Thursday, September 30, 2021

Facts You Didn't Know About Paris Fashion Week

As the birthplace of Haute Couture, master ateliers, and the modern fashion show as we know it, the city of lights is hailed as the epicenter of fashion for a reason. While the fashion showing has existed for around 170 years, the catwalk extravaganza we know today came to life in the '70s and has since acted as a biannual reminder of the historical influence Paris has on fashion and culture as a whole. Through a series of audacious runways and elaborate spectacles, the reputation of Paris Fashion Week continues to cultivate a grandiose theatricality in its shows built on the backs of history's great couturiers. As Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021 rolls out, CR uncovers some of its most fascinating facts, and how it all began.

Défilés de mode or "fashion showings” were held in Paris as early as the 18th century as a commercial exchange between clients and designers. The garments were initially shown on stiff mannequins making it difficult for clients to see how the garment would hang on the body in real life. It wasn't until the 1850s when the father of Haute Couture, Charles Frederick Worth, first toyed with the idea of presenting his pieces on women in action–and thus, the role of fashion model was born.


Haute Couture houses are determined based on a set of rules predicated by the standards of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. According to these rules, a house must present a collection of at least 35 pieces (including both daytime and evening wear) per season. Established in 1945, this mandate paved way for the first concept of fashion week, a biannual affair of the top Haute Couture houses.

The first Paris Fashion Week took place on November 28, 1973 and was supervised by the founder of New York Fashion Week, Eleanor Lambert. This event was was the first time that collections of Haute Couture, prêt-à-porter, and menswear were showcased together in Paris. The event was held as a fundraiser at the Palace of Versailles in an effort of covering the cost of renovating the royal residence, which was estimated at around $60 million.


The first Paris Fashion Week commenced a fashion mega-rivalry bookmarked in fashion history. Comprising the most prestigious designers; five American–Anne Klein, Bill Blass, Halston, Oscar de la Renta, and Stephen Burrows; and five French designers–Marc Bohan for Christian Dior, Emanuel Ungaro, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, and Yves Saint Laurent, the teams were pitted against each other in creating eight pieces to represent French and American fashion. The event garnered over 700 people, including a star-studded guest list featuring Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, and Liza Minelli. A fierce competition, the transcontinental fair was dubbed "The Battle of Versailles."

At "The Battle of Versailles," American designers collectively convened for one runway show. Of 36 models casted, 11 of them were Black models which was an unprecedented number at the time. Their use of diversity stole the show and left the crowds in awe of the spectacle.

In 1984, Thierry Mugler became the first fashion designer to give the French public access to a fashion show. In celebration of the house's 10th anniversary, Mugler orchestrated a grandiose runway performance for his Fall/Winter 1984 collection. Held at le Zénith stadium in front of a paying audience of over 6,000 people, the runway show marked the first fashion show open to the public.


Through his appointment of Creative Director at both Chanel and Fendi, the late Karl Lagerfeld created quite the spectacle when it came to fashion month. From building out an entire casino to staging a makeshift rocket launchpad, Lagerfeld knew a thing or two about putting on a show to captivate attention. Perhaps the most creative display of all, for his Fall/Winter 2014 show the house created a Chanel supermarket composed of real products, shopping carts, and fruit stands.

Paris Fashion Week shows happen across a number of historical monuments, and top designers vie on magnificent settings to bring a bit of magic to their runways. Many times, houses have specific locations where their show is hosted each year. Le Grand Palais is the venue of choice for Chanel, Le Musée Rodin hosts Dior shows in the garden, and the Louvre is home to Louis Vuitton's shows. The Eiffel Tower has become a point of interest over the years with Saint Laurent staging several dazzling shows underneath the iconic Parisian monument.


Despite the presence of the fashion's top names, various smaller small-scale designers also participate in Paris Fashion Week. Eager to grow and connect, less-established brands often host a showroom and attend appointments with clients, buyers, and the press to establish their presence.

In the early 1900s, French designer Paul Poiret became the first to host lavish parties after his shows to market his collections. Nowadays, celebrity-studded after parties with an anyone who's anyone guest list are a tradition for established designers to communicate with friends, business partners, clients, and members of the press in an informal, playful environment (invitation-only, of course).
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