The final six were chosen for the potential they show in becoming a presence on the international fashion landscape, and were selected by a judging committee chaired by Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful OBE, and comprising industry experts including Caroline Rush CBE, Erdem Moralioglu, Jourdan Dunn, Sarah Mower, Label/Mix creative director Gemma Metheringham, Burberry chief marketing officer Sarah Manley, Harrods chief merchant Helen David, The Daily Telegraph's Lisa Armstrong, Rodial founder Maria Hatzistefanis, Topshop CEO Paul Price and JD.com president Xia Ding.
"The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is a hugely important initiative and I am thrilled to have chaired this year's committee," said Enninful. "Our shortlist is a true representation of the diverse and inspirational design talent we foster in the UK, and I'm excited to see who will impress us as we move forward."
The prize, which is supported by Vogue, Burberry, Harrods, JD.com, Label/Mix, Paul Smith, Rodial and Topshop, has been previously won by Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto and Sophia Webster. Last year the £200,000 grant, which helps build the necessary infrastructure to progress the winner's business plan, was shared by two recipients, Mother of Pearl and palmer//harding. For 2018 - the 10th anniversary of the fund - it will return to its original format and award one brand the total sum.
"It is a very exciting shortlist which shows the breadth of talent we have here in the UK," commented chief executive of the British Fashion Council, Rush. "All shortlisted designers are incredibly talented and have the potential to become the UK's next global fashion house. We are very excited to work with Edward and welcome our new judging committee members and funders who are joining Burberry, Topshop and Paul Smith who have supported the fund since its inception."
The next phase of the competition will take place on March 15, when the shortlisted designers will be interviewed by the fund judging committee. The winner will be announced on May 8th 2018 would mean to them.
Molly Goddard
“It's really exciting that this year the fund has opened to younger businesses and I'm thrilled to be shortlisted,” says Molly Goddard. Her eclectic tulle princess dresses have won the heart of Rihanna, who buys multiples of Molly’s frothy frocks at once, but the Ladbroke Grove-based designer wants to know “how to grow a sustainable fashion brand with longevity - how to combine creativity and commercial innovation while maintaining a clear identity and staying true to the initial spirit”. The £200,000 fund, she explains, would enable her to “grow by building the team, providing us with the capacity and expertise to expand into new product categories and territories”
Le Kilt
For Le Kilt's Sam McCoach, the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund would mean "education and staff". "I would like to explore new ways of promoting the longevity of clothing through educational workshops - both with school-age children, and partnering with cultural institutions nationwide," she explains.
McCoach, who founded Le Kilt in 2014 with a vision of modernising the traditional kiltmaking techniques of her grandmother, is on a mission to safeguard the survival of her heritage, and promote buying less, buying quality garments and making them last. The prize money would grant her wish to "open a small retail space featuring a revolving array of work from textiles to craft all made and sourced in the UK", while the mentorship would throw up some valuable financial advice. "As a small brand it is often a challenge to know which areas to invest in," she clarifies.
Marques' Almeida
"We have an incredible list of things we want to do, creatively and business-wise within the brand, but also helping to shape fashion to be more inclusive, more realistic and more responsible," Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida tell Vogue. The Portuguese duo, who established shredded denim as their fashion calling card upon launching in 2011, would use the fund to secure global PR representation, enhance the brand's e-commerce output and develop a reliable supply chain. "There's a big restructuring starting to happen in our supplier," they note. "We need to focus on staying controlled and being less reliant on third parties."
Huishan Zhang
McCoach, who founded Le Kilt in 2014 with a vision of modernising the traditional kiltmaking techniques of her grandmother, is on a mission to safeguard the survival of her heritage, and promote buying less, buying quality garments and making them last. The prize money would grant her wish to "open a small retail space featuring a revolving array of work from textiles to craft all made and sourced in the UK", while the mentorship would throw up some valuable financial advice. "As a small brand it is often a challenge to know which areas to invest in," she clarifies.
Marques' Almeida
"We have an incredible list of things we want to do, creatively and business-wise within the brand, but also helping to shape fashion to be more inclusive, more realistic and more responsible," Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida tell Vogue. The Portuguese duo, who established shredded denim as their fashion calling card upon launching in 2011, would use the fund to secure global PR representation, enhance the brand's e-commerce output and develop a reliable supply chain. "There's a big restructuring starting to happen in our supplier," they note. "We need to focus on staying controlled and being less reliant on third parties."
Huishan Zhang
“There are still many vital elements we’re missing to help us be more productive,” Chinese-born, London-based designer Huishan Zhang tells Vogue. “With the store launch last year, the next step and missing piece is e-commerce. The money would be crucial to help us achieve a modern, versatile website, so we can reach our customers all over the world.”
On how the Central Saint Martins graduate, who cut his teeth at Dior and founded his eponymous brand in 2011, would utilise the mentor scheme, he says: “I would ask advice on how best to juggle the shift from wholesale business to retail, and how to leverage the store through personal shopping. As my brand is split between two cities, any insight on how to time manage would also be very beneficial.”
Rejina Pyo
“Last year was amazing, having my baby Luka, the Fashion Awards nomination for Best Emerging Designer, and now this. I feel very grateful and humbled,” Rejina Pyo shares. The Korean-born, London designer, who formerly assisted Roksanda Ilincic, is “currently opening a second office in Seoul”, and would use the fund to “grow the team, hire more designers and expand the accessories lines, which launched last year". A menswear line, she teases, could also be on the horizon, but for now, "developing our own branded content while growing organically" is top of the womenswear agenda.
David Koma
"The brand has been growing at a very healthy pace for the past few years," says Georgian-born, London-based David Koma, whose body-contouring dresses have become a favourite of Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez and Maria Sharapova across the Atlantic. "We have built a solid structure to the company, but now is the right time to push things forward, to expand and take it to the next level."
The fund, for Koma, "would help us launch e-commerce to have a more direct approach with clients and a broader market reach". He's not afraid of critiquing what he has built so far, though: "I would love to get advice on the brand's existing strategy, mainly focusing on the sales-and-marketing side of the business," he says.
On how the Central Saint Martins graduate, who cut his teeth at Dior and founded his eponymous brand in 2011, would utilise the mentor scheme, he says: “I would ask advice on how best to juggle the shift from wholesale business to retail, and how to leverage the store through personal shopping. As my brand is split between two cities, any insight on how to time manage would also be very beneficial.”
Rejina Pyo
“Last year was amazing, having my baby Luka, the Fashion Awards nomination for Best Emerging Designer, and now this. I feel very grateful and humbled,” Rejina Pyo shares. The Korean-born, London designer, who formerly assisted Roksanda Ilincic, is “currently opening a second office in Seoul”, and would use the fund to “grow the team, hire more designers and expand the accessories lines, which launched last year". A menswear line, she teases, could also be on the horizon, but for now, "developing our own branded content while growing organically" is top of the womenswear agenda.
David Koma
"The brand has been growing at a very healthy pace for the past few years," says Georgian-born, London-based David Koma, whose body-contouring dresses have become a favourite of Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez and Maria Sharapova across the Atlantic. "We have built a solid structure to the company, but now is the right time to push things forward, to expand and take it to the next level."
The fund, for Koma, "would help us launch e-commerce to have a more direct approach with clients and a broader market reach". He's not afraid of critiquing what he has built so far, though: "I would love to get advice on the brand's existing strategy, mainly focusing on the sales-and-marketing side of the business," he says.
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