New York Fashion Week A/W´24

Experience the grandeur of New York Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2024, marking the illustrious inauguration of fashion month, with forthcoming rendezvous in London, Milan, and Paris. Kicking off with an electrifying debut, Peter Do's sophomore collection for Helmut Lang seduced the audience, seamlessly weaving the narrative of armor and adornment, solidifying his status as one of the city's most captivating visionaries.

´In a momentous New York Fashion Week premiere, Ludovic de Saint Sernin paid homage to the legendary photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, infusing Parisian elegance into the bustling streets of New York. The runway was ablaze with anticipation as iconic labels such as Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, and Tory Burch unveiled their latest triumphs, leaving an indelible mark on the season. Here, we present the standout showcases that defined the pinnacle of style and innovation.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

THOM BROWNE

In a dazzling spectacle on Valentine's Day, Thom Browne's latest show transcended the romantic holiday, delving into darker realms with inspiration drawn from Edgar Allan Poe's haunting poem, "The Raven," penned in 1845. The narrative unfolds around a man haunted by a talking raven after the demise of his beloved, spiraling into a chilling descent into madness. Within this narrative framework, Browne's collection, narrated by the captivating Carrie Coon of The Gilded Age fame, took shape, interweaving elements of Chesterfield puffers and silk moiré into a hauntingly reimagined tale.

Browne's theatrical genius flourished amidst a cast of towering figures exuding an eerie charm, their tousled hair fashioned into sculptural plaits or delicately veiled in mourning attire. The monochromatic palette of blacks and whites evoked a theatricality akin to a series of tweed blazers, whether embellished with checks or deconstructed into patchwork marvels. A motif of black ravens soared across white coats, culminating in a dramatic finale featuring an opulent gold brocade cape, symbolically shed like a "beguiling golden bug" at the show's conclusion.

Dominating the scene was a towering arboreal figure swathed in a colossal 30-foot-high rendition of Browne's iconic Chesterfield puffer—a breathtaking flourish from the designer renowned for his theatrical flair. Thom Browne once again proved his mastery in the art of storytelling through fashion, captivating audiences with his unparalleled vision and showmanship.

GABRIELA HEARST

Gabriela Hearst's creative journey this season was ignited by the ethereal paintings of artist Leonora Carrington. However, rather than appropriating Carrington's art as mere inspiration, Hearst chose to illuminate a cadre of remarkable women who had introduced her to Carrington's world—ranging from esteemed art historian and author Katy Hessel to journalist Jackie Wullschläger and writer Joanna Moorhead. "Teaching us empathy and about how others live; and to dream up a better world for all," remarked Hessel of the surrealist artist's profound influence.

There's an undeniable allure to Hearst's designs, particularly amidst the winter season, with their opulent shearlings and sweeping gowns elegantly paired with riding boots. Yet, upon closer inspection, one discovers Hearst's signature eco-conscious ethos at play. What may appear to be shearling is, in fact, meticulously crafted from shredded post-consumer recycled cashmere sourced from Italian cashmere jumpers—an embodiment of Hearst's unwavering commitment to sustainability. Each garment in the collection is meticulously detailed in a document, elucidating the origin and composition of every fabric, a testament to Hearst's transparency and dedication to ethical practices.

This season's offerings boast a sumptuous array of 100 percent natural fibers, including innovative creations such as fine cashmere corduroy—a groundbreaking debut in fabric production. Liquid silk velvet, woven on historical French velvet looms operated by a lone mill in Lyon, adds a luxurious texture to the collection. Additionally, a printed wool gauze, inspired by flora discovered during Hearst's travels, lends a whimsical yet sophisticated touch to her designs. Through her meticulous craftsmanship and conscientious sourcing, Gabriela Hearst continues to redefine luxury fashion with a harmonious blend of elegance and sustainability.

MICHAEL KORS

In a celebration of enduring style, Michael Kors christened his A/W 2024 collection 'Timeless,' a testament to his unwavering commitment to refining the essence of a woman's wardrobe beyond fleeting trends. Set against the backdrop of the former Barneys New York space in Chelsea—a historic bastion of American fashion—Kors' showcase paid homage to the foundational elements of his eponymous label, echoing a trend observed among several New York designers this season. "Fashion that stands the test of time has always been one of my hallmarks," elucidated the designer.

The collection exuded an aura of refined elegance, encompassing a spectrum of essential garments essential to a woman's closet: impeccably tailored double-breasted suits with nipped waists, leather jackets adorned with plush shearling collars, sleek pointed pumps, and even a nod to casual chic with a luxe hoodie. Infused with touches of New York glamour, sequin-embellished cardigans and delicate lace slip dresses added a dose of allure, while voluminous fluffy overcoats in hues reminiscent of "dusty makeup shades" evoked the insouciant glamour of the 1930s.

"When we contemplate what is truly timeless and enduring, it's quality, simplicity, and sophistication," remarked Kors. "It's about clothing that instills confidence and power, that transcends fleeting trends." With this collection, Kors reaffirms his mastery in crafting garments that resonate with the modern woman, embodying a sense of timeless allure and empowerment.

TORY BURCH

Tory Burch concluded Monday evening's affair with a captivating takeover of the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue, transforming its ornate walkways into a shimmering silver runway. Embracing a newfound sense of creative exploration, Burch shared her vision of reinventing silhouettes and proportions, marking a bold departure from the confines of conventional branding that she has challenged over the past five years.

The collection unveiled a captivating fusion of innovation and elegance, characterised by bonded, heat-sealed garments that exuded an architectural allure yet retained a surprising lightness and fluidity. Textural intricacy abounded, with fronds of tassels and twisting ruffles adorning delicate diaphanous mini dresses, juxtaposed against sleek hair-on-hide dipped outerwear. A sensual undertone permeated the collection, epitomised by the semi-sheer skirt adorned with a shimmering degradé motif, elegantly paired with a faux croc bodysuit and the brand's striking new 'Pierced' pump—a style adorned with sweeping abstract metal embellishments set to dominate the fashion scene in the upcoming season.

"We aimed to elevate the everyday to the sublime," remarked Burch, encapsulating the essence of the collection's ethos. With its intriguing blend of innovation, texture, and allure, Tory Burch's latest showcase epitomises a daring exploration of creativity and style, transcending boundaries to redefine contemporary elegance.

COACH

Presented within the stately confines of the James B. Duke House on New York's Upper East Side—a locale steeped in the aristocratic heritage of the city—Stuart Vevers unveiled a collection that deftly juxtaposed American classicism with the raw, unfiltered eclecticism of urban streets. Drawing inspiration from iconic figures such as John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette, Vevers interwove elements of refined elegance with the gritty spontaneity of city life.

Ruffled debutante dresses in lustrous taffeta and crisply tailored tuxedo blazers were artfully disheveled, evoking the aura of a night spent reveling in the city's vibrant energy. Paired with rugged, worn-in leather boots, the models traversed the grand salons of the building with an air of nonchalant defiance. Adorned with heaps of bags and accessories, including tourist charms depicting the Statue of Liberty and the iconic Big Apple, as well as Yankee caps, emblematic of New York's enduring spirit.

Elsewhere, Vevers curated a highly coveted wardrobe tailored to the demands of urban living, featuring elongated trench coats, sumptuous shearling and tasseled leather jackets, and whimsical sweaters adorned with bows and playful duck motifs. This collection marks a triumphant return to the brand's roots in New York, where it was established in 1941, embracing the city's dynamic essence without succumbing to the allure of fashion escapism. Vevers' musings on New York love stories, inspired by the works of Nora Ephron, resonate throughout the collection, encapsulating the city's unique blend of romance and realism. With this compelling showcase, Vevers reaffirms the brand's steadfast commitment to authenticity and celebrates the indomitable spirit of New York City.

ZANKOV

"Seduction and gusto!" exclaimed Henry Zankov as he unveiled his A/W 2024 collection at his Monday morning presentation in the vibrant Chelsea space. Surrounded by models and admirers, Zankov elaborated on the mood of his collection, emphasising the use of strong, saturated colours infused with vibrant energy, particularly for evening wear. "That's how the seduction happens," he quipped, revealing the essence of his creative vision.

Following his remarkable achievement as the runner-up at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in October 2023, Zankov elevated his presentation to new heights. The streets outside the gallery, adorned with black suburbans, hinted at the anticipation surrounding the event, while inside, a team of PR professionals orchestrated the flow of guests into the light-filled atrium. Building upon his brand's signature perforated knits and intarsias, Zankov introduced a captivating array of garments that showcased a mastery of colour mixing, texture, and innovative design.

The collection featured standout pieces such as tufted hand-worked 'pom pom' knits, a feathery shredded alpaca tomato-orange dress and scarf, and intricately crafted mouline hand-knit crew-necks, inviting tactile exploration. Notably, a red deconstructed jumper captured attention with its effortless yet artful repurposing, with the model's head emerging from an armhole while the sleeves were elegantly knotted at the hip. Scarves emerged as a focal point, ingeniously integrated into garments like a moss green cashmere coat with a built-in neckline scarf, and a chartreuse fine gauge knit with a similarly inventive design.

Henry Zankov's A/W 2024 collection embodies a bold celebration of craftsmanship, colour, and innovation, marking a significant evolution in his design aesthetic while maintaining the allure of seduction and daring creativity.

ULLA JOHNSON

As guests arrived for Ulla Johnson's Sunday morning show, they were greeted by a sensory oasis: the gentle touch of sandy deep pile carpeting and the enveloping embrace of soaring terracotta curtains, creating a serene atmosphere that absorbed the hum of conversation. Within this tranquil space, a striking sculpture by Mississippi-born artist Andrew Ondrejcak, in collaboration with Brooklyn-based artist Abby Cheney, commanded attention, resembling a delicate filigree ring magnified to towering proportions.

In the show notes, Raven Leilani, acclaimed author of "Luster," reflected on the essence of adornment, noting that "In adornment, there is also fantasy... making something beautiful requires something of you." This sentiment resonated throughout Johnson's collection, where the meticulous craftsmanship of artisans from around the world, with whom she has cultivated years-long partnerships, took centre stage. Sequin and bead embroideries breathed life into a black dress and pencil skirt, while crochet work added an exquisite touch of artisanal flair.

Johnson's signature elements of fluidity, romance, and movement permeated the collection, amplified by the introduction of vibrant violet spongy wool and moss green quilted coats adorned with golden brocade print. Tailoring, exemplified by a textured pinstripe pantsuit, and denim, showcased through a dramatically waisted jean jacket, seamlessly intertwined with Johnson's feminine aesthetic. A surprise addition to the lineup came in the form of leather pants, exuding a desirability rarely seen before.

Ulla Johnson's A/W 2024 collection is a testament to her unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, creativity, and feminine allure, offering a harmonious fusion of artisanal detailing and contemporary elegance that captivates the senses and stirs the soul.

LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERIN

In the lead-up to his inaugural show at New York Fashion Week, Ludovic de Saint Sernin tantalised fashion aficionados with hints of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Drawing inspiration from the sensually charged flower photographs of the iconic American photographer, de Saint Sernin was intrigued by Mapplethorpe's provocative assertion that "beauty and the devil are the same thing." This juxtaposition served as the driving force behind the collection, as delicate stamens and blooms from Mapplethorpe's oeuvre graced sheer handkerchief tops and skirts, revealing glimpses of the body beneath, alongside slinky chainmail dresses that hugged the contours of the form.

Injecting a hint of provocative allure inspired by Mapplethorpe's portraiture and his patronage of queer BDSM establishments like The Mineshaft, the collection featured lace-up leather underwear and trousers, the latter provocatively sliced down the back to expose the models' derrieres—an homage to Alexander McQueen's iconic bumster trouser. Eyelet-studded pieces, a signature of de Saint Sernin's design aesthetic, adorned harness-style tops, underwear, and dresses that wrapped and twisted around the body, evoking the sensation of stacked leather belts.

As the models made their final strut down the runway, all eyes turned to Ludovic de Saint Sernin himself, who took a spin amidst the twinkling lights of the cityscape beyond. With an air of confidence and belonging, he left fashion enthusiasts wondering whether he would become a permanent fixture on the New York fashion scene. Only time will tell.

AREA

Area's latest collection presented a surreal and whimsical journey, with designer Piotrek Panszczyk adorning gowns with hundreds of 'googly eyes'—those iconic spinning eyeballs reminiscent of greeting cards and craft projects. Throughout the collection, these playful eyes appeared in various sizes and forms, embellishing skirts and dresses in leather and shiny silver studs, and even transforming a Dalmatian-style print that adorned monastic hooded gowns and oversized shirting.

Drawing inspiration from both the surrealist movement of the 1920s and 1930s and the vibrant energy of Pop Art, Panszczyk infused the collection with colourful and cartoonish elements. This was evident in the vibrant floral motifs, embellished with Area's signature crystal adornments, which added a touch of whimsy to the garments. Crystals, synonymous with the brand, were magnified in size, creating oversized necklaces and tasselled skirts that resonated with a sense of opulence and luxury.

While some of the more extravagant pieces may be reserved for red carpets and music videos, the collection also featured crystal-studded jeans and sleek Area-branded tank tops, offering a wider appeal to fashion enthusiasts. With the exciting announcement of a partnership with Amazon's luxury fashion division to sell its collections, Area is poised to reach an even broader audience, blending avant-garde design with accessibility and innovation.

KHAITE

On a postcard, Catherine Holstein's succinct personal statement greeted guests as they settled in for Sunday evening's show at Chelsea Piers, delving into themes of generational legacy and the ebb and flow of memory that have preoccupied the designer. Despite the intimate welcome, the show's set contrasted sharply—a cavernous black interior stretching into darkness with an oil-slick floor roped off for effect.

With expectations high for exceptional gloss, Holstein delivered on all fronts, thanks to a powerhouse team responsible for lighting, set design (led by her husband, architect Griffen Franzen), music, styling, and overall show mastery. As for the clothes, sharpness prevailed with supple leather jackets boasting right-angle shoulders, cropped boxy military peacoats, and impeccably tailored tuxedo jackets. Even fox-fur chubby coats maintained perpendicular proportions and defined lapels.

However, Holstein also explored lightness, fluidity, and volume, evident in duchess satin paper bag waists, a luxurious leather cocoon coat, and gravity-defying silk gazar tops and skirts that seemed to softly ripple away from the body. Evening looks exuded a disheveled insouciance, embodied in crinkled silk slips and gowns with sleeves crafted from swathes of featherweight silk chiffon. With this collection, Holstein once again showcases her mastery of juxtaposing sharpness with levity, creating garments that resonate with both strength and elegance.

ECKHAUS LATTA

In lieu of traditional collection notes, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta provided a more abstract evocation of the season's mood, describing it as "remembering America as though you're standing on an orange milk crate hearing it crack under the weight of you thinking: 'what will happen next?'" Set against the breathtaking backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the New York City skyline, accompanied by a live soundtrack featuring renditions of iconic songs by Lou Reed, Lana Del Rey, and Frank Sinatra's "New York, New York" by Los Angeles-based musician Loren Kramar, the collection pondered the essence of American dressing and the role of American designers in today's landscape.

Amid discussions during fashion week about the challenges faced by young designers showing on the New York schedule, the duo embraced a shift towards minimalism, albeit within the bounds of their signature undone aesthetic. They honed in on the Eckhaus Latta codes with newfound clarity, presenting a collection that felt both fresh and familiar. Standout pieces included surprisingly sharp shearling overcoats juxtaposed with featherweight sheer jersey tops, as well as shaggy ribbed knits with undeniable real-world appeal.

A mood of disheveled glamour permeated the collection, evoking the melancholy resonance of its doomed America soundtrack. Spaghetti-strapped silk slip dresses were artfully sliced into streamers at the hem, while iridescent fabrics were gently ruched and layered over mini dresses for the closing looks, exuding an air of ethereal allure. Through this introspective exploration of American identity and design, Eckhaus and Latta continue to redefine contemporary fashion with their distinct vision and unwavering creativity.

PROENZA SCHOULER

This season, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a stripped-back outing for Proenza Schouler, a deliberate shift in mood decided the evening before the show. The designers opted to shelve their more embellished and embroidered garments in favor of a more refined aesthetic, reflecting their ongoing commitment to eschew ephemeral trends in favor of a rigorous exploration of the Proenza Schouler woman's identity—a journey of evolution rather than revolution.

The collection showcased sharply cut tailoring and enveloping overcoats reminiscent of 1990s minimalism, alongside diaphanous dresses that sensually draped around the body, echoing silhouettes from previous seasons. Blanket-like knits, artfully sliced into frayed cut-outs, provided a striking conclusion to the show, evoking a sense of comfort and soulfulness.

Speaking backstage, Hernandez described the collection as being about "beauty and enveloping layers, comfort and soulfulness," emphasising the importance of softness, luxury, and sensuality in the garments. With this collection, McCollough and Hernandez reaffirmed their status as one of New York Fashion Week's most consistent talents, drawing the attention of traveling editors and cementing their position as a leading force in the industry.

"We want to make clothes that don't feel throwaway, that you're going to own for a long time," McCollough concluded, reflecting their belief in creating enduring pieces that resonate with the modern consumer's desire for longevity and quality in their wardrobe choices.

TOMMY HILFIGER

Tommy Hilfiger's choice of Grand Central Station's Oyster Bar for his aptly named 'New York Moment' show was undoubtedly poignant and fitting. The station's famed cream marble atrium provided a spectacular backdrop, where onlookers eagerly awaited the arrival of their favorite TikTok celebrities and notable personalities like Sofia Richie Grainge, Damson Idris, Sonam Kapoor, Junho Lee, and Jon Batiste, whose finale performance electrified the entire room.

Inside, 'The Tommy,' a secret saloon bar serving martinis and champagne, hosted an unexpectedly intimate gathering, where editors congregated around cocktail tables while Questlove curated a soundtrack inspired by New York's diverse boroughs. Reflecting Hilfiger's longstanding connection to youth culture and music, the event exuded a slouchy, youthful energy synonymous with the brand's identity.

The collection itself celebrated the essence of 'classic American cool,' revisiting essentials of the American wardrobe with a fresh and relevant perspective. From black and white rugby shirts with generously proportioned sleeves to roomy chinos and effortless layering of shirting under long-line cardigans and trench coats, the garments exuded an air of effortlessness and relatability. A pleated skirt paired with block-heeled boots epitomised a fashion-forward silhouette with real-world appeal, while standout pieces like the shearling motorcycle jacket and oversised tweedy puffa undoubtedly sparked interest and desire among attendees.

Moreover, the show marked a departure from the see-now, buy-now approach, aligning with the traditional fashion week schedule to accommodate the elevated clothing production standards. With an emphasis on Italian-sourced fabrics and intricate production processes, this adjustment reflects Hilfiger's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that each piece meets the brand's exacting standards before reaching the market.

WILLY CHAVARRIA

Willy Chavarria's shows possess an inexplicable magic, establishing him as one of the most captivating talents at New York Fashion Week. His journey, including design roles at American mega brands like Ralph Lauren before launching his eponymous label, reflects a deliberate and strategic approach. This method allowed him to cultivate Willy Chavarria the brand when he felt confident in his vision and design codes, which are deeply rooted in the multiplicity of New York street culture, where he now resides, and his Mexican-American upbringing in Fresno, California.

His perseverance and dedication have paid off, evident in his recognition as the 2023 Menswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA awards and his growing presence on the red carpet, with notable admirers like Billie Eilish. Furthermore, his collection will soon be stocked in prestigious retailers like Barney’s and Saks. The ambiance of his shows is often characterised by a buzzy and celebratory atmosphere, complemented by rows of church candles and religious ephemera that serve as recurring motifs in his work.

Chavarria's signature voluminous silhouette, reminiscent of both baggy streetwear and the opulence of traditional couture, remains a focal point. However, he infuses freshness into his designs through new fabrications, such as houndstooth wool featured in leaner trousers and elongated overcoats. A mood of refinement permeates the collection, with sweaters elegantly draped around the neck and brilliant tuxedo-style tailoring, featuring dramatically pitched lapels, adding a sense of sophistication and edge. Through his distinct aesthetic and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, Willy Chavarria continues to captivate audiences and redefine contemporary menswear.

HELMUT LANG

"Protection versus projection," remarked Peter Do as he unveiled his sophomore collection for Helmut Lang, marking the opening of New York Fashion Week. "The way we protect ourselves is the way we define: armour or adornment?" This message resonated throughout the collection, echoed in the printed notes, which bore the same all-caps logotype as Lang's own campaigns.

The garments themselves spoke to this dichotomy, with shirts and trousers crafted from bubble wrap, symbolising both protection and sensuality as they exposed the inner workings of the garment beneath. Other pieces, such as knits that enveloped the face and body, offered protection against the elements. A crescent-shaped bag, reminiscent of an airplane pillow, suggested comfort and security, while technical vests recalled the "bulletproof" vests from Lang's archival collections.

The collection's inspiration stemmed from a deep observation of New York's dress codes, reflecting the city's demands for both protection and self-expression through clothing. However, while the collection astutely mined hallmarks of the Helmut Lang archive, it sometimes felt like it lacked the unique sensuality and subversion that defined the brand's seminal 1990s collections. This balance is more finely struck by Do in his eponymous brand's collections, which he will showcase later this month in Paris on February 27th.

Through this exploration of protection and adornment, Peter Do's collection for Helmut Lang offers a thought-provoking reflection on the complexities of modern dressing and the interplay between functionality and expression.