Sunday, February 7, 2021

Fashion East Reveals Its Brilliant New Class Of 2021

The prestigious talent incubator is a hotbed for emerging designers and has helped launch the careers of Kim Jones, Jonathan Anderson, Simone Rocha, and more — here, it exclusively reveals its autumn/winter 2021 lineup.

Where do the best up-and-coming designers break out from in the UK? None other than London’s maverick talent incubator Fashion East. With alumni including Kim Jones, Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, and Mowalola Ogunlesi, to name but a few — the non-profit initiative is a hotbed of future fashion superstars.

Founded by Lulu Kennedy in 2000, Fashion East started out as a means for designers without the financial backing to showcase their creations. However, over the years, it has become the place to spot new names-to-know, and it’s a highlight on the London Fashion Week schedule, boasting a serious power-FROW where careers can be launched via a single Instagram post.

With the autumn/winter 2021 ready-to-wear season set to kick off next week, Fashion East has exclusively shared its new power lineup with Vogue. Alongside the three designers returning to show — Nensi Dojaka, Goom Heo and Maximilian — are two fresh faces: HRH and Jawara Alleyne. “I’m excited by this group of very diverse talents,” says Kennedy. “Not only for their refusal to stop creating under difficult circumstances but also their energy and optimism that they bring to the table.”


Who is on Fashion East’s AW21 lineup?

London-based accessories designer Hannah, who likes to go by her first name only, of HRH (formerly known as Monster Coat Club), explores the intricacy of technical sportswear in her creations. Be it figure skating or rhythmic gymnastics, her designs encompass an athletic sensibility with a healthy dose of playfulness in fabrication and embellishment. “Every accessory comes from a desire to create delightful things for those around me that I love,” says Hannah, 30. And who doesn’t need a bit of that right now?

“My work aims to share dreams,” says Caribbean-born, 29-year-old designer Jawara Alleyne. “To imagine a new future, it’s important for people of colour to have autonomy over telling their own narratives and to see themselves reflected through their own lenses.” A graduate of the prestigious MA fashion programme at Central Saint Martins, Alleyne explores the archetypal codes in menswear and redefines them with a sensitive touch.

Maximilian spring/summer 2021.

There’s plenty of excitement to be expected from the returnees, as well. There are the confidently sexy designs by Trinidadian-British, 25-year-old Maximilian Davis of Maximilian, the critically acclaimed breakout star of 2020 whose clothes have already been donned by Rihanna and A$AP Rocky. Then there’s the delicate layers of sheer silks in the works of Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka, 27, that serve both sensuality and strength. Meanwhile, Korean-born designer Goom Heo, 29, brings a romantic and off-kilter take on sportswear to men’s fashions.

Once again, this coming season, designers are expected to present in a virtual format, which, as always, brings up the challenge of cutting through the noise of content oversaturation. But for Fashion East’s class of 2021? Expect nothing less than brilliance — Hopkins, Alleyne, Davis, Dojaka and Heo will certainly captivate with their eagerly anticipated collections. The future is here and, as always, the fashion industry should be ready to take note.

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