Rei Kawakubo called for “monochrome serenity”
After a year of lockdowns, the big reset we all talked about last summer has turned into reforms: loud and important social movements and debates on the internet, the news, and occasionally the streets, too. As it turns out, what mankind needed wasn’t a year of peace and quiet but a roaring revolution. While we’ve spent our “time off” wisely, our year of change has generated a desire for a different kind of reset – a deep breath before we step back into the real world. “Amidst the incessant overflowing of miscellaneous things, the deluge of colour, the flooding of sound and the inundation of information,” Rei Kawakubo wrote in her Comme des Garçons show notes, “I needed to take one breath in the monochrome serenity.”
The collection mirrored the present through Victorian glasses
Kawakubo reflected the mindset of the present day through that of another era: the codes of the Victorian age, a wardrobe informed by ideas of modesty and restraint attributed to mourning dress, but equally as reactive to the mechanical oversaturation and high-speed progress that fuelled the Industrial Revolution. In a different time of progress, perhaps we can mirror ourselves in Queen Victoria’s restrained opulence, as deconstructed by Kawakubo. In that sense, the collection didn’t reflect the idea of the “wardrobe reset” many designers toyed with during last month’s fashion weeks, but a more romantic notion of resetting, founded in the hyper-expression that embodies Kawakubo’s mastodon silhouettes.
Kawakubo deconstructed Victorian dress codes
It reflected a year of contrasts
Presented in Tokyo on a stormy studio backdrop with white smoke curling at the models’ feet, there was a certain amount of drama to Kawakubo’s “monochrome serenity”. In years to come – in a hopefully pandemic-free future – her collection will serve as a memory of how this odd moment in time felt: the big mishmash of ambivalent emotions that reigns as we prepare to re-emerge after a year of lockdowns. But her fusion of storms and serenity was also an apt image of that year’s weird contrasts, what with all of us being trapped in the comfort of our own homes, baking and Zooming, while outside, the world is changing.
It featured hats by Ibrahim Kamara
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