“Humble” actually equates to a 15-piece eveningwear collection of classic tuxedos, coats, silk blouses and accessories. The capsule was inspired by close (read: iconic) friends of the brand, including Patti Smith, Jane Birkin, Charlotte Rampling and Grace Coddington, who championed Smith’s burgeoning menswear offering in the ’70s as something women could also wear, and prompted Smith to launch his womenswear collection in 1998.
But, Smith muses, he has always been a fan of the tux for women. “When Mr Saint Laurent came up with the idea of a women's trouser suit, I was 21 and living in Paris – I was actually there!” he remembers. “I’ve always thought it was a great piece of clothing for a modern girl – there’s movement, pockets…”
As you’d expect from a man whose brand is built on tailoring, the cuts of his new suits are precise – and flattering. “I like to respect the female form, so that means jackets that are slim through the ribcage with sharp shoulders and high armholes,” says Smith. “There are a lot of pretend tuxedos out there – which are normally just the style with a satin lapel – but ours use a fabric called barathea. It’s substantial and full of energy.”
It was at night school in his hometown of Nottingham that Smith learnt about the material. The tailoring skills he learned there were focused on ceremonial dress for the armed forces, rather than office or red carpet-wear. “It’s really interesting, because those suits were all about making a person look powerful, strong and slim,” he shares. “So, the cut of these tuxedos makes you look important.”
The day the collection dropped, the brand sold five suits straight away. Who are these female customers who make up 25 per cent of Paul Smith sales? “Generally speaking, my clothes are worn by people who are not seeking attention,” he offers. “A lot of designers’ clothes are very confrontational. Mine are discreet, laid-back and wearable.”
Like the gentleman he is, Smith worries about the brands who splash shouty logos on their wares. “My prediction is that in five years time, these labels won’t be as important as they are now, because they've gone down the obvious route. I think one of the reasons we're still doing OK is because we've never really worked on logos.”
Like the gentleman he is, Smith worries about the brands who splash shouty logos on their wares. “My prediction is that in five years time, these labels won’t be as important as they are now, because they've gone down the obvious route. I think one of the reasons we're still doing OK is because we've never really worked on logos.”
Smith's legions of loyal followers who rely on Paul Smith tailoring for its classicism – and rather fabulous silky inners – will attest otherwise. Plus, the fact that Smith stands proud as the owner of one of Britain’s few independent brands that enjoy international success is also testament to his understanding of what it takes to endure in an industry searching for newness. “It's a business, you have to give 100 per cent or nothing,” he opines. “You can't muck about.”
His parting comment about how to wear his tuxedo collection this party season is equally to the point. “Just wear it,” he concludes. "The great thing about it is that you can wear it in any way you want. Jane [Birkin] would wear it with Converse. Patti [Smith] would wear it with an old Joy Division T-shirt. So, just play with it.”
No comments:
Post a Comment