The New Beginning Of Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester 's revival can be defined by one of her favorite words: slouchy. An original member of the Antwerp Six, Demeulemeester became a leading force in the refined minimalism that dominated the '90s. Much to the joy of Demeulemeester followers, the brand is reimagining their founder's focus on elegant tailoring and deconstructivism while offering a quintessentially modern wardrobe. And with the recent acquisition of the brand by Claudio Antonioli, the co-founder of New Guards Group—which includes streetwear labels Off-White and Palm Angels—the house is returning to its tailoring-focused roots. The brand's Fall/Winter 2021 collection merges masterful tailoring and signature silhouettes with a focus on modern wearability, creating a powerful uniform for the Demeulemeester enthusiast.

The no nuance, muted color palette constructs a sense of effortless dynamism that continues throughout the collection. In typical Demeulemeester fashion, poetic androgyny generates a source of captivating tension that guides the viewer from one look to the next. Streamlined silhouettes—immaculately tailored coats and trousers—and updated design details—faux fur detailing, among others— are the latest touchstones in the brand's continuing conversation with the modern wardrobe. Many of the collection's garments reference previous Demeulemeester pieces from the '90s, and pick up on the designer's distinct, logo-less creations.

Also a part of the Fall/Winter presentation is an evocative video directed by Belgian creative Willy Vanderperre. Set behind the picturesque scenery of Château de Franconville, Vanderperre highlights the signature DNA of the brand while referencing the future. With gothic romanticism à la Patti Smith—the brand's long-time muse— the film returns to the minimalism-fueled brilliance of '90s Demeulemeester. Through refined plays of lights and darks, models are transformed into tableaux vivants—evoking the emotive sobriety of Flemish portraiture.

Ann Demeulemeester's relaunch is centered around much more than a typical brand revival. The brand's creative team are not only referencing Demeulemeester's signature ethos and silhouettes but are also contextualizing the label in a modern context. A refreshed vision speaks to the importance of an unwavering personal voice, and of course, the necessity of a chic, timeless wardrobe.