How Glenn Martens Is Reimagining Diesel

When it was announced last October that Glenn Martens would be taking the creative helm at Diesel, some eyebrows were raised in curiosity. Co-founded in 1978 by Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso and designer Adriano Goldschmied (Rosso later became the sole owner in 1985), Diesel has pioneered unconventional denim fabrications and thought-provoking advertising campaigns. So, could Martens, recognized for his innovative approaches to the material, be the off-kilter match made in fashion heaven that the lifestyle brand has been waiting for?

“I had a lot to learn at the beginning,” Martens says of his new appointment. “I’ve never been creative director of such a big company.” The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp alumni — who’s headed up Paris-based label Y/Project since 2013 and won the ANDAM Award in 2017 — is known for his avant-garde silhouettes that push sartorial boundaries. And, lest we forget, collaborative projects that almost break the internet (Rihanna’s infamous tigh-high Ugg boots spring to mind).

So, what did Martens want to bring to Diesel? “We will never pretend to be a luxury house,” he says. “We are an alternative to luxury.” Ahead of his collection lunch on 21 June, Vogue caught up with the designer to talk about his debut, how he’s found working across two different brands, and why the future of fashion is genderless.

How did your interest in fashion and clothing come about?

Glen Martens: “I come from Bruges, Belgium, a little museum town, and since I was a child I was obsessed with history. I was always drawing historical figures like kings and queens, and most of the attention was on the clothes.”

What’s your earliest memory of Diesel and how did it feel to be appointed creative director?

G.M: “Diesel was the first brand I consciously bought when I was 15 because I thought that was the brand to wear to be cool and sexy. It’s a big brand with a powerful message that speaks to every single person in the world, beyond fashion. It comes with social responsibility and that was the most exciting thing for me.”

What’s your take on Diesel and its aesthetic?

G.M: “For me, it’s about being sexy, optimistic, active, and focusing on denim. But it also has a fun factor with many twists.”

What was it like to transition into this new role during the pandemic?

G.M: “It was easy because I could focus without all the external meetings. We were fully concentrated and everything happened way faster than I expected. There was so much information to digest, but I’ve gotten there now.”

Working with two brands in different cities, how do you split your time and creativity?

G.M “It’s nice because they’re different brands. Diesel is more blunt and straightforward. At Y/Project, we have 25 people at our headquarters, whereas Diesel has 900. I spend three days a week in Italy and the rest in Paris. The travel is super chill because I live so close to the airport.

“The languages are different between Y/Project and Diesel — there’s more of a focus on the fabric than the construction [at Diesel]. But, of course, there’s always versatility because that’s just what I do. There’s a bit of playfulness, definitely, but it’s easy to wear.”

Tell us about the new Diesel collection. What can we expect to see (and want)?

G.M: “It's a global collection built for different markets. The first will have twists on essential denim pieces, such as the classic five-pocket. The second is activewear and workwear. The last is experimental pieces that push craftsmanship, which is a bit more luxury, but made entirely out of leftover materials from our warehouse.”

How does the film unfold? Who did you collaborate with to bring this project to life?

G.M: “We don’t want to pretend to be a classic fashion house. This is not a runway video — it really is a film and it’s trippy. It’s shot by artist Frank Lebon, art directed by Christopher Simmonds, and styled by Ursina Gysi — people I’ve worked within the past who I wanted to take on this journey with me. Everybody's very excited.”

Can you tell me a little about Diesel Library and the ethos behind it?

G.M: “The library will be a collection of essential pieces that you wear in everyday life. The whole supply chain has been adapted, meaning our treatments involve no bleaching and we use minimum water — even the way we sew has changed. Where the fabrics are made will be entirely transparent with a note on the inside pockets and a QR code to explain [information about the item].”

Lastly, you’re showing men’s and women’s together — why did you opt to show co-ed?

G.M: “Everyone should wear what they want. Our denim is genderless, and the new collection itself is co-ed and fluid. Historically, Diesel is a menswear brand, but my goal is to broaden that.”