You only needed to watch the Hermès live stream to see how grateful fashion’s show-goers are to be back in action this weekend in Paris. There we were, some hundred of us, gathered outside in the courtyard of Mobilier National, gleefully watching a fashion show in the pouring rain. For all the spectacular films we’ve seen during the pandemic period – Hermès’s productions very much included – no digital or cinematic experience could replace the feeling of a live fashion show: the atmosphere, the excitement, the music, the movement. And so, we put on the complimentary ponchos provided by the entrance and let it rain.
Véronique Nichanian called it “a new elegance”
In a way, the weather gods couldn’t have planned it better. Underpinned by the collective memory of what we’ve been through, Véronique Nichanian’s collection was characterised by an unquestionable optimism expressed in super light, super bright and super easy-going garments that had a sense of drive to them. Sure, they were walking through the rain, but with an optimism and determination that was so infectious. “After Covid, I think we’ll find a new way to dress. We’ll rediscover the way to dress seductively and smartly, but in the same way, keeping the comfort and feeling of new materials. I think we’re inventing a new elegance,” she said after the show.
It was post-pandemic appropriate
Throughout lockdown, the collections Nichanian has presented digitally have made a lot of sense. As we’ve been grounded by the pandemic, the virtues of permanence, timelessness and quality embodied by Hermès echo the shift of values many have experienced during this momentous moment in time. Now, as things are looking up and we’re sensing a return to normality, the kind of clothes Nichanian creates feel more appropriate than ever. From the subtle charm of her print silk tops to the sharp ease of a roomy technical trouser, the collection hit a balance between restraint and exuberance that seemed just right. Add to that the gift of reversible two-in-one garments like Nichanian’s parkas, and your conscious post-pandemic shopping awareness couldn’t ask for more.
The set was created by Cyril Teste
Like Nichanian’s digital presentations, this one – which you might call phygital – was created in collaboration with the theatre director Cyril Teste, who fitted the courtyard of the Mobilier National with a triangular platform framed by screens, adjacent to the live audience. Honouring the live-streamed aspect of the show (which still counts for the vast majority of guests) the massive screens broadcast every angle the models were shot from while walking, effectively creating an outdoor, digital house of mirrors that felt very arresting. “It’s a runway installation,” Nichanian explained, beaming. “I just feel so happy to meet people again, and have a runway again.”
Nichanian believes in optimistic dressing
Asked if she believes in the power of optimistic dressing, Nichanian didn’t hesitate. “Yes, of course!” She gestured at the poncho-clad crowd of show-goers around her: “I’m with optimistic people right here, in the rain!” To her guests, the feeling was mutual. It can be hard to put the emotional aspect of a live fashion show into words, especially for a brand like Hermès, which doesn’t try to push your emotional buttons with grandiose productions or sentimental soundtracks. But while Nichanian’s aren’t the type of shows that make people cry, there’s something so special about the Hermès show. A fashion institution embodied by a physical experience, it’s a seasonal tradition we wouldn’t miss for the world.
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