Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Burberry Reveals Runway To Retail

Burberry launched its long-awaited runway-to-retail model in London last night with a show of epic proportion. Staged in a disused courtyard and warehouse behind the old Central Saint Martins building on Charing Cross Road (which was transformed into an outdoor oasis, twinkling with festoon lighting), Burberry created Makers House - a workshop-style installation that saw artists embroidering textiles, sculpting plastered busts, and making artisanal chocolates - a part of a collaboration with The New Craftsmen - to an exclusive live soundtrack played by a 21-piece orchestra.

But despite the impressive format, and the equally impressive show (read Sarah Harris's report here), the main topic on everyone's mind was how would the see-now, buy-now model work? The questions were soon answered.

Would there be fewer looks from the brand famous for delivering their biannual blockbusters? No - there were 83 comprehensive looks. How have monthly magazines been considered? Editors were invited under embargo earlier this year to view the collection and request pieces for their shoots. And, would all of it be going into production? Yes.


"Every piece that will be presented on the runway will be available to buy the minute the show ends," Bailey told us earlier this week. "I hope that what we’ll be able to do is create a moment that feels relevant when the customer actually sees it, rather than telling him or her they’ve got to wait until five or six months after we’ve excited them.”

On the other side of Soho last night in Burberry's flagship Regent Street store, Bailey's plan was coming together. A select group of VIP guests - mostly elite clients, one employee told us - had been invited to watch the catwalk action play out live on a massive projector screen, champagne flowing (the show was also live streamed on the Burberry.com website). Post show, the curtains were swept back on either side to reveal the box-fresh collection (each piece from which was stocked in every size), while online, both at Burberry and its partnering retail sites, the collection also dropped.

"This is what we've been waiting for," one customer, who had straight away snapped up the poncho cape, told us referring to the immediacy of being able to make a purchase. Elsewhere in the store, personal shoppers helped several guests complete their shopping lists.


Bailey told us before the show that he believes that adopting the new model will not only help the house become more in touch with its consumer, but its own creative structure too.

“This change in the way we are working has actually given us much more opportunity to unpack what craft and creativity means for us," said Bailey. "Working in the way that we have been for the last few months has meant that we have been able to create a world of experiences – Makers House being one example. Another key shift has been the combination of our men's and women's collections – and I’ve found that you’re able to create more of a story when you get your men’s and women’s collections together, because it reflects one mood and one moment. Something that doesn't change is the customer’s expectation of creativity and quality – they want an incredible product delivered in a seamless and luxurious way."

Seamless is certainly the way proceedings felt last night. Time will tell if the model works financially, but judging by the retail response on the ground, Burberry has every right to be feeling optimistic.

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