While the spotlight is generally placed on already-established brands and designers during the show season, industry insiders are always keeping watch on emerging talent. Utilizing hardware, knitwear, bold patterns and soft neutrals, these seven emerging designers from NYFW have continued to innovate and are creating fresh buzz.
Connor McKnight
As an alum of BODE’s tailor-made atelier, Connor McKnight’s independent work proves that he has what it takes to build and sustain his own fashion label. For Fall/Winter 2022, McKnight merged the sentiments and appeal of his first two collections by showcasing a genderless offering of classic workwear shapes, chunky knits, and structural jumpsuits. An extravagant, black quilted cape stood out as a collection highlight, while leather and denim also supported his inspired silhouettes. Harking back to the Black Reconstruction era – after the Civil War – McKnight referenced community trade skills and worker uniforms, titling his collection “Good Work.” Remarking on the inspiration, McKnight says: “With regards to the black community – throughout history – I find it inspiring that we have kept on, in spite of or because of.”
Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Iranian fashion designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh and her eponymous label have become a staple for streetwear enthusiasts seeking an elevated approach to casual dressing. A graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design, Zadeh presented an earth-toned and textural collection for FW22. Size-inclusive designs comprised knitwear, trousers and leather-trimmed outerwear.
No Sesso
The Italian translation for “no sex” has been brought to life via design duo Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph, for their No Sesso fashion label. Founded in 2015, Davis and Randolph have consistently challenged the conventions of culture and fashion, by empowering community and nonconformity with their designs. For Fall/Winter ‘22, signature hand embroidery, reconstructed materials, and bold colors graced the NS runway. Collection notes highlighted the show’s theme, stating, “A movement into growing maturity explores the duality of expected propriety and natural sensuality. Pieces have been hand-distressed, disassembled, and re-sewn into new forms.”
KHIRY
Established as an Afrofuturist luxury jewelry brand, Jameel Mohammed’s FW22 collection for KHIRY debuted a new demi-fine jewelry collection and custom-made garments in the form of a riveting performance piece titled “Fights Reveal Futilities.” Pale pink denim with stringed-pearl embellishments, ribboned tank tops and graphic-covered cotton shirts proved perfect pairs for Mohammed’s earrings, chains and rings. As a CFDA Emerging Designer Award nominee and a Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, Mohammed and his KHIRY label continue to gain industry recognition.
Private Policy
Co-founders Siying Qu and Haoran Li showcased utilitarian-inspired garments and a conceptual interpretation of fungi for Private Policy’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Neutral shades, including beige, olive and pale yellow were incorporated into the brand’s presentation of harnessed tops, strappy pants and vegan leather items. Runway standouts included a checkerboard-inspired coat and the teasing of an upcoming capsule collection with Coca-Cola. Titled “Organic Futurism,” Qu and Li took inspiration from Earth’s oldest and largest living organism – the Fungi Kingdom.
Les Tien
Bridging the gap between luxury and comfort, Courtney Michelle Ogilvie produced an FW22 collection that highlighted her technique of draping and stylized maturity. Ogilvie previously helped to launch mega-successful brands like Fear of God and Yeezy and has since stepped into the spotlight for her label, Les Tien. An understated and minimal design approach were the focal points of the collection, while elevated men’s basics, including oversized outerwear, funnel-neck sweaters and snap-hemmed joggers, were collection standouts. Additionally, Les Tien has resonated with brand supporters such as Drake, LeBron James, and Justin Bieber.
Dur Doux Homme
Presented as part of the Black in Fashion Council’s Discovery Showroom, mother-daughter duo Cynthia and Najla Burt teamed up with menswear designer Andrew Nowell for a Fall/Winter 2022 collection titled “New Mosaic.” As pioneers of luxe womenswear, the Burt family tapped D.C.-based Nowell to collaborate on a showcase of 10 tailored sportswear looks with an urban edge. The design collective nodded to Saville Row with sharp trousers that incorporated front-slit hems, sleek overcoats and textured fabrics. Collection highlights include a floral-print graphic bomber jacket with mixed materials and boxed leather handbags.
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