When Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths was mapping out the Italian brand’s spring/summer 2020 collection, he happened to be watching a lot of television – particularly spy thrillers. Accordingly, the sharp suiting and military-flecked utility wear – which supers Gigi Hadid, Doutzen Kroes and Candice Swanepoel modelled on the runway – looked almost special agent-worthy. Griffiths created a wardrobe for a would-be taskforce of strong women, with one disarming caveat. His Max Mara gang had a predilection for pastels, as well as gun-metal greys, camels and khakis.
“Thrillers are a way that we explore what might be dark and dangerous through a prism that makes them glamorous and exciting – that’s what we all need,” Griffiths told British Vogue post-presentation, while also waxing lyrical about his love of characters conceived by Phoebe Waller-Bridge, which, for him, are a form of escapism.
Just like Killing Eve’s Villanelle, the Max Mara woman has a taste for powerful pastel shades. She’ll be wearing a full look of barely-there pastel pocket-heavy shirts, crisply tailored shorts, sheer knee-high socks and clippy court shoes by day. By night, sinuous bias cut evening dresses in sugary silks are her modas operandi. Who said pastels can’t be pretty tough? Griffiths’s sweet-but-in-no-way-saccharine power troupe are setting the marching orders this season. We’re enlisting, what about you?