Friday, September 8, 2017

Tom Ford's Nineties Comeback And Rihanna's Catwalk Sass: What To Expect From NYFW

New York Fashion week starts today but with several big-name American designers defecting to London and Paris, what does the event have in store? British Vogue’s new fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen has the preview.

If you’re looking for a New York Fashion Week preview, you needn’t look further than July’s haute couture shows in Paris. Proenza Schouler and Rodarte’s decision to relocate to the French summer schedule will leave a void in New York this September, but the shows must go on—even if major players Altuzarra and Thom Browne are immigrating to Paris Fashion Week, and Tommy Hilfiger is decamping to London.


The departures mark a new chip in the polish for the American shows, which have suffered a lack of interest from European visitors in recent years. It’s not all bad news for the New York this season, however. The city still boasts all-important young names like Sies Marjan and Monse, and headliners including Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham and Marc Jacobs are staying put for now.

The Americans also have a few big-name surprises up their star-spangled sleeves. Tom Ford is back in town. The designer/director opens the week on Wednesday evening and is promising to revisit his sexually charged, Nineties heyday.

Meanwhile, Rihanna is bringing her star power to New York, uprooting her Fenty Puma show from Paris and moving it to her adoptive homeland. It’s a clever decision by the popstar. The New York shows thrive on an air of celebrity, and Rihanna puts on the kind of fun-filled fashion show we want to see on the American runways.


Calvin Klein brings that kind of celebrity spectacle, too, and after Raf Simons took the reins last season it’s only got grander. With the locals leaving town there’s a certain irony to the fact a Belgian designer is now New York’s biggest draw. Look out for house ambassadors Paris Jackson and Brooke Shields as Simons braves the traditionally challenging feat of nailing his sophomore season for the American fashion institution.

Helmut Lang has undergone a revamp of sorts over the past six months, and this week Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver – the brand’s current designer-in-residence – is ready to show what he’s been working on. Expect subversive nostalgia, dystopian deconstruction, and a fair amount of fetish chic.

Ralph Lauren won’t be in town, either, but fret not, the American hero isn’t moving to Paris, only to the garage in his Bedford abode on Long Island where his see-now-buy-now spectacular will be unveiled. The event may not boost Manhattan’s declining fashion week population, but at least few things show off the famous American hospitality quite like inviting people into your own home.


Off the catwalks, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Kronthaler are showing some Anglo-Austrian support for New York alongside Juergen Teller as the trio celebrate their long-standing photographic collaboration with an exhibition at the house’s 55th Street store. We may get a glimpse of prominent American Westwood fans such as Pamela Anderson and Kim Kardashian.

Kanye West will be in town, too. It’s just that no one knows when and where his Yeezy show is taking place, how far we’ll have to drive to see it, and what footwear might be appropriate. You have to give it up to Mr West, though: in a time when New York’s other star designers are heading to Paris, he’s keeping us on our toes.

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