It was only appropriate that the Jacquemus show should look like the set of Teletubbies. After nearly a year away from the runway circus, returning to the shows here in Paris is a similarly trippy and elating experience. It’s also a reminder of the effect the lockdowns have had on the exhibitionist social media culture we live in: pure acceleration, that is. Like fish back in water, those who like to be seen are flaunting what they’ve got, strutting their stuff, and posing up a storm. The influencers sitting across the green Teletubby hill erected within a giant film studio at Cité du Cinéma looked like the show itself: pumped up, in brightly coloured clothes, ready for action.
It was Instagram dreams
“For this collection, after such a particular year, I wanted to gather people inside and share a fashion moment together,” Simon Porte wrote in a statement placed on each seat. The real-life fashion show medium has been an invaluable part of his short career (who doesn’t remember those lavender fields?) and helped push him to stardom. As a young designer with a big show budget, he knows exactly which buttons to push to entice the social media culture he participates in alongside those peers. “I wanted the set to be minimal and sharp, recreating an abstract artistic mountain that portrays the inspiration of the collection,” he said of his Instagram-worthy green-hill-and-blue-skies set.
It was a hot boy/girl summer wardrobe
Porte’s collection was for autumn/winter 2021 – he skipped a season – and made available to purchase on his website seconds after the show’s finale. In a way, he couldn’t have planned that better. A digital-youth take on the post-pandemic wardrobe, with all the ideas of ease and comfort and confidence that have been attached to that territory, these clothes – albeit labelled “autumn” – were begging to be worn, stat, by a young generation planning a hot boy/girl summer of revenge travel and, indeed, shopping to leave all memories of lockdown behind. As Rick Owens put it earlier this season, with parental concern: “It’s gonna be a gluttonous summer. Stay safe.”
It was sexy outdoor-wear
The collection descended upon the great outdoors, working the codes of camping and skiing into sexed-up silhouettes that hugged and squeezed the body in all the risqué places. In his womenswear, Porte played with garments so light and silky they fell off the bone, tight and sporty tailoring bursting at the seams, and technical sack dresses suspended between sportswear and a cocktail party. His menswear was like something out of gay erotic literature: sultry campers in crop tops, knitted cycling shorts, and sporno-sexual activewear. In the age of exhibitionism, Jacquemus is hitting an erogenous zone.
The collection descended upon the great outdoors, working the codes of camping and skiing into sexed-up silhouettes that hugged and squeezed the body in all the risqué places. In his womenswear, Porte played with garments so light and silky they fell off the bone, tight and sporty tailoring bursting at the seams, and technical sack dresses suspended between sportswear and a cocktail party. His menswear was like something out of gay erotic literature: sultry campers in crop tops, knitted cycling shorts, and sporno-sexual activewear. In the age of exhibitionism, Jacquemus is hitting an erogenous zone.
The fashion show is back
After all this time, serving up a line-up that counted Adut, Kendall, Bella, Leon, Jonas and co was an Instagram moment in itself. While most of fashion’s regular show-goers are still watching orchestrations like these digitally (there were some 110 people in the live audience), the atmosphere here in Paris is unmistakable: the runway show lives.
After all this time, serving up a line-up that counted Adut, Kendall, Bella, Leon, Jonas and co was an Instagram moment in itself. While most of fashion’s regular show-goers are still watching orchestrations like these digitally (there were some 110 people in the live audience), the atmosphere here in Paris is unmistakable: the runway show lives.
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