What Can We Expect From The New Azzedine Alaia?

More than a mere fashion designer, Azzedine Alaïa sculpted the body in ways that rivaled the work of Rodin and Michaelangelo. The designer arguably invented the body-con silhouette, highlighting the curves and flares of the body while challenging notions of femininity. Alaïa was an innovator, someone who constantly toyed with ideas of beauty and also the fashion industry in general - he was one of the first designers to flout the traditional fashion week schedule. And with notoriously close relationships with supermodels such as Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, and Stephanie Seymour, Alaïa became the go-to for ‘80s glamour and chicness.

In typical defiant Alaïa fashion, the designer announced that he would be retiring from the fashion calendar all together in 1992. Though the house never closed, it has not reached the same level of notoriety it once attained. The brand's most recent collections have been stealthily strong - both a nod to the house's DNA and a look to the future. Operating solely in look book format, the house has produced soild collections but has failed to resonate within the wider industry. The designer’s tragic passing in 2017 left the fashion industry in mourning and the fate of the boundary-breaking house up in the air. Would the house be shuttered permanently or would it see a vibrant revitalization à la Casey Cadwallader at Mugler?

It seems as though the answer to the question is the latter. Almost three years after Alaïa’s passing, Mulier’s appointment is destined to shake up the house and the wider fashion industry. With an architecture background like so many of today’s biggest designers, Mulier will most certainly continue the sleek and sexy Alaïa we have come to know and love.

Though not much is known about Mulier’s personal aesthetic, if his work with Raf Simons is any inkling into his performance at Alaïa, we are in for a treat. Known as Simons’ “Right Hand Man,” Mulier has traveled with the designer to and from his various high-profile stints at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein where Simons curated his now notorious cult following. Simons' emphasis on tailoring and structure are a perfect fit for Mulier to transfer to his new appointment. As director of accessories at Jil Sander and design director at Dior, Mulier is a well-versed veteran poised to debut a strong collection - expect a lot of tailoring, style lines, and of course, body-con.

Prior to the announcement, the brand made head-waves through the wardrobe of musical powerhouse Normani. In the explosive song that was "WAP", Normani wore a black and white houndstooth ensemble with a coordinating beret, gloves, and heels. The matching outfit bore striking resemblance to the designer’s 1991 Tati Collection - a mix of body conscious check and gingham pieces.

Another modern patron of the house is none other than Kim Kardashian. The mogul has worn Alaïa on several occasions, most notably the full leopard ensemble from Fall/Winter 1991. Kardashian is naturally an Alaïa girl - the designer’s animalesque creation perfectly molded to the star's body and shows just how timeless an Alaïa piece is.

Though it is impossible to know exactly what Mulier will bring to the famed house, we are certainly excited about its prospects. If the brand’s work with the aforementioned stars are any indicator, the new Alaïa will combine its notorious streamlined aesthetic with modern trends and movements like body positivity and cultural representation. Mulier’s streamlined background combined with Alaïa house codes are sure to be a match made in heaven.

In a statement to the press, Mulier stated "Always ahead of his time and open to all arts and cultures, Azzedine Alaïa’s powerful vision has served as an inspiration, as he always sought to give the necessary time to innovative and enduring creation.” Mulier undoubtedly has huge shoes to fill, but his architecture prowess and fashion prowess are certainly set to create magic. And let’s be real...who doesn't look amazing in an immaculately cut Alaïa dress?