Wednesday, December 20, 2017

The Sustainable New Denim Line We Want Now

There is a new era of sustainability in fashion. No longer is such a word exclusively associated with hand-hewn hemp or hessian sacking, but simply with the understanding that, if we don’t start changing our patterns of consumption pretty soon, our collective futures will be in question. Brands from Gucci to Prada are investing in new models of corporate responsibility – but even more remarkable is the fact that this movement is being driven by emerging talent in the industry.

Samantha McCoach is one of those young pioneers: her brand, Le Kilt, is rooted in that fabulous adage of Vivienne Westwood: “buy less, choose well, make it last.” Inspired by the traditional kiltmaking techniques that she learned from her grandmother, the Scottish designer explains that, “We believe that the passing down of family values is connected to how we buy clothes. Quality and understanding make us want to care for clothing and ensure its longevity.” While, up to this point, those clothes have revolved around traditional kilts and hand-made knitwear, now her young label is branching into the domain of denim.


This week heralds the standalone launch of her line of classic denim pieces (they first debuted at Sarah Mower's emerging talent curation at Liberty). This line comprises a pair of jeans, a dress, a jacket and a skirt, all made locally in an east London factory (Blackhorse Lane Ateliers who, incidentally, are also worth further investigation: they create and sell brilliant denim of their own). Created with entirely raw and unwashed denim – to reduce the abundant water waste that goes into most denim production – each piece is hand-finished and made to last, as well as being remarkably designed.

At Vogue, we’re particularly coveting the sharp-tailored denim jacket (which sits perfectly over thick knitwear and under a big winter coat) and the perfectly-cut midi skirt. Worn together, they are double denim at its very best – and, perhaps most importantly, won’t require replacement in a couple of months. We’ll say it again, when it comes to fashion, we’re in Westwood’s camp. Go off cost-per-wear, and invest in pieces that last. These are some of those.

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