Tuesday, February 20, 2018

What To Expect From The Autumn/Winter 2018 Shows At London Fashion Week

Last season, the contrast between the New York and London shows was striking. While designers were abandoning the American runways, the British show platform was flooded with brands from all walks of fashion. Things didn’t look up for New York this season, and as things go in this unpredictable fashion climate, it seems to be the same case in London. 

Most notably, Topshop is foregoing its traditional Unique show. Missing are last season’s Emporio Armani, Versus and Tommy Hilfiger shows, which didn’t just draw in the crowds but added such excellent tension between the fashion establishment and London’s experimental emerging designers in September. The city’s youth game, however, is still strong and unmatched in the competing capitals. This season, these designers are carrying the torch for London Fashion Week.

The Kids


On an early Saturday morning in September, Richard Quinn presented his debut show at a packed hall in Liberty. This season sees his sophomore offering where the young designer’s gimp masks and subversive floral prints will stand the test of progress.

Joining the emerging designer line-up is AV Robertson, who previously designed for Marc Jacobs and presented at Fashion East. On Monday evening, she is staging her first standalone presentation in the show format, marking the designer’s biggest independent outing to date. Dilara Findikogluenters the schedule with a Monday afternoon presentation, while fan favourite Matty Bovan – part of the line-up The Kids Are All Right in British Vogue’s January issue – takes the stage for his first fully individual show on Friday afternoon.

Finally, after taking the Emerging Womenswear Designer nod at the Fashion Awards in September (and dressing Adwoa Aboah for the occasion), Michael Halpern is orchestrating his biggest production to date when he unveils the perhaps most anticipated collection of the week.

The Grown-Ups


After seventeen years at Burberry, Christopher Bailey bids farewell to the house in a swan song show on Saturday evening.

But that’s not the only reason this show is a hot ticket. Over the past three seasons, Bailey has reinvigorated his work at Burberry and shown some of his best collections ever, upping the ante for his final bow.

Mulberry’s Johnny Coca detoured to Paris, the city he lives in, last September but on Friday afternoon he is back in the city that houses his office.

Hopping on the bandwagon of designers leaving New York, Delpozo is bringing its ball gowns to London, taking the place of Ralph & Russo, whose ready-to-wear show is missing from the schedule this season.

In line with the increasing New York trend of downsizing the show format to more intimate and interactive presentations, Pringle of Scotland is doing just that, perhaps giving designer Fran Stringer some breathing space after giving birth to her son Dylan in October.

Fuelling the changing show cycle, JW Anderson – whose usual men’s show didn’t appear on the London men’s schedule in January – is premiering his co-ed format this season, combining his women’s and men’s collections in one show.

David Koma, who quit his other job at Mugler last season, is set to blow some new life into his eponymous show when he relocates to an intimate new church venue, heralding a new era for the brand, which is now his sole focus.

We may be missing the guest designers of seasons past, but names like Erdem, Christopher Kane and Roksanda are still holding down the fort at London Fashion Week. And let’s not forget the celebrations: Matty Bovan and Gareth Pugh are hosting parties while Michael Halpern will will throw a soiree in collaboration with Browns on the night of his show. Sunday there’s one event to rule them all when Edward Enninful hosts a star-studded British Vogue BAFTA party to follow the award ceremony.

No comments:

Post a Comment