Rachel Brosnahan's Erdem Met Gala Gown Is An Acidic Tribute To Cross-Dressing And Italian Aristocracy

Erdem Moralıoğlu is feeling particularly pleased with the Met Gala 2019 look he has created for his friend Rachel Brosnahan. Not simply because he loves the “wonderful frivolity and silliness” of this year’s “camp” theme – which overlaps into much of the history and pastiche that inspires him – but, for the special reason that the designer and his date will be able to view two custom Erdem looks in the Camp: Notes on Fashion exhibition itself.

The bespoke creations behind the museum’s glass cases are based on look 26 in Erdem’s spring/summer 2019 collection – or, the “Stella and Fanny show,” as Erdem affectionately calls it. Andrew Bolton, head curator of the Met’s Costume Institute, decided to dedicate a section in the exhibit to the two Victorian cross-dressers – birth names Ernest Boulton and Frederick Park – who were arrested for their behaviour. Erdem happily obliged and revisited their stories. Incidentally, look 26 – a periwinkle-blue gown with an abundance of ruffles and fabulous exaggerated shoulders – is the same dress Madonna chose to wear for the album artwork of Madame X.

Back to his “extraordinary” date, Brosnahan, who he became acquainted with when creating her BAFTAs 2019 dress. “What’s wonderful about the Met is that it’s very much about the designer and the muse who has entered their world,” says Erdem. “I imagine that for Rachel, it’s almost like being an actor taking on a big ballgown as her character.”

The tiered organza gown, covered in delicately embroidered roses, is a custom version of look 19 in Erdem’s autumn/winter 2019 collection, which was inspired by the unusual life of Italian Princess, Donna Orietta Doria-Pamphilj-Landi. “I loved the idea of doing something bright,” he explains of the thought process behind the palette. “This acidic fuchsia gown with 7ft train is wonderful because it has Victorian-esque coverage, but it’s completely backless with a strange kind of ruff that I hope will look really beautiful.”

Of his collaborator, who he has been texting and Skyping for months, Erdem says the Marvellous Mrs Maisel actor is “interesting”, “reactive” and “knows exactly what she likes“. He is buzzing about getting ready together. “I love the [Met] ball, because it’s a celebration of fashion and what we all collectively do as designers,” he smiles. “And for me, it’s wonderful, because it brings the whole story of Stella and Fanny full circle.”