Toronto Men´s Fashion Week (TOM*) Day 3

The third and final instalment of Toronto Men´s Fashion Week (TOM*) delivered a shorter line up than previous days, but still managed to attain a international level of quality (with just as many attendees.) Recycled clothing sat beside luxury tailoring and industry newcomers in the third and final day of Toronto´s most diverse mens fashion celebration.

KENIYA-X

Godfrey Mensah and Meagan Jett returned to the TOM* runway for the second time, bringing with them their conspicuous upcycled style serving. Duo-tone t-shirts sat beside patchwork demin and mesh layers. Keniya -X have quickly built their apporach of customising street wear and creating a ´new lease of life´ for second-hand clothes. The philosophies of anti-fast fashion and sustainability are concurrent selling points for the brand. Mismatched fabrics, exaggerated trousers and a lot of denim put me in a 90´s grunge utopia for several moments,

FINEZZA- AU NOM DE L´HOMME

A personal favourite of mine was this label. Montreal based Ivan Lehec made his debut at TOM* with an international quality serving of his vision for spring/summer 2016. With made to measure suits and finely tailored pieces, Ivan indended to fully represent the essence and identity of the Finezza man (who clearly has a lot to live up to as his tailoring was utterly exquisite). Flashes of colour, a hint of Dandy, a smudge of Victoriana and some natuical but nice patterns. For me, this was a very English offering ( perphaps a Transatlantic nod the ´Auld Alliance of the United Kingdom and France?) This was a collection born to be worn by a bon viveur.

The final runway walk was led by Paul Mason, leading an army of masked moustached models (Think V for Vendetta) towards his grateful public. I was later told that the mask was intended to be a play on the brand identity of Finezza. Keeping the values robust and traditional, Ivan then took centre stage with his wife and children in appreciation for our attention, which was not at all a challenge for me.

JUST TA

After several successful seasons with TOM*, Alan Ta reutrned to the runway with a bag of dark, light and pastel tones. Androgynous models with flowing, flower crowned hair floated down the runway in an attempt to show us the ´sofer side´ of the male. A gothic influence ran beside this as a juxtaposition to any safety net this this aesthetic may have presented us with. A renaissance winged backdrop and blood red eye make up gave it a slightly dark -romantic theme ( as did the bowls of rose petals carried as offerings by the models.) I particuarly liked the all-in-one short suit and the symmetrical black tops.

CHRISTOPHER BATES

Canadian designer Christopher is currently enjoying something of an international success in Milan. His second Italian made collection offered visions of muted transient colours of the mediterranean evenings (purples and olives met greys and whites) in an offering of summer knitwear, causal wear, formal attire and a rather nice sleek sporty jacket. As a collection it was all there. In fact, many elements here could be translated into a modern man´s capsule wardrobe. This was a collection for a European inspired man who does not take too many risks in fashion.

EMDA

TOM* came to an organic close with its second annual Emerging Menswear Designer Award (EMDA). Launched in 2014 in association with the Toronto Fashion Incubator, it aims to give an opportunity to Canadian based menswear designers (operating under two years) to be considered for the title (which includes a $10,000 cash prize, professional lookbook, feature spread in TOM* magazine and professional mentoring services over the year.)

This years finalists, Thomas Henry Made, Nowhere, Common Grounds, Ante Meridiem and 3 Paradis battled it out for the coveted award on the runway. All elements of the male aesthetic were thoughfully considered within these emerging brands. From bespoke suits to utilitarian chic (and a lot more androgyny) many talents and notions were succinctly presented to the judging board.

After deliberation and discussion, 3.Paradis emerged as the winning designer to the delight of the panel and public. After such an award there is no doubt that we are going to be seeing a lot more of this brand in the future, as they and Toronto Mens Fashion Week continue to go from strength to strength.

Toronto Men´s Fashion Week (TOM*) Day 2

Day 2 of TOM* and the line up continued to promote and portray men’s fashion in all its various forms and facets. From new faces to established brands and celebrity models to celebrity attendees, this was another action packed evening in downtown Yonge. A very special runway show supporting local charity Men´s Fashion 4 Hope meant that this was one day that were not going to forget quickly within this bi-annual fashion celebration.

ATELIER GUARIN

The Toronto based men’s label presented a strong vision for the future. A harmonious fusion of rough mesh fabrics were set against smooth sheer neoprene counterparts. The palette was very simple and clean, almost monochromatic (with blue). This trend of slim fitting leggings / pants is one which is going to be seen many times next year.

SHANON PAMAONG

Is another newcomer to the TOM* Toronto fashion scene. First I saw vintage, then ethnic, then American retro, then a very sober jacket and trouser look. This collection was eclectic, eccentric and broad spectrum to say the least. The 1955 ´Peggy Sue´ bowling style shirt was a winner on its own.

HIP AND BONE

The Montreal based luxury label took the everyday staples of a man´s wardrobe and made them more ´interesting’. This super hip brand mixes casual styling with contemporary elements (and a lot of leather). Snazzy but lustrous silhouettes brought a contemporary ´gloss´ to casual dressing. The hooded leather jacket was one of the key looks of the day.

MENS FASHION 4 HOPE

Local celebrities, brands and sponsors all united for this runway show, who´s aim is to raise money for the support of TOM*´s founder Jeff Rustia´s Kol Hope Foundation and the Hospital for Sick Children. From its inauguration last year, this noble cause intends to augment in exposure alongside TOM*´s increasing annual profile. Superstars and local personalities such as Lennox Lewis, Pan Am CEO Saad Rafi and the cast of Saving Hope (to name a few) took to the runway in a highly engaging selection of looks from menswear store sponsor Gotstyle. This touching philanthropic moment was hosted by Jeff, who took a moment to explain the importance of his dear son´s memory and the rich legacy he has left behind. A tribute to the recently departed Chris Hyndman was also conveyed before the runway exploded into a nine minute fashion extravaganza.

LAFAILLE

Another visual extravaganza of experimental aesthetics. The Montreal based designer softly shocked his audience with a lot of androgyny (think denim bustiers), exposed torso´s (bordering sometimes on almost-frontal-nudity). There were strong elements of J.W.Anderson and Rik Owens here. Oversized outerwear and printed slogans gave this collection a further element of interest (as if it needed it). For me, the heavily perspiring, exhausted models with ECG patches slapped onto their body was a very clever nod to McQueen’s UNTITLED / VOSS runway shows, and it did not go un-noticed.

DALLA

This recently rebranded luxury label (Formally HD Homme) hit the runways for the first time under its new name. Toronto born with East African roots, Hussein Dhalla presented a collection of street inspired, masculine and causal elements in blacks, greys and camouflages (with flashes of white). There was some sexy tailoring and a little bit of rock star confidently tucked away in here.

Toronto Men´s Fashion Week (TOM*) Day 1

August saw the third instalment of Canada´s most up-and-coming fashion event, Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*). The runway shows commenced on Wednesday 19th after several days of exclusive launch events within the city. The three day fashion event is the brainchild of media personality and businessman Jeff Rustia who wants ´to put the menswear market for the city firmly on the map and to showcase national and international talents under the brand of TOM*.´

Located in ´downtown´ Toronto´s Yonge Street, the historic College Park centre played host to a three day visual extravaganza of what the intelligencia of fashion thought that we should be wearing for the spring/summer 2016 collections. The first day was a fusion of street style, Avant Garde and tailoring from local labels within Toronto, then further afield to Montreal and California which as a whole, set a very nice standard for an initiation into our first attendance at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week.

Here are my highlights from the Torontonian talents first day;

PARLOQUE

I saw rebellion, androgyny and international influences. This collection in its entirety was a little more innovative than the normal trend of urban street fashion. It was certainly one of the more diverse servings from the first day, and the entirely the better for it.

NUVANGO

This designer is based not too many blocks away ´downtown’. This tongue in cheek collection fused playful neon pop prints alongside architectural silhouettes and Renaissance influences. Its philosophy and colours worked very well as our initiation into an urban summer beach feel.

PHILIPPE DUBAC

Montreal´s designer-in-residence presented a collection that was sharp, clean, retro and utilitarian. For me, elements of this collection and its muted palette were a little nostalgic. A good allowance was made for the transition from day wear to night wear for the contemporary millennial man. 

PEDRAM KARIMI

Blade runner fantasy? This Iranian / Austrian designer presented a lot of experimental aesthetics in the form of A-line dresses, coats and hats in black, white and camel. For me this was a very European collection with Belgian influences. The nu-millennium head pieces actually complimented this rather intelligent collection.

KENNETH BARLIS

This collection depicted uptown chic and lit up the evening runway. Bright and colourful suits sat alongside the classic jacket and trouser combination in solid, floral and graphic prints. An excellent reinterpretation of slouchy, informal tailoring for the longer, stronger days.

SWAM

The last show of the evening, but certainly not the least. The perfect recipe for engaging an audience are ripped male models in swim wear. Classical beach / swim shots in the full spectrum of colours. I loved the more acidic tones.

Instagram Accident Inspires Jacobs T-Shirt

You can always count on Marc jacobs to make light of a drama (hiring Winona Ryder to model for him after having been arrested for allegedly shoplifting his clothes from Saks Fifth Avenue in 2001 is just one prime example), and an accidental Instagram is no exception. The designer - who in June accidentally posted a picture of his private parts along with the caption "It's yours to try!" - has turned the minor embarrassment into a new product.

Although the original picture only stayed live for a few seconds (having reportedly been meant for a single recipient as a direct message), the power of the screengrab means that it soon became easily accessible online - but, rather than hide and pretend it never happened, Jacobs has released a T-shirt bearing the slogan: "It's yours to try!" The designer sported the T-shirt in an Instagram post last night alongside the words: "I mean the T-shirt!!"

Typically nonplussed about his perceived indiscretion, Jacobs wrote on Instagram after the June mistaken posting: "Yeah. I accidentally posted a pic of my bare ass and took it down. I'm a gay man. I flirt and chat with guys on line sometimes. Big deal!"

Watch Out: Fashion Scout's LFW Four

Anita Hirlekar, JS Shin, Leaf Xia and Typical Freaks have been selected as the designers to showcase at Fashion Scout´s Ones To Watch programme for spring/summer 2016 this September.

An MA textiles graduate from Central Saint Martins. Hirlekar launched her Iceland-based label last year with a focus on innovative fabrications combined with unique handcraft.

Designer Joon-Sik Shin graduated from London College Of Fashion this year and has a background in Italian tailoring. A combination of luxe tailoring and handcraft are the designer's signatures.

Typical Freaks comes from the minds of Seun Ade-Onojobi (Central Saint Martins) and Sonia Xiao (London College of Fashion) and is underpinned by a sense of humour and eccentricity.

New York-based Leaf Xia, a graduate from Parsons the New School of Design, provides a focus on colour and collage.

"The combination of our four designers chosen from countries as diverse as China and Iceland promises to be our most exciting season ever," says Fashion Scout's founder and director Martyn Roberts.

Fashion Scout will take place at Freemasons Hall in London's Covent Garden from September 18 to 22. This will be Fashion Scout's 19th season. Previous designers to have showcased with the event include David Koma, Felder Felder, Helen Lawrence, Eudon Choi and Agi & Sam.

´Andy Warhol Revisited´ Comes To Toronto

With the advent of reality television programmes and a promise of over-night fame, there is an increasing number of people today desperate for their ´15 minutes of fame.´ Little did they know that this resounding prediction came from a New York illustrator 40 years before Big Brother was even thought of.

Andy Warhol, one of Americas most successful art exports, has enjoyed one of the most diverse, colourful ( and twisted) careers known to date.The artist practically invented pop-art, made Campbells soup and Brillo Pads a household brand as well as filming his friend jumping to suicide. In his spare time, he hung out in Studio 52 with Bianca Jagger, Edie Sedgewick and Diane Von Furstenberg during his residency with his company ´The Factory´.

40 years on and 550 kilometres North East, Andy´s talents once again ignite a cities atmosphere. On the 1st July, in a former department store ´Andy Warhol Revisited: A Mirror For Today´ was opened to the general public in downtown Toronto. According to the organiser Ron Rivlin ´If Andy Warhol opened a gallery in Toronto, it would be smack dab in the middle of Yorkville.´

Since the American born, Torontonian raised entrepreneur brought his comprehensive collection of original Warhol prints and paintings to Toronto, the media have claimed it to be the largest Warhol exhibition ever to come to Canada.

“When I was thinking ‘where do I want to be?,’ I was thinking Yorkville because I was thinking that’s where Andy would have had it,” said Rivlin, ¨It’s the hub of fashion and the finance world. He was obsessed with money and fashion.¨

Having left Canada for L.A. 17 years ago to pursue a career in music, he became a talent manager for acts such as Busta Rhymes. It was there, he fell in love with Warhol and purchased his first piece just over three years ago. His collection quickly expanded to more than 100 works when he inaugurated his ´Revolver Gallery´-  a Warhol dedicated space with art for sale. “I’m drawn to the simplicity and power of his art,” he said. “He would bring out the vibrancy of a mundane image and glamorize it.¨

The current exhibition will showcase more than 120 original prints and paintings, mostly from Rivlin’s personal collection and some on loan from other private owners. The works will include pieces from Warhol’s famous Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor and Campbell’s Soup series to name a few. “I can say with certainty that many people in Toronto haven’t seen many of the works that we’re going to be bringing in,” 

The Bloor street intersection with Bay will be Toronto´s homage to Warhol until the end of the year. Rivlin hopes that  “dead centre Toronto” will draw a diverse crowd, including students. Outwith this event (and depending on the exhibition’s success), Rivlin is also considering opening a permanent Warhol space in the city. “I just think it’s a culturally rich city where people will embrace this,” he said. “I’m ecstatic.”

Catherine Baba - The Most Stylish Woman In Paris

They say that the aesthetic of the ´fashion folk´ that live and work in Paris is far greater than the buildings and monuments that surround it. If this is the case, then one of the brightest in the city of lights has to be Catherine Baba (the celebrity stylist and muse of Mario Testino) who was recently voted ´The Most Stylish Woman In Paris.´

Sant Germain De Pres has many small streets with many cool people. To recognise someone instantly is not easy, unless they are a small figure clad in the look of another era with a turban and huge sunglasses, pedalling nonchalantly on a bike with 12 centimetre high heels. Catherine Baba is a very wonderful fashion apparition who lives by her work ethic of ´evoking a language from a style that exists and taking it further.´ And, she literally does just that.

Kooky, quirky, vintage, retro, eccentric and decadent are just some of the adjectives used to describe ´La Baba´. Catherine is Australian by birth but has lived in Paris for over two decades now. This literal bible of vintage fashion has been revered by everyone from Carine Roitfeld and Grace Coddington to Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld. Aside from Anna Piaggi, it is hard to think of anyone more daring and bold in Europe today.

There are many ´rumours´ about Catherine in her adopted Paris (mostly about her real age). She once listed her age as 77, but this could perhaps been a reflection of the year she wished to have been born in. As she put it, ´The golden age of style, darling.´ While all the other fashion folk are bang on trend, Catherine is replacing borsalinos for elegant turbans, baseball jackets for fur coats (always vintage) and mobile phones for an eternal tipped cigarette.

Catherine´s vocabulary is equally as famous as her image. ´Babaism´s´ - such as the use of ´j´adore´, ´voila´ and ´d´accord´ in every other sentence sit beside dadaisms such as ´I´m a slave to accessories. Belts are my oxygen´.

Her current inspirations range from Greta Garbo, the styling of Edward Steichen while embodying the fetish woman within Yves Saint Laurent with a little bit of Gianni Versace. (It would be of no surprise to note Irina Lazareanu, Norma Desmond and Marlene Dietrich all gracing the walls of her boudoir as well.)

Catherine is not your typical commercial fashion stylist. She lives, breathes and works in the golden era of vintage (think 20´s and 30´s vintage high camp alongside bespoke Hollywood glamour pieces which she mixes up with a dash of Stevie Nicks gypsy and 70´s disco diva hair and make-up with barely there brows). She caused a controversy back in April 2010 with PETA by stating in a Vogue interview that she only wears vintage fur.

Notorious for arriving at all of the Paris shows on her bicycle, which she rides while wearing her trademark high heels, Catherine´s portfolio is just as impressive as her wardrobe. Having worked for brands such as Givenchy, Ungaro, Balmain and Chanel as well as magazines like Dazed & Confused, vanity Fair and Vogue, her experience is as rich as the embroidery on her turban collection (to date she has around 100, or so, she thinks).

Earlier this year, Catherine signed a partnership with the jewelry firm Gripoix, to produce a collection of 12 pieces of jewelry as excessive and iconic as her and should be available to covet later this year.

This means whoever you are or wherever you are, you can soon have a little piece of Catherine to glamourise your day.

Viktor & Rolk - Fashion Portraiture

They say that ´fashion is art´, but what happens when ´art becomes fashion´? Over 15 years ago, Hussein Chalayan captivated us with his ´coffee table skirt´ in which a model stepped into a centric coffee table, then pulling it up to produce a wooden structured, A-line skirt.

This philosophy was once again repeated for the recent couture offerings in Paris where Dutch fashion design duo Viktor and Rolf transformed broken picture frames filled with fabric and heavily printed canvases into haute-couture gowns during their latest catwalk show, by taking them off a wall and draping them over models. The Avant-Garde extravaganza entitled ´The Wearable Art Collection´ was showcased within the mezzanine space of the Palais de Tokyo during Paris' Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2015 fashion offering.

During the ten minute spectacle, founding designers of the Amsterdam based fashion house then took to the catwalk to assist in completing the outfits in the live collection. In sequence, the "paintings" were displayed on a partition at the back of the stage which was unhooked by the duo, which then reconfigured the sections of gilded frames and materials onto the models by lifting the pieces over their shoulders or up their legs in front of the engaged audience.

The frames formed exaggerated almost organic silhouettes over simple paint-splattered denim dresses with rolled-up sleeves (designed to look like artists' shirts). Viktor wanted the catwalk to be where "Art comes to life in a gallery of surreal proportions. A dress transforms into an artwork, back into a dress and into an artwork again. Poetry becomes reality, morphing back into fantasy."

The garments at the beginning of the show were blank canvases, made from white fabric shaped with wooden batons around hems and collars. Following on from this, skirts, dresses and capes were all created from the heavy canvas, supported with gold-coloured waistbands and ties resting over the shoulders. The structures of the frames resulted in loose pleats and layers of material.

Throughout the presentation, the fabric of each outfit became more heavily patterned decorated with images based on Dutch Golden Age paintings of the 17th century and a nod to the heritage of their founding city and heritage. "The painterly gesture is achieved through trompe l'oeil techniques: each artwork is executed in a complex layering of laser-cut jacquards, embroideries and appliqués," said Rolf later.

Swans, portraits, nudes and still lifes which created in the style of artists such as Johannes Vermeer and Frans Hals could be spotted as motifs. "Intricate motifs parade the catwalk, transforming Golden Age paintings with the rawness and spontaneity of action painting¨ outlined their main philosophy.

As the show progressed in complexity and tempo, so did the shapes of the garments. The support frames and material were thrust out horizontally from the shoulders and the hips of different dresses. Upon closer inspection, in some areas the beige underside of the material was revealed, aiming to reinforce the idea of clothing-artwork hybrids. One of the final dresses featured a giant collar and a zig-zagging hem that stretched out and up to one side, displaying fabric decorated with a still-life image of fruit (in the style of Rembrandt).

After the show, Dutch art collector Han Nefkens acquired one of the pieces to donate to the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam in homage to their art / fashion curation and archives to the gratitude of all its art loving Dutch followers.

The collection builds on the art references of the duo's spring / summer 2015 haute-couture collection, in which floral gowns and straw head dresses were based on paintings by Vincent van Gogh. This latest instalment will certainly add another flare to the divergence of talents that are turning Amsterdam into a fashion design hub.

Giles Deacon´s Everyday Luxury

He is well versed in fashion collaborations but for Giles Deacon his latest with Debenhams is a particularly poignant one, since the London Fashion Week star worked there as a menswear designer before setting up his eponymous label. Since then he has become a household name in his own right, so how does it feel to come full circle?

"Ha! It's great to be back at Debenhams," laughed Deacon. "Of course the retailer has changed dramatically since my time working there but it's great to be working for such an institution. I'm sure we all have a personal connection to the store as it caters to such a broad church of customer."

His collection for the department store certainly has the attributes that appeal to a wide range of consumers: distinctive, well crafted, and at an accessible price point, what's not to want?

As a designer it's great to reach new audiences, it's about transcending that gap between bespoke and off-the-peg," he explained. "Collaborating with Debenhams enables customers to buy high-quality, designer clothing at high-street prices and I want every woman to be able to say that they are wearing Giles Deacon and with this collaboration that makes it all possible. Also, I don't always have the opportunity to create slightly more casual pieces in my main line so it's been great having the chance to do that with my Debenhams range."

Modelled by the delightful Daisy Lowe, the collection is one that while it will appeal to Deacon's "everyday woman", as he puts it, it will also make her daily commute a catwalk if the designer has his way.

"Every occasion is an excuse to slip on an elaborate full skirt, a faux fur bolero or a perfectly fitted LBD," he shared. "My woman is fearless and always dresses to impress and never wastes an opportunity to do so!"

Giles Deacon Edition At Debenhams is available in store now.

CSM's Surprising New Student

Central saint Martins has a surprising new student on its books: Antonio Banderas. The Mask of Zorro actor made the announcement on his official Instagram account yesterday, accompanying a picture of him leaning over a group of busts with the caption: "The second week of studies at Central St Martin begins. Intense, exciting, serious and fun all at the same time."

He also took to TV to discuss his new found passion, telling daytime television show Loose Women, "It's something that has been on my mind for a long time. Central Saint Martins is probably one of the best schools in the world and so I am going to start studying with them. It makes me feel actually very young to put the elbows on the table again and try to understand another reality. Of course, I won't stop my professional life, I'll continue acting, directing, but this is a new thing."

Banderas follows in the footsteps of many a fashion great to study at CSM (which was ranked by the Business of Fashion as top in the world for undergraduate programmes this week), including Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and John Galliano - and no one is ruling out an Antonio Banderas slot on the London Fashion Week schedule just yet.

How Carrie Nearly Got Away

While she was an applauded actress in her own right before Sex and the City, it was the role of Carrie Bradshaw that made Sarah Jessica Parker, a worldwide household name. But it was the part that nearly never was as Parker had serious reservations about taking it on, according to a recent co-star.

"We, of course, talked about Sex and The City, and turns out, Sarah was reluctant to do the pilot because she didn't really want to do a series," Parker's fellow performer, Seth Rudetsky who starred with her in a recent Provincetown gig, revealed. "However, she loved the script so she filmed it and then forgot about it. Months later she found out the show was picked up and she completely wanted to get out of it. I mean, completely. 

She really didn't want to be tied down to one job because she loved going from gig to gig and being, what she called, a 'journeyman'. She tried various ways to get out of it including telling HBO that she would film three projects for free if they'd release her from her contract! Basically, they convinced her to honour her deal, and she now has no regrets."

During the revealing chat, it seems Parker may have also let slip what has been long suspected, but never confirmed: a further instalment of the hit New York-based drama is on the cards.

"She loved played Carrie Bradshaw and she told us that there may be a project coming up involving all the ladies!" Rudetsky continued, inadvertently disclosing that the project may be a motion picture in the works. "I'll tell you who it probably won't involve: me. I auditioned for the first movie and decidedly did not get cast. I'll also tell you, however, whom it might involve: my mother! She auditioned for the film and got a call back."

One assumes that SJP didn't have to be convinced this time if the rumours turn out to be true.

Claudia Schiffer For Tse

When Claudia Schiffer announced that she was creating a collection for luxury cashmere label Tse back in February, we guessed that it would spurn a serious shopping-list - but then we wouldn't have expected anything less from the supermodel who has spent over 20 years learning what makes the cut.

"I'm trying to apply what I have learned working as a model with the most amazing designers for over 25 years. I have not only learned a lot, but also in particular formed many ideas of my own," Schiffer told us. "I was lucky to start my career working with the best, like Karl Lagerfeld, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino and Gianni Versace, and many more where I have seen first-hand the designers work with the most luxurious fabrics, amazing tailoring and details and I still am learning."

The 18-piece strong collection is testament to how much Schiffer has picked up along the way, with a mix of loungewear and sumptuous knits that are designed to last not just for this season, but to take on loveworn-favourite status for years to come (note the especially covetable bottle-green fisherman knit, the cream Aran sweater and the shawl-collar cardigans). It's an attribute that Schiffer has placed particular importance on, given the way that she runs her own wardrobe.

"I have kept all my clothes from over the years, so I have a great archive to go in and out for each season. For example I found an amazing red Chanel bag from 20 years ago, which is timeless, and then I update with a new pair of shoes or dress," she explained. "Trends always come around again, so a pair of great Stella McCartney jeans from four years ago can be worn again this summer. When I design a collection I always think about longevity - will I still be wearing this in five or 10 years time?"

Cashmere, especially, holds special sentiment with Schiffer - who grew up borrowing from her parents' cosy collection ("I still have one from my father, which still looks new because it's so luxurious") - so much so that it was actually the supermodel that approached Tse.

"I couldn't always find great casual cashmere tops to wear with jeans for every day and as I have been a huge fan of Tse, having been introduced to them in the early Nineties in New York," she recalled. "I called them about collaborating on a knitwear collection and it's an amazing experience working with one of the best in this field."

With a second collection on the horizon (and possible further ones thereafter we're told) Schiffer is well on her way to making the transition to fully fledged designer, with plans to even take a step back from fronting the campaigns and to hire her own models. For now though, she wants to establish her aesthetic first and formost.

"I have always been a model and after more than 25 years in the fashion and beauty industry, it felt natural to dip my toes into design," she said. "I am hoping my message is getting across: timeless, effortless clothes for every day casual chic living, inspired by influences from my life in England."

Claudia Schiffer for Tse launches on Thursday at TseCashmere.com and StyleBop.com.

Pierre's Auction Contents Revealed

Pierre Berge's library auction has incited a buzz around it since its announcement last year (unsuprising given his reputation as a cultural curator, coupled with the revelation that his collection is said to comprise 1,600 titles) and now a selection of the most special lots for the first auction have been unveiled.

Jean Cocteau's Le Requiem, dated 1962 and containing a personal dedication to Bergé appears on the list and is estimated to take between €2,000 and €3,000; it is joined by an autographed first edition of Gustave Flaubert's Madame Bovaryfrom 1857 and his original manuscript for Sentimental Education, which is expected to fetch €600,000; as well as a first-edition of St. Augustine's Confessions, printed in the 1470s.

The first batch is going on display at Sotheby's in New York from September 10 to 13, reports WWD, following showcases in Hong Kong and London in October and November. And the good news if you can't make it this time? Six more auctions are slated to take place in 2016 and 2017.

Meet The New Coco Chanel

Keira Knightly has done it, so have Anna Mouglalis and Audrey Tautou, but now it is Kristen Stewart's turn to take on the formidable role of Coco Chanel. As if the pressure wasn't already on, it's not for an independent project, but for her eponymous fashion house itself, and creative director Karl Lagerfeld is in the director's chair.

The film, which is to be shown at the Chanel Metiers d'Art show this December in Rome, is billed as "a fictional, behind-the-scenes look at a yet-to-be-made biopic about founder Gabrielle Chanel", reports WWD, and shows Stewart "portraying an actress slated to impersonate the designer as a young woman". According to Lagerfeld, who penned the script, the former child star did nothing but impress.

"She played it really, really mean," he said. "You only see her in tests and she's complaining about everything," he said, confirming that Stewart "relished" the role, reports WWD. "She's mean with the director; mean with the producer."

Stewart is no stranger to the French fashion house. A regular on the front row for both ready-to-wear and couture collections over the years, she has appeared as the face of its eyewear collection, on previous advertising campaigns, and even took to the catwalk herself at its most recent couture show. Apt, therefore, that the brand favourite should play its founder.

Rick Owens Defends Assaulting His Model

When a male model at Rick Owens'sspring/summer 2016 menswear show took it upon himself to hold a personal demonstration on the catwalk - holding up a piece of paper that read, "Please kill Angela Merkel Not" as he approached the photographers' pit - understandably the designer was upset. Now, he has shed light on reports that he assaulted the model when he got backstage.

"I was pissed at that moment. I thought, 'Hey, this is my spotlight, and you fucked it up'," he told Surface. "The whole reason I hit the guy was I knew if I didn't react very strongly it might get out that this was some stunt that I had planned. Everybody had to know how strongly I disagreed with this. I don't mind drama, but I don't like death threats."

Despite being no stranger to provocative gestures, Owens insists that there is a fine line between suggestion and an outright slur (the brand asked that images of the outburst were removed from press coverage), revealing that he hasn't seen or spoken to the model, known as Jera, since.

"What he did was just so illogical," he continued. "He was very accepted here and embraced by a community of people who were very affectionate toward him-a group that now feels more hostility toward him than I do because they feel protective of me. It was really a self-destructive gesture. That was my biggest problem-that it was a negative gesture. Whenever I do provocation, I'm always doing something that I feel is based on warmth and kindness and love."

The First Look At Beckham's New Film

David Beckham has given us a glimpse of his acting skills before, but his latest project has propelled him in the major league. Pitched next to Hollywood heavyweights Harvey Keitel, Cathy Moriarty, and rising star Katherine Waterston, the father-of-four stars in Belstaff Film's new short, Outlaws.

Directed by Geremy Jasper and executively produced by Liv Tyler (the partner of Beckham's best friend Dave Gardner), Outlaws was filmed on location in the dusty plains of Mexico and follows the story of The Stranger, a mysterious drifter and motorcycle stuntman played by Beckham, who is haunted by his memories of a beautiful trapeze artist and "hunted by a maniacal director seeking revenge".

"I've had a long relationship with Belstaff, and a successful one, which I've enjoyed," Beckham said of the project. "They came to me with the idea to do a short film and the idea of working wth Harvey and Katherine - it was a given that we were going to do this."

As slick as it is surreal, this is one film you won't want to miss. Watch the trailer below, ahead of the full-length release at Belstaff's London Fashion Week show on September 21. You can watch the footage here.

Vogue: The BBC Documentary Is Coming

The first documentary series to go inside British Vogue will air on BBC Two in 2016 to celebrate their centenary year. They have never previously agreed to allow the cameras into the magazine but 100 years seems a fitting time said Vogue editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman.

The two-part series, which will be produced by Lightbox, will go behind-the-scenes atVogue, both in the office and on location; follow the editors as they attend the international fashion weeks; and explore the processes and people behind the decisions that go in to the making of each issue.

"I am delighted to be working with Lightbox on a documentary to commemorate our centenary," said editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman. "We have never previously agreed to allow the cameras into the magazine but 100 years seems a fitting time to demonstrate what a powerful and exciting force Vogue is."

Lightbox, which was founded by award-winning documentary making cousin duo Simon and Jonathan Chinn - responsible for Man On Wire and Searching For Sugarman, was commissioned by Maxine Watson, the BBC's acting head of documentary commissioning, to produce the series. Richard Macer (in association with his company Platform Productions) takes on the role of director, while Katie Buchanan will serve as executive producer.

"This is a fantastic and unprecedented opportunity to get to the heart of the UK's fashion industry and look at its impact globally," said Simon Chinn. "There will be big characters, compelling storylines and plenty of glamour, but we also want to explore some important questions about the role fashion plays today in Britain and the world beyond."

Barbie's New Shoes

Sophia Webster has announced her latest collaboration and it's with none other than everyone's favourite doll, Barbie. Fusing Webster's signature perspex detailing with the plethora of pink that is so synonymous with the blonde bombshell, the collection is one that exudes both the personalities of the two fashion favourites. It also marks a first for the famously vertiginous pin-up: flat shoes.

"Creating a shoe collection for Barbie has always been my dream project, but getting to be a part of her embracing flats for the first time made it extra exciting, and deeply personal," Webster told us. "I love that this concept strikes a balance between dreams and reality - the idea of getting Barbie in some hi-tops and setting her loose in East London instantly appealed."

Barbie by Sophia Webster comprises nine styles: six for adults, including two pairs of trainers, one pair of flat sandals and three pairs of heels; and three mini-me versions for children, and will launch in Selfridges nationwide and Webster´s website next Thursday, August 27.

But Webster has clearly caught the Barbie bug. Next month she is launching a limited-edition doll which will be encased in a specially designed box and will be wearing a miniature pair of Barbie by Sophia Webster Riko hi-top glitter trainers.

Herve Leger Executive Axed

The Herve Heger executive who made damning comments this weekend about who should and shouldn't wear the fashion label's signature bandage dresses, "is no longer associated with the company," the company confirmed to us today.

Patrick Couderc - the former UK managing director of MJH Fashion, the London-based licensee of the Herve Leger brand - told The Mail On Sunday that, "Voluptuous women and those with very prominent hips and a very flat chest," should not wear the famous dress, the newspaper reports. Furthermore, he said that, "If you're a committed lesbian and you are wearing trousers all your life, you won't buy a Herve Leger dress. Lesbians would want to be rather butch and leisurely."

The brand swiftly issued a statement saying that, "The Herve Leger by Max Azria brand and its parent company, BCBGMAXAZRIA Group, are shocked and appalled by Patrick Couderc's comments made in The Mail on Sunday. BCBGMAXAZRIA Group is working in concert with MJH Fashion, to investigate and establish appropriate next steps. The statements made by Mr. Couderc are not a reflection of Herve Leger by Max Azria or MJH Fashion ideals or sentiments. The Herve Leger by Max Azria brand celebrates sensuality, glamour and femininity without discrimination."