Monday, November 26, 2018

Camel, Taupe, Fawn, Honey: Riccardo Tisci Unpacks His Beige Proposition In First Burberry Pre-Fall Collection

If Riccardo Tisci’s debut spring/summer 2019 Burberry show was a mammoth 134-look exploration of the breadth of customers that his brand vision might appeal to, his first pre-fall 2019 collection is no less impressive.

“I wanted this collection to be a continuation of the story I began to tell in September,” Tisci told press of his second line for the house. “I’m focusing on establishing our codes through archive prints, house colours and iconic outerwear, while cementing the new themes I set out last season, including the Thomas Burberry monogram, eveningwear and tailoring.”

Sound vast? It is. Nowhere more so than the outerwear section, where trench coats, car coats, duffle coats, tuxedo jackets, parkas, Harrington jackets, puffer capes and tailored jackets all feature in multiple fabrications and colourways across menswear and womenswear. And, if you hadn’t previously appreciated the difference between archive beige, camel, warm taupe, pale fawn and warm honey within the muted spectrum, you certainly will now.


The TB bag, which was first introduced on Tisci’s inaugural Burberry runway, has stepped up a notch to include canvas and leather styles in varying hues, and a monogram leather style with a double chain strap. A new tote with a three-snap fastening, dubbed the Title bag, will also join Burberry's accessories line-up in May – but you'll have to wait until next year to see it.

On the footwear front, square-toe pumps, block-heel mules, T-bars and stretch-leather sock boots are interchangeable options to wear with the clothing in 50 shades of beige and stand-out scarf prints that punctuate the palette.

“I like merchandising collections,” Tisci told press in September. “I like making dreams, but I’m very real.” As the chief creative officer narrows his expansive Burberry outlook – remember that customers also have his monthly "B Series" drops and the collaboration with Vivienne Westwood to look forward to – there is still something for everyone in his dynamic follow-up.

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