It’s been forty years since Giorgio Armani launched his younger line, Emporio Armani. And while turning forty perhaps doesn’t rhyme with youth culture, the anniversary serves as a reminder of the timeless endurance embodied by the eagle-eyed brand. “Young people of every generation have their particular and peculiar obsessions. Perhaps where fashion is concerned, what was different back in 1981 was that street style was something new – Emporio Armani seemed like a disruptive new code, and actually immediately became a social phenomenon,” Armani wrote in an email ahead of the anniversary show in Milan. “Today, I am happy that Emporio Armani still speaks to the younger generations, who still respond to its metropolitan energy and vitality. The virtues I’d like to show is a certain freedom: clothing used as tools of personal expression, with the trademark Armani pared-down, soulful simplicity.”
Armani said the youth brand still serves its original purpose
The anniversary show reiterated the democratic spirit of Emporio Armani, opening with a series of denim looks. “I started the Emporio line in 1981 because I saw there was a gap in the market. There was a hunger from younger people for something new and fresh, and that was what I wanted to offer them. I started with jeans and then expanded into a complete line that was like a container. It brought a new democracy and openness to my world,” Armani said. “Today, the brand has widened its purpose, and its audience: youth today is a state of mind. The spirit is bold; metropolitan.”
Describing the exhibition he has created for the anniversary in the Armani/Silos, Armani spoke about that Emporio Armani spirit as “a phenomenon that is not just fashion, but is more about style.” Charting the history of the brand through contemporary expressions, the anniversary collection was defined by casual tailoring, workwear, sportswear, and day and disco dresses that had the ease and approachability about them young people could always expect from Emporio Armani. “This is exactly what I hope to bring into the future,” Armani said: “A democratic, progressive, inclusive spirit.”
The Emporio Armani Magazine will come out in a special edition
Armani was one of the first designers to brave the idea of a more affordable line, trusting that expanding his accessibility wouldn’t harm his image as a luxury brand. Along with the line, he launched a magazine dedicated to the world of Emporio Armani – the first of its kind – recognising the community spirit that drew young people to dressing in certain brands. Marking the anniversary, Armani is launching a special-edition, one-off issue of the magazine. “We were the first brand to produce content with the magazine, and I am back at doing it. My sister Rosanna is the editor-in-chief, like she was back in the day, and has collaborated with a group of young creatives,” he explained.
Emporio Armani remains monumental
In mainstream culture, Emporio Armani has been characterised by its impressive branding techniques and large-scale presence. Anyone who has ever landed in Linate Airport will know the massive eagle-winged logo hovering over the hangar, which welcomes you to Milan (and reminds you who rules this city). “I think the big scale – the monumental scale, sometimes – is what really defines the language of Emporio, which is very bold and very direct in terms of communication. I’m thinking about the big billboards in via Broletto in Milano and yes, also about the Linate airport show, which was such a big event and had a huge impact on the city,” Armani said, referring to his spring/summer 2019 show. “Whatever we do, it is always something that hits the eye of the public in a very direct way. The new collection, however, is not an homage,” he pointed out. “It keeps the free, wandering spirit.”
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