Charting 15 Years Of On|Off

Supporting and showcasing emerging talent is a hallmark of London Fashion Week, and On|Off is one of its leading advocates. As the initiative celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, we spoke to its founder, Lee Lapthorne, to find out how things have changed, what designers should be doing now, and why sustainability is at the core of moving the industry on.

Congrats on your 15-year On|Off anniversary - what do you think are the platform's major accomplishments?

"15 years on, On|Off is thriving and this is a major achievement in its own right. It’s been a rollercoaster of a ride and I’m proud of our many successes and the designers we’ve supported along the way. The biggest accomplishment is watching them flourish, building brands and businesses, and gaining prestigious positions in global design houses."

Why is the LFW showcase so important to maintain?

"More than any other fashion capital, London offers emerging designers the chance to get noticed and to learn and earn their stripes. It’s a forgiving and supportive environment that enables new creatives to break through."

What changes have you seen?

"Now, more than ever, it’s a serious business and the industry expects designers to be totally professional from the off. They are also expected to consider sourcing their fabrics and manufacturing ethically. Fashion journalists want to know where designers are based and trading from, and their price ranges. 15 years ago the landscape was about experimentation, drama and freedom. London was known for its avant-garde approach to showcasing. The collections were sensational, dramatic art pieces with an underlining nod to our inherent dark London aesthetic. The only problem was that many of the designers were criticised for not being able to produce what they showcased on the catwalk due to lack of UK manufacturing support, but there was certainly an excitement to those shows. Now it seems focused on production and sales."

What challenges do you think emerging designers faced in 2002, and how are these challenges now?

"Many of the challenges of building a new business are the same: building a brand DNA; gaining financial support; and press recognition are all still key. Growing a social-media following is an obvious new challenge, but designers still seek affirmation from the press and need the media to help build followers. Another new challenge is the implications of Brexit on import and export duties, and of course immigration rules that are likely to affect the industry’s work force."

What do you think are the most important things for emerging designers to comprehend and learn?

"Write a business plan and then secure stockists or commissions, or consultancy work, to gain an income. It would be beneficial for graduates to have had lessons in business planning and to learn about the importance of strategic market research too."

How do you encourage emerging brands to be green and sustainable from the get go?

"Many of the designers I work with are sole traders and are working day to day on their own production. By its very nature, being a new designer requires them to be creative with limited resources. This often leads to sustainability. Obviously we all have a responsibility to care for how we are sourcing and as the company grows so does production. I understand that the BFC offers connections and introductions to companies able to support new designers in this area. They are also encouraging high-street brands to lead the way."

What pioneering ways can new brands break the mould?

"Many emerging designers have grown up using websites to sell their clothes, like eBay and The Marketplace on ASOS. The next generation is more savvy when selling items online directly to their followers. It also seems that many designers are trying out new ways of showcasing and are preferring to stay out of official, traditional events. Growing a label organically is definitely a more acceptable direction to take, building a social following, creating a small happening, and trying and testing samples. I would always recommend designers visit the Paris showrooms to research the global market place and find out what and how their contemporaries are doing. Paris will continue to be the selling capital for fashion and it’s important, if not to sell from there, to at least do your research there."

What would you like to see the BFC do more of to help emerging designers?

"The BFC does a great job with limited resources. There are also many of us that offer years of experience who could be better utilised. This knowledge could be pooled together to help designers build sustainable brands. The strength of LFW has always been our diversity, I am very excited about the mix of designers at On|Off this season, they perfectly demonstrate why On|Off - and indeed London - is still relevant. They are diverse and all have a very different point of view, this is what drives me. Our event always brings a London sensibility."

What initiatives is ON|OFF working on at the moment outside of Fashion Week?

"We have a long-term strategy for each of our designers and we keep in touch with them throughout the year. We also work with designers, helping to build their businesses via carefully curated business plans. I connect designers to business consultants, sales agents, photographers, stylists, hair and make-up teams and companies (it’s important to keep contacts loyal and connected, which often leads to mutually beneficial relationships). I also lecture at universities across the country, spotting the talent of tomorrow. Stay tuned for the launch of our clothing range celebrating 15 years of creative talent and we are also currently pulling together an exciting new mentoring program, which will help deliver even stronger support for our growing network of talent."

What do you think the consumer is looking for now and how can emerging designers rise to meet the challenge?

"Great quality at a great price that offers individuality, sustainability and lasting key pieces that have modernity."

On|Off Presents... will take place tomorrow, Tuesday September 19, as a part of the official London Fashion Week schedule.