Thursday, September 29, 2016

Tomas Maier On 15 Years At The Top

Tomas Maier was the toast of Milan this weekend as he celebrated his 15-year anniversary at Bottega Veneta, which itself was celebrating the big 5-0. As such, he took the opportunity to throw a well-deserved celebration - one that started at his show on Saturday, starring the inimitable Lauren Hutton walking hand-in-hand with Gigi Hadid in an emotional finale, and stretched long into the night at the Accademia di Brera, Milan, where Kering CEO Francois Henri Pinault hosted an exclusive dinner for long-term creative director Maier. We caught up with the man of the hour to talk birthdays, see now buy now, and how he takes a break from Bottega.

How does it feel to be at the brand as it celebrates its 50th year?

"I like looking back to what we’ve been able to build and I couldn't be more proud of what we’ve been able to achieve in collaboration with all the people who constantly work for this company with their incredible dedication and commitment. For this reason I look at our future, imagining what we’ll be able to create moving from here. I am honoured to have led our story, and have the opportunity to continue leading it."

How do you think the DNA of the brand has changed over the years and what has stayed the same?

"The motto of the house, 'When your own initials are enough,' dates back to the Seventies and speaks to our belief that Bottega Veneta’s signature is its craftsmanship. When I began, the motto had fallen into disuse, but we revived it. It represented where I wanted us to return. My goal was to build a brand focused on highlighting the product and enhancing its individuality."


What do you identify as the major signatures of the house?

"Heritage and tradition are inherent values of Bottega Veneta. We will always stay true to the artisanal roots of the house, a cultural heritage which fuses technique and creativity with know-how and gestures that have been passed down over time and grant our brand’s identity.

The intrecciato was created by Bottega Veneta in the early Seventies, and when I began working at the house I went to see the workshops and was greeted by the artisans. Seeing the capability of the craftspeople was just incredible and I immediately recalled the intrecciato bags my own mother used to carry. This distinctive leather weave design is a beautiful way to make a supple, soft, constructed bag durable. The leathers are very, very soft and layering and weaving them into each other is what makes each item so unique.

That was the starting point, along with our four cornerstones of outstanding craftsmanship; timeless yet innovative design; contemporary functionality; and the highest quality materials to define anything from Bottega Veneta. When I joined the house it was losing its identity and roots, so I instituted those four cornerstones. Once these principles had been defined, I went on to develop Bottega Veneta into a full-range luxury lifestyle brand. This philosophy continues to drive everything we create and produce today."


How have you changed since you came on board as creative director?

"I think my vision for the brand hasn't changed since I joined, but it certainly has evolved. With everything we have created over the last 15 years, we are in a completely different place. It has been, and continues to be, a challenge, and we like bringing it to a certain level of the unexpected. Even when somebody says 'It’s never been done,' there's always a solution."

You are involved with a lot of artistic projects within your role, why is this important to you and the brand?

"Collaboration is at the heart of Bottega Veneta and has the most complete meaning. First of all, everything that we produce is as a result of people working together, from my role as creative director, to the design team, to the craftspeople who make our products. We are very proud of our artisans working in the atelier in Montebello Vicentino, in the Veneto region of Italy where Bottega Veneta is from. I like the sense that there are skilled hands behind Bottega Veneta who come together to make our products. In a way the “Art Of Collaboration” campaign extends this sense once the products have been made, collaborating with photographers and artists to create something valid and of quality.

It’s an enriching process personally and it's extremely enriching for the house. Additionally, art and architecture have always been a source of inspiration for me. I have a deep personal appreciation of art and architecture and I strongly believe in the importance of protecting culture as a substantial part of our history and heritage. By respecting it, we have an opportunity of growth and evolution, and are able to bring our stories to the next step."

How do you continue to keep the brand covetable and fresh?

"The biggest challenge is to always maintain an interest and an excitement both for myself as a creative director, and for our clients. There's always novelty and excitement with new projects and new collections."


What are your views on see-now, buy-now and do you think this would ever work for the brand?

"Bottega Veneta remains committed to a timing of presentation and launch that gives production the time necessary to create a sophisticated handcrafted collection that conveys a dream even before it hits the boutiques."

How do you, as a designer, switch off and relax?

"Travel. I have moved around a great deal, but an unforgettable place I’ve travelled to is the Benesse Art Site on Naoshima and its surrounding islands. It is beautiful on an architectural level because it is incorporated and displayed in a beautiful way, harmonious with the landscape."

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