´This latest edition continued to uphold the week's rich legacy, commencing with the highly anticipated return of historic British house Dunhill after a four-year hiatus, under the guidance of new creative director Simon Holloway. JW Anderson, led by its eponymous designer Jonathan Anderson, also captivated audiences, reminiscing on his early rise to prominence at Fashion East in the 2010s. Burberry, helmed by Daniel Lee, presented its third runway show for the esteemed British label at Victoria Park on Monday evening, drawing considerable attention.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald
The schedule encompassed a diverse array of designers, including stalwarts like Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, and Erdem, alongside a vibrant showcase of next-generation talent, featuring KNWLS, Aaron Esh, and Conner Ives, among others. The Central Saint Martins MA fashion show further underscored London Fashion Week's commitment to fostering emerging creativity and pushing the boundaries of fashion innovation.
BURBERRY
Daniel Lee's third runway collection for Burberry marked a return to the great outdoors, as showcased in a vast tent set up in east London's Victoria Park. Drawing inspiration from Burberry's heritage of outdoor wear, Lee's collection exuded warmth and protection, encapsulating the brand's synonymous relationship with outerwear.
The thematic link of the great outdoors has been evident throughout Lee's opening triptych, initially inspired by tents and outdoor-wear from the late 19th and early 20th centuries found in Burberry's archive. "Burberry's heritage of the outdoors continues to inspire me," remarked the Yorkshire-born designer. The runway presentation was accompanied by a soundtrack featuring a collage of Amy Winehouse clips and music, inspired by her tenacious desire to express herself authentically.
The collection showcased Burberry's iconic outerwear, including a funnel-neck moleskin version of the trench coat, abbreviated parkas, puffers, and hefty shearlings. Textural richness prevailed, with British and Irish wool and fabric used across pleated skirts, zip-front trousers, and enveloping knitwear, all designed with functionality in mind for outdoor wear. The diverse lineup of models, featuring industry icons such as Agyness Deyn, Lily Donaldson, Lily Cole, Naomi Campbell, and Edie Campbell, evoked a sense of nostalgia for Burberry's cultural prominence in the 2010s.
Reflecting on the challenges of designing for a brand with such broad appeal, Lee emphasised the importance of having a distinct point of view. With this collection, he made a bold statement, offering seductive propositions for real-world winter dressing while pushing the boundaries of Burberry's traditional aesthetic. "You can't just make a simple trench coat forever," noted Lee, underscoring his commitment to innovation and evolution within the iconic British brand.
AARON ESH
Aaron Esh, the burgeoning London-based designer, unveiled a captivating winter collection on Sunday evening, bringing the curtain down on London Fashion Week in an intimate show at east London's Sarabande. Esh's recent inclusion in the foundation, established by Lee McQueen to support emerging artists and designers, underscores his rising prominence in the fashion scene.
Drawing inspiration from the dress codes of his inner circle, Esh's collection builds upon his runway debut in September 2023, where he showcased his designs at Tate Modern against the backdrop of London's iconic skyline. Rooted in the vibrant energy of his native city and its dynamic streets, Esh's designs capture a disheveled sensuality, blending slinky bias-cut dresses, smeared eyeliner, sunglasses, caps, and hoodies with intriguing tailoring.
The collection exudes an effortless allure, with wide-lapelled tuxedos featuring poker-straight hems that evolve into expansive overcoats, and pinched hooded tailored jackets cinched closed by the models' hands. Esh aims to imbue his clothing with a sense of ease that belies the meticulous craft and construction behind each piece, an ambition realised as the models exude an air of nonchalant sophistication akin to returning home from a night out or the morning after.
Notably, the collection introduces skinny jeans, signaling a revival of the silhouette popularised by Hedi Slimane during his tenure at Dior Homme in the 2000s. Slimane's distinctive fusion of subculture influences appears to inspire Esh's evolving body of work, adding depth and resonance to his growing oeuvre.
JW ANDERSON
Jonathan Anderson's A/W 2024 collection took a nostalgic journey into the eccentricities of everyday life, drawing inspiration from nosy neighbours, humble M&S knickers, and forgotten horse riding trophies. Presented at Marylebone’s Seymour Leisure Centre, a departure from The Roundhouse, Anderson's vision unfolded with a twist, capturing a mood of "grotesque everydayness" through distorted proportions and exaggerated details.
Knit dresses adorned with oversized stitches, cascades of blown-up haberdashery embellishments, and layers of ribbed underwear and vests mingled with house slippers and brassy grey curly wigs, creating a strangely captivating ensemble. Anderson's adeptness at traversing the realms of seduction and the grotesque was on full display, showcasing his unique ability to seamlessly blend the alluring with the unconventional.
In a nod to interior aesthetics, twisted dresses reminiscent of curtains and curtain ties draped elegantly around the models' bodies, with a pearl iteration offering a modern twist on bridal attire. Outerwear pieces paid homage to British heritage styles, reimagined in oversized silhouettes with a slightly disheveled charm. Meanwhile, timeless staples like striped sweaters and sweatpant shorts added a sense of familiarity amidst the collection's avant-garde exploration.
Anderson revealed backstage that the collection was a contemplation of Britain's past, refracted through a lens of nostalgia and subversion. He remarked on the current trend of young people rediscovering and glorifying elements from the past, reconfiguring them in a futuristic context. This approach to nostalgia, he noted, serves as a bridge between generations, transforming it from a daunting prospect into a catalyst for innovative reinterpretation and forward-thinking design.
SIMONE ROCHA
Simone Rocha's A/W 2024 collection marked the conclusion of a three-part series, beginning with "Dress Rehearsal" and culminating in "The Wake." Presented in the medieval church St Bartholomew-the-Great in Smithfield, the collection delved into the mourning attire of Queen Victoria following the death of Prince Albert, serving as a poignant exploration of darkness intertwined with beauty.
Faux fur adorned delicate, nearly-transparent tailoring, evoking a sense of somber elegance. Crystal-embellished corsets, reminiscent of Rocha's collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, added a touch of shimmering opulence. Unexpected accessories, such as soft-toy lambs carried by the models, paid homage to mythical creatures serving as guardians in churches.
Mourning blacks were reimagined in tie-hem anoraks, paired with faux-fur stoles adorned with crystals, showcasing Rocha's ability to infuse traditional elements with contemporary relevance. Rocha explained backstage that the collection drew inspiration from preserved garments and archival references, aiming to seamlessly blend historical influences with modern sensibilities.
Overall, "The Wake" served as a poignant conclusion to Rocha's triptych, weaving together themes of mourning, tradition, and renewal in a collection that resonated with both depth and beauty.
MOLLY GODDARD
Molly Goddard's latest collection was staged against the vibrant backdrop of a mural by London Group artist Ivon Hitchens, setting the tone for a collection characterised by freewheeling creativity. Held at Cecil Sharp House, the home of the English Folk Dance and Song Society in north London, the show drew inspiration from the dynamic composition of Hitchens' mural, which depicts abstract figures dancing in a mythical woodland.
Goddard's design process began with an experimental fitting, where vintage pieces, samples from her archive, and toiles were combined to spark the collection's direction. Inspired by shapes and forms, the designer explored combinations of garments, pulling in, pushing out, and smushing fabrics to create dynamic silhouettes. Influenced by the haute couture techniques of Balenciaga and Dior, Goddard infused everyday wear with elasticated and tie fastenings for a relaxed yet sophisticated feel.
Tulle played a prominent role in the collection, with tightly ruffled shapes resembling "blobs" adorning skirts, shirts, and dresses, adding drama and texture to the looks. These ethereal tulle pieces were juxtaposed with slouchy sweaters, cowboy jackets, and polka-dot tops, creating a refreshing blend of whimsy and sophistication that characterised Goddard's signature style.
ROKSANDA
Zendaya's recent appearance in a plum-hued Roksanda suit at the London premiere of "Dune: Part Two" turned out to be a preview of the A/W 2024 collection presented at the Tate Britain. Designer Roksanda Ilinčić drew inspiration from the iconic architect Le Corbusier, particularly his holiday cabin, Cabanon de Le Corbusier, located in Cap Martin, France. The collection featured tapestries referencing the cabin's murals, with fabrics like melton wool, boucle, fil coupé jacquard, and faux fur evoking the comfort of home interiors.
Roksanda's signature use of colour was prominent in the collection, with shades like Chartreuse-Verse, Canvas, Dark Flamant, and Grey-Melange dominating the palette. Sporty elements, reminiscent of windbreakers and wellington boots, were incorporated, with footwear produced in collaboration with Fit Flop. The show concluded with oversized taffeta dresses resembling tents, evoking imagery of a windswept day by the coast followed by the warmth of a lavishly decorated home.
16 ARLINGTON
Marco Capaldi's A/W 2024 collection for 16Arligton was inspired by Charlie Fox's 2019 exhibition "My Head is a Haunted House," which explored childhood obsessions with werewolves, bats, and monsters. Capaldi translated this theme into a more elegant context, infusing his sharp, streamlined vision for the brand with touches of strangeness. Swathes of shaggy faux fur and clattering tinsel looks added a whimsical yet sophisticated element to the collection.
The garments evoked a sense of the monstrous, with diaphanous white dresses reminiscent of Frankenstein's bride and shirts and sweaters tied around the neck in a nod to unconventional styling. Capaldi emphasised that the collection was not about Halloween but rather about human nature, borrowing the title "I’m Not Sorry, It’s Human Nature" from Madonna. He aimed to celebrate those who reject societal norms, finding strength, power, and beauty in non-conformity. These individuals were the inspiration behind Capaldi's designs for 16Arlington.
DUNHILL
Dunhill's first runway show since 2020, under the creative direction of Simon Holloway, took place at the Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery, a venue steeped in history and classicism. This choice signaled a return to Dunhill's British heritage, celebrating its 130th year. The presentation harkened back to traditional salon-style fashion presentations of the early 20th century, with low-lit individual tables, gin martinis, and cucumber and caviar sandwiches.
Holloway described the A/W 2024 collection as a celebration of Dunhill's origins and evolution into a unique British luxury house. Drawing inspiration from the brand's rich tailoring heritage and tradition of dressing figures from stage and screen, the collection featured a range of garments reflecting the "finer things in life." From nods to motor racing with suede field jackets and leather driving gloves to outdoor pursuits with gabardine chinos, heritage check blazers, and corduroy, the collection encapsulated a sense of refined elegance.
Evening wear was also prominent, including an elegant ivory tuxedo with matching bowtie and overcoat, paired unexpectedly with sneakers. Holloway emphasised that these elements represent Dunhill's core strengths and expressed hope that the collection would capture a refined yet international spirit, setting the tone for his tenure ahead.
FASHION EAST
This season's Fashion East designers, Olly Shinder and Johanna Parv, presented their own interpretations of the nine-to-five wardrobe, each with their distinctive twists. Shinder, known for his exploration of nightlife uniforms, shifted his focus to the corporate world, offering a queer and refined take on the corporate uniform. Pieces like "middle managerial" shirting with sliced backs and clean-lined functional sets with PVC details conveyed a sense of displacement and subversion. Alongside these, Shinder introduced dance floor-ready pieces such as latex bodysuits and abbreviated mini shorts, catering to a diverse audience.
On the other hand, Parv explored the functionality of sportswear and technical fabrics, aiming to incorporate them into various aspects of a woman's wardrobe. Her polished collection for this season drew inspiration from the "topography of the city" and urban life's demands, resulting in darker and more sensual pieces. Skirt suits with front and shoulder cut-outs and featherweight zip-up mini dresses reflected this aesthetic. Parv's collection was complemented by clever accessories like leather bumbags and handbags with adjustable nylon straps, reminiscent of backpacks. As Parv moves forward, her innovative approach to blending sportswear elements into everyday wear will be intriguing to watch.
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