Tuesday, January 30, 2024

Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W´24

In the past decade, Copenhagen has emerged as a fashion powerhouse, birthing influential brands like Ganni and Cecilie Bahnsen that have reshaped our understanding of Scandinavian style. Evolving beyond the realm of polished minimalism, the streets of the Danish capital have become a canvas for the expression of puff-sleeved dresses and the contagious allure of dopamine dressing. This vibrant fashion scene reflects a dynamic transformation, showcasing the city's ability to redefine and elevate the global fashion narrative.

In a testament to the rich pool of design talent in the Nordics, Copenhagen has experienced a recent shift in vibes. The city is placing renewed emphasis on nurturing emerging stars, with a spotlight on notable names such as streetwear brand (Di)vision, knitwear maestro A Roege Hove, and the self-taught visionary Nicklas Skovgaard. Concurrently, there is a growing commitment to sustainability, marked by Copenhagen Fashion Week's implementation of 18 minimum standards for all brands starting in January 2023. This dual focus on talent and sustainability underscores Copenhagen's pivotal role in shaping the future of the global fashion landscape.

As influential brands like Ganni divert from traditional showcases, making room for innovative approaches like the "Future, Talent, Fabrics" exhibition, the stage is set for a new wave of talent to captivate the spotlight. Copenhagen Fashion Week's autumn/winter 2024 edition promises to be a breeding ground for emerging stars. Keep an eye on these exciting names that are poised to redefine the narrative and shape the future of Nordic fashion.


After a standout spring/summer 2024 debut that left a lasting impression, Nicklas Skovgaard takes the spotlight again as he kicks off Copenhagen Fashion Week on Monday. The Danish designer, known for his theatrical flair, seamlessly blends handwoven and found materials to create unique pieces that have graced the red carpet. Notably, Alexa Chung donned a custom ensemble – a feathered crop top, micro shorts, and matching bonnet – at Vogue World: London, solidifying Skovgaard's status as a rising star in the fashion realm. All eyes eagerly await his sophomore presentation, anticipating another round of innovative and captivating designs.


Renowned for its distinctive take on Scandi minimalism in menswear since its inception in 2015, cult label Mfpen made waves last year by venturing into womenswear. Returning to the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule this season, the brand promises to captivate with its signature utilitarian approach, delivering slouchy tailoring and impeccably cut knitwear. Notably, Mfpen consciously crafts its pieces using surplus materials, contributing to a sustainable and mindful fashion ethos. Prepare to elevate your autumn/winter wishlists with the alluring blend of functionality and style that Mfpen brings to its inaugural womenswear collection.


Embrace the avant-garde as Alectra Rothschild, a talent cultivated at Mugler, Iris van Herpen, and Alexander McQueen, graces Copenhagen Fashion Week's NewTalent programme with her much-anticipated runway debut. A graduate of the Royal Danish Academy, Rothschild has already garnered attention from luminaries like Michèle Lamy. Known for her flamboyant, clubwear-inspired creations, her pieces, crafted from upcycled deadstock, promise a spectacle that transcends traditional boundaries. Get ready to experience a bold and unconventional fusion of style and sustainability as Alectra Rothschild introduces her disruptive vision to the global fashion stage.


London-based creative duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard, distinguished finalists for prestigious awards such as Zalando's Visionary Award, LVMH Prize, and Woolmark Prize in 2023, are set to captivate Copenhagen once again. Following their debut show in August, the talented pair is back for the autumn/winter season, promising a nighttime presentation that blends fashion with artistry. Expect a captivating performance by rising Danish artist Esben Weile Kjæer, perfectly complementing Russo and Guilmard's signature rave-infused designs. Embrace the fusion of fashion and nightlife as this dynamic duo continues to redefine the boundaries of contemporary style.


Renowned for his contributions to esteemed fashion houses like Dior, Raf Simons, Lanvin, and Balmain, Kristofer Kongshaug's eponymous label, Forza Collective, founded in 2022, has swiftly risen to prominence in Scandinavian fashion circles. As a finalist for the 2023 Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize, Kongshaug's avant-garde approach to minimalist eveningwear, infused with a sustainable twist through recycled nylon, is poised to make a striking statement on the Copenhagen Fashion Week runway. Stay tuned as Forza Collective continues to redefine elegance with a commitment to environmental responsibility.


Though not formally gracing the Copenhagen Fashion Week lineup, the off-schedule presentation by Solitude Studios promises to be a captivating spectacle. Established in 2018 by the creative minds of Jonas Sayed Gammal Bruun and Emil Wæde Frederiksen, the brand pioneers eco-conscious fashion by utilising leftover textiles and natural dyes in its creations. From intricate cobweb knits to their iconic "seaweed" bag, Solitude Studios demonstrates an unwavering commitment to sustainable practices, proving that style and environmental consciousness can seamlessly coexist. Keep a vigilant eye for this off-schedule gem, as it is sure to showcase a harmonious blend of creativity and responsible fashion.

Jacquemus S/S´24

Embarking on a fashion escapade, Jacquemus transported us to a realm of artistic serenity with its latest collection, aptly named "Les Sculptures." The enchanting showcase unfolded at the Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, offering a respite from the bustling Parisian fervor of the past week. Nestled in the idyllic landscapes of Southern France, guests found themselves amidst a curated spectacle of sculptures, paintings, and installations crafted by luminaries like Alexander Calder, Paul Henkins, Hans Hartung, and Alberto Giacometti. Beyond the sartorial elegance, Jacquemus seamlessly intertwined high fashion with the artistic essence of its native backdrop, providing a visual feast that transcends mere runway displays.

Bathed in the soft glow of natural light, the front row at Jacquemus' "Les Sculptures" showcase became a constellation of A-list luminaries. Among them were Kylie Jenner, accompanied by her daughter Stormi, alongside Julia Roberts, Pink Pantheress, and Jack Harlow. Within the artistic haven of the Foundation, the boundaries between celebrity, fashion, and art seamlessly dissolved. It wasn't just a show; it was a convergence of stars who not only observed but actively participated. Gigi Hadid, making a striking entrance in a tailored coat with a scooped neck and exaggerated lapels, and Emily Ratajkowski added their allure to the already spectacular affair, turning the runway into a celestial catwalk.

Off-white cropped blazers, crafted from textured leather, took centre stage, provocatively cut above the waist and paired with matching knee-length skirts. This daring elegance extended into menswear, where structured shirts and ties replaced exposed collarbones. Accessories played a pivotal role, featuring angular briefcase-style bags and rounded handbags gracefully cradled in the models' palms. Notably, the Les doubles sandales adorned the runway, echoing the architectural wonders of the space. A standing ovation to the models who effortlessly strutted in these enthralling creations, epitomising the union of architectural finesse and avant-garde sophistication.

Jacquemus orchestrated a fashion spectacle by welcoming guests with a grey trompe l'oeil sweater/scarf hybrid, a coveted piece already available on the brand's website. This ingenious creation played a recurring role throughout the collection, notably enhancing a knitted cream dress with a touch of country-club chic. The deceptive allure of the scarf sweater encapsulated the designers commitment to blending artistry and fashion, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to embrace the label's avant-garde aesthetic firsthand.

In the realm of Jacquemus, form became a stylish plaything - showcasing a distinct departure from convention. Suits took centre stage with lapel-free finishes, infusing a dash of androgyny into their traditionally masculine aesthetics. Rigid collars, perpetually windswept in appearance, extended seamlessly from collars, introducing a novel dimension to tailored ensembles. This gender-blurring theme persisted in later men's looks, featuring leather jackets adorned with wide open necks reminiscent of blouses. This intentional blurring of boundaries not only challenged traditional distinctions between men's and women's fashion, but also underscored the brand's unwavering commitment to impeccable craftsmanship.

´In a captivating display of binary blurring, Jacquemus redefines feminine power dressing with women's suiting taking centre stage. The ensembles, adorned with rounded, padded shoulders, made a commanding presence on the catwalk. A cinched waist, accentuated by a coordinating belt, seamlessly integrated with a skirt and elegantly paired with leather slingback heels. Embodied by Emily Ratajkowski, this look encapsulates a feminine interpretation of power dressing, marked by beautifully exaggerated rounded proportions that harmonise effortlessly with the aesthetic allure of the surroundings.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

The designer presented later looks, featuring a veiled wearer adorned in a seamless white dress. The dress, characterised by a rigid angular front panel, created a captivating interplay of tension, mirroring the architectural dichotomy of the show space. Typically known for its "Mediterranean village" aesthetics, the angular architecture found a softened counterpart in the curved features across doorways and onto the roof, echoing the brand's meticulous attention to detail and the seamless fusion of fashion and spatial design.

The French house once again asserted its mastery of modern chic with a predominantly black and white palette, occasionally enlivened by vibrant pops of red and grey. Embracing the brand's signature asymmetrical style, trousers protruded dynamically from the waist, complemented by a sleek black tank top featuring an angular scooped neck. The ensemble was cinched together by a black leather belt adorned with gold hardware, while a dark green bucket-style bag provided the perfect finishing touch.

The show continued to unveil a breathtaking display of artistic elegance within its Spring / Summer collection. This was one which seamlessly intertwined the kinetic essence of clothing with the timeless beauty of sculpture and painting. The brand's ability to elevate fashion to an art form was evident, creating an impressive tableau that transcended traditional runway presentations. Très bien, Jacquemus, for redefining the boundaries between fashion and art.

Adrian Appiolaza Is Named The New Creative Director Of Moschino

Moschino today announced Buenos Aires-born Adrian Appiolaza as its new creative director. The highly-regarded Argentine, 51, is understood to have recently moved to Milan from Paris in order to fine-tune the first collection to be shown under his name later this month. Appiolaza’s appointment at Moschino makes him the successor of the Italian designer Davide Renne, who died suddenly in November only 10 days after starting in the role.

Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Moschino’s owner Aeffe Group, said in a statement: “Adrian brings with him a unique wealth of experience, creativity, and knowledge of the history of fashion that will be instrumental to write a wonderful new chapter in the adventure of the brand founded by Franco Moschino.”

In the same communiqué, Appiolaza added: “I am deeply grateful to Massimo Ferretti for allowing me to access the world of Moschino as well as entry into a house whose walls exude a history that I am eager to hear. I am ready to transport the maison into a new chapter, with a theatrical touch, in the pure style of Moschino.”

Appiolaza has long been tipped to helm a house after a varied and distinguished apprenticeship below the creative decks. His most recent berth was at Loewe, where he served as ready-to-wear design director for 10 years. Prior to that he worked under Clare Waight Keller for two years during her underestimated stint at Chloé following two years under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and four years under Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu, which he joined in 2006.

“It was Phoebe Philo who changed the course of my career,” added Appiolaza in a note. While working as a junior designer at Alexander McQueen and Miguel Adrover at the turn of the millennium, the young Appialoza was also enrolled at Central Saint Martins. He added: “She saw the collection with which I graduated and invited me to join her at Chloé in 2002.” When Philo was on maternity leave in 2005, Appiolaza was amongst the design team that took a bow after that year’s fall collection was shown. He returned to the runway a year later, following Philo’s exit‚ and shortly before his move to Miu Miu.

Appiolaza was born in 1972 and says he spent much of his childhood and adolescence in his grandmother’s tailoring shop. It was an obsession with music, and not fashion, that first inspired him to leave home and move to the UK. He said: “During the years when the music scene in Manchester was thriving it pushed me to imagine another universe, seemingly distant, where I could express myself like never before.”

As well as his highly successful career in fashion design so far, Appiolaza is also a noted collector of other designers’ work. His first obsession was Comme des Garçons, but jewels in his archive include many rare early pieces by other designers including Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela, Vivienne Westwood and Issey Miyake. In his message he added: “Franco Moschino has always been among them. Having access today to these memories; walking through these corridors overflowing with history just waiting to be heard; touching clothes that I had only seen in magazines has been invaluable and will serve as a compass in the journey I have just begun.”

That journey’s first landmark will be reached on 22 February. One challenge facing Appiolaza en route is that, unlike his richly-resourced former employers at LVMH and Richemont Group, Aeffe is a relatively small ship; it must be operated tightly in order to stay afloat. For a designer so steeped in the transformative potential of innovation through design, however, that factor could be as much a help as a hindrance.

Monday, January 29, 2024

Copenhagen Fashion Week Standout Designers

Copenhagen has been responsible for a wave of fashion exports over the past decade, from Ganni to Cecilie Bahnsen, who have helped refine our perception of Scandi style. No longer just about polished minimalism, we’ve seen the rise of puff-sleeved dresses and dopamine dressing on the streets of the Danish capital in recent years.

A testament to the depth of design talent in the Nordics, we’ve witnessed another vibe shift in the city of late. There has been renewed focus on supporting rising stars like streetwear brand (Di)vision, knitwear specialist A Roege Hove and self-taught designer Nicklas Skovgaard. Meanwhile, sustainability has become increasingly important, after Copenhagen Fashion Week implemented its 18 minimum standards that all brands must adhere to in January 2023.

With major brands like Ganni opting not to show this season (instead hosting a “Future, Talent, Fabrics” exhibition), there’s even more space for new talent to shine. Below, see the buzzy names to watch out for at Copenhagen Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 2024 edition.

Nicklas Skovgaard

Nicklas Skovgaard’s theatrical spring/summer 2024 debut was undoubtedly a major highlight last season, so all eyes will be on his sophomore show, which opens Copenhagen Fashion Week on Monday. The Danish designer’s pieces, which are made from a mixture of handwoven and found materials, have already made their way onto the red carpet thanks to Alexa Chung, who wore a custom feathered crop top, micro shorts and matching bonnet at Vogue World: London back in September.


Best known for its menswear, cult label Mfpen – which has taken a utilitarian approach to Scandi minimalism since it launched in 2015 – introduced womenswear for the first time last year. As the brand returns to the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule this season, be prepared to add its slouchy tailoring and perfectly cut knitwear, consciously made using surplus materials, to your autumn/winter wishlists.

Alectra Rothschild

A new addition to Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent programme, Alectra Rothschild – who cut her teeth at the likes of Mugler, Iris van Herpen and Alexander McQueen and already counts Michèle Lamy among her fans – is set to disrupt the schedule with her debut runway show. Expect a spectacle: the Royal Danish Academy graduate’s flamboyant, clubwear-inspired creations, upcycled from deadstock, are designed to be worn out-out.

Paolina Russo

After hosting their debut show in Copenhagen in August, London-based duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard – who won Zalando’s Visionary Award and were LVMH Prize and Woolmark Prize finalists in 2023 – are back again this season. This time around, they’ll be showing their collection during a nighttime presentation, featuring a performance from rising Danish artist Esben Weile Kjæer that will no doubt complement the brand’s rave-infused designs.

Forza Collective

Having worked at the likes of Dior, Raf Simons, Lanvin and Balmain, it’s perhaps no surprise that Kristofer Kongshaug’s own label Forza Collective, founded in 2022, has quickly become a hit among the Scandi set. A 2023 Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize finalist, look out for the designer’s minimalist eveningwear with a twist, crafted from recycled nylon, on the runway.

Solitude Studios

While not officially on the Copenhagen Fashion Week line-up, keep an eye out for Solitude Studios’s off-schedule show. Founded in 2018 by Jonas Sayed Gammal Bruun and Emil Wæde Frederiksen, the brand uses leftover textiles and natural dyes to create its earth-friendly designs, from cobweb knits to its signature “seaweed” bag.

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Maison Margiela Couture S/S´24

 Maison Margiela, now synonymous with John Galliano's indomitable vision, etched an unforgettable chapter in Haute Couture Week's history. Galliano, the maestro, unfurled a narrative that transcended fashion, weaving it with elements of theatrical brilliance and cinematic grandeur. The marriage of the titan´s marked a seismic shift, one that redefined the very essence of haute couture, leaving an indelible impression. This was not merely a presentation; it was a masterpiece—an artistic expression that will resonate in the annals of high fashion.

Beneath the iconic Pont Alexandre III, and within the intimate embrace of a subterranean tavern, a visual feast unfolded. Amidst the lingering wisps of smoke, a mise-en-scène of discarded pool tables, ancient stone walls, and vintage mirrors, set the stage. Aged leather couches, worn wooden tables, and attentive waiters crafting bespoke 'whisky cocktails' elevated the ambiance—which would serve as a perfect tableau for the impending spellbinding performance. The air buzzed with an anticipatory energy, promising a rendezvous laden with haute couture enchantment.

The runway spectacle commenced with a captivating "film noir," skillfully helmed by the visionary Baz Luhrmann. Unfolding within the evocative setting of a mysterious port tavern, the narrative wove a tale of jewel heists, intense chases along the Seine, a heroic figure teetering on the brink of sacrifice, and a tango performance that left the audience breathless. The very essence of drama and suspense materialised into a living, breathing film noir, unfolding dramatically on vintage mirrors scattered throughout the atmospheric tavern.

´In a stroke of genius, Galliano skillfully transported his audience to the pulsating heart of Parisian nightlife, immersing them in the very essence of the unfolding drama. Capturing the allure and mystery of Paris after dark, the maestro showcased the city's enchanting streets, vibrant nightclubs, and clandestine haunts. Through a masterful interplay of atmospheric light and shadow, Galliano unveiled the raw, yet poetic, spirit of Paris, inviting spectators into an enigmatic nocturnal odyssey.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

Drawing a captivating parallel, Galliano's recent work resonates with the timeless essence of Brassaï, the celebrated Hungarian-French photographer, sculptor, and filmmaker. Much like Brassaï's profound lens on Parisian life, Galliano's creations mirror the city's streets, cafes, and bohemian facets, seamlessly capturing the tapestry of nightlife, ballet, and high society. In this fashion odyssey, Galliano pays homage to the fascination with Paris's underbelly, providing a vivid and candid glimpse into the urban artistry inspired by a visionary predecessor.

Galliano unveils a transcendent collection against a mesmerising backdrop, each silhouette a bold theatrical portrayal of human anatomy. The focal points—waist and derriere—take centre stage, heightened to voluminous proportions, accentuated by Victorian corsetry reaching breath-stopping dimensions. Despite its dark and provocative allure, every silhouette emerges as a masterpiece, a testament to Galliano's artistic prowess. Aptly named the "Artisanal" collection, it reverberates with the handcrafted essence of haute couture, showcasing a harmonious fusion of upcycled materials and avant-garde design. Deconstructed corsets, lace dresses, and reimagined crinolines exemplify Galliano's unparalleled vision, where each creation is a unique testament to the intersection of fashion and art.

´The ritual of dressing is a composition of the self. With the body as our canvas, we build an exterior expressive of the interior: a form of emotion.´ - John Galliano

Galliano transformed the couture house experience into a breathtaking theatrical masterpiece, seamlessly weaving a narrative of fashion, art, and drama. Each garment becomes a poetic expression, embodying the intersection of narrative storytelling and the unparalleled art of fashion. Within the collection, each piece articulates a language of  'Voluptuous Exaggeration,' celebrating the human anatomy with an emphasis on the voluptuous volumes. Galliano's virtuosity shines through in his inventive use of  re-worked corsetry, elevating the exploration of form to new heights. The result is a mesmerising narrative of 'Intentional Imbalance,' where asymmetry and drama converge to create visually compelling and dynamically unpredictable silhouettes. In each garment, Galliano orchestrates a ballet of couture poetry, transforming fabric into a medium that speaks to the inherent beauty of imbalance and the artistic mastery of intentional distortion.

This collection was a journey through darkness and provocation, which unfolded as a jubilant celebration of artistry. Each meticulously crafted design contributes to a grand and cohesive narrative, weaving together the threads of fashion and art into an exquisite tapestry of sartorial brilliance. Galliano's vision, unveiled in each piece, transcends the ordinary, inviting the audience to revel in the splendour of haute couture's enduring allure. The crescendo of Margiela´s spectacle saw the designers notable absence during the final bow, heightening the allure and mystery that enshrouded the evening. This pivotal moment in fashion history marked the unveiling of John Galliano's genius, leaving an indelible imprint with an unforgettable fusion of style, drama, and an artistic narrative that will resonate through the chronicles of couture for many seasons to come.

Friday, January 26, 2024

Paris Couture S/S´24

At the apex of French style and savoir-faire resides haute couture, an exclusive realm where only a select few houses are anointed by the esteemed Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode each year. This coveted membership sets the stage for some of the most extravagant runway spectacles, transcending mere fashion shows with opulent sets and star-studded front rows. More than a showcase of exquisite garments, haute couture is an ode to the poetic artistry of fashion and dressmaking, where each meticulously handcrafted piece demands hours of painstaking work for perfection.

In the current season, this transcendent journey commenced at Chanel, where Virginie Viard ingeniously wove a narrative around a lost button, spiraling into a mesmerising confluence of confections, inspired by the ethereal world of dance. Meanwhile, at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri orchestrated a symphony of opulence, showcasing a rich melange of meticulously crafted fabrics against the backdrop of a captivating set envisioned by artist Isabella Ducrot. On a more intimate note, Pieter Mulier of Alaïa unveiled a tight-knit show, inviting audiences into the heart of his emotive designer sanctuary – a poignant expression of closeness and introspection.

´Paris Couture Week 2024 unfolded in a spectacular display of opulence and innovation, epitomising the pinnacle of French style. Valentino's 'Le Salon' celebrated the timeless essence of haute couture, while Giorgio Armani Privé embarked on an opulent journey. Alaïa's intimate showcase focused on reduction, Chanel explored ballet's poetry, and Dior delved into the exploration of 'aura.' Schiaparelli's cosmic collection and Toteme's off-schedule exhibition added further chapters to this captivating showcase of haute couture artistry and creativity.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

As the couture season unfolds, it continues to transport us into a realm where artistry meets exclusivity, and each runway tableau is a testament to that enduring magic of haute couture.


Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his latest haute couture marvel for Valentino under the enchanting banner of 'Le Salon,' paying homage to the revered salons of Parisian maisons de couture. In a deliberate nod to tradition, Piccioli chose Valentino's haute couture salon as the backdrop, an opulent setting within the brand's Place Vendôme headquarters. This choice epitomised his aspiration to revive the 'timeless essence of haute couture,' embracing it as a sanctuary for both craftsmanship and boundless imagination.

While rooted in tradition, Piccioli's collection seamlessly integrated a contemporary spirit of ease and modernity. The silhouettes, predominantly languid and unrestrained, showcased a departure from the conventional. Tailored jackets and overcoats, paired with gently flared trousers and plunging vest tops, exuded an effortless luxury, translating everyday style into couture opulence. Intricate embellishments paid homage to the art of craft, with bouncing plumes of feathers, metallic petals adorning sweeping opera coats, and garments skillfully mimicking exotic skins and furs—crafted ingeniously from silk organza rouleaux or hand-cut sequins evoking the allure of an alligator's scales.

Piccioli expressed his vision through a profound declaration: "The salon here is not a stage but rather a cultural milieu, to valorise craft, to celebrate the act of creation. It is a place to bear witness to beauty, therefore to experience humanity. It is the heart of haute couture." In 'Le Salon,' Valentino invites us to a realm where timeless elegance converges with contemporary allure, encapsulating the very essence of haute couture.


Giorgio Armani orchestrated yet another opulent spectacle with his Privé collection, drawing an equally lavish front row adorned in the previous season's runway splendours. The maestro's pursuit of beauty, revered by an international clientele, unfolded not only through the languid lines echoing in his ready-to-wear collections but also in the extraordinary embellishments that graced the Privé runway. Rich jacquards, intricate lace, and iridescent fabrics enveloped the body, casting a mesmerising glow in the ethereal light.

In a testament to boundless creativity, Armani described this collection as an indulgence in unexpected bursts of creativity, setting the stage for a whimsical journey. Dresses unfurled into cascading fronds of tulle, and colossal plissé hats added a touch of fantasy to the runway. Building on the theme from the previous season, the designer alluded to an 'imagined journey from west to east,' manifested through the luxurious embroidery adorning kimono-inspired robes. Giorgio Armani Privé once again emerged as a symphony of extravagance, where each intricately crafted piece harmonised to create a resplendent visual opus.


In Pieter Mulier's latest masterstroke, each garment was meticulously crafted from a single piece of yarn—an engineering marvel paying homage to Azzedine Alaïa's architectural ethos in dressmaking. The merino wool yarn, a year in the making with the house's knitwear and textile collaborators, signaled a minimalist shift, not in simplicity but in essence. Fluttering layers, sculptural gowns, and whimsical pom-pom fronds emerged from sleeves and hems, revealing a complexity beneath the surface.

Mulier expressed a philosophy of 'less meaning more,' emphasising intimacy and the essence of fashion. It's a deliberate choice to focus on freedom and invention, not minimising but expanding possibilities. The endlessly looping twists of yarn symbolised Alaïa's core—an intimacy embodied in circles of friends, chosen family, an essence inherent to the brand. This sentiment echoed through the show, held at the Alaïa store on Rue de Marignan, attended by a select few perched on Philippe Malouin's Mollo sofas, witnessing a celebration of essence and invention in every meticulously woven thread.


In a mesmerising opening film, actress Margaret Qualley loses a button from her Chanel jacket, only to be assisted by Naomi Campbell in a surreal dance of fashion, directed by Dave Free and scored by Kendrick Lamar. Emerging from the cinematic spell, Qualley seamlessly transitions onto the runway, embodying the essence of Virginie Viard's romantic collection.

Viard, drawing inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel's adorned jackets, transforms the iconic button into a symbolic jewel, exploring its significance in a nuanced balletic narrative. "Chanel brings out emotions in me that I use for inspiration, collection after collection... my mission is to find new ways to tell its most beautiful stories," expresses Viard.

The ethereal collection, presented in a sugared-almond palette of white and pale pink, unfolds with graceful flourishes reminiscent of ballet and dance. Fronds of tulle cascade from jacket sleeves and hips, while layered body suits, adorned with extraordinary embellished bustiers, and delicate white tights evoke the liberated spirit of a dancer's rehearsal room. Viard, emphasising the importance of dance at Chanel, seamlessly merges the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in this poetic composition of tulle, ruffles, pleats, and lace.



Maria Grazia Chiuri transcends traditional themes, delving into the intangible realm of 'aura,' defining a contemporary feminine expression that echoes her impactful tenure at Dior. The backdrop, Isabella Ducrot's "Big Aura," portrays large-scale clothing silhouettes reminiscent of the warp and weft of cloth, emphasising the couturier's medium: fabric.

Fabric takes centre stage, showcasing sumptuous moiré alongside the sheen of iridescent textures and lush velvet. Chiuri pays homage to Christian Dior's infatuation with moiré, describing it as a wave unfurling over winter. Drawing inspiration from the iconic La Cigale dress of Dior's A/W 1952 collection, the designer reinterprets the classic silhouette. Narrowed at the waist and cantilevered at the hip, it shapes the posture effortlessly. Gowns gracefully envelop the body, delicately cinched at the waist, while hourglass tailored jackets harmonise with free-flowing plissé skirts, creating a mesmerising symphony of elegance.


Daniel Roseberry, the maestro behind Parisian couture house Schiaparelli, once again stole the limelight, marking the pinnacle of the week in the city of lights. A front row adorned with luminaries like Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya, and Hunter Schafer set the stage for an extraordinary show. Roseberry, known for his penchant for fantasy and a Thom Browne protege, constantly defies expectations, as seen in his internet-infamous S/S 2023 collection featuring oversized animal head replicas.

This season was no different, as Roseberry unveiled a cosmic collection inspired by outer space and sci-fi tropes. The runway spectacle included a 'robo baby,' an avant-garde creation resembling gleaming discarded tech, carried by model Maggie Maurer, who marveled at its weightlessness compared to her own baby. Another showstopper was a gown adorned with old mobile phones and compact disks, embodying Roseberry's philosophy that seemingly disparate elements can harmoniously create something entirely new and unexpected.

The gowns, sculpted with Roseberry's signature finesse, showcased intricate embroidery soaring above the head on one side. Enormous fan-like breastplates crafted from patchworked black lace added a touch of the surreal. "A series of profiles both familiar and not – part human, part something else," Roseberry expressed, encapsulating the essence of Schiaparelli – where art, nature, and avant-garde ideas unite to craft a unique and transcendent experience.


Swedish fashion powerhouse Toteme continues its triumphant trajectory, reaching new heights with the inauguration of a sophisticated London boutique on Mount Street last year, adding to a global portfolio spanning New York, Shanghai, Seoul, and its hometown Stockholm. Opting for an off-schedule showcase during Haute Couture Week, founders Elin Kling and Karl Lindman curated an exclusive audience of press and associates for an intimate preview of the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection.

The stark white backdrop of the runway served as a canvas for Toteme's aesthetic, reminiscent of the stripped-back stylings that defined runway shows in the 1990s. Kling, the creative director, emphasised a focus on "line, cut, and shape" in a discerning collection that featured gently tapered wool overcoats, featherweight knits sensually wrapping the neckline (later echoed in sinuous dresses), and impeccably tailored gowns. The show concluded with ethereal pieces hovering gently off the shoulder or intricately knotted, adorned with delicate crochet flowers.

"The collection is designed for real-life situations, offering a highly curated edit that explores and consolidates the Toteme codes," noted Kling. This masterful curation ultimately presents the perfect fusion of styles for a refined and sophisticated look, epitomising Toteme's commitment to elegance and minimalism.


Simone Rocha, in her creative stewardship of Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture, seamlessly blended the essence of haute couture technique with the bold spirit of Mr. Gaultier. A delightful collision of her female perspective, Irish heritage, and subversive style unfolded, marking a captivating moment for those unfamiliar with her work. Rocha's unique touch, from ruby satin breast-pieces to transparent pannier dresses and iconic Gaultier-inspired corsetry, reflected a playful provocativeness and individualistic flair. Paying homage to Gaultier's classics, she transformed Breton stripes into a ribbon-and-bow-covered t-shirt and revived the emblematic tattoo collection symbols.

Delving into the JPG archive, Rocha discovered Gaultier's use of traditional Irish crochet, inspiring her to craft molded silver-dipped dresses and exquisite ecru doily lace creations with stiffened breast-pieces. Her attention to detail extended to whimsical accessories, including lucite heels adorned with pearls and feathers, earrings shaped like garter belts, ribbons, and cow-parsley blooms. Unapologetically celebrating female physicality, the guest of the moment introduced unconventional padded underpants that created bustle-like protuberances, amongst other eyecatching details. The grand finale featured voluminous tulle ball gowns, showcasing Rocha's versatility and flair for the spectacular, which saw the audience respond with rapturous applause, whilst her moment was sealed with a giant hug from Jean Paul himself.

Monday, January 22, 2024

Paris Men´s Fashion Week A/W´24

Paris Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2024, the grand finale of the illustrious men’s fashion month, graced the French capital with a captivating lineup of sartorial splendour. The opening act featured Pharrell Williams' highly anticipated sophomore ready-to-wear show for Louis Vuitton—a homage to the American West and its iconic dress codes. As the fashion spectacle unfolded, the week continued to unfold its narrative, punctuated by significant moments.

Noteworthy was Givenchy's unveiling of its first show post the departure of Matthew M Williams. The collection, entrusted to the capable hands of the in-house team, promised a seamless transition and an exploration of the maison's evolving aesthetic. The Parisian stage also welcomed back British designer Grace Wales Bonner, who showcased her unique vision in a display of exquisite craftsmanship and cultural narratives.

´This week witnessed a sartorial spectacle, with runway shows capturing the essence of elegance and innovation. From Louis Vuitton's cowboy-inspired odyssey to Givenchy's eclectic blend of gentlemanliness, the fashion scene unfolded in a kaleidoscope of styles, each designer weaving a unique narrative into the fabric of Parisian haute couture.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

Adding an intimate touch to the fashion week, maestro Rick Owens hosted a show at his Parisian residence—a personal and immersive experience that underscored his avant-garde approach to design. Each event throughout the week, a carefully curated tapestry of creativity and innovation, reinforced Paris as the epicenter of menswear excellence.

As the curtains fell on this edition of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, the runways reverberated with a diverse range of influences, visions, and styles, cementing the city's status as the ultimate destination for discerning fashion enthusiasts and industry luminaries alike.


In the opulent salons of Paris' Monnaie de Paris, Pierpaolo Piccioli wielded the transformative power of colour, a signature move for the maestro known for orchestrating entire collections in a singular hue. For his latest menswear-only showcase, Piccioli immersed the venue in a refreshing sky blue, gracing both benches and doors with this breezy palette.

This colour choice wasn't arbitrary; instead, it served as a nuanced exploration of contemporary manhood, linking blue with its modern association, particularly after the birth of a child. Piccioli delved into the historical resonance of colour, revealing that traditionally, blue was tethered to femininity—a shift only occurring within this century. In this presentation, he sought to resignify blue - presenting it as a fluid entity, a concept that seamlessly extended to the garments themselves.

Archetypal menswear pieces, such as the traditional Italian suit, underwent a metamorphosis under Piccioli's creative gaze. The silhouettes, which boasted softer lines and moments of embellishment reminiscent of the house's haute couture collections, adorned the garments. This meticulous play with form and decoration added a contemporary layer to the timeless elegance inherent in Valentino's menswear, elevating it to a realm where tradition and innovation coalesce harmoniously. The Monnaie de Paris became a canvas for Piccioli's chromatic symphony, where each brushstroke of sky blue redefined the narrative of menswear, encapsulating a mood that is both fluid and enduring.



In the realm of Hermès menswear, Véronique Nichanian weaves an enduring narrative of pleasure through clothing—a quest spanning over three decades. The latest menswear showcase unveiled a myriad of choices for the Hermès man in the upcoming winter, with a particular emphasis on outerwear that seamlessly marries visual and tactile delight.

Standout pieces included a luxurious shearling-lined leather parka and shorter leather peacoats adorned with a whimsical collage of utility pockets—aptly dubbed by Hermès as pockets that 'slip and slide.' The craftsmanship echoed Hermès' commitment to playful elegance and practicality, a delicate balance Nichanian has mastered over the years.

A diverse array of knitwear took centre stage, some featuring painterly prints and presented in artful layers. Heritage checks, notably the Prince of Wales plaid, made a resounding statement, infusing the collection with a sense of timeless sophistication. True to Hermès' seductive aesthetic, accessories played a pivotal role, with versions of the spacious Haut à Courroies carry-all crafted in smooth barénia and sombrero calfskin. A smaller, book-sized bag, complete with utility pockets and designed to be grasped in hand, added a touch of modern functionality.

The grand finale unfolded in a captivating array of eveningwear, showcasing a tailored jacket and coat crafted from calf hair leather. The pieces exhibited a narrow and elegant line, providing a sophisticated punctuation mark to the collection. Véronique Nichanian's masterful curation of pleasure-infused garments at Hermès once again reaffirms the brand's timeless allure and unwavering commitment to the artistry of menswear.



Jonathan Anderson embarked on an audacious journey for Loewe's fall showcase, drawing inspiration from the works of Los Angeles based artist Richard Hawkins. The setting resembled a peculiar cathedral to masculinity, with buzzing 'stained-glass window' screens displaying images of Anderson's celebrity devotees—Jamie Dornan, Josh O'Connor, Omar Apollo, and Manu Rios. Filming themselves on iPhones, they preened before reflections, surrounded by Hawkins' intricate collages, capturing a spectrum of fixations - from Roman statuary and French decadence to contemporary celebrity culture, masculinity, and the male body; a recurring theme in Hawkins' art. The show's culmination featured a series of Hawkins paintings, dubbed the 'altar' by Anderson.

The essence of  'collaged realness,' as Anderson described it, permeated the collection, exuding irreverence and youthful spirit. Oversized leather cargo pants were paired with baseball sneakers, askew checkered shirts, and pieces adorned with saturated images from Hawkins' oeuvre created a dynamic visual narrative. Elongated sweaters, sweatpants, and handbags served as canvases for Hawkins' vivid works, while layered garments peeked beneath long overcoats, creating a playful illusion reminiscent of concealing a pile of laundry. Leather trenches with dropped tie waistlines and textured variations of the pussybow were elegant highlights, juxtaposed with fairisle knits.

A visual sleight-of-hand emerged in trousers seamlessly attached to socks, which, in turn, were connected to shoes—a deliberate statement about transparency and media influence. Anderson reflected on the modern collage of life, observing how it has become an incessant stream of algorithmic images—a concept akin to Hawkins' works, which anticipated today's visual culture consumption. The exploration delved into the evolving psychology of self-perception, validation, and iconography in contemporary society. Anderson's vision embraced the uncertainty of the future with excitement, suggesting a compelling evolution in our collective understanding of self and society.



Rei Kawakubo's latest menswear endeavor for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus embraced a compelling simplicity, steering away from the avant-garde silhouettes synonymous with the Japanese brand's womenswear collections. Instead, the focus shifted towards an exploration of tailoring, albeit in Kawakubo's idiosyncratic and improvisational style.

A predominantly neutral palette of white, cream, and ecru enveloped the collection, with Kawakubo cryptically noting that "white is symbolic of prayer" in her characteristic enigmatic press notes. Tailored jackets took center stage, tightly nipped across the chest, featuring double lapels or artfully sliced sections. Trousers showcased generous volume, gracefully ballooning just above the ankles. The sartorial narrative unfolded with jackets paired with wide, elongated shorts or pleated kilts, lending a subtle nod to tradition with a contemporary twist.

Embellishments manifested as rows of meticulously stitched-on white buttons and glimpses of sequins, discreetly revealed beneath blazers and knits. The culmination of the runway presentation witnessed a playful flourish with headpieces created by Gary Card, fashioning inventive creations from wrapped garments sourced from Comme des Garçons' ubiquitous 'Play' line.

In this curated exploration of tailoring, Kawakubo showcased her mastery of form and function, infusing each piece with a quiet yet powerful elegance. The collection emerged as a thoughtful meditation on the interplay between tradition and innovation, elevating menswear with nuanced details and a touch of whimsy that remains inherent to the essence of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.


For Kim Jones' latest Dior Men's show, the invitation set the stage with a photograph of the legendary Soviet-born ballet dancer, Rudolf Nureyev. Captured by Jones' uncle, a former ballet dancer and photographer, the image portrayed Nureyev's iconic defection to the West during a 1961 trip to Paris. Jones compiled these captivating images into a book, left as a gift on attendees' seats, creating a personal and historical link to the collection. Explaining the inspiration, Jones shared, "Nureyev is entwined with my personal history because of my uncle. I had been thinking about the relationship between the ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn and Monsieur Dior. The masculine interpretation of this involved thinking about her most famous dance partner, Nureyev."

This powerful narrative set the tone for one of Jones' most compelling presentations to date for Dior. The collection seamlessly transitioned between ready-to-wear and couture, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship of the Dior atelier in the latter. Divided into two acts, the journey unfolded from the rehearsal room to the grand stage, symbolising the contrasts within the house of Dior and the dualities of Nureyev's life in both reality and theatricality.

Throughout the show, echoes of the dance studio were brought to life with twisting turbans by Stephen Jones, reminiscent of those worn by Nureyev. Some models sported slicked-back hair held in place by thick black bands. A masculine take on ballet attire featured wide tailored shorts paired with white socks and ballet pumps, while lightweight zip-up ribbed knits with deep necklines evoked the elegance of ballet cardigans.

The tailoring showcased a delicate fluidity, drawing inspiration from archival pieces during Yves Saint Laurent's tenure at Dior. The couture segment was a crescendo of theatricality, culminating in models elevated on a rotating platform like dancers in a music box. Jones' couture expressions ranged from an extraordinary beaded white tabard with a pearl-studded collar to a kimono-style cape, reminiscent of Nureyev's iconic attire, requiring an astounding ten months to complete by three skilled artisans. This collection masterfully fused the world of dance, history, and couture, creating a harmonious ballet of contrasts on the Dior runway.



In his latest collection, Paul Smith boldly exemplified the adage that ´understanding the rules is essential to breaking them.´ Throughout his illustrious career, the designer has seamlessly blended a profound appreciation for British tailoring with his signature playful and eclectic use of colour and print. This juxtaposition took center stage in the collection, where quintessential elements of British style – including WW2 rider jackets, timeless overcoats, and padded gilets – coalesced with modernist-inspired hues, prints, and motifs.

The designer drew inspiration from Man Ray's evocative 'Rayograph' images, particularly the 'Photogram' print, symbolising a rebellious departure from the conventional norms of its time. The colour palette, a rich spectrum of deep purples, navies, and browns, was invigorated with vibrant flashes of lime green and ochre. Smith's iconic 'Signature Stripe' motif adorned layered cardigans and knit sweaters, adding a distinctive touch to the ensemble.

This collection is a testament to Paul Smith's ability to navigate the boundaries of tradition and innovation, creating a harmonious dialogue between the timeless elegance of British tailoring and his avant-garde approach to colour and pattern.


Junya Watanabe MAN presented a diverse ensemble in his latest collection, aptly named 'Reconstructed Suiting.' The designer's brief commentary, "I wish for men of different generations to wear these suits," hinted at a collection grounded in everyday life. Watanabe seamlessly played with quintessential elements of men's style - from refined tailoring to denim jeans, striped shirts, and hoodies.

A pervasive sense of hybridity characterised the individual garments. Tailored jackets were transformed into coats with trench-inspired panels, while others incorporated overlays of chinos or jeans. Simplified coats, secured with a chest panel and paired with classic pinstripe pants, marked a shift toward a more straightforward aesthetic. Despite this reductionist approach, Watanabe's signature patchwork techniques persisted throughout the collection.

True to his collaborative spirit, Watanabe reimagined iconic styles from brands like Brooks Brothers, Palace, and Carhartt. This reinterpretation showcased the Japanese designer's disruptive vision, adding a distinct flair to established signatures. The collection exuded a modern versatility, inviting men of different generations to embrace its fusion of classic and contemporary elements.


Homme Plissé Issey Miyake unveiled its latest collection - a collaborative venture with the versatile French artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec. Drawing inspiration from Bouroullec's vibrant and abstract morning drawings, created with a Japanese felt-tip brush, the collection seamlessly integrated these colourful forms as embellishments on the brand's signature pleated separates. The freewheeling and improvisational theme of the season captured the essence of Bouroullec's work.

Titled 'Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity,' the collection sought to explore the translation of creative materials, specifically Bouroullec's oeuvre, into the realm of clothing. The result was a liberating and expressive mood, with beautifully layered silhouettes that conveyed a sense of being wrapped or loosely twisted around the body. Artistic touches abounded, including models carrying cushions adorned with motifs reminiscent of Bouroullec's distinctive work, adding an extra layer of creativity to the immersive experience.


In a grand setting adorned with towering velvet curtains and a sprawling monogrammed carpet, Mike Amiri unveiled his latest collection, presenting an homage to the allure of Hollywood epics. Drawing inspiration from the nostalgic glamour of his hometown, Los Angeles, the collection prominently featured luxurious tailoring. Elongated satin blazers, jacquard evening jackets, and loosely cut suiting with a relaxed, pyjama-style silhouette took cues from both Old Hollywood dress codes and the effortlessly chic glamour of the 1990´s. Reflecting the cinematic inspiration, the entire collection shimmered with crystals, adorning lapels as stacked brooches on jackets or delicately twinkling across undone shirts and stylish beanie hats.


In an intimate departure from his usual grandeur, Rick Owens opened the doors of his Parisian home on the prestigious Place du Palais Bourbon to present his latest menswear show, titled 'Porterville' – a nod to the Californian city of his birth and upbringing. Within the vast concrete rooms, sparsely adorned with Owens' signature monolithic furniture, the designer embraced this more personal setting, a stark contrast to his typical Palais de Tokyo forecourt showcases, as an expression of 'respectful restraint' in response to current global upheavals.

Fostering a sense of community, Owens featured Steven from Fecal Matter and Gena Marvin – known for their unconventional, otherworldly styles both off and on the runway. Collaborations with London-based designer Straytukay resulted in innovative inflatable footwear, while rubber-wear specialist Matisse Di Maggio contributed pieces crafted from recycled tires. Throughout the collection, a theme of envelopment and solace prevailed, with oversized shaggy forms gently encircling the body, suggesting a protective embrace. Luxurious knitted all-in-ones, fashioned from soft alpaca, cashmere, and merino, further conveyed a mood of comfort and refuge.



Grace Wales Bonner, the visionary British designer, once again delves into the rich tapestry of American collegiate style in her latest showcase, hosted in the exquisite Paris Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers. At the heart of this season's narrative is Howard University, a revered institution with a profound Black legacy in Washington DC - counting luminaries such as Zora Neale Hurston and Toni Morrison among its esteemed alumni. The collection unfolds as a 'celebration of [its] shining lineage,' drawing inspiration from the vibrant imagery of homecoming festivities, marked by hip-hop performances, poetic readings, and international gatherings on the lush green campus.

In a fittingly poetic touch, the runway featured a live performance by the acclaimed musician Yasiin Bey. The garments themselves artfully blend the iconic college uniform – think Howard Crew-emblazoned sweaters, monogrammed varsity jackets, and baseball jackets – with moments of refined elegance and meticulous craftsmanship. Handcrafted crocheted mirrors, originating from India, embellish tailored pieces, while exquisite beads, pearls, and amethysts adorn jewellery and brooches, imparting a ceremonial air. A standout moment arrives in the form of a resplendent black tuxedo, perhaps evoking the dignified commencement ceremony, created in collaboration with Savile Row tailors Anderson and Sheppard.

The theme of refinement seamlessly extends to Wales Bonner's latest collaboration with Adidas Originals, introducing miniature handbags and crocodile-embossed leather iterations of the iconic Superstar sneaker. The designer's ability to seamlessly weave together collegiate nostalgia, cultural celebration, and sartorial elegance reaffirms her status as a true visionary in the world of high fashion.


In the historic haute couture salon of Hôtel de Caraman on Paris' prestigious Avenue Georges, Givenchy unveiled its latest runway spectacle, marking the brand's first show since the departure of American designer Matthew M Williams last year. The opulent setting, once the workplace of Hubert de Givenchy for an illustrious 36 years, set the stage for a traditional salon presentation. Seated around tables in the venue's elegant white-walled rooms, guests immersed themselves in an atmosphere of refined sophistication, enhanced by the presence of delectable treats like madeleines, truffle sandwiches, and champagne.

For this season, an in-house team, awaiting the announcement of the new creative director, meticulously crafted the collection. The inspiration drew from the essence of 'gentlemanliness,' inspired by Mr. Givenchy himself and his distinctive dress codes. The collection artfully balanced the duality of his public and personal wardrobes, seamlessly intertwining sartorial formality with an off-duty sense of nonchalance, flamboyance, and seduction.

The runway showcased a diverse array of garments, ranging from cat-adorned vest tops and playful synthetic hair cascading from under tailored jackets to dramatic overcoats. The collection featured ladylike silk headscarves, reminiscent of an archival style, as well as louche, unbuttoned silk scarves and layers of meticulously crafted knitwear. Sculptural hats made a bold statement, adding an avant-garde touch to the ensemble. Tailoring, a Givenchy hallmark, took various forms – some with sliced sleeves and others reimagining classic eveningwear – predominantly adopting a double-breasted and narrow silhouette.

The show concluded without the customary final bow, leaving an air of anticipation for the upcoming season and the unveiling of the brand's next creative leader. The legacy of Givenchy continues to evolve, capturing the spirit of its founder while embracing contemporary interpretations of sophistication and allure.


Lemaire's latest presentation unfolded within the pristine, white-walled expanse of the brand's headquarters in Paris' picturesque Place des Vosges. The ambiance was carefully curated, with the audience indulging in warm herbal cocktails in the covered courtyard before the show - a comforting contrast to the day's chilly, drizzly weather. The event exuded an intimate and exclusive aura, akin to a privileged glimpse into the serene inner sanctum of the Lemaire brand.

The collection, a testament to Lemaire's commitment to evolving its signature aesthetic gradually, reflected discreet and uncomplicated elegance. This refined style was not only embodied in the meticulously designed garments, but also echoed by the impeccably chic staff, adorned in varying tones of Lemaire's trademark ecru and off-white.

Christophe Lemaire, alongside Sarah-Linh Tran, the creative force behind the eponymous label, expressed that the timing felt right to invite individuals into this sacred creative space, encompassing the brand's entire operation, including the atelier and workshop. The narrative of the collection unfolded as an ode to the solace found within the home, with enveloping, layered ensembles inspired by dance attire, delicately embracing the body like a second skin. Certain pieces ingeniously bridged the realms of domestic comfort and outdoor sophistication, featuring elegant 'in-and-out pyjamas' and outerwear evoking the proportions of a luxurious bathrobe. Each garment was a harmonious expression of Lemaire's ongoing pursuit of refined simplicity and understated allure.


Pharrell Williams transported Louis Vuitton's runway to the scenic Bois de Boulogne in Paris for his much-anticipated second ready-to-wear show. Building on the success of his debut last summer, and a subsequent pre-fall collection, this A/W 2024 showcase unfolded within a venue adorned with vast projections depicting the rugged landscapes of the United States. The invitation itself, a finely crafted LV-branded cowboy hat and an engraved harmonica, hinted at the thematic journey awaiting the audience.

Williams presented an homage to the quintessential American archetype—the cowboy—infused with the distinctive Parisian flair of Louis Vuitton. Titled 'Paris to VA,' referencing his home state of Virginia, the collection featured denim chaps, Western-style shirts embellished with frilled yolks and intricate pearl-and-sequin details. Workwear received a tailored twist, with reinterpretations of traditional double-kneed carpenter's pants and a collaborative footwear line with Timberland. Completing the cowboy aesthetic were the requisite hats, while oversized gilded Louis Vuitton trunks were elegantly wheeled along the runway on wooden frontier carriages.

Before the show, Williams underscored the intention to offer a more expansive and inclusive vision of the cowboy trope. Recognising the historical contributions of Black and Native American cowboys, artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations collaborated on the collection. Notable pieces included a Dakota Flower motif-embroidered version of the iconic 'Speedy' bag and 'Keepalls' adorned with designs reminiscent of 'parfleche,' buffalo hides historically decorated by Native American communities. The culmination featured a performance by powwow group Native Voices of Resistance, dressed in designs by Dee Jay Two Bears of the Standing Rock Sioux Tribe, as gentle snowfall transformed the projected desert into a serene winter landscape. Williams' expansive and energetic vision for Louis Vuitton left the audience eagerly anticipating the next chapter in his creative odyssey.

Saturday, January 20, 2024

Milan Men´s Fashion Week A/W´24

In the illustrious chronicles of Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024, the week's four-day extravaganza unfolded as a mesmerising spectacle, offering a definitive glimpse into the sartorial narrative that will shape men's fashion in the upcoming season – a narrative ranging from opulent sartorial elegance to daring experimentalism.

The inaugural day seized the spotlight with the much-anticipated debut of Sabato De Sarno, the visionary creative director of Gucci, showcasing his inaugural menswear collection for the iconic brand. Infused with an effortless sensuality, De Sarno's creations set an exquisite tone for a week defined by refinement and innovation. Simultaneously, the cult Italian label Stone Island, founded in 1982, commanded attention with its premiere runway show, a remarkable feat for a brand rooted in decades of legacy.

´JW Anderson, in a triumphant return to Milan, presented a menswear collection that drew inspiration from Stanley Kubrick's enigmatic 1999 thriller, "Eyes Wide Shut." Collaborating with Kubrick’s wife, Christiane, an acclaimed artist, Anderson's collection transcended conventional boundaries, seamlessly marrying artistry with avant-garde fashion.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

Prada, renowned for pushing the boundaries of runway presentations, followed its viral slime-drenched spectacle with another equally captivating show. The juxtaposition of the corporate office and the great outdoors created a visually striking tableau, leaving the audience in awe of the brand's fearless creativity.

The week unfolded with equally captivating showcases from fashion powerhouses like Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Tod’s, MSGM, and Zegna, among others, which ended in a grand finale on January 15, 2024 and brought a resplendent conclusion to a week filled with visionary collections - epitomising the pinnacle of high-end fashion innovation and elegance.

Zegna's latest showcase unfolded as a grand spectacle within the expansive confines of the Allianz MiCo convention centre in Milan. At its heart, a monumental mound of saffron-orange cashmere took centre stage, symbolising the fabric that lies at the core of Zegna's craftsmanship. For the winter season, Alessandro Sartori, the visionary designer, sought to amplify the focus on cashmere, deeming it the quintessential fibre to meet the unique demands of the season.



Dubbed 'In the Oasi of Cashmere,' the collection drew inspiration from Oasi Zegna, the house's nature park situated on the grounds of its inaugural wool mill – a sacred space and the spiritual nexus of the brand. Sartori articulated, "As both a physical place and a mindset [it is] the center of our world, a veritable lab: a place in which we can tirelessly explore new fabrications, develop new forms."

Within the garments themselves, Sartori embraced the notions of transformation and experimentation, though the term evolution resonates more accurately. The languid silhouettes, seamlessly merging comfort with sumptuous fabrications, unfolded gradually, building upon the foundations laid in the previous season. A discernible thread connected the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, where linen took centre stage, to the current offering characterised by gently oversized and minimally adorned garments expertly crafted through strategic layering.

Notable highlights for Autumn/Winter 2024 included an array of stunning double-breasted overcoats, artfully amplified in proportion to cocoon the body. The suiting showcased elegant wide-legged trousers, reminiscent of sweat pants in their relaxed ease. However, it was Sartori's masterful use of colour that remained the collection's most enchanting element – a rich and evocative palette of greys, browns, and whites adorned with flashes of blue and pink. The latter drew inspiration from the pink walls of Alba Cathedral in Piedmont, contributing to the overall allure of a collection that seamlessly marries heritage with modernity.


In the anticipation leading up to JW Anderson's latest showcase, Jonathan Anderson tantalised the fashion world with a visual journey inspired by Stanley Kubrick's provocative 1999 film, "Eyes Wide Shut" – the director's final cinematic masterpiece. The film's undeniable eroticism served as the creative catalyst for Anderson's avant-garde menswear collection, drawing particular inspiration from the enigmatic paintings of Christiane Kubrick, the wife of the legendary director, which grace the film's interiors.

Several of Christiane Kubrick's captivating works were seamlessly woven into the fabric of the collection itself, adorning elongated knit dresses and gracing the surfaces of meticulously crafted handbags. This collaborative venture with the artist brought a unique depth to the garments, as Anderson expressed, "I thought it was interesting to bring something into the foreground that ultimately doesn’t want to be there." The result was a collection infused with an underlying strangeness, mirroring the pulsating intrigue inherent in the film.

Models, boldly stripped from the waist down, elegantly donned fine denier tights, while shorts and cardigans exhibited bulges of rolled satin emerging from beneath, creating a visual narrative that defied conventional norms. Poinsettia decorations, chosen despite Anderson's confessed sense of disgust towards the Christmas plant, adorned several looks, adding a touch of unconventional beauty. Meanwhile, womenswear pieces wrapped gracefully around the body in rich tones of red and black, contributing to the overall allure of this seductive and intriguing offering from the visionary designer. As the collection notes succinctly declared, "Everything is off," encapsulating the deliberate departure from the expected and inviting the audience into a realm where beauty thrives in the unconventional.


Prada's latest spectacle unfolded as an immersive experience, commencing with an invitation that unfurled like an expansive book, revealing a silk tie encased within an image of a lush forest. This symbolic dichotomy became the guiding force behind the entire collection—a captivating clash between the realms of man and nature, the corporate office, and the untamed forest floor.

The journey commenced with guests traversing a meticulously recreated nondescript office space, complete with spinning desk chairs and computers humming with the iconic Prada logo. This surreal corporate environment served as a prelude to the main runway, where a vast perspex floor hovered above an expanse of grass, fallen leaves, and babbling brooks, creating an otherworldly fusion of indoors and outdoors. Conceived in collaboration with Rotterdam-based AMO, the effect was so extraordinary that even Miuccia Prada admitted to finding it "scary," encapsulating the eerie yet intriguing juxtaposition inherent in the collection.

Raf Simons, the co-creative director, articulated the essence of the collection, stating, "Office and nature, inside and out, the instinctive change of people shifting between these opposite spheres." The duo seamlessly melded a distinct Prada-esque take on the corporate uniform with elements suggesting the great outdoors. From oversized double-breasted sailor coats to inventive renditions of tweed overcoats and high-necked trenches, the collection oscillated between the two realms with captivating flair. The vibrant use of color intensified the palpable tension embedded within the garments.

Exploring the question of seasonal relevance in an ever-changing environment, Miuccia Prada referenced Stravinsky's "The Rite of Spring," a masterpiece that caused a riot upon its debut. She mused on the consistent theme of seasons in art and fashion, stating, "The changing of seasons enables human beings to continue to look at the world with fresh eyes… Fashion aspires to the same effect of renewal."

Backstage, Miuccia Prada further elucidated her vision, emphasising a return to the tangible amid the contemporary chaos. "It was meant for going outside," she declared, acknowledging a yearning to connect with reality and human nature, emphasizing a departure from the norm of seasonless fashion. The collection embodied a desire to embrace the elemental and authentic, showcasing Prada's commitment to constant reinvention and the pursuit of timeless renewal.


As the ethereal glow illuminated the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Teatro, a breathtaking revelation unfolded—an immense lighthouse with a spinning lamp, casting its enchanting beam across the gathered connoisseurs of fashion. Giorgio Armani, the visionary behind the Emporio Armani collection, made a bold statement this season by presenting a co-ed ensemble, seamlessly blending men's and womenswear. In crafting this latest collection, Armani drew inspiration from the tumultuous sea in winter, imbuing the garments with an impulsive and adventurous spirit.

The collection paid homage to the fearless individuals navigating the high seas even in their most perilous state—sailors, cabin boys, engineers, and officers. Nautical motifs gracefully permeated the runway, from sailor hats and shirts to galosh-style gloves and boots. Broad-shouldered navy overcoats, characterised by a resolute strong shoulder, reinforced the maritime narrative that unfurled throughout the presentation.

A juxtaposed vision of "harbourside elegance" provided a canvas for Mr. Armani to indulge in the decadent glamour for which he is revered. The collection reached its climax with a series of opulent capes and tailored pieces, intricately adorned with rich embellishments and embroidery. Mr. Armani described the "decorative flavour" of these pieces, drawing inspiration from the layered incrustations found on the underside of ships—an artistic transformation that captivated in its arresting style. The Emporio Armani runway, with its fusion of nautical allure and sophisticated decadence, showcased the designer's ability to seamlessly marry adventurous themes with the timeless elegance that defines his illustrious brand.



Neil Barrett's triumphant return to Milan Fashion Week, after a noteworthy show last June, showcased the British designer's mastery of crisply defined minimalism. In a collection eloquently titled 'Heritage Innovation,' Barrett drew inspiration from iconic heritage garments, notably military uniforms, meticulously paring down the superfluous to craft a men's wardrobe of utmost precision.

For the Autumn/Winter 2024 season, Barrett delved into the realm of traditional British outdoor wear and Harris tweeds, presenting his distinctive interpretation labeled 'techno tweed.' Clean-lined single-breasted overcoats dominated the runway in tones of khaki, camel, and beige, accompanied by tab-fastening leather gloves and impeccably crafted riding boots. This meticulous attention to detail breathed life into the collection, a testament to Barrett's commitment to marrying tradition with contemporary flair.

The designer revisited what he aptly termed 'the uniforms of modern menswear,' presenting them in a remixed, redesigned, and rethought manner. Among the standout pieces was a covetable camel overcoat featuring epaulettes and folded military-style pockets—an embodiment of Barrett's clean-lined interpretation of the classic flight jacket. This particular piece encapsulated the core of the collection, seamlessly fusing heritage aesthetics with a modernist sensibility.

Neil Barrett's 'Heritage Innovation' stood as a testament to his ability to transform time-honored inspirations into a contemporary men's wardrobe, where each piece, meticulously curated, reflected a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation.


Silvia Venturini Fendi's latest menswear collection unveils a captivating mood board, with none other than Princess Anne as the regal muse, encapsulating the designer's signature playfulness and light-hearted approach to menswear. Drawing inspiration from British outdoor wear, a realm Princess Anne navigates with effortless grace, the collection unveils innovative takes on classic elements.

The pleated kilt, elegantly transformed into a culotte-style short, takes center stage alongside wax cotton jackets, all adorned with various plaids that evoke a regal yet contemporary spirit. Embracing Princess Anne's idiosyncratic style, the collection introduces unexpected elements, such as pounding sphere-shaped speakers—a collaboration with Devialet, adorned with the house's iconic double-F logo. This fusion of classic British aesthetics with futuristic accessories mirrors the distinctive style often associated with the royal.

The collection effortlessly straddles the realms of town and country, seamlessly blending outdoor-inspired looks with a touch of 'Roman decadence,' paying homage to Fendi's home city. Trompe l'oeil bombers crafted from soft shaved shearling, impeccably tailored leather overcoats, and a series of exquisite suits with a subtle glimmer of shine showcase the designer's prowess in navigating the fine line between casual and luxurious.

Silvia Venturini Fendi's menswear narrative unfolds as a celebration of heritage, innovation, and a whimsical play of influences. Each piece exudes a sense of regal charm intertwined with modern sophistication, capturing the essence of Fendi's rich legacy and its continuous evolution in the realm of high-end fashion.


Dolce & Gabbana, in a continued ode to refinement, embraces a mood of reduction that has gracefully defined the essence of the Italian house in recent seasons. Design maestros Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana articulate a profound desire to revisit the foundational ethos of their esteemed house, founded in 1985. The menswear narrative unfolds as a captivating fusion, marrying the impeccable sartorial artistry that has perennially graced their collections with the intoxicating sensuality synonymous with the brand.

Entitled 'Sleek,' this collection is heralded as a 'story of elegance and handmade... a sartorial essay,' predominantly presented in the house's iconic black palette. Casting an after-dark spell, the runway unveiled louche, diaphanous silk shirting—some elevated with high necklines and cinched waists adorned with cummerbunds, while others featured alluring pussy bow fastenings at the neckline. The tuxedo, a perennial highlight in Dolce & Gabbana's repertoire, underwent a mesmerising transformation, manifested in cropped or sleeveless variations. The elegant lines of the tuxedo inspired a series of impeccably cut overcoats, adding an extra layer of sophistication.

A subtle nod to the equestrian world surfaced in the form of narrow jodhpur-style trousers artfully tucked into riding boots, while worn denim jeans and jackets introduced a more casual note to the narrative. True to the designers' penchant for drama and abandon, the collection reached its crescendo with opulent faux fur overcoats and tailoring dripping with beads or paillettes, creating a symphony of extravagance and artistry.

Dolce & Gabbana's 'Sleek' collection stands as a testament to the brand's unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and allure. It eloquently navigates the delicate balance between timeless sartorial elegance and the seductive charisma that defines the spirit of the iconic fashion house.


In a subterranean spectacle staged on the platform of Porta Venezia metro station, Massimo Giorgetti unveiled his latest menswear show, a harmonious blend of high fashion and Milanese mid-century design. Amidst the procession of vibrant ensembles, an unexpected accessory made its debut – a chunk of the iconic curved handrail that has defined the city's underground system since 1964, a creation of the esteemed architect Franco Albini. Giorgetti, a devoted design enthusiast, collaborated with Albini's eponymous foundation for this unique project, elevating the distinctive curve of the handrail to a central motif in the collection.

The opening look adorned an overcoat with the symbolic curve, mirroring the trajectory of Milan's M1 metro line, inaugurated in the same monumental year. The choice of the metro as a thematic exploration was Giorgetti's ingenious means of delving into the 'frenetic' pace of modern life. Models, mobile phones clasped in hand, marched at a brisk pace across the runway, encapsulating the kinetic energy of urban existence.

True to MSGM's reputation for colorful eclecticism, the clothing itself unfolded as a vibrant tapestry of padded hoodies paired with matching pants, plush slippers, and tinsel-knit creations. The prints were a visual narrative of the Italian metro, captured through the lens of the Google Pixel phone, marking the initiation of a partnership with Google that will continue later in the year at Salone del Mobile. Giorgetti's MSGM menswear collection seamlessly marries avant-garde fashion with a rich celebration of Milanese design heritage, resulting in a visual symphony that transcends the boundaries of conventional runway presentations.



Stone Island defied convention for its inaugural runway showcase, transforming the traditional runway format into an immersive industrial tableau. As attendees entered the expansive industrial space, models were already present, meticulously arranged on an immense scaffolding structure, reminiscent of the brand's iconic advertising campaigns where models confront the camera against a stark white backdrop. However, in this instance, the models were framed by the scaffolding's metallic framework, visible through a captivating veil of dry ice.

The show, accompanied by a suitably reverberating techno soundtrack that resonated with Stone Island's historical ties to subcultures, unfolded as a mesmerising light show. Glitching, flashing lights illuminated the rows of models adorned in the brand's Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. The grand finale featured a dramatic descent of a black curtain, concealing the models while projecting Stone Island's compass logo—a symbol entrenched in the annals of street fashion.

Even if the curtain descended prematurely, as revealed post-show, it did little to diminish the spectacle. Instead, it heightened the allure, capturing the label's underground spirit. The collection showcased a diverse array of tech-infused, streetwear-inspired pieces, notably featuring jackets and joggers with a liquid, almost holographic sheen. Beyond the runway, Stone Island strategically aimed to tap into new markets through the amplification of social media impressions generated during the event.

Earlier in the day, Stone Island unveiled a Spring/Summer 2024 campaign boasting a notable lineup of personalities, including actor Jason Statham, choreographer Wayne McGregor, musician Dave, and emerging British tennis player Henry Searle. As journalists traversed Milan en route to the showcase, glimpses of the campaign were already dominating bus stops and billboards, foreshadowing the brand's ambitious foray into a new era marked by innovation and cultural resonance.



In a former factory space on the northern outskirts of Milan, Sabato De Sarno unveiled his debut menswear collection for Gucci, further refining his distinctive vision for the iconic house. Building upon the easy, insouciant sensuality that defined his inaugural womenswear collection last September, De Sarno delved into a narrative that seamlessly straddled pragmatism and glamour.

The collection embraced languid tailoring, floor-skimming overcoats, and iconic Gucci-adorned bomber jackets, punctuated by the return of the grey hoodie—a nod to contemporary street style. Elongated silk ties, crystal embellishments, and revamped versions of the chunky Marina Chain necklace, initially introduced in the womenswear collection, added opulence to the ensembles. De Sarno coined this as a 'mirroring effect,' aiming to capture the same emotional resonance seen in the casting, press notes declaring the pursuit of 'the joy of life,' and the evocative soundtrack featuring Mark Ronson's remix of Ancora Ancora Ancora by Mina.

This showcase affirmed De Sarno's comprehensive and cohesive vision for Gucci, promising an irresistibly seductive allure for discerning shoppers. However, it also marked a departure from the unrestrained maximalism associated with his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. With confident precision, De Sarno stripped away the extraneous elements, steering towards a discreet elegance infused with moments of 'joy, passion, and humanity'—the foundational pillars of his transformative journey at the helm of the revered Italian powerhouse. The collection stands as a testament to De Sarno's adept ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure, offering a new chapter in Gucci's storied history.

Saturday, January 13, 2024

Gucci Men’s Fall 2024

Sabato De Sarno insists he feels free to follow his own heart in shaping the new direction of Gucci — whatever opinion critics may have — and he believes many “are clamoring for novelty while at the same time are wary of major changes,” he said during a preview with WWD.

His confidence in his personal vision was reflected in his first men’s collection shown on Friday in Milan, which was aptly dubbed “mirroring” — as he reiterated his passion for words and artists that use words. This particular one was chosen because the men’s lineup mirrored his first women’s collection for Gucci shown last September “in a continuation and confirmation” of his previous choices, he said. The collections “are thought together” but coed shows are not an option at the moment. “I like dedicated moments for each” and choosing to launch many new faces on the runway, in “life-changing opportunities for the models,” the designer said.

The soundtrack and lighting at the location — although a different one from September — also contributed to this sense of mirroring with “Late night feeling” featuring Lykke Li and Mina’s “Ancora, ancora, ancora,” both arranged by Mark Ronson, with the addition of “Masculinity,” from French artist Lucky Love.

Examples of the continuum De Sarno championed were denim jeans worn under knits embroidered with crystals, and the luxurious leather jackets worn over minis by women and over short shorts by men, or the reptile car coats. Where women donned platform loafers, his men wore sturdy creepers.

The embroideries taken from Gucci’s 1950s clutches that inspired crosshatch crystal-covered baby-doll dresses were mirrored for men in artisanal, intricately crafted tank tops. Ditto for the fringed coats — after all, De Sarno likes to think of the Gucci man as “irreverent.” Snap hooks completed the looks on trenches that grazed the floor or silk scarves. But there was no trace of punk nostalgia, as this collection was mainly about sleek and luxurious designs, exemplified by the sartorial suits in two silhouettes, slim and close-fitting, paired with cropped trousers, occasionally with zipped side slits, or more relaxed and softer.

The devil is in the details, as double-breasted buttons were hidden in the sophisticated wool suits that showed lapels with intarsia piping in the same colors as the shirts worn underneath.

De Sarno is mindful of the brand’s core accessories business and offered a plethora of Jackie bags, also supersized, as were the totes and backpacks, the latter a personal favorite of the designer.

He introduced a new blurred GG monogram, slightly offset with a drop shadow to create a sense of 3D dimension shown in an allover motif on suits, slim scarves and bags in the new deep Rosso Ancora house color, brown or gray.

The Marina Chain jewelry from the late 1960s, captured by photographer David Sims in the Daria Werbowy preview last summer, was presented in silver — a strong statement necklace for men, too.

The red-and-green Gucci stripes peeked out of a back slit of a pea coat that was directly inspired by a Robert Redford photo on De Sarno’s mood board, most likely from the 1975 film “Three Days of the Condor” — it was cool then and remains a must-have today.

De Sarno confessed his dislike for cryptic messages and conceptualizing clothes. “It’s important to have a point of view, but everyone must be able to understand it,” he said.

With this collection, he stood by his words. So far his message has been appealing to his new high-profile friends, from Julia Garner to Taylor Swift, who both donned striking designs at the Golden Globes. As part of his mandate, De Sarno is meant to further elevate the luxury component of the collections, and in this he appears to be succeeding, and responding to a customer who is increasingly requesting timeless and high-quality artisanal products.

He is certainly ticking all the right boxes, with dad cardigans embellished with crystals, extra-long coats and tailored suits, so it will be interesting to see how his message translates into sales.