Swaddled in Lenki Lenki puffa jackets, Ukraine Fashion Week’s show-goers shuttled between Kiev’s former post office, a skating rink, and the main former Arsenal building to take in the autumn/winter 2018 collections. The question is now that the post-soviet fashion fervour has cooled, how do labels carve out the future? Brands with over 20 years history showed alongside young upstarts and taste for dapper tailoring, hard-edged glamour and innovative bricolage is the next chapter in style. Here’s our pick of the breakout talents.
The Sports Lux Redux
Patterned silk scarves and trailing sashes are also having a moment at Flow the Label which has new PR representation in the UK, and is gaining international stature. For AW18, Glen check jogger-bottomed suits, drawstring-tied all-in-ones and handkerchief hem silk skirts all in shades of buff, terracotta and pale blue featured in this gentle fusion of hunting and shooting style and boudoir delights.
The Provocateur
Gender politics and sexual provocation fascinates 24-year-old Ivan Frolov (a favourite of Lady Gaga) who combines punkish references with highly crafted burlesque glamour. Cricket sweater dresses with shredded hems were topped with pompadour wigs and gauntlet gloves whilst corseted bustiers (a best seller at Opening Ceremony), frilled tulle over-gowns and ingenious silicon coated lace corset dresses all had a wicked, subversive 1980s, new romantic air. The designer, who started his career at 14, took his cue from Parisian cabaret, Victorian music halls and 1970s punk and keeps the motto “intelligent provocation” at his core.
The Modern Tailor
Lake Studio (part of Moda Operandi’s fashion incubator programme) by Olesya Kononova and Anastasia Ribabokon is a three-year old brand with a forte in arty elegance. Cue long pencil skirted suits with bold shouldered jackets in soft tweed featuring a swirling half cape and hand painted abstract blooms on bias cut slip dresses.
The Denim Update
Ksenia Schnaider is making a name for herself in the denim arena and for autumn delivered a culotte-over-skinny-jean hybrid matched with patchwork tailored trucker jackets (made from found denim) and patchwork football jersey shirts – the attitude (check the baseball caps with the word “Corruption”) was sassy.
Ksenia Schnaider is making a name for herself in the denim arena and for autumn delivered a culotte-over-skinny-jean hybrid matched with patchwork tailored trucker jackets (made from found denim) and patchwork football jersey shirts – the attitude (check the baseball caps with the word “Corruption”) was sassy.
Joanna Bogdan debuted her first collection under the label SIX in a stage set clad with parking signage. It might serve as a neat metaphor for dodging the road blocks in fashion which Bogdan did her outsize blazers, top stitched wide legged trousers accessorised with silk bandana scarves and a parade of bricolage lace and silk print slips. “Six is my lucky number. The scarf idea was inspired by men, who will put on a cravat to dress up. I love that simplicity,” says Bogdan.
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