid sensuality.

The collection moved effortlessly from sleek, predominantly black leather daywear to dramatic eveningwear, rendered in the bold, painterly hues that have become an Ackermann hallmark. A sinuous yellow gown was daringly lifted above the hip on one side, while a striking green satin dress was cut seductively open at the back—an unmistakably Haider-esque touch. Elsewhere, a lilac gown shimmered with cascading tassels, catching the light with every movement. For men, precision-cut tailoring was imbued with subtle hints of sparkle, a nod to the more overt opulence found elsewhere in the collection.

The show closed to a standing ovation, with an audience of Ackermann’s close friends and supporters celebrating his vision. Adding to the moment, Tom Ford himself offered his endorsement with a warm embrace—a fitting seal of approval for the brand’s next chapter under Ackermann’s confident direction.

CHANEL


A striking installation by Canadian designer Willo Perron served as the backdrop for Chanel’s A/W 2025 collection—an unfurled black ribbon, a timeless motif of the house. Created by Chanel’s Creation Studio as they await the arrival of Matthieu Blazy—formerly of Bottega Veneta, whose first collection will debut in September—the collection aimed to challenge perceptions through unexpected proportions and visual illusions.

Reinterpreting Chanel’s signature elements in inventive ways, the collection played with scale and trompe l’oeil techniques. Classic motifs such as pearls, bows, ribbons, quilted handbags, and tweed suits were transformed: oversized pearl necklaces doubled as handbags, shimmering bows appeared almost painted onto garments, and a deconstructed take on the traditional three-piece suit saw a cropped jacket, wrap skirt, and wide-leg trousers layered together in an unconventional ensemble. The concept of illusion extended to denim-look degradé shirts and jeans, crafted from printed chiffon, while sheer tulle overlays on structured jackets and dresses created an ethereal, almost ghostly effect.

The result was a collection that felt both whimsically surreal and unmistakably Chanel—an intriguing transition piece before Blazy’s eagerly awaited ready-to-wear debut next season.

BALENCIAGA


Demna’s latest collection for Balenciaga unfolded on a dimly lit, maze-like runway with multiple points of entry and exit—a deliberate metaphor for the immersive, sometimes disorienting, nature of the creative process. The Georgian designer, now firmly established in his subversive approach to wardrobe staples, remained resolute in his vision, pushing forward with clarity and conviction. Attendees, all seated in the front row for an intimate viewing experience, were presented with what Demna described as a study of standard dress codes—how traditional fits and garments can be subtly reshaped within a fashion context… a sociological observation of the wardrobe.

This translated into a collection that revisited and refined many of Demna’s signature elements. The looks oscillated between sharply structured corporate wear, deconstructed sportswear—including a collaboration with Puma—and deliberately dishevelled eveningwear, where lace and polka-dot dresses were artfully ruched to expose the leg. It was a collection rooted in precision, what Demna called the pursuit of the golden ratio—a reconsideration of conventional forms through a meticulous balancing act.

Standout pieces included puffer jackets with plush, fur-lined hoods, their quilting ingeniously sculpted to mimic the shape of a corset or bodice, and tailoring that featured deep, inlaid creases, subtly distorting familiar silhouettes. The collection served as yet another testament to Demna’s innate ability to reinterpret everyday garments, rendering them both provocative and profoundly contemporary.

LOUIS VUITTON


In an unusually intimate presentation for the house, Nicolas Ghesquière unveiled Louis Vuitton’s A/W 2025 collection to an audience of just 400 guests. The show took place at L’Étoile du Nord, the headquarters of France’s national railway, situated next to the bustling Gare du Nord. ‘I wanted to recreate the energy of a Parisian train station—where brief encounters weave together a tapestry of stories,’ Ghesquière explained. The set, designed by Es Devlin, featured rows of brightly coloured metal seating—an uncanny take on the benches found in waiting areas and platforms—while shadowy film projections of travellers in motion flickered across the building’s upper windows.

Reflecting this transient world, the collection embodied a cast of characters one might cross paths with in a railway terminal, reimagined through Ghesquière’s signature postmodern lens. Vivid raincoats and sporty anoraks—some emblazoned with the Louis Vuitton logo—were juxtaposed with polished trench coats and elegant pussy-bow blouses. Futuristic ‘uniforms’ referenced those of train conductors and attendants, while touches of vintage glamour—turbans, opulent fur coats, and frothy ruffled dresses—evoked what Ghesquière described as ‘the romance and allure of 19th-century rail travel, a world of adventure and enchantment.’

Accessories, a house specialty, were a standout feature: slouchy leather holdalls, violin and hat cases, blanket bags, and structured vanity boxes all made an appearance. Meanwhile, Kraftwerk’s 1977 Trans-Europe Express album cover was cleverly woven throughout as a recurring motif.

‘The thrill of discovery, the rush of travel,’ Ghesquière mused, as models took their final positions on the atrium’s balconies, embodying both the anticipation of departure and the comfort of return.

COMME DES GARÇONS


Rei Kawakubo’s latest collection was nothing short of a statement of defiance. ‘Lately, it feels as though big business, mass culture, and global systems may not be as great as they seem,’ she declared in a succinct message accompanying her A/W 2025 show, which unfolded in Paris on Saturday afternoon. ‘There is great strength in small. Small can be mighty.’

She is living proof of this philosophy. Now over 50 years since founding Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1973, Kawakubo continues to offer a rebellious alternative to mainstream luxury fashion. Her label remains independent, supporting a close-knit network of designers—including Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya—while fostering emerging talent, such as the designers behind Vaquera, who were present at the show.

This season, the collection’s opening felt like a pointed critique of corporate uniformity. Classic tailoring fabrics—Prince of Wales checks, pinstripes—were dismantled and reworked into Kawakubo’s signature sculptural silhouettes, distorting the conventions of power dressing. With that statement made, the collection transitioned into an exploration of femininity, incorporating ruffles, pleats, and floral motifs—most strikingly in a tartan dress lined with three-dimensional blooms, which the model held open mid-walk to reveal its hidden embellishments. Rich textures, from velvet to satin, added further layers of depth and contrast.

As always, Kawakubo’s approach felt like an intuitive, free-flowing conversation of ideas. At 82, she remains one of fashion’s most uncompromising and independent voices, proving that true creative freedom exists outside of convention—and beyond the reach of corporate influence.

VALENTINO


For his second ready-to-wear collection at Valentino, Alessandro Michele infused the show with his signature sense of theatricality. Staged at Paris’ Institut du Monde Arabe, the presentation unfolded within a strikingly unconventional set—an expansive red-hued space resembling a surrealist interpretation of a public restroom. Encircling the room were cubicles, complete with sinks and mirrors, creating a dreamlike yet cinematic atmosphere. The concept, according to Michele, explored ‘the interplay between public and private, surface and depth,’ with the designer describing the space as having a Lynchian quality. Titled Le Méta-Théâtre des Intimités, the collection reflected on intimacy as a form of performance—before the models stepped out from behind the swinging cubicle doors, only their feet were visible beneath, as if they were standing bare.

This theatrical prelude set the tone for a collection that pulsed with sensuality. Delicate lace bodysuits were layered with narrow satin bras, while fluid 1970s-inspired dresses in bold clashing hues of red and pink exuded a hedonistic allure. Voluminous fur coats, nonchalantly draped over the shoulders, evoked an effortless glamour. While Michele’s signature maximalism remained intact, this season revealed a sharper focus, stripping back some of last season’s ornate embellishments in favour of a more assertive take on luxury.

The show’s setting heightened the sense of intrigue—models stalked the space, adjusting their looks in the mirrors above the sinks before vanishing once more into the cubicles. What happened behind those doors, and with whom, was left to the imagination. ‘The most profound intimacy is theatre,’ Michele mused—a sentiment echoed in his seductive and immersive spectacle.

MCQUEEN


For his third collection at Alexander McQueen, Irish designer Seán McGirr once again drew inspiration from the streets of London—his adopted home since his student days at Central Saint Martins in the early 2010s. This season, however, his focus shifted to a more historical lens, particularly the shadowy world of Victorian London, taking cues from Charles Dickens’ Night Walks and imagining a nocturnal dandy who roams the streets until dawn.

This vision translated into designs rich with historical references: high, ruffled collars, flowing capes, and sharply sculpted waistlines evoked the past, while elongated, winklepicker-style footwear distorted the silhouette with an almost surrealist edge. Continuing the crystallised embellishments seen in last season’s finale, the collection leaned heavily into ornamentation—bejewelled facemasks, intricate surface detailing on leather jackets and dresses, and opulent gilded embroidery adorning the final frock coat.

Another key influence was Oscar Wilde, a literary icon McGirr has admired since his youth and a figure synonymous with dandyism. ‘To me, dandyism is the ultimate form of adornment—intensely personal, playful, and subversive. It challenges ideas of identity, character, idealism, and gender,’ he explained. ‘I wanted to explore how the dandy’s radical spirit remains relevant today.’

Bridging past and present, McGirr also spent more time in the McQueen archives, revisiting the house’s signature hourglass tailoring. ‘McQueen has always been about the waist... I wanted to reinterpret that silhouette in a way that speaks to today’s world.’ The result was a collection that paid homage to tradition while reworking it with a modern, provocative edge—an exploration of identity, self-expression, and the enduring allure of the dandy.

ISSEY MIYAKE


Since the late 1980s, Austrian artist Erwin Wurm has invited people to momentarily become sculptures, instructing them to balance or interact with everyday objects—buckets, chairs, stacks of oranges—in unexpected ways. His One Minute Sculptures blur the line between art and participation, turning viewers into living works of art, however fleetingly. On Friday afternoon in Paris, Wurm’s latest iteration of the project served as the backdrop for Issey Miyake’s A/W 2025 show. Held at the Carrousel du Louvre, performers engaged with the garments, manipulating them into sculptural, body-like shapes—a fitting reflection of the Japanese label’s long-standing fascination with movement, fabric, and transformation.

Titled [N]either [N]or, the collection saw head designer Satoshi Kondo draw inspiration from the ambiguity and in-betweenness of Wurm’s art. Kondo envisioned clothing that encouraged individual interpretation—garments that could be worn in multiple ways, inviting the wearer to explore new possibilities. This playful ethos ran throughout: trompe l’oeil prints of Miyake knitwear adorned fluid, pleated gowns; oversized paper bags were reimagined as vibrant strappy tops; and innovative heat-pressed knits created structured, almost paper-cut silhouettes. The collection’s bold use of colour mirrored the saturated hues found in Wurm’s photographs, reinforcing a sense of joy and experimentation. Kondo’s recent collections have reinforced his mastery of balancing spontaneity with precision. While his designs appear effortless, they are the result of extensive fabric research and meticulous craftsmanship, often refined over years. With [N]either [N]or, Kondo once again proved that the most exciting fashion exists in the spaces between convention and discovery.

HERMES


Stepping into the dimly lit Hermès show space, guests were met with an unexpected sensation underfoot—a surface that felt almost impossibly plush. As eyes adjusted, it became clear that the spiralling runway was layered with soft soil, setting the tone for a collection that embodied strength and resilience. Nadège Vanhée, now a decade into her tenure at the house, eschewed a fixed theme in favour of a mood: ‘sculptural, resilient, seductive… [the woman] moves forward, never looks back. She has everything she needs.’

This translated into a procession of models clad predominantly in leather, striding with purpose in sturdy riding boots and high-heeled brogues— the latter’s perforated detailing echoed in leather piping that traced the contours of sculpted dresses and tailored mini shorts. Leather, a material deeply embedded in Hermès’ heritage, remained central throughout. From supple, reversible overcoats to a stripped-down take on the biker jacket and razor-sharp tailoring, every piece spoke to the house’s unparalleled mastery of craftsmanship. A ribbed wool and leather dress, elegantly cut to follow the body’s lines, added a note of understated sensuality.

Balancing everyday wearability with an undeniable allure, the collection marked another compelling chapter in Vanhée’s ongoing exploration of femininity at Hermès. Now in her tenth year, her vision of the modern Hermès woman—poised, self-assured, and effortlessly luxurious—feels more desirable than ever.

GIVENCHY


Sarah Burton’s debut collection for Givenchy was born from an extraordinary discovery—a hidden archive of pattern pieces, tucked away in brown envelopes behind a wall at the former Givenchy maison on Avenue de Vigny. Unearthed during a recent renovation, these designs, created by Hubert de Givenchy himself, date back to 1952, the year he founded the house. For Burton—renowned for her masterful approach to cut and construction—this unexpected find became the foundation for an exploration of contemporary womanhood, which unfolded at the Givenchy salon on Avenue Georges V on Friday morning. ‘My instinct is always to return to pattern-cutting, to craftsmanship,’ she explained. Each garment was meticulously fitted on the body at least three times before it made its way down the runway. ‘To cut, shape, and refine proportions—it’s how I work, how I think, and what I want to do.’

This dedication to precision resulted in a collection that prioritised clarity over theatrics—though moments of glamour and romance were woven throughout. ‘I want to address every aspect of modern womanhood,’ Burton said. ‘Strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, empowerment, and sensuality—it’s all part of the conversation.’ Sharp tailoring cinched at the waist and flared at the shoulder, its raw edges intentionally left unfinished to evoke the construction process. Trapeze-shaped overcoats, supple leather jackets, and relaxed shirts offered a sense of ease, while eveningwear ranged from intricately embroidered opera coats tied with dramatic obi-style bows to voluminous layers of lemon-yellow tulle and ballet-inspired skirts. Tuxedo tailoring was given an unexpected twist—either sliced at the waist or reversed entirely—while playful surrealist touches saw garments constructed from makeup powder cases and tangled strands of jewellery.

Though resolutely modern in its execution, the collection remained deeply connected to Givenchy’s legacy. In the sunlit salon, historically home to the house’s couture atelier, guests sat on symbolic stacks of pattern pieces—an echo of those unearthed at Avenue de Vigny. ‘To move forward, you must first return to the beginning,’ Burton reflected. ‘For me, that means the atelier. It is the heart and soul of Givenchy.’

SCHIAPARELLI


What if we woke up tomorrow to a world without men? How would women dress? These speculative musings—often the subject of lighthearted dinner table debates—became the foundation for Daniel Roseberry’s striking A/W 2025 collection for Schiaparelli, presented in Paris. ‘The women I know rarely, if ever, dress for men… When they do, it’s for other women. It’s their admiration that truly matters,’ he reflected. Imagining a world where women inherited the earth, Roseberry reinterpreted masculine archetypes through a distinctly feminine lens.

Titled Lone Star, the collection built upon the surreal glamour of his January couture show, merging old Hollywood tailoring with Western influences—an homage to both cinematic icons and Roseberry’s Texas roots. The result was a compelling balance between power and elegance. Figures swathed in sumptuous velvets, voluminous furs, and liquid satins exuded confidence, while silhouettes played with extremes: sleek, feline-like second-skin gowns contrasted with demure oversized 1940s suiting, and cinched-waist, star-studded ensembles radiated red-carpet opulence. Elements of Southern charm emerged in bow-legged denim, cowboy boots, leather fringing, and low-slung belts, all infused with Schiaparelli’s signature gilded embellishments. The collection, he noted, was a tribute to the formidable women in his life.

In a letter to attendees, Roseberry reflected on the modern search for meaning in an era dominated by social media. ‘Many of us are exhausted by living through a screen,’ he wrote. ‘I’ve spent the past few months talking less and listening more. I wanted to create something that inspires. The women I know are lone stars—one of a kind, irreplaceable. I hope they, and all women, see themselves in these clothes.’

RICK OWENS


Rick Owens returned to the cavernous interiors of Paris’s Palais de Tokyo—a longtime venue for his boundary-pushing presentations—for his latest womenswear collection, titled Concordians. Sharing its name with his menswear show from earlier this year, the title nods to Concordia, a small industrial town near Venice where Owens has been producing the majority of his collections for over two decades.

His connection to the town runs deep. Over the years, he has lived in various places there—from a couch in his office to what he describes as a ‘serial killer hotel’, and now, finally, his own apartment. The town’s unremarkable landscape has become an integral part of his creative process, fostering what he calls a ‘studious isolation… almost bleakness’. Yet, it is precisely this self-imposed solitude that enables Owens and his team to craft something ‘weird and wonderful’.

That pursuit was fully realised in this collection, which exuded an Owensian take on subversive glamour. Highlights included chain-linked laser-cut leather dresses—crafted in collaboration with Parisian designer Victor Clavelly—that clung to the body like organic scales or feathers, as well as imposing, exaggerated-shoulder overcoats in supple wool and leather. A continuation of his menswear explorations, megacrust denim made a striking return—its surface layered with bronze foil and wax, creating a richly textured, almost otherworldly effect. ‘I want to rely on fewer things but push them to a supernatural level,’ Owens remarked following his menswear show, and here, he maintained that ethos—distilling his signature aesthetic through an elevated focus on materiality and craftsmanship.

The show’s soundtrack provided another nostalgic nod to the designer’s roots. Iggy Pop’s “Mass Production”, which played at Owens’ debut presentation 23 years ago, made a triumphant return. ‘We won’t be able to use it on YouTube,’ he admitted, ‘but it remains a song that, for me, embodies the yearning for the weird and wonderful—just as much now as it did back then.’

DRIES VAN NOTEN


Belgian designer Julian Klausner marked the beginning of a new chapter at Dries Van Noten. Taking over from the legendary founder, who stepped down last June, Klausner’s arrival was more about evolution than upheaval. Having been part of the house since 2018, and with Van Noten’s full blessing, his debut at the Opéra Garnier served as a seamless bridge between past and future.

The setting itself hinted at his inspiration: Klausner envisioned his muse as a woman rushing through the opulent opera house, instinctively gathering fabrics and wrapping them around her body, securing them with shoelaces. This sense of improvisation was reflected in the collection’s silhouettes—halterneck tops seemingly assembled from silk scarves, dresses that twisted and draped as if spontaneously thrown on. Luxurious fabrics, often juxtaposed in unexpected combinations, nodded to Van Noten’s renowned mastery of print and texture. But Klausner introduced a bolder eclecticism, layering garments with hundreds of ornate curtain ties or fusing paillettes, animal prints, checks, and brocade into dynamic collages.

‘Looking back, I realised I created this collection in a deeply instinctive way,’ he reflected post-show. ‘I gravitated toward things I’ve always loved. I thought about how my first encounter with fashion was as a child, playing in a costume box—just grabbing pieces that excited me, mixing them freely. Dries wanted me to feel that same sense of freedom in designing alone.’

With this debut, Klausner signalled a thoughtful transition—one that respects the house’s DNA while injecting a fresh spontaneity, setting the stage for an exciting new era at Dries Van Noten.

SAINT LAURENT


Anthony Vaccarello described his striking A/W 2025 collection for Saint Laurent as embodying a ‘simplicity of silhouette – as if sketched with just a few pencil strokes.’ This season, Saint Laurent took over the prestigious closing slot at Paris Fashion Week, replacing Louis Vuitton. Now renowned for his ability to craft visually arresting spectacles—his tenure defined by sleek, architectural runway settings—Vaccarello staged the show within what he called ‘a grand onyx oval,’ a glossy black catwalk encircled by slabs of raw mineral rock.

The collection itself was a study in refinement, focusing on the repeated exploration of a single silhouette. It began with sharply structured designs featuring strong shoulders and elevated necklines—achieved not through padding but through masterful tailoring—before transitioning into voluminous, full-skirted gowns that, despite their opulence, evoked the effortless fluidity of nightdresses or slips. ‘I was drawn to the idea of elasticity and movement, creating a sense of freedom,’ he explained.

Sumptuous fabrics and rich hues brought depth to these silhouettes, from delicate guipure lace and luxurious satin to an innovative, almost plastic-like animal print, produced by immersing printed cigaline silk in resin. The result was a mesmerising finale that captivated the audience, cementing Saint Laurent’s place as one of the week’s most memorable moments.

¨Paris Fashion Week once again proved why it remains the epicentre of global fashion, where heritage meets innovation and artistry knows no bounds. This season, an array of visionary designers captivated audiences with their bold interpretations and redefinitions of style. Schiaparelli continued to blur the lines between fashion and surrealist art, while Rick Owens brought his signature dystopian drama, contrasting with Chanel’s timeless sophistication. Dior reimagined femininity with a modern edge, and Saint Laurent exuded effortless Parisian cool.¨ - Charles Daniel McDonald

On the avant-garde front, Comme des Garçons played with exaggerated silhouettes and theatrical storytelling, while Issey Miyake celebrated movement and fluidity. Alexander McQueen paid homage to its rebellious roots with structured tailoring, and Dries Van Noten embraced experimental textures. Louis Vuitton fused heritage with futuristic elements, and Valentino brought a romantic opulence to the stage. As the curtain falls on another unforgettable season, one thing is certain—Paris remains the unrivalled heart of fashion, setting the course for the industry’s future while honouring its past.

Monday, March 17, 2025

Jonathan Anderson Exits Loewe

After an 11-year run, Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe. The house said on Monday it experienced “exceptional growth” under his direction and, according to chief executive officer Pascale Lepoivre, “has risen to new heights with international recognition”.

“While reflecting on the last 11 years, I have been lucky enough to be surrounded by people with the imagination, the skills, the tenacity and the resourcefulness to find a way to say ‘yes’ to all my wildly ambitious ideas,” Anderson said in a statement. “While my chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come, and I will look on with pride, watching it continue to grow, the amazing Spanish brand I once called home.”

Sidney Toledano, adviser to LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault, considers Anderson “to be amongst the very best”.

“What he has contributed to Loewe goes beyond creativity. He has built a rich and eclectic world with strong foundations in craft which will enable the house to thrive long after his departure,” Toledano said.

The announcement comes after Loewe’s co-ed presentation took place on 10 March. “If the Loewe show was sorely missed in Paris this season, the lasting impression of walking through this exhibition was of just how much fun Anderson has had,” wrote Vogue’s Sarah Mower. Since the day before his presentation, Anderson has shared a number of retrospective posts on his personal Instagram account that many read as a goodbye to Loewe.


At Loewe’s standout show during Paris Fashion Week last September, Anderson received a standing ovation from many of his peers (Sarah Burton, Pieter Mulier, Adrian Appiolaza, Nicolas Di Felice and Kris Van Assche all attended) as well as Delphine Arnault and actors Daniel Craig, Josh O’Connor, Greta Lee, Ayo Edebiri and Rob Lowe). The set for the show featured a sculpture by Tracey Emin – a pole with a bird perched on top. According to the press release, the bird is “caught in a moment of pause, she encourages us to imagine imminent flight, and ultimately its freedom”.

The Northern Irish designer was appointed creative director of the LVMH-owned Spanish luxury house in September 2013. Anderson created his namesake brand JW Anderson in 2008 and caught the attention of Sophie Brocart, senior vice president of LVMH fashion ventures at the time – notably with his autumn/winter 2013 menswear collection. It was the founding collection of his “shared wardrobe” approach, based on the idea that men could pick and choose from women’s wardrobes, just as women have long been able to do from those of men’s.

LVMH took a minority stake in the brand in 2013. At the same time, Loewe was seeking its next creative director following the departure of Stuart Vevers. Then LVMH Fashion Group CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel made a bold move: he entrusted the then-29-year-old designer with the creative direction of Loewe. Anderson’s appointment was accompanied by organisational changes: the design studio was moved from Madrid to Paris, while the JW Anderson brand remained based in London.

Loewe, a leather goods brand founded in 1846 and bought by LVMH in 1996, underwent a significant transformation that paid off. Under Anderson’s tenure, sales went from €230 million in 2014 to €1.07 billion in 2024, according to Morgan Stanley estimates. Ready-to-wear took off – Anderson’s collections were experimental, clean, but at the same time, made for daily life. Meanwhile, leather goods went from strength to strength; he notably created in 2015 the Puzzle bag, which became a staple. He kept craftsmanship at the centre and created the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize in 2016 to support and give visibility to vanishing crafts.

The charismatic, hard-working designer has never ceased to innovate and amaze, having collaborated, among others, with Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, Ibiza’s famous store Paula’s on a collection called Paula’s Ibiza and Swiss running brand On.

He is a 360-degree designer with a precise vision for brand building. Loewe campaigns starring Maggie Smith, Jamie Dornan and Daniel Craig always got people talking. “There’s a quirkiness and great consistency to them,” says Serge Carreira, associate professor at Sciences Po Paris. Anderson also collaborated with director Luca Guadagnino, having designed costumes for his films Challengers and Queer. “The brand codes that he has created, rooted in craft, will live on as his legacy,” Lepoivre said.

Friday, March 14, 2025

Demna Is Gucci’s New Creative Director

Fashion’s biggest question has, at last, found its answer: Gucci’s new artistic director is Demna. Balenciaga’s creative director since 2015, Demna was today announced as the new creative lead at Gucci in a statement from Kering Group, parent to both houses. “His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs,” said Kering’s chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault.

The 43-year-old Georgian-born designer will oversee his final couture show at Balenciaga on 6 July before decamping to Italy’s largest luxury house, where he will work in partnership with Gucci CEO Stefano Cantino. Demna’s successor at Balenciaga will be named in due course, Kering indicated.

“I am truly excited to join the Gucci family,” Demna said in the release. “It is an honour to contribute to a house that I deeply respect and have long admired. I look forward to writing together with Stefano and the whole team a new chapter of Gucci’s amazing story.”

Demna prefaced that new chapter when in 2021 he had his first creative interaction with Gucci. That year Demna granted Gucci’s then creative lead, Alessandro Michele, his blessing to creatively appropriate Balenciaga’s silhouettes and codes for Gucci’s “Hacker Project”: Balenciaga graphics appeared on canonical Gucci accessories such as the Jackie bag, while Michele applied his time-traveller bedazzlement to Demna’s broodingly contemporary silhouettes.

Now Demna is charged with shaping his own vision of Gucci. A decade ago at Balenciaga, he was asked to adapt and evolve the subversively streetwise and witty aesthetic dialect he first enunciated with Vetements in 2014. Contemporary estimates put Balenciaga’s revenues at approximately €200 million during his first year there (Kering does not specify its annual revenue). In 2021, HSBC estimated that figure had risen to €1.76 billion.

Demna, who in 2021 ceased using the surname Gvasalia, is without question one of the most original, innovative and influential designers of our time. Gucci, meanwhile, is Italy’s largest luxury fashion house by revenue. Despite a slump from its €10.5 billion peak in 2022, in 2024 it reported revenues of €7.65 billion, a sum more than double the €3.56 billion reported by Prada, financially its closest fellow Italian competitor.

The challenge (and adventure) facing Demna at Gucci starts with deciding how to integrate the house’s codes and spirit to shape a freshly accented manifestation of his design language. Between Vetements’s foundation and his most recent show at Balenciaga, Demna has always paid as much attention to the streets as he has to fashion’s rigmarole of celebrity and status. This democratic and socially pragmatic impulse should be to his advantage at a house built on a foundation of small leather goods, and which enjoys a far broader reach than the house he is now preparing to exit.

Gucci’s chaotically human backstory might also prove a richly dramatic seam of material. And while it has not been communicated to what extent Demna will be based at Gucci’s recently established and expanded Milan studios, it seems likely that he will look to bring a freshly global outlook as only the second non-Italian to lead design at the brand since the days of Tom Ford’s transformational part in its story.

How Demna came to Gucci

Prior to today’s announcement, Kering’s deputy CEO in charge of brand development, Francesca Bellettini, hosted a briefing meeting alongside Cantino to share the story behind Demna’s appointment. While the meeting was declared off the record, they retrospectively consented to the below to be included in this report.

Cantino revealed that Demna was first approached several months ago. Bellettini added: “We went out for dinner. I said, ‘We would really love to talk about this opportunity’. And after a second of thinking he was very excited, and said: ‘Yes! I have it in my mind – let me put together the project for you. He worked on that, and when Stefano and I received it for the first time, we were both [like], ‘Let’s accelerate!’”

Although still formally engaged by Balenciaga, Demna has already travelled with Cantino to Florence to commence his immersion within Gucci’s immaculately kept archive. During the trip, “I kept getting incredible messages from both of them,” said Bellettini. She added of Gucci: “It’s a company which, whenever you light up that spark of creativity and of artistic vision, performs.”

The power of Demna’s creative spark is not open to debate. Yet there is one potential pitfall when a designer whose aesthetic is so widely known and strongly defined moves from one house to another. This is that, unless redefined and adapted to its new milieu, the relocated design sensibility seems like a decontextualised repetition. Bellettini said: “To your point, after 10 years, he’s ready to change and to have a new creative challenge. He’s really eclectic in his creativity.”


Creating the context for that creativity at Gucci has been, the executives said, their recent priority. Following Michele’s departure in 2022, the brand has been engaged on a structural renovation designed to futureproof it. This, they intend, will equip Gucci to sustain growth under Demna’s forthcoming artistic direction. Cantino said that the renovation was focused on brand elevation, quality and communication, while Bellettini added that the scale and speed of supply, as well as the structure and staffing of teams had also been subject to root-and-branch reform. She added: “We went after a growth that was so fast. As a CEO you need to control growth: you cannot just let it explode in your hands without fixing the machine that is behind it. So we wanted to refocus the company on that machine; on the quality of the product and on the time of delivery.”

Discussing the contribution of Sabato De Sarno, the successor to Michele who exited the brand this year, Bellettini said: “Immense. If we were able to do this over these two years, it was because we had Sabato. We had to work on the fundamentals, he was the designer to work on them, and I can only say good things about him.”
Ups and downs

There is another factor that makes Demna and Gucci compatible: thanks to the shared symmetry of ups and downs in their recent fortunes, they are both in some respects already in a similar place.

In December 2015, Demna was handed creative control of Balenciaga, shortly after Gucci appointed Alessandro Michele to the equivalent position that same year. Both houses enjoyed unprecedented levels of critical acclaim and financial growth under the two men until, in 2022, both Gucci and Demna hit significant bumps in their respective roads.

At Gucci, revenue growth had slowed (in retrospect, a luxury problem). It is understood that Michele disagreed with the house’s then-management team’s insistence upon a shift in his creative direction: he departed in November of that year. After some time to regroup, Kering and Gucci then began the process of rebuilding that led to today’s news. As Bellettini put it: “Gucci has two souls: it has the heritage and it needs to have the fashionability… However, it is not enough to inject creativity if the product does not stand for the positioning of Gucci.”

That same month, Balenciaga became embroiled in a controversy that compromised Demna’s previously unimpeachable record not only as a designer for his times, but also a champion of just political and environmental causes. Two ill-considered Balenciaga campaigns contained a series of negatively ambiguous and unwittingly disturbing, even sinister, details. The multiple acts of creative carelessness and lack of oversight that enabled these campaigns to be signed off were widely – and wildly – conflated, then decried as the conscious product of Demna’s design.

After some poorly executed crisis management, the house and its designer apologised, however, the damage was done: Demna’s previously unchecked upward arc took a reputational hit. While he has emerged from the controversy, and since presented some of his best Balenciaga shows and collections, it was a painful episode.

Wrong gossip, right result

Ever since Sabato De Sarno’s exit on 6 February (and in some unseemly cases even before), there has been widespread speculation and rumour-mongering about the identity of his successor. Many names were mooted, and even published, during an orgy of often wildly wrong and borderline toxic gossip that has convulsed fashion during a period of wider industry change.

At the briefing, Bellettini and Cantino smiled when asked about the rumours regarding Gucci – to which a succession of names, most consistently that of Hedi Slimane, have been both confidently and completely incorrectly applied.

“To be honest, [it has been] very useful!” said Bellettini. Diplomatically, she and Cantino implied that the variety of the (wrongly) linked designer names were an educational form of market research. And doubtless the scrutiny focused elsewhere also afforded them and Demna space to marinate their plans for Gucci’s future. She added her belief that the announcement of Demna’s renewed contract at Balenciaga last November – which in truth was drafted to last just long enough to take him to his end-date following July’s couture show – had put even fashion’s most rabid tattlers off the scent.

Four days ago, speaking after his last-ever Balenciaga ready-to-wear show, Demna was quoted as saying: “Fashion has become this giant rumour mill, which is fun, because people like a guessing game. But I think in that fog of rumpus, what is important? Sometimes I read more about rumours than what we really want from fashion now. Does it make any sense? I’m staying with fashion forever.”

Demna’s declaration of fidelity to fashion can now be applied to Gucci. In retrospect, some of the “standard” Balenciaga collection presented on Sunday can be read as a coded gesture of farewell to the house. Touching on his Balenciaga archetypes spanning the banal to the bizarre, the clothes were shown in a claustrophobic corporate maze. Today’s revelation of his Gucci elevation suddenly brings him far closer to the centre of fashion’s labyrinth.

Speaking to reporters on Sunday, Demna concluded: “Maybe what I want to do now is just make great clothes for my customer, for someone who likes what I do and relates to that aesthetic, and who understands clothes through wearing them, not speculating about them.”

Donatella Versace Steps Down As Versace’s Creative Director

Dario Vitale is the new creative director at Versace, the house announced today. The news marks a historic transition at the Italian house. Vitale’s debut collection will be the first in its 47-year history not creatively overseen by either Gianni or Donatella Versace.

That bloodline of connection between Versace and the Versaces is not entirely cut, however: simultaneous to announcing Vitale’s appointment, the house stated that Donatella will continue to act as its embodiment. Her title will change to chief brand ambassador.

“Championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me. I am thrilled that Dario Vitale will be joining us, and excited to see Versace through new eyes. I want to thank my incredible design team and all the employees at Versace that I have had the privilege of working with for over three decades. It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni’s legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity. In my new role as chief brand ambassador, I will remain Versace’s most passionate supporter. Versace is in my DNA and always in my heart,” said Versace.

“I am truly honoured to join Versace as the chief creative officer and to be a part of this special and powerful fashion luxury house created by Gianni and Donatella. The house of Versace has a unique heritage that has spanned decades and has shaped the history of fashion. I want to express my sincere thank you to Donatella for her trust in me, and for her tireless dedication to the extraordinary brand that Versace is today. It is a privilege to contribute to the future growth of Versace and its global impact through my vision, expertise and dedication,” said Vitale.

Vitale, 41, is widely seen as one of the most exciting and innovative upcomers in the Milan fashion scene. He graduated from Istituto Marangoni in 2006, working first at Dsquared2 for a year and then Bottega Veneta under Tomas Maier. He joined Miu Miu in 2010, where he worked his way up the ladder to become design director of ready-to-wear and head of image. He departed Prada’s sister house this January.

Today’s news comes seven years after the Versace family sold its controlling interest in Versace, alongside a 20 per cent slice owned by Blackstone, to US group Capri for €1.83 billion. As part of the deal, Donatella stayed on under contract as Versace’s chief creative officer to both lead collection design and represent the house more broadly.

Speculation is currently rife that Capri Holdings is moving to sell Versace. The group, which also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo, has come under intense pressure following the collapse last year of its proposed merger with Tapestry (owner of Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman). The $8.5 billion creation of what would have been the largest US-held luxury conglomerate was blocked by the Federal Trade Commission on competition grounds. It has since been reported that both Versace and Jimmy Choo are up for sale, with interested parties so far in Versace understood to include Prada Group.

While Versace’s future remains unclear for now, today’s news marks a profound break with its past. Reggio Calabria-born Gianni Versace worked at Italian fashion labels, including Callaghan and Genny, before founding his own label in 1978 at the suggestion of his business-minded brother, Santo, who became CEO. Donatella was alongside them from the very start. Their younger sister acted as both muse and company designer: in the early 1980s, she was also instrumental in acquiring at auction the house’s palazzo on Milan’s Via Gesù, home of the original Versace Medusa bas-relief.


After its establishment in 1989, Donatella began working on Atelier Versace (where she was first inspired to introduce the safety pin as a piece of house iconography, she later recounted). When Gianni created the diffusion line Versus in 1993, he entrusted Donatella with oversight of its design. The family, although prone to spirited debate, was also fiercely close-knit. As Gianni once said: “You can trust them. You can fight with them and be back in love. We can fight at six o’clock and have a nice dinner at eight.”

When Gianni was murdered on the steps of his Miami Beach house in July 1997, aged 50, he was in his prime of invention and renown. Versace had reported revenues of $807 million the previous year. He left his niece, Allegra Versace Beck, Donatella’s then 11-year-old daughter, all of his 50 per cent stake in the company. Santo held 30 per cent, and Donatella, who stepped up to lead design, held 20 per cent. Donatella later recalled: “The king was dead, but we had to give hope to the people around him and to the company. I felt obligated to assure the creative team around Gianni that we were going to row the boat together.”

The next decade was challenging. As Versace mourned, she also struggled. Amidst occasional bright spots — such as Jennifer Lopez’s memorable 2000 outing in the Versace dress that inspired the invention of Google Images — the business reckoned with debts and faltering revenues, while Donatella eventually went into rehab to overcome addiction. She once said of this period: “Everything crashed around me. Nothing was right. I was still trying to find my way, but I knew it wasn’t the right way… I had to find who I am without Gianni — because I was his shadow, you know?”

From around the turn of the 2010s, Versace began to regain its vigour, with a revitalised Donatella emerging as a cultural icon, championing LGBT rights, directing Versace to cease the use of fur, and settling with knowing humour into character as a dazzlingly blonde, larger-than-life fashion superstar. Once, when asked about her beauty regime, she replied: “I sleep every night in the deep freezer.”

In 2014, the family sold 20 per cent of the company to Blackstone for €210 million. By 2017, the first rumours emerged that the entire concern might be up for sale (although Gianni and Santo had once discussed a merger with Gucci shortly before Gianni’s death). Asked about the prospect of another designer leading Versace’s future creative direction, Donatella said: “Yes, I am Versace. But also, Versace needs to mean change. And it needs to be an opportunity for others to express themselves.”

Yet Donatella would continue to lead the house, perhaps most memorably for a Spring/Summer 2018 collection that marked the 20th anniversary of her brother’s death by reuniting some of the key supermodels he had championed during the 1990s. Naomi Campbell, Carla Bruni, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen all appeared in signature gold chain mail for a mise-en-scene that epitomised Donatella’s ability to combine sexiness with self-determination. As she once said: “I want to design clothes that say ‘this is a woman’s clothes’. Women are strong, and sexiness does not have to go against power. I can be more powerful than you as a woman and keep what I like. I don’t have to change myself to reach you, to talk to you, or to be relevant. That is what I’m saying.”

As well as consistently delivering some of the best one-liners in the business, Versace also commands great friendship and loyalty. Of Elton John, who was instrumental in her recovery from addiction, she once said: “Elton has my hand. He has always protected and looked after me and I love that about him." Speaking in US Vogue’s latest cover story, Gigi Hadid cites Donatella as one of her earliest champions. Jennifer Lopez has spoken of sharing with Donatella: “a natural organic relationship that wasn’t forced. It is a friendship that goes back many years.” And Anne Hathaway has said of Donatella: “I’m a huge fan of her work and everything she stands for… I know that everything she does has family at the core of it.”

Vitale’s ascension to the top creative job at Versace is exciting. In his role at Miu Miu, he has, under Miuccia Prada, helped shape the image and product of a house that recorded 93 per cent growth in 2024. Should Versace be sold, its new owners will doubtless hope he can import his revitalising influence to his new home. Yet the fact that it is Donatella Versace who is passing him the torch makes the moment bittersweet. There are very few characters in fashion to whom the word icon can be justly applied. Donatella Versace, however, is without question one of them — and her achievements on fashion’s runways have been iconic too.