Why The Never-Heard-Of-It Factor Is Fashion's New Selling Point

Once upon a time, designer labels took years to establish. Customers had to recognise a brand before splashing serious cash on it. Now, with a speeded-up fashion cycle and an appetite for newness that’s seemingly insatiable, buyers are emboldened to actively seek out exciting, unknown brands that will give their look a unique edge. Never heard of it? All the more reason to buy it. Now stores compete to sign hot new designers, because small unknown brands offer a level of individuality that their customers crave. At the recent Matchesfashion.com event in New York, the never-heard-of-it factor was in full force, with the internet giant throwing its considerable weight behind little known, emerging talents. Here are the three new names to put on your shopping list:

Germainer

Since graduating from St Martin’s, 24-year-old Kevin Germanier has been working for Nicholas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, whilst simultaneously setting up his own brand. Germainer’s principles are rooted in the concept of sustainability but his aesthetic is high glamour. Decorative and dressy, these clothes are also radical in fabrication. Germanier achieves his dramatic, sculptural shapes and vivid colouration because his clothes are made from rubber, set with plastic beads that the designer rescued from an Indian landfill. “It’s glamorous - like a modern Ellie Saab but you can wash it in the machine,” says Matchesfashion.com buying director Natalie Kingham. Yes to that.

Summa

Not all emerging brands are founded by newly hatched designers. Summa was launched in 2016 by Jane Chung, who co-founded DKNY with Donna Karan. When it comes to taste and designing pitch perfect, covetable luxury, Chung knows what she’s doing. Her design pedigree and connoisseurship is evident in every piece. This is a brand for women who appreciate extreme, up-close attention to detail and a refined level of taste. Shapes borrow from menswear and fabrics whisper luxury. Philophilles form an orderly queue.

Batsheva

When her obsession with vintage Laura Ashley and Holly Hobbie became overwhelming, Batsheva Hay left her job as a New York attorney to set up her own fashion brand. Specialising in Insta-friendly prairie dresses Batsheva has quickly found an eager fan base amongst New York’s arty, intellectual crowd. Hay’s frilled, feminine dresses have plenty of retro charm, and each collection is made from small runs of vintage fabrics.