Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Dior And I, The Film

There was a moment before Raf Simons´ debut for Dior (a couture collection no less) that it all got too much. The designer stepped outside the catwalk space (as it busily filled with people and anticipation) and could no longer hold back the tears.

It's all too easy to think that a fashion show and the clothes just happen when it comes to Fashion Week. Amid a social and style circus; a pit of flashbulbs, stars; celebrity and front row gossip; a collection struts out down a catwalk. We want to be that girl; we want that hair and make-up; and we want those clothes. It's a grand feat of production. And it happens twice a year. But behind it, there are the designers: terrific geniuses but humans also. They have feelings, are scared and feel the pressure too. We forget that. Until you see it up close, which is exactly what Dior And I, the new fashion documentary film by Frederic Tcheng does.

"Up until that show day still I could feel his emotions but wasn't sure if they would come across. I really wanted an emotional dimension to the film," recalls Tcheng, who had been in talks with Dior pre-Raf about making a film following the success of his ventures with Valentino: The Last Emperor (2008) and Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel (2011). When the announcement came that Raf was the new creative director, he called straight up and said: "What should we do? I'm ready!"


And what he did was create a beautiful and emotive storytelling of that now famed first show back in July 2012 and everything you didn't know that went on in the lead up to it.

As the film shows, Raf is actually a rather shy character - we get to know him and feel for him along the way - he has, after all, got quite the challenge ahead of him. "He was a little reluctant to be filmed. I wrote him a letter first, a director's statement: how we would film and what interested me in the story. I was already clear that I wanted the seamstresses to play a big role in the film, the encounter between the two," says Tcheng, viewing this as a sort of sequel - what happens when the house has to continue the legacy. The house's former creative director,John Galliano was famously dismissed in 2011 following a public anti-semitic rant.

Tcheng went and filmed for a test week and after being suitably quizzed by Raf and relaying that it was a down-to-earth approach he was after, he was allowed to stay on. And so all those lovely and real, heartfelt and stressful, funny and compassionate moments were captured: when Raf is introduced to the atelier for the first time; when he comes up with seemingly impossible-to-realise ideas (you'll have to watch to find out their fate); when he's too scared to do a finale bow circuit of the catwalk for fear he might faint; when he's being photographed by the great and the good of fashion and film; and most poignantly when he's being photographed post-show with his parents. Aww. Because he's just like us too.

"For me, the process of empathy is crucial when making a film," reflects Tcheng, who found himself personally affected. "Raf, c'est moi. I felt a strong connection with Raf's story, our journeys were similar." This film, the biggest and most emotive he had done yet. "Emotionally I was in a very similar place: excited, scared, overwhelmed. After two months, I felt like I had made that collection with them."

In those two months (by comparison the Valentino documentary was filmed over two years), Tcheng ended up with over 250 hours of footage - not to mention some wonderful characters in the seamstresses and Raf's right-hand man, an incredible insight into one of fashion's biggest appointments and a film that really should go straight to the top of your film viewing list.

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Lupita's Oscars Gown Stolen

Lupita Nyongo´s beautiful pearl-embellished Calvin Klein Collection dress, which she wore to Sunday's Oscars ceremony, has been stolen from her Hollywood hotel room.

The dress, which is reported to comprise over 6,000 Akoya cultured pearls of five different sizes, is worth $150,000 according to Los Angeles Police Department and is thought to have been removed from the room at some point on Wednesday when Nyong'o was absent from The London Hotel.


"A representative of Lupita Nyong'o reported the theft of a Calvin Klein dress that was worn by the actress on the night of the Oscars," deputy John Mitchell, at the West Hollywood Sheriff's Station, told People. "The sheriff's department here in West Hollywood and our detectives are investigating."

As for the hotel, a representative stated, "This is a terribly unfortunate situation, and we are working with law enforcement in their investigation."

Lulu Kennedy For M&S

Marks & Spencer has enlisted Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy to create a capsule collection for its Indigo denim range. Kennedy, who is also co-founder of fashion label Lulu & Co. has never collaborated with a high-street retailer before.

"My love affair with denim began at an early age - so it was second nature for me to develop a casual range as my first high-street venture," Kennedy explained. "Working on the Indigo Collection for Marks & Spencer has been very natural and fun."


"Collaborating with Lulu on this capsule range has been an exciting process," Karen Peacock, head of design for Indigo Collection said. "Her love of travel and holidaying in Mexico has inspired this summer collection and brings a fresh look to the Indigo range and her wealth of experience in the industry has been invaluable. We are eagerly anticipating the reaction."

The 19-piece collection - comprising bold, printed separates, distressed denim and global inspired accessories - will launch in May.

Donatella's Achilles' Heel

One would assume that running a global fashion empire throws up its fair share of problems, but far from any logistical nightmares, Donatella Versace has revealed that the trickiest part of her job lies closer to home.


"It's my self-esteem," she told the International New York Times when asked what she found the hardest. "I trained myself to hide my vulnerability and my insecurities for a long time. I give into these two emotions only when I am alone. At the end of the day, I'm just kind of thinking: 'Is it good enough?' The next day I wake up and I'm like, 'Oh yeah, that was fine.' But usually, in the evening, I have that half an hour when I think I did everything wrong."

But the Versace boss does have friends that she can call on - even if they aren't in Milan where she works.

"I'm the most anti-social person you can think about - even if no one believes me," she said. "This is the city where I work, you know. I don't have many friends here. Actually I don't have any friends at all, out of my office. My friends are around the world; I call them on the phone and talk."

Did You Know Doutzen Is No Longer An Angel

Doutzen Kroes has walked her last Victoria´s Secret catwalk, having finished her contract with the company at the end of 2014. The issue has only been addressed by Ed Razek, Victoria's Secret's chief marketing officer now, following the departure of fellow Angel, Karlie Kloss earlier this week.


"After I posted the news about Karlie Kloss leaving VS I got a number of texts asking me why I hadn't said anything about Doutzen leaving at the end of last year. Fair question," Razek said. "The simple answer is I should have. Doutzen had a lucrative opportunity in Europe and it would have conflicted with her VS obligations.

So, at her agencies' request, we released her from contract. There was no conflict. No animosity. None of the nonsense I've read on Instagram. She had a great business opportunity, and I wanted to be fair to someone I adore and respect. That's all. I honestly believe Doutzen is one of the most stunningly beautiful people in the world. And I always will. I have told her that many times. Now you know."


Kloss became an Angel ahead of her first show in 2012 - the first model ever to graduate to wings automatically - whereas Kroes is a veritable veteran, walking for the first time in 2005 and boasting eight shows since.

Her last appearance for the brand was in the Super Bowl advertisment, screened in January, which saw Kroes and her fellow Angels trying their hand at American football.

Why Granny Vivienne's "Disappointed"

Being told off by your grandmother is nobody's favourite way to spend a Monday, but if you're  Cora Corre, granddaughter of Vivienne Westwood, the feeling is worse still. Westwood chose to reveal publically that she was "disappointed" in Corré for choosing to go skiing rather than walk, as she has done for the past two seasons, in Westwood's Red Label show on Sunday and, as is typical of the outspoken designer, she didn't pull any punches on the topic.


"I think she is wasting her opportunity," Westwood said after the show. "She should use me. I'll be dead and she will think, 'What was that woman talking about?'"

A family friend insisted that there was "no animosity" and that Corré was simply taking a break as she prepares for her A-levels. But this isn't the first time that Westwood has passed comment on the 17-year-old's choices, saying last year: "She's a beautiful girl, but I wish she would use it to stand for something, although it's terrible for me to impose that on anybody. I would also like to see more of her. She's a teenager, she's busy."

Corré stated last summer of her plans to continue modelling once she completes her studies, and revealed that her parents, designers Joe Corré and Serena Rees, who together founded Agent Provocateur were supportive but had cautioned that she shouldn´t get wrapped up in it.¨

Stella On Her Love Affair With Pringle

"I grew up near Hawick so I've been aware of Pringle forever," Stella Tennant told us at the launch of Pringle of Scotland's new knitwear exhibition in London yesterday. "This is a brand that has a 200-year tradition of innovation, clever engineering and an incredibly rich heritage. Pringle presents a really powerful identity, as does Scotland as a country, and that comes through in the contemporary and modern garments that we see today."


Created as part of the brand's bicentennial birthday celebrations, the exhibition traces the brand's history from 1815 to 2015, and will leave London's Serpentine in a few days time to head back north of the border. Entitled Fully Fashioned, the exhibition follows Pringle's evolution from small hosiery firm to international fashion house, and features brand imagery of Tennant, as well as artists David Shrigley and Robert Montgomery, actor Luke Treadaway and Edinburgh Fashion Festival founder Anna Freemantle, all shot by Scottish photographer Albert Watson.

"For me, the most powerful part of the exhibition is the moment when you see the all-in-one hosiery and how clean and modern it is," Tennant explained. "Its simplicity means that it's a timeless undergarment that could be given a context in any decade. You can't quite believe that it's 200 years old because it's something that would be wearable now."


The exhibition includes three short films choreographed by Michael Clark, which explore the role of knitwear in the development of the modern wardrobe including archived items drawn from the Royal Wardrobe, Hawick Museum and The Women Golfers' Museum.


"This bicentennial milestone is so significant when you consider that Pringle was around during the industrial revolution when knitwear wasn't considered fashionable because it was worn as underwear," Massimo Nicosia, the label's head of design, told us. "In the 20th century, Pringle first proposed knitwear as outerwear and subsequently provided sportswear for women when they were given access to golf courses and sports clubs."

"As a designer I enjoy the glamourous side of fashion and think the Fifties was the most pivotal point for Pringle in terms of its image," Nicosia added. "It was all about show-stopping airport arrivals with celebrities wearing the Pringle twinset and carrying the handbag of the moment. Times haven't changed really; women still enjoy making that kind of statement today."

"Fully Fashioned: The Pringle of Scotland Story" will be open to the public from Friday April 10 until Sunday August 16 2015 at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. The exhibition will then tour America and Asia.