It provided a moment of peace
The serenity that filled Giorgio Armani’s underground runway room on Via Borgonuovo on the last day of the Milan shows felt much-needed. Since the post-pandemic return of fashion week, the industry has been increasing its pace at breakneck speed. It’s exciting but exhausting, and lightyears from the lessons we were so eager to teach ourselves during lockdown periods. That doesn’t go for Armani. He has no intention of retiring but at 88, he would like to smell the roses. “I definitely would like to slow down. I think it’s important to make time for oneself and just cherish the moment,” he said, before a show that epitomised his signature peaceful elegance at its most beautiful.
It had a global sensibility
“The essence is a certain purity, and the glimmer of gold,” Armani said of looks that established a desert feeling in both silhouette and palette. It brought to mind a nomadic wardrobe founded in ancient, original garments like sarouel trousers, sarongs and latticed and netted tops intricately executed with the finest craftsmanship. He adorned it with big sculptural necklaces and earrings that looked almost carved by hand, cementing the earthy, grounded and serene core of the collection. You could imagine the geographic references that birthed them, but throughout the show, Armani maintained a culturally ambiguous and above all global approach that felt very poignant in the current climate.
Colours were earthy and soothing
In creating his serene atmosphere, Armani exercised his talent for colour. They shifted from the pale beige that glimmered with gold to ink blue and purples, and concluded in a warmer beige that turned up the volume on those glistening golden surfaces. “I like the story that the collection tells, a story that speaks about colours but also about elongated and liquid shapes,” he said. “I think we’re facing a very hard moment and we all strive for serenity, peacefulness, calm. The collection reflects this state of mind, so everything is very pure, joyous, and soothing at the same time.”
The hair was incredible
What the runway won’t show is the intricate hair styling that quickly became a defining factor in the show. Every model’s hair was tied into a ponytail, the hair then twisted around the length of it in sections that resembled basket weave. It made for one of those how-did-they-do-that? moments: a kind of craftsmanship as impressive as the collection itself, and in which you could truly sense the human hand.
Armani paid tribute to the Queen
As the most senior designer in fashion – and a king in his own capacity – it was only right to ask Armani about the death of the Queen, whom he once confessed was the only person he dreamed of dressing. “I was very affected by the death of Queen Elizabeth. I think she’s been a true icon for all of us. It was almost like having a character from a fairy tale in real life. Her passing also made me reflect on the passing of time, but it didn’t make me sad because she’s had a wonderful life, truly full and intense – with some amount of scandal too, which she always fronted with great strength and extreme dignity, but also with a certain gentleness. I think she’s been a role model for many,” he said. “I think she had her own wonderful, very personal style. I would probably like to dress the new King and Queen-Consort. It would be an interesting challenge, and I would be curious to know what their concept of style and elegance is. It would certainly be an intriguing conversation.”
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