Molly Goddard Wins The BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund

“The brand just happened. I never even decided to call it ‘Molly Goddard’. I should have named it something wild!” Jourdan Dunn and Molly Goddard, styled by Jack Borkett for the June issue of British Vogue.

After months of articulating points of difference, drawing up business plans and presenting collections to an expert panel of judges, the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund has been awarded to Molly Goddard.

The 29-year-old designer took home the top prize of £200,000 and a year-long mentoring scheme, impressing judges with her sharp focus and strong work ethic. She saw off competition from Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques Almeida, Huishan Zhang, Rejina Pyo, Samantha McCoach of Le Kilt, and David Koma.

The judging panel, chaired by Vogue’s editor-in-chief Edward Enninful OBE, and comprising industry heavyweights including the British Fashion CouncilCEO Caroline Rush CBE, Jourdan Dunn, Burberry chief marketing officer Sarah Manley, Harrods chief merchant Helen David, Label/Mix creative director Gemma Metheringham, Sarah Mower, JD.com president Xia Ding, Rodial founder Maria Hatzistefanis, Topshop CEO Paul Price and designer Erdem Moralioglu, were convinced that Goddard deserved to take home the 2018 prize, the 10th anniversary of the fund.

Edward Enninful said: "Molly Goddard is an original. She has a singular vision and an extraordinary focus that has propelled her label to an international level. A playful edge and a strong DNA make for a singularly off-beat formula. She is the definition of talent and what Britain does best in this creative industry."

Goddard’s win seals an impressive year for the designer, who is proud of the fact that she has never relied on outside investment. She launched her brand in 2014 on a shoestring, and jokes that she is one of the most frugal designers in the business. “We made money from making and selling clothes. It’s hard,” she told Vogue. “It is difficult to not owe anyone money and not to lose any money – that in itself is an achievement. We decided to just take it really slowly, and it’s amazing that it worked.”

Now based in east London with a tiny team of four, Goddard’s fan base is steadily expanding as her repertoire of pretty-not-prissy tulle dresses swells to include meticulously smocked mini dresses and voluminous gowns, as well as gauzy separates and statement sweaters. Asked what has proved the best nugget of business advice, she said: “The big thing is structure and staff, making sure everyone is happy.” Is she good with numbers? “I think I’m just quite tight! I hate wasting things. If fabric is £40 a metre it bores me – there’s something so fussy about it from the off. I like something that’s £10 a metre or £6 a metre, then you can pleat it and gather it…it’s not about preciousness.”

Success was never guaranteed. Goddard only started her brand at the behest of her boyfriend, Tom. “I failed my masters, I had nothing to show for those two years, and I needed something, imagery, so I could get a job,” she recalled. “I did the party presentation” – a get-together of friends, wearing her clothes – “because I thought I’d get a job. But then we got orders. I didn’t have any set-up so it was just me, sewing away. Then, it’s like, ‘Molly Goddard, the brand!’ and I think, God, I never even decided that that’s what I wanted to call it! I should have named it something wild.”

The prize, which is supported by Vogue, Burberry, Harrods, JD.com, Label/Mix, Paul Smith, Rodial and Topshop, will allow Goddard to add to her team – “I’d love to hire someone who can help with product development” – and to develop her digital presence. “I want to make the best of everything – more interesting, more exciting clothes!”