American Apparel Returns To The UK

Two years after going into administration, cult Los Angeles fashion basics brand American Apparel celebrates its UK return with a new approach focusing on body positivity and diversity. After closing down 13 stores across the UK in late 2016, the brand relaunches in the UK on April 23rd with a shiny online store and a new campaign, entitled Back To Basics. The product range will feature more inclusive sizing as well as new price points but loyal brand fans will still be able to find classic styles including T-shirts offered in a wide variety of shades, the much-loved Disco Pants, high-waisted jeans, bodysuits, metallic leggings, unisex hoodies and fisherman pullovers.

Following the controversy surrounding American Apparel’s hyper-sexualised images and numerous allegations of sexual harassment against brand founder, Dov Charney, the brand's new owner Gildan - a Canadian retail giant - brought in an almost entirely female executive board. Spearheading the brand's return is Sabina Weber, the Vice President of Brand Marketing. "We did not want to change the brand, rather to refocus it on its positive and powerful aspects. We went through the archives of AA imagery to re-inspire our team and evolve from our own DNA," Weber told Vogue.

"We feature real people, unretouched and authentic. We still use the same flash photography and minimalist design approach. What really changed is our approach to sexy: our models are over 21 and we celebrate their sexiness with confidence, from a woman's point of view – they are in control and we simply celebrate their unique ways of being sexy and body-positive."

The new campaign is certainly reminiscent of the brand's original imagery but whilst previously young girls stared coquettishly into the camera, often stretching in risqué poses, here the models take back control. And though there may still be some way to go in terms of diversity (the majority of the models featured are young and slim) the images are raw and unretouched with models proudly revealing stretch marks and their natural beauty.

"We have a passionate marketing team – mostly young women – who have been passionately contributing to the evolution of the imagery and voice of the brand," Weber continued. "[We] scrutinise every model, every piece of copy, every picture. We want to emphasise body positivity, diversity, inclusivity, empowerment, in a fresh, thoughtful, and culturally relevant approach... There is something deeply personal and special when you are driving every aspect of the brand with a team that is fully focused on the same objective."

The brand is committed to broadening its inclusivity and representation in the coming months. "We just shot our Pride campaign and we used LGBTQ people from all across the gender spectrum to launch our new graphic tees: “They OK’ (celebrating all pronouns across the gender spectrum) and “Still Here, Still Queer”," Weber asserts.

But for now, Back To Basics, the new campaign features a line-up of male and female models all over the age of 21, cast from an open call via American Apparel's social media channels. The launch campaign will be rolled out digitally and across billboards in London and Manchester. The cast sport the colourful wardrobe staples so many of us are more than familiar with, from the mid '00s. "We wanted to tap into the sense of nostalgia that people have for the brand," Weber states. "Everyone has a memory and history of shopping with the brand and those key pieces create a visceral feeling for our customer. And the good thing is they are basics so they never go out of style."

While the brand is wholeheartedly committed to turning around its tarnished image is it equally devoted to ensuring that the clothes are produced ethically and sustainably, especially now they are available at lower price points? "American Apparel has always been ethically made, in facilities where employees were treated with respect and dignity and paid fair wages. Since acquiring the brand we have continued to manufacture our products in facilities governed by the same strong values within the Company’s Genuine Responsibility™ programmes. One of the industry’s leading corporate social responsibility programs is diligently applied everywhere our products are manufactured. Gildan is deeply committed to the development and implementation of innovative solutions that reduce the environmental impact of our operations throughout our entire supply chain."

The marketing team in Los Angeles went to Honduras to see the factory ourselves and learn more about what we did there and we found it quite inspirational. We created a series of documentary videos called Sweatshop Free Stories.

The UK launch begins with just an online offering, however, there are plans to reopen bricks-and-mortar stores. "Our relaunch strategy is digital first: but we are in the early stages of exploring a new innovative concept in retail. We want our store of the future to be a house for the brand, a place where we can interact with our customers…and of course a key component of our multi-channel presence. We are planning on doing it right this time with a selective and strategic presence and an innovative and engaging new concept... The store is the next big thing and it’s going to be a great destination for people so that they can touch and feel our product again."