Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Matty Bovan: The Designer Approaching SS18 With A Brutal Perspective

Matty Bovan, the Fashion East wunderkind, has approached his spring/summer 2018 collection with "a brutal perspective", and - as he told us ahead of his London Fashion Week outing with the collective - his "woman" is a modern one.

"I always feel she is a female version of myself, it's definitely someone who has a strong option on what they like," said Bovan. "I do feel my clothes are not just strictly womenswear though, and have never considered it so rigid."

Rigid isn't a term anyone who is familiar with the Central Saint Martins graduate's work would associate with his designs. His knack for experimental, thought-provoking collections established him one to watch immediately after his graduate show (he won the LVMH Graduate Prize in 2015) and has since cemented his place as one one London's pre-eminent young designers - as is often the case with Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy's protégées.


"Having my own label was definitely something I always dreamed of," he told us of the opportunity the initiative has afforded him. "To have that platform to showcase your vision is amazing. I am grateful I got to do the MA at Central Saint Martins and have some experience afterwards, as I recognise it was a super important time for me to really develop my way of working."

Bovan's way of working harks back to other CSM alumni - Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci, Phoebe Philo, and Gareth Pugh among them. It's brave, it's thought-provoking, and he knows who he is designing for - something the late, great professor of the institution, Louise Wilson, demanded of her pupils. It's heartening to witness Wilson's legacy live on, even in students she never got the chance to nurture, as is the attention that Bovan pays not only to the surface aesthetic, but the construction of the garments he designs.Louise Wilson's Vogue Interview.


"It's very important to me - I mostly start with textiles and fabrics as it really can dictate where the silhouette can go and how it can all work," he explained. "I trained in knitwear so it will always be a core of what I do, and it's something that excites me."

As for his offering this season, he tells us that we can expect a collection rooted in his own take on cinematic fantasy. "For a while now I have been inspired by films, particularly science fiction such as Blade Runner, Alien, Alien 3, Mad Max and so on," he revealed. "I really get into these self-contained brutal worlds and never get bored of any of it. I love the heavy atmosphere you get in these films."

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