Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Liberty London Launches Ready-To-Wear By Former McQueen Designer

Liberty London has launched its first in-house ready-to-wear collection by newly appointed head of design Holly Marler. Formerly at Temperley and Alexander McQueen, under Lee McQueen, the storied retailer did its homework when it came to signing up the designer. Charming details are her calling card, and have come to fruition on the first 45-piece spring collection, which will be priced from £395 to £995 (with a handful of showpieces up to £4,000) when it launches in-store in October.

“Holly’s hand is naturally very romantic and feminine,” Amelia Hornblow, director of product at Liberty London, tells Vogue. “From there it was easy – we both wanted to create special but wearable dresses. She told me that the woman in these dresses would feel comfortable and confident that she’s the best dressed in the room.”

Hornblow and Marler speak often of Liberty London’s “artistic shopper”. “She’s an eclectic collector of beautiful things,” says Hornblow. “We created this collection for a mindset, not necessarily for an age or specific women. I imagine her to appreciate the colours and craft of each piece and collect them as heirlooms.”


On Marler’s moodboard were images of Dorothea Tanning, Lee Miller, Eileen Agar and members of the Bloomsbury set, who lived their lives through their love of the creative process. “Lee [McQueen] loved re-telling old stories in a new way,” Marler says of how her former mentor inspired her process. It’s no surprise that she got on famously with Anna Buruma, Liberty London’s archivist, who regaled her with “wonderful stories full of humour and eccentricity” while examining a cross section of the retailer’s 45,000 prints.

While previous Liberty London collaborators, including Richard Quinn and Richard Malone, have borrowed the brand’s signature florals, Marler has woven textures and techniques, such as embroideries and appliqués, into the skirts, shirts, knitwear, jackets and two-pieces that complement the dresses. The autumn drop (there will be four seasonal launches) will expand to include outerwear and tailoring with a drive towards sustainable methods of bringing elements, such as Liberty’s first lace, to the mainstream.

“It felt very natural to us,” Hornblow asserted of why now, in an ever-competitive fashion sphere, is the right time to launch Liberty London Collection (the label’s official name). “We have seen our customers wear our pyjamas as ready-to-wear, so this was an obvious next move. It’s the perfect storytelling for our heritage.” Judging by the number of iPhones taking pictures of the silk headdresses and cotton scarf-embellished shoes at the preview on June 11, the press agrees too.

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