The inaugural show came from Catalan firm Mango, opening the 080 catwalk, from which the collections were shown, containing over 30 designers and brands in this bi-annual celebration of fashion talent.
These were some of the highlights;
MANUEL BOLAÑO: COLLECTION - BLEU EN FRANÇAIS
A collection presented in soft pastels, with the primary use of blue. Soft, floaty silhouettes meets sharp tailoring and well constructed layers.
JUAN PEDRO LOPEZ: COLLECTION - PART XV
´The arrival by boat to the island of Santorini is an exceptional experience whose effects can be enhanced by listening to the "fires of Crete" in Markopoulos’ voice. There are strong reasons to find the scene bucolic, but the impression is short-lived. In approaching the coast of the island, the sea, so far above reproach, undergoes a radical transformation. We witness the centuries roll back until the absolute negation of all the clichés that have been written about the Aegean. We sail a fantastic archipelago of lava, volcanic slag, and sulfurous remains floating between vertiginously vertical cliffs. The submarine abyss seems an extension of the sheer drop of every cliff, the brutally split land swallowed by the sea.´
“Travel notes”. Terenci Moix, 1996.
The collection evokes the Santorini sunsets through silhouettes, prints and volumes taken from Hellenic folklore. Through the interplay of transparencies, textures, glints of light and images a sophisticated look is created for the chic woman.
Silks, irredescents, and textures presented in a palette of purple, silver, fuscia and white. Again an emphasis on soft layers with well composed jackets and trousers. We especially liked the bands of colours and the sharp contrasts through colour blocking.
JOSEP ABRIL: COLECCIÓN – ICE SS#2013N33
Formal cuts, relaxed tailoring with hints of the Avant Garde and asymmetrical deconstructions. This collection was typically presented in a palette of grey, blue and white, without disappointment.
MIRIAM PONSA: COLLECTION – LUMBERJACKS
The lumberjack’s trade involved the construction of rafts, effectively vessels made of logs, and the guidance of the rafts downriver. The logger’s activity began with felling in the forests in winter. The logs were then rolled down the hillsides to the watercourses where the logs were floated down to points where the rafts were lashed together. In the summer the rafts were guided down to the lumber distribution points.
The lashing of the trunks together inspired techniques that use knots like macramé and the Spanish knot technique. Manual embroidery worked in silk and ribbons make up an important part of the collection.
The full volumes of the pieces are combined with more structured than worked woven pieces. The fabrics are mostly silk, cotton voile, resined linen and twill. Colors are in the blues, greens and grays.
ZAZO & BRULL: COLLECTION - THE SUCCESSOR
´All they who dream of power,
have already sold their soul to the devil.´
Goethe
(German writer, artist and politician)
An Avant Garde female collection in a dark palette with detailing in contrasting colours. Elements of gothic hark back to the designers heritage of Barcelona, whilst chiffon and layers make this collection an idea investment for summer.
NATALIE CAPELL: COLLECTION - PERSONA #2
The boutique is an intimate space which hides a workshop round back, reminiscent of turn of the century ateliers in Paris. It is a place hidden in an alley of the old city, whose secret is spread by word of mouth since more than a decade ago…
The collection features long dresses and delicate tops, comfortable and wearable in multiple combinations with silk belts. An interplay is created between these two layers, as colors are revealed underlying darker pieces. The foundation is a basic silhouette dress, a wardrobe standard, overlayed with unique pieces made of fine and elegant tulle, embroidered and made by hand. Through unique headdresses and masks that accompany each dress, reminiscent of a puppet theater, we are transported to a timeless magic.
Materials: different tulles: natural silk, lycra, polyamide, different jersey knits: silk and polyamide silk satin, are worked and dyed by hand in the atelier.
YIORGOS ELEFTHERIADES: EXCESSIVE STIMULATION OF A SPECIFIC TYPE #2
With a nod to post-modern minimalism and the importance of balance in the structure of a garment, the Spring Summer 2014 collection of Yiorgos Eleftheriades is, basically, a series of sculptured silhouettes.
The effect is achieved via sharp shapes, with applicated details, cut-outs and paper like effects. Individual pieces can be easily juxtaposed in a variety of layered combinations.
The collection's main purpose is to create an easy-going - but impressive at the same time - wardrobe that fits an elegant contemporary female in whatever environment she chooses to inhabit.
Like cycles, seasons, day and night. States in permanent REPETITION and MOVEMENT. The basis for this collection lies in these two concepts.
