Monday, June 9, 2014

The Man Behind Orlebar Brown

Most of you will have seen Orlebar Brown´s distinctive floral menswear shorts on the beach or boat deck, but the brand's women's ready-to-wear is approaching only its second summer in the sun.

Understated and - imperatively - easy to slip on, the new collection has the functionality of the menswear range (waist clips and towelling fabrics) and a laid-back design sensibility, resulting in a tight edit of beach-to-bar staples - exactly what founder Adam Brown was aiming to achieve.

"It all started back in 2007 when I was on holiday with friends in Rajasthan, I looked around the pool and the women looked great but the men didn't. They were just there in the usual board shorts and boxer shorts, nothing you could wear to lunch afterwards," Brown recalled. "I can remember thinking how silly it was that men had to change for lunch, which is when I came up with the idea of a short that you can swim in, but not a swim short. Personally I don't like packing or like bringing a big bag to the beach - I like to take off into town for a beer, so it had to be practical."

Having no experience in fashion design didn't put him off though (at the time he was flitting between voluntary charity work and freelance photography). Following a three-day business course and a one-week drawing course at Central Saint Martins, the Orlebar Brown label was launched.

"It was really hands-on - a true start-up. I was standing in the queue of the post office in Earls Court a lot to start with," Brown said. "Then we took it from the beach to the resort in 2010 with ready-to-wear and created a full lifestyle collection based around travel. It was important that everything had the same dual purpose though."

Orlebar Brown
Womenswear, however, faced different challenges to the men. "Men shop in a different way to women. When men find a style to suit them, they buy three or four pairs, whereas women are more trend driven and focused on the shape that suits them," he says, before adding, "but she is a lot more vocal about giving feedback - be it good or bad - so we've been able to hone it!"

So, can he sit back a little now that queuing at the post office is no longer necessary? "No, I'm one of those really annoying, horribly involved people - especially around the clothes," he laughed. "I want to concentrate on giving a clear, simple message rather than dilute it too quickly by losing its focus."

As the proud founder of one of the most sought-after logos around, and with a new flagship about to open on London's salubrious Westbourne Grove, focus is one thing Brown clearly doesn't lack.

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