Thursday, September 24, 2020

Diesel’s Venice Collection Is The Ultimate Festival Souvenir

As the Italian denim brand pops up in Piazza San Marco, owner Renzo Rosso tells Vogue why the guerilla marketing approach is paying off.

A figure strides past me in Marco Polo airport, clad in a murky, ankle-length trench coat. She is tall, sporting a large pair of sunglasses and a mask that between them obscure her face in its entirety. The only identifying feature is a shock of windswept tangerine hair. As we exit the airport just paces apart, and the paparazzi waiting by the water taxis start snapping away, my suspicions are confirmed: Tilda Swinton has arrived in Venice.

Venice Film Festival is not itself this year, but then again, it’s a miracle that it is taking place at all. Six months ago, the idea of an international film festival in Northern Italy would have been unimaginable. Now Tilda and Cate Blanchett are leading the charge for a return to normalcy. Few other headline names have braved the festival – at last night’s screening of The Duke Helen Mirren was conspicuously absent, with Jim Broadbent sitting alone in the illuminated seats reserved for the stars.

The city itself is empty, too. The labyrinthine streets are free from the tourists that habitually clog the arteries of this city, but are its life blood nonetheless. The Film Festival, then, brings with it a much-needed tide of international visitors, and some positive press for the Covid-ravaged region that has made a remarkable recovery.

Adding to the positive vibe is the quintessentially Italian denim brand Diesel, which this week launched a new capsule collection “Unforgettable Venice” from a bancarella souvenir stall in the Piazza San Marco. Men in striped gondola shirts emblazoned with the brand logo sing and call out to spectators who are approaching to inspect their wares, while elegant cocktails are served to one side in the Grancaffè Quadri. Choosing to eschew the rococo luxury that might be expected from a fashion event in Venice, Diesel is staying true to its roots, selling streetwear in the streets – though those gondoliers are serving sparkling wines from the vineyard at the Diesel Farm.


Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel and president of the OTB Group – parent company of the likes of Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf – says Venice is everything to him. He grew up a stone’s throw away, it is the city where he was a student, and where, as a young man, he would come to the discotheques with his friends on Friday nights.

The idea to create this graphic, energising collection came to him in this very city. Sitting in Piazza San Marco in June, in the aftermath of the harsh lockdown, Rosso was struck by the resilience of the Italian people. This impression led to the creation of a unisex, limited-edition collection filled with a mix of quirky graphics with a Venetian spin. And yes, there is a face mask.

Rosso relates that masks are becoming part of life, and fashion must keep up: “It must be functional, we must keep people safe.” Part of the revenues brought in by the sales of the masks will be used to support social initiatives, aiding Italian families impacted by the pandemic.

The businessman admits that Covid-19 has been difficult for the fashion industry. “We have suffered, of course, like everyone. But on the other hand, there are some things we can be positive about. We have channelled our investment into talking to our customers and delivering stellar customer service. The pandemic has made us rethink our strategies and develop new ways of doing business. Organising local events for customers, telling them our story and making them feel like they are part of the brand. We have never been closer to the consumer, and that’s certainly a good thing.”

He has cause for optimism. Already, those new strategies are beginning to cover the losses dealt during lockdown: the new capsule collection sold out online in less than a day, and had to be restocked overnight. A new generation is being introduced to the label thanks to up-and-coming Italian actors including Beatrice Bruschi and Rocco Fasano, chosen to represent the collection for their energy and attitude. As jazz music from the café’s band wafts through the air, and the mosaics of San Marco glint in the last rays of the setting sun, the future looks bright.

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