Is The Row’s No Social Media Policy The Ultimate Act Of Quiet Luxury?

The Row showed their autumn/winter 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday, but you couldn’t be faulted for not knowing about it. You probably haven’t seen any shaky front (or back) row videos on Instagram like you have from every other show, because the brand – the longstanding mascot of the quiet luxury movement – requested that guests refrain from taking photos or filming at the show. Therein lies the question: if you went to a The Row show and didn’t take a video… were you even there?

Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic of the New York Times, posted the label’s ask of attendees on Twitter (now X): “The Row looks forward to having you at the Winter 2024 Collection Presentation on Wednesday, February 28th at 12pm. We kindly ask that you refrain from capturing or sharing any content during your experience.” The disappointment was palpable, from fans and guests alike. “Oh. Ok,” Friedman added.

Nobody wants to be the person glued to their phone for an entire show, but capturing content straight from the runway has practical benefits. It can help buyers and editors identify which pieces they want to order for stores or shoots (the brand circumvented this gripe by giving guests notepads and pens to write their show notes), and videos capture how garments move in ways that photos cannot. But let’s be honest, another reason people take photos and videos is for the clout. Securing a seat at any show, especially for a particularly buzzy brand like The Row, is an exciting moment in any fashion fanatic’s life. When you get one, you want people to know about it.

As the old adage goes, money screams and wealth whispers, and there is absolutely no screaming at The Row, a brand that sells white T-shirts for £330. While only a slim margin of people are able to buy into it, the brand has managed to place a limit not only on who can afford the clothing, but who can see it. (That is, until the runway photos come out, though they are expected to be extremely delayed.)

Sure, anyone with the money can buy a Margaux bag. But scoring an invite to the show opens up a whole new level of exclusivity. In making that experience even more restrictive, they’ve managed to create the ultimate stealth wealth experience. The message is clear: if you’re going to The Row’s show, you shouldn’t seek validation by telling everyone about it. The knowledge that you were there should be enough.

Milan Fashion Week A/W´24

Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024 dazzled with a myriad of captivating debuts and visionary shifts in creative leadership. Stepping onto the illustrious stage were renowned fashion houses Tod’s and Blumarine, introducing new creative directors who ignited the runway with fresh perspectives and innovative designs. Matteo Tamburini, celebrated for his tenure at Bottega Veneta, assumed the reins at Tod's, while Walter Chiapponi, formerly of Tod’s, ascended to the helm at Blumarine, replacing the esteemed Nicolas Brognano. The illustrious house of Moschino also heralded a new era under the stewardship of Adrian Appiolaza, formerly of Loewe, infusing the brand with his unparalleled vision honed over a decade as the ready-to-wear design director. Amidst the whirlwind of transformations, Milan Fashion Week witnessed the triumphant return of Marni to its hallowed runways, marking a notable shift after seasons of captivating audiences in Paris, Tokyo, and New York.

"Milan Fashion Week A/W´24 showcased an electrifying fusion of audacious textures, vivid colour palettes, and enduring sophistication. Designers ingeniously crafted garments that seamlessly blended contemporary flair with timeless elegance. Runways pulsated with daring silhouettes, from voluminous coats to sleek tailored ensembles, each piece exuding confidence and individuality. Rich fabrics such as plush velvets, sumptuous silks, and luxurious furs dominated the collections, enveloping the audience in a sensory journey of opulence. The season celebrated diversity, with designers embracing inclusivity in their casts and designs, amplifying voices and perspectives across the fashion landscape. This current edition epitomised creativity, innovation, and unapologetic glamour." - Charles Daniel McDonald

Prada commanded attention with an awe-inspiring A/W 2024 collection, masterfully crafted by the visionary duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Drawing inspiration from 'fragments of the past,' the collection emerged as a poignant ode to the future, seamlessly blending heritage with innovation. Meanwhile, Matthieu Blazy's latest showcase at Bottega Veneta celebrated the beauty of the mundane, infusing each garment with a profound sense of humanity amidst a world in flux. The illustrious lineup of Italian fashion powerhouses, including Giorgio Armani, Max Mara, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Dolce & Gabbana, graced the stage, each presenting their own distinctive interpretation of elegance and luxury. In this exclusive showcase, we unveil the crème de la crème of Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024, where tradition intertwines with innovation to define the future of Italian couture.

GIORGIO ARMANI

As Milan Fashion Week drew to a close, the illustrious Mr. Armani took centre stage on Sunday morning, offering a grand finale befitting his legendary status as a trailblazer in Milanese and Italian fashion for nearly five decades. Set against the backdrop of the intimate Via Borgonuovo space within the iconic headquarters, the maestro unveiled a mesmerising collection of languid glamour, infused with a spirit of rejuvenation. Entitled 'Winter Flowers,' the collection blossomed from the concept of renewal, drawing inspiration from the resilient blooms that defy the chill of winter, symbolising beauty and regrowth. This thematic thread echoed the sentiments expressed by Matthieu Blazy in his recent Bottega Veneta presentation, which explored the resilience of desert flora and cacti.

In Mr. Armani's vision, this concept translated into a symphony of extraordinary surface embellishments. Painterly floral prints adorned diaphanous layers of organza, while delicate beaded dragonflies danced across the fabric, casting a spell of ethereal elegance. The colour palette ranged from serene pale blues and lush greens to the profound depths of nocturnal blacks and navies, creating a powerful tableau of contrasting hues. With 'Winter Flowers,' Mr. Armani reaffirmed his mastery of couture craftsmanship and his unwavering ability to capture the essence of renewal and beauty in every stitch. As the curtains closed on Milan Fashion Week, his collection stood as a testament to the enduring allure of Italian style and the eternal cycle of rebirth that inspires it.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Matthieu Blazy's latest collection marked a departure from last season's globe-trotting spectacle, embracing a more introspective tone amidst a backdrop of giant Murano glass cactuses blooming in a serene wood-floored show space. Drawing inspiration from the resilient desert plant, Blazy imbued his collection with the spirit of survival and regeneration, echoing the profound resilience required to thrive in challenging landscapes. "In a world ablaze, there's a profound humanity in the simple act of dressing," Blazy mused, envisioning his creations emerging from scorched earth, ready to embark on a journey of renewal. "The idea of rebirth is beautiful. These are the flowers that bloom after the earth is burnt – they give a sense of hope. They come back stronger than ever."

With a reverence for the everyday, Blazy elevated the mundane to monumental proportions, infusing the quotidian wardrobe with an aura of allure and confidence. Trench coats, collared shirts, and knitwear took on new life through expansive proportions and innovative fabrications, each garment a testament to resilience and purpose. From instinctively twisted gowns adorned with shiny gobstopper fastenings to fronds of bouncing pleats evoking flames and fire, Blazy's collection unfolded as a narrative of transformation and rebirth. Faded motifs of maps hinted at the wanderlust within us all, a reminder of the eternal quest for new horizons. "In times of uncertainty, elegance becomes a symbol of resilience," Blazy reflected. As the world grapples with adversity, his collection serves as a beacon of hope and a celebration of the enduring human spirit. In the act of dressing each day, we affirm our dignity and our capacity to rise from the ashes, renewed and empowered.

JIL SANDER

Lucie and Luke Meier's latest collection for Jil Sander epitomised a rich tapestry of colour and texture, eschewing traditional seasonal themes for a more expansive evolution of their design ethos. Rooted in a quest for balance between sensitivity and form, intimacy and presence, the A/W 2024 collection unfolded within a verdant, immersive capsule adorned with striking cobalt-blue horns, inviting guests into a world where sound and music served as catalysts for emotional exploration. The runway echoed with the melodic strains of a live soundtrack by American singer-songwriter Mk.gee, setting the stage for a journey through the depths of human emotion. Beginning with vibrant molded dresses and impeccably tailored suits, the collection gradually transitioned towards more dramatic silhouettes, evoking the opulence of mid-century haute couture with a series of captivating caped gowns.

Texture and fabrication played pivotal roles, with quilted down and diaphanous chainmail suggesting a sense of protection, while whimsical floral jacquards and fuzzy handbags added a touch of playful charm. Long fronds of tassels trailed gracefully from knitwear, infusing each ensemble with a sense of movement and vitality. At its core, the A/W 2024 collection from Jil Sander was a testament to the brand's commitment to sensory exploration and sartorial innovation. With each piece, Lucie and Luke Meier masterfully crafted a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, inviting wearers to embark on a transformative journey where every garment tells a story of elegance and grace.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana reaffirmed their devotion to enduring sartorial elegance with their latest collection, drawing inspiration from the iconic tuxedo. To amplify the collection's timeless allure, the duo assembled a stellar cast of industry luminaries, including Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Mariacarla Boscono, and Eva Herzigova. "The tuxedo is the ultimate symbol of pure style," the designers declared. "For us, only style transcends fashion: the simpler a piece, a classic like the tuxedo, the more perfect it is, eternal, free from the constraints of time." Showcasing a myriad of interpretations of the classic garment, the collection featured tuxedos cropped to the navel, exaggerated in proportion, and elongated into luxurious overcoats. Interwoven with these timeless pieces were touches of glamour and sensuality synonymous with the house's aesthetic.

Lingerie-inspired ensembles provided a captivating counterpoint to the tuxedo's rigor, while enormous feathered coats, glimmering crystal chainmail dresses, and lavish lace and polka dot motifs added a touch of opulence to the runway. "It's a union of contrasts," the designers reflected. "Masculine and feminine, austerity and seduction… allowing every woman the freedom to express her idea of style." With their Tuxedo Collection, Dolce & Gabbana celebrated the harmonious interplay of tradition and innovation, offering women the freedom to embrace their individuality while exuding timeless sophistication and allure.

FERRAGAMO

Maximilian Davis continues to ascend to new heights with a profoundly alluring A/W 2024 collection for Ferragamo, seamlessly blending the past with the present in a masterful display of astute style. Drawing inspiration from the liberatory spirit of the 1920s, Davis embarked on a journey to celebrate freedom through the lens of fashion, a sentiment deeply intertwined with his heritage and the essence of Ferragamo. Echoing the fluidity and rebellious energy of the era, the collection exuded a sense of liberation, with silk halterneck gowns cascading into tassels at their sheer hemlines, reminiscent of the iconic flapper dresses. Layers of transparency adorned garments, imbuing them with a modern sensuality and timeless allure. Inspired by Hollywood icons like Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo, Davis reimagined elements of masculine attire, introducing brilliant wide-shouldered overcoats and tailored pieces with wide buckled waistbands. For men, the defining silhouette emerged with super-abbreviated mini shorts, paired with military-hued tailored jackets and chunky knitwear, evoking a sense of protection and strength.

The collection's outerwear featured cape-like silhouettes and elongated, face-covering collars, paying homage to the clandestine spirit of the speakeasies of the 1920s, where individuals found solace in creating their own spaces of freedom and expression. Completing the lineup were exquisite footwear offerings, including elegant T-bar pumps inspired by archival designs, thigh-high wader boots exuding confidence, and whimsical creations adorned with colourful feathers, embodying the essence of Ferragamo's storied history. With Ferragamo's A/W 2024 collection, Maximilian Davis not only honors the legacy of the brand but also propels it forward with his distinctive vision of timeless elegance and unabashed individuality.

VERSACE

Closing out Friday evening with a thunderous crescendo, Donatella Versace unveiled a co-ed collection pulsating with a rebellious, punkish spirit, impeccably tailored to the Italian house's signature hyper-glamorous style. "The woman is a good girl with a wild soul," declared the visionary designer, capturing the essence of this dichotomy through a striking juxtaposition of prim collared dresses, gold-button blazers, and elongated tweed suits, contrasted with daring lashings of eyeliner, distressed leopard print sweaters, and chainmail-covered jeans provocatively sliced open along the front.

Amidst the electric atmosphere, a parade of molten dresses sculpted the body into a narrow corseted waist, exuding the requisite Versace va-va-voom that caught the eye of actress Anne Hathaway, who graced the front row in one of these captivating creations. Nods to archival prints reverberated throughout both the men's and women's collections, infusing a sense of heritage into the avant-garde tapestry. "This collection embodies a rebel attitude with a kind heart," Donatella elaborated. "Pure lines, innovative fabrications, and considered wildness. This is us. This is Versace." With each ensemble, she reaffirmed the brand's unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries while celebrating the unapologetic spirit of individuality and self-expression.

MARNI

After traversing the globe with shows in New York, Tokyo, and Paris, Marni's creative director Francesco Risso embarked on a poignant homecoming, presenting the latest collection in the evocative setting of the railway arches on Via Ferrante Aporti. Enveloped in crinkled white paper, reminiscent of a papier-mâché igloo, the venue served as a symbolic canvas for a collection that began with a clean slate. Titled 'Bring No Clothes,' a nod to Virginia Woolf's invitation to shed the trappings of societal norms, Risso banished reference images from the studio walls, encouraging his design team to tap into instinct and play. "By casting out the idolatry of mirrors, filled to the brim with conquering dreams, we have returned to an almost animal state," he reflected in the show's accompanying letter of intent.

The collection exuded a primal allure, with sliced panels of fur draped around models' necks and animal prints interwoven with fuzzy, enveloping textures. Childlike creativity flourished in naively painted garments, their raised textures resembling oil paintings, evoking a sense of uninhibited expression. "In returning to that original state of creation, I found inspiration in Virginia Woolf's sentiment of stripping back the punitive structures of clothing," Risso explained. "Here, it's just us—a sense of community that transcends titles and roles." As Marni journeyed back to its roots, Risso invited us to rediscover the essence of creativity, unburdened by societal constraints, and embraced the freedom of self-expression. In this primitive state of creation, the collection resonated with a raw energy and a profound sense of authenticity, reminding us that sometimes, the purest form of artistry emerges from a place of simplicity and connection.

GUCCI

Sabato De Sarno's sophomore womenswear collection epitomised a seamless continuation of his debut, as the Italian designer sought to encapsulate the essence of his native country's style in a contemporary manner, imbued with an air of insouciance and romance. "My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality," he articulated in a pre-show note, setting the stage for an exploration of merging the mundane with the extraordinary. Held in the industrial setting of Fonderia Carlo Macchi, the collection unfolded against a backdrop of raw authenticity. De Sarno's vision embraced the quotidian wardrobe, elevating it with the opulent flourishes of glamour and embellishment courtesy of the Gucci atelier. Mannish overcoats cascaded with a waterfall of sequins and paillettes, while intricately layered lace cami tops and dresses evoked a sense of lingerie-inspired allure. Slouchy knit cardigans sparkled with shimmering crystal-decorated collars, juxtaposing comfort with extravagance.

Tailoring took centre stage, cinched at the waist and paired with abbreviated shorts reminiscent of 1960s silhouettes. An impressive array of leather jackets adorned with the double-G monogram showcased the house's mastery of the material, adding a touch of signature sophistication. The grand finale unveiled a duo of carved strapless gowns, exuding seductive simplicity yet adorned with enough pizzazz to captivate the celebrity-filled front row, including luminaries such as Solange Knowles, Kirsten Dunst, and De Sarno's muse, British actress Daisy Edgar-Jones. "I aim to capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected," De Sarno declared, encapsulating his unwavering commitment to redefining the boundaries of contemporary elegance and allure.

SPORTMAX

This season, the Sportmax design team embarked on a captivating journey away from the futuristic austerity of previous collections, drawing inspiration from underground icon Nico and her seminal 1985 album, Camera Obscura. Embracing the enigmatic allure of Nico's persona, the collection exuded a mood of sensuality and intrigue, evoking the mysterious depths hidden within her gaze. A poignant quote from Gerard Malanga, a poet and assistant to Andy Warhol, set the tone for the collection, encapsulating the elusive mystique surrounding Nico: "Nico's eyes seem to guard a great mystery which, hidden in aloofness, they do not want anyone to know exists. Whether or not a mystery is there, the eyes with the enigma of their absence from what surrounds them eclipse the perfection of features and form to add great magnetism."

Against the backdrop of the dimly lit upper corridors of the Triennale di Milano contemporary art museum, models prowled the curved mirrored catwalk, their vertiginous heels pounding with determination. Plunging black mini dresses adorned with spikes exuded a fierce sensuality, while sharp, wide-shouldered tailoring and cinched waists, achieved through clever layering, paid homage to the resolve of a Helmut Newton muse. Echoes of Nico's 1980s contemporaries, including Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, Annie Lennox, and Siouxsie Sioux, reverberated throughout the collection in nostalgic album cover-inspired prints, creating a collage of iconic imagery that celebrated the spirit of the era. Sportmax's exploration of Nico's enigmatic legacy resonated with a modern audience, capturing the essence of her timeless allure and infusing it with contemporary elegance and sophistication. In this evocative homage, the brand transcended fashion to evoke a sense of mystery and magnetism, inviting wearers to embrace their inner intrigue and sensuality.

TOD´S

Matteo Tamburini made a bold statement with his debut Tod's collection, choosing the iconic Messina Tram Depot in northern Milan as the venue—a symbolic gesture of the brand's forward momentum. Against the backdrop of the bustling streets, where yellow Milanese trams proudly sported the Tod's logo, Tamburini unveiled a collection inspired by contemporary Italian elegance and infused with a deep appreciation for local craftsmanship. For both men and women, Tamburini curated a luxurious everyday wardrobe that exuded effortless style. From layers of ribbed knitwear and roomy trench coats to dramatic leather gowns adorned with tassels, the collection showcased a harmonious blend of sophistication and street-inspired energy. Drawing on his experience at Bottega Veneta, Tamburini's expertise shone through in the narrow, streamlined looks that opened the show—featuring sharply cut overcoats, double-layered striped shirts, and gently flared tailored trousers with wide folded hems, presenting a convincingly contemporary silhouette.

Footwear remained the cornerstone of the brand, with Tamburini introducing a modern twist to the classic Gommino loafer for men, featuring a minimal metal bar in place of the traditional tie fastening. For women, the iconic style was adorned with playful fronds of leather tassels, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection. In his debut for Tod's, Matteo Tamburini redefined Italian elegance for the modern age, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation to create a collection that captures the essence of timeless sophistication and urban allure.

PRADA

Prada's A/W 2024 show commenced with an innate attraction to history, unfolding within the same OMA/AMO-designed space as the house's previous menswear presentation. While the setting, adorned with vast Perspex tiles simulating a forest floor, lacked its prior corporate-office-meets-nature juxtaposition, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons embarked on a profound journey into the fragments of historical dress. Rejecting misty-eyed nostalgia, Prada and Simons delved into the emotional resonance of clothing, emphasizing its capacity to preserve memories and evoke romance. "History, for me, is always connected to the lives of people," remarked Miuccia Prada. "There is a sense of romance to this collection—of values of love and caring embedded in the clothes."

The collection unfolded as a tapestry of feminine adornments, from bows to ruffles, juxtaposed with suggestions of military attire, evoking a haunting duality. Simons noted, "This is not about a narrative history... it's an attraction to different moments in time which now feel new." Dresses adorned with bows, petticoat-style slips, and sculpted tailoring recalled various eras, reshaped to create a richly imagined narrative. However, amidst the opulence, there lay a sense of warning—a reflection on history's lessons and the complexities of the present moment. "Reflecting on history teaches us our mistakes, our strengths," emphasised Miuccia Prada. "This is a collection shaped by history... about remembering our past to move forwards." "In this complicated moment, it is vital to know your history," added Simons. "You can only realise your future if you know your past." Through their meticulous exploration of historical fragments, Prada and Simons crafted a poignant narrative, inviting wearers to engage with the complexities of the past as they navigate an uncertain future.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani's A/W 2024 show concluded with a captivating flurry of snow, casting a surreal backdrop against which Mr. Armani's models gracefully marched, unfazed by the sudden change in weather. The collection, aptly titled "Night Glow," transported viewers into the ethereal realm of the luminous night sky, showcasing a kaleidoscope of eveningwear looks that shimmered with celestial allure. Against a palette spanning from midnight black to mauve, violet, jade green, and tones of grey, the models exuded elegance and sophistication in sequinned tuxedos, shimmering crescent-moon adorned suits, crystal bra tops, and sculpted evening gowns. Each ensemble captured the essence of the night sky, evoking its changing tonal hues and celestial beauty.

Embracing the spirit of freedom that defines Emporio Armani, the collection featured silhouettes designed to empower and inspire. From billowing trousers with sweatpant-style gathered hems to diaphanous organza skirts and boldly coloured flourishes of chubby faux fur, each piece exuded a sense of effortless sophistication and modernity. Amidst the blizzard of style, Emporio Armani's collection emerged as a radiant beacon of elegance and allure, inviting wearers to embrace the enchanting splendor of the night sky and bask in the luminous glow of timeless style.

MAX MARA

For over three decades, Ian Griffiths has curated a distinguished lineage of influential women from history to serve as muses for his Max Mara collections. This season, against the backdrop of a drizzly Milanese morning, Griffiths unveiled his A/W 2024 offering in a luminous former industrial space on Via Giovanni Battista Piranesi, drawing inspiration from the rebellious French author Colette. Renowned for her sensual prose that illuminated the innermost desires of women at the turn of the 20th century, Colette's spirit infused the collection with a seductive allure. Enveloping overcoats crafted from sumptuously soft textures, ribbed knit bands delicately cinching the waist, and asymmetric skirts draped and folded onto the body evoked moments of pleasure and intimacy.

Griffiths' trademark subtle juxtapositions permeated the collection, seamlessly blending weight and lightness, glamour and ease, and the masculine and feminine. A riff on a military officer's coat or a fisherman's sweater paid homage to Colette's defiance of gender norms, reflecting her bold sartorial choices. Echoing Colette's assertion of self-defined beauty, the collection epitomised liberation and self-expression. As articulated by the author herself, "Beautiful? For whom? Why, for myself, of course." With each meticulously crafted piece, Max Mara celebrated the enduring legacy of Colette and her unwavering commitment to individuality and autonomy.

FENDI

The Fendi showspace on Via Solari was transformed into a hypnotic labyrinth of rooms, each partitioned by enormous drapes of coloured silk, setting the stage for a captivating journey through time and style. Creative director of couture and womenswear, Kim Jones, drew inspiration from archival looks of the mid-1980s, infusing the collection with an impressive array of fabric contortions and intricate details. From cinching day-glo strips layered over simple black roll-necks to complex knits crisscrossing over the neck, the collection showcased Fendi's mastery of fabric manipulation. The drapes, reminiscent of Roman statuary, paid homage to the brand's home city, appearing as prints and intricate embroidery on garments. Jones' fascination with Rome's unique elegance, influenced by house scion Delfina Delettrez Fendi, added depth to the collection's narrative.

Delving further into the archive, Jones found inspiration in the vibrant and subversive dress codes of his native London in the 1980s, particularly the New Romantics and figures like Leigh Bowery. Flourishes of polka dots, a signature of Bowery, and bursts of piercing colour contrasted with rigorous, sculpted black tailoring, embodying the liberated spirit of the era. "The sketches reminded me of London during that period: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style," explained Jones. "It was a point when British subcultures and styles became global and absorbed global influences. Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style." Fendi's A/W 2024 collection celebrated the intersection of elegance and subversion, weaving together elements of history, culture, and personal narrative to create a rich tapestry of style and self-expression.

NO.21

Alessandro Dell'Acqua's enigmatic portrayal of womanhood at No. 21 continues to intrigue, unveiling a captivating interpretation of bourgeois dress codes in his latest collection. Drawing inspiration from the notion of 'bon ton'—a symbol of elegance and refinement rooted in British high society of the 19th century, and later revived during the haute couture resurgence of the 1980s—Dell'Acqua crafted a collection that exuded nostalgic charm with a contemporary twist. The echoes of the 1980s haute couture era resonated throughout the collection, manifested in plunging black gowns adorned with bows, cocooning double-breasted overcoats, and impeccably tailored tweed suiting. Dell'Acqua's fascination with the decade's avant-garde couture collections breathed new life into his designs, infusing them with a sense of decadence and allure. "It's as if I had cast my gaze deeply into a fashion story and made it come alive again," remarked Alessandro of the collection's nostalgic ambiance.

However, it was Dell'Acqua's penchant for juxtaposition that truly captivated, as functional harness-style fastenings adorned ladylike dresses embellished with crystals, men's brogues were paired with satin strapless gowns, and slouchy Fair Isle jumpers were layered over sheer skirts and pointed pumps. Each ensemble exuded a disruptive sensuality, encapsulating the designers exploration of bourgeois eroticism with conscious sophistication. In his hands, No. 21's A/W 2024 collection emerges as a testament to his mastery of juxtaposition and his ability to evoke a sense of provocative elegance. Through his innovative reinterpretation of bourgeois codes, Dell'Acqua invites wearers to embrace a new paradigm of sensuality and style.

London Fashion Week A/W´24

London Fashion Week A/W 2024 marked a significant milestone as it celebrated its 40th anniversary since its inception in the early 1980s by British PR maven Lynne Franks, who is rumored to have inspired the character of Edina Monsoon in Absolutely Fabulous. Throughout its four-decade history, the event has maintained a distinctive blend of emerging talent, epitomised by fashion incubator Fashion East, and established icons such as Vivienne Westwood and Burberry. Notably, Queen Elizabeth II made a memorable appearance at a Richard Quinn show in 2018, adding to the event's prestige.

´This latest edition continued to uphold the week's rich legacy, commencing with the highly anticipated return of historic British house Dunhill after a four-year hiatus, under the guidance of new creative director Simon Holloway. JW Anderson, led by its eponymous designer Jonathan Anderson, also captivated audiences, reminiscing on his early rise to prominence at Fashion East in the 2010s. Burberry, helmed by Daniel Lee, presented its third runway show for the esteemed British label at Victoria Park on Monday evening, drawing considerable attention.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

The schedule encompassed a diverse array of designers, including stalwarts like Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, and Erdem, alongside a vibrant showcase of next-generation talent, featuring KNWLS, Aaron Esh, and Conner Ives, among others. The Central Saint Martins MA fashion show further underscored London Fashion Week's commitment to fostering emerging creativity and pushing the boundaries of fashion innovation.

BURBERRY

Daniel Lee's third runway collection for Burberry marked a return to the great outdoors, as showcased in a vast tent set up in east London's Victoria Park. Drawing inspiration from Burberry's heritage of outdoor wear, Lee's collection exuded warmth and protection, encapsulating the brand's synonymous relationship with outerwear.

The thematic link of the great outdoors has been evident throughout Lee's opening triptych, initially inspired by tents and outdoor-wear from the late 19th and early 20th centuries found in Burberry's archive. "Burberry's heritage of the outdoors continues to inspire me," remarked the Yorkshire-born designer. The runway presentation was accompanied by a soundtrack featuring a collage of Amy Winehouse clips and music, inspired by her tenacious desire to express herself authentically.

The collection showcased Burberry's iconic outerwear, including a funnel-neck moleskin version of the trench coat, abbreviated parkas, puffers, and hefty shearlings. Textural richness prevailed, with British and Irish wool and fabric used across pleated skirts, zip-front trousers, and enveloping knitwear, all designed with functionality in mind for outdoor wear. The diverse lineup of models, featuring industry icons such as Agyness Deyn, Lily Donaldson, Lily Cole, Naomi Campbell, and Edie Campbell, evoked a sense of nostalgia for Burberry's cultural prominence in the 2010s.

Reflecting on the challenges of designing for a brand with such broad appeal, Lee emphasised the importance of having a distinct point of view. With this collection, he made a bold statement, offering seductive propositions for real-world winter dressing while pushing the boundaries of Burberry's traditional aesthetic. "You can't just make a simple trench coat forever," noted Lee, underscoring his commitment to innovation and evolution within the iconic British brand.

AARON ESH

Aaron Esh, the burgeoning London-based designer, unveiled a captivating winter collection on Sunday evening, bringing the curtain down on London Fashion Week in an intimate show at east London's Sarabande. Esh's recent inclusion in the foundation, established by Lee McQueen to support emerging artists and designers, underscores his rising prominence in the fashion scene.

Drawing inspiration from the dress codes of his inner circle, Esh's collection builds upon his runway debut in September 2023, where he showcased his designs at Tate Modern against the backdrop of London's iconic skyline. Rooted in the vibrant energy of his native city and its dynamic streets, Esh's designs capture a disheveled sensuality, blending slinky bias-cut dresses, smeared eyeliner, sunglasses, caps, and hoodies with intriguing tailoring.

The collection exudes an effortless allure, with wide-lapelled tuxedos featuring poker-straight hems that evolve into expansive overcoats, and pinched hooded tailored jackets cinched closed by the models' hands. Esh aims to imbue his clothing with a sense of ease that belies the meticulous craft and construction behind each piece, an ambition realised as the models exude an air of nonchalant sophistication akin to returning home from a night out or the morning after.

Notably, the collection introduces skinny jeans, signaling a revival of the silhouette popularised by Hedi Slimane during his tenure at Dior Homme in the 2000s. Slimane's distinctive fusion of subculture influences appears to inspire Esh's evolving body of work, adding depth and resonance to his growing oeuvre.

JW ANDERSON

Jonathan Anderson's A/W 2024 collection took a nostalgic journey into the eccentricities of everyday life, drawing inspiration from nosy neighbours, humble M&S knickers, and forgotten horse riding trophies. Presented at Marylebone’s Seymour Leisure Centre, a departure from The Roundhouse, Anderson's vision unfolded with a twist, capturing a mood of "grotesque everydayness" through distorted proportions and exaggerated details.

Knit dresses adorned with oversized stitches, cascades of blown-up haberdashery embellishments, and layers of ribbed underwear and vests mingled with house slippers and brassy grey curly wigs, creating a strangely captivating ensemble. Anderson's adeptness at traversing the realms of seduction and the grotesque was on full display, showcasing his unique ability to seamlessly blend the alluring with the unconventional.

In a nod to interior aesthetics, twisted dresses reminiscent of curtains and curtain ties draped elegantly around the models' bodies, with a pearl iteration offering a modern twist on bridal attire. Outerwear pieces paid homage to British heritage styles, reimagined in oversized silhouettes with a slightly disheveled charm. Meanwhile, timeless staples like striped sweaters and sweatpant shorts added a sense of familiarity amidst the collection's avant-garde exploration.

Anderson revealed backstage that the collection was a contemplation of Britain's past, refracted through a lens of nostalgia and subversion. He remarked on the current trend of young people rediscovering and glorifying elements from the past, reconfiguring them in a futuristic context. This approach to nostalgia, he noted, serves as a bridge between generations, transforming it from a daunting prospect into a catalyst for innovative reinterpretation and forward-thinking design.

SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha's A/W 2024 collection marked the conclusion of a three-part series, beginning with "Dress Rehearsal" and culminating in "The Wake." Presented in the medieval church St Bartholomew-the-Great in Smithfield, the collection delved into the mourning attire of Queen Victoria following the death of Prince Albert, serving as a poignant exploration of darkness intertwined with beauty.

Faux fur adorned delicate, nearly-transparent tailoring, evoking a sense of somber elegance. Crystal-embellished corsets, reminiscent of Rocha's collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, added a touch of shimmering opulence. Unexpected accessories, such as soft-toy lambs carried by the models, paid homage to mythical creatures serving as guardians in churches.

Mourning blacks were reimagined in tie-hem anoraks, paired with faux-fur stoles adorned with crystals, showcasing Rocha's ability to infuse traditional elements with contemporary relevance. Rocha explained backstage that the collection drew inspiration from preserved garments and archival references, aiming to seamlessly blend historical influences with modern sensibilities.

Overall, "The Wake" served as a poignant conclusion to Rocha's triptych, weaving together themes of mourning, tradition, and renewal in a collection that resonated with both depth and beauty.

MOLLY GODDARD

Molly Goddard's latest collection was staged against the vibrant backdrop of a mural by London Group artist Ivon Hitchens, setting the tone for a collection characterised by freewheeling creativity. Held at Cecil Sharp House, the home of the English Folk Dance and Song Society in north London, the show drew inspiration from the dynamic composition of Hitchens' mural, which depicts abstract figures dancing in a mythical woodland.

Goddard's design process began with an experimental fitting, where vintage pieces, samples from her archive, and toiles were combined to spark the collection's direction. Inspired by shapes and forms, the designer explored combinations of garments, pulling in, pushing out, and smushing fabrics to create dynamic silhouettes. Influenced by the haute couture techniques of Balenciaga and Dior, Goddard infused everyday wear with elasticated and tie fastenings for a relaxed yet sophisticated feel.

Tulle played a prominent role in the collection, with tightly ruffled shapes resembling "blobs" adorning skirts, shirts, and dresses, adding drama and texture to the looks. These ethereal tulle pieces were juxtaposed with slouchy sweaters, cowboy jackets, and polka-dot tops, creating a refreshing blend of whimsy and sophistication that characterised Goddard's signature style.

ROKSANDA

Zendaya's recent appearance in a plum-hued Roksanda suit at the London premiere of "Dune: Part Two" turned out to be a preview of the A/W 2024 collection presented at the Tate Britain. Designer Roksanda Ilinčić drew inspiration from the iconic architect Le Corbusier, particularly his holiday cabin, Cabanon de Le Corbusier, located in Cap Martin, France. The collection featured tapestries referencing the cabin's murals, with fabrics like melton wool, boucle, fil coupé jacquard, and faux fur evoking the comfort of home interiors.

Roksanda's signature use of colour was prominent in the collection, with shades like Chartreuse-Verse, Canvas, Dark Flamant, and Grey-Melange dominating the palette. Sporty elements, reminiscent of windbreakers and wellington boots, were incorporated, with footwear produced in collaboration with Fit Flop. The show concluded with oversized taffeta dresses resembling tents, evoking imagery of a windswept day by the coast followed by the warmth of a lavishly decorated home.

16 ARLINGTON

Marco Capaldi's A/W 2024 collection for 16Arligton was inspired by Charlie Fox's 2019 exhibition "My Head is a Haunted House," which explored childhood obsessions with werewolves, bats, and monsters. Capaldi translated this theme into a more elegant context, infusing his sharp, streamlined vision for the brand with touches of strangeness. Swathes of shaggy faux fur and clattering tinsel looks added a whimsical yet sophisticated element to the collection.

The garments evoked a sense of the monstrous, with diaphanous white dresses reminiscent of Frankenstein's bride and shirts and sweaters tied around the neck in a nod to unconventional styling. Capaldi emphasised that the collection was not about Halloween but rather about human nature, borrowing the title "I’m Not Sorry, It’s Human Nature" from Madonna. He aimed to celebrate those who reject societal norms, finding strength, power, and beauty in non-conformity. These individuals were the inspiration behind Capaldi's designs for 16Arlington.

DUNHILL

Dunhill's first runway show since 2020, under the creative direction of Simon Holloway, took place at the Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery, a venue steeped in history and classicism. This choice signaled a return to Dunhill's British heritage, celebrating its 130th year. The presentation harkened back to traditional salon-style fashion presentations of the early 20th century, with low-lit individual tables, gin martinis, and cucumber and caviar sandwiches.

Holloway described the A/W 2024 collection as a celebration of Dunhill's origins and evolution into a unique British luxury house. Drawing inspiration from the brand's rich tailoring heritage and tradition of dressing figures from stage and screen, the collection featured a range of garments reflecting the "finer things in life." From nods to motor racing with suede field jackets and leather driving gloves to outdoor pursuits with gabardine chinos, heritage check blazers, and corduroy, the collection encapsulated a sense of refined elegance.

Evening wear was also prominent, including an elegant ivory tuxedo with matching bowtie and overcoat, paired unexpectedly with sneakers. Holloway emphasised that these elements represent Dunhill's core strengths and expressed hope that the collection would capture a refined yet international spirit, setting the tone for his tenure ahead.

FASHION EAST

This season's Fashion East designers, Olly Shinder and Johanna Parv, presented their own interpretations of the nine-to-five wardrobe, each with their distinctive twists. Shinder, known for his exploration of nightlife uniforms, shifted his focus to the corporate world, offering a queer and refined take on the corporate uniform. Pieces like "middle managerial" shirting with sliced backs and clean-lined functional sets with PVC details conveyed a sense of displacement and subversion. Alongside these, Shinder introduced dance floor-ready pieces such as latex bodysuits and abbreviated mini shorts, catering to a diverse audience.

On the other hand, Parv explored the functionality of sportswear and technical fabrics, aiming to incorporate them into various aspects of a woman's wardrobe. Her polished collection for this season drew inspiration from the "topography of the city" and urban life's demands, resulting in darker and more sensual pieces. Skirt suits with front and shoulder cut-outs and featherweight zip-up mini dresses reflected this aesthetic. Parv's collection was complemented by clever accessories like leather bumbags and handbags with adjustable nylon straps, reminiscent of backpacks. As Parv moves forward, her innovative approach to blending sportswear elements into everyday wear will be intriguing to watch.

New York Fashion Week A/W´24

Experience the grandeur of New York Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2024, marking the illustrious inauguration of fashion month, with forthcoming rendezvous in London, Milan, and Paris. Kicking off with an electrifying debut, Peter Do's sophomore collection for Helmut Lang seduced the audience, seamlessly weaving the narrative of armor and adornment, solidifying his status as one of the city's most captivating visionaries.

´In a momentous New York Fashion Week premiere, Ludovic de Saint Sernin paid homage to the legendary photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, infusing Parisian elegance into the bustling streets of New York. The runway was ablaze with anticipation as iconic labels such as Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, and Tory Burch unveiled their latest triumphs, leaving an indelible mark on the season. Here, we present the standout showcases that defined the pinnacle of style and innovation.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

THOM BROWNE

In a dazzling spectacle on Valentine's Day, Thom Browne's latest show transcended the romantic holiday, delving into darker realms with inspiration drawn from Edgar Allan Poe's haunting poem, "The Raven," penned in 1845. The narrative unfolds around a man haunted by a talking raven after the demise of his beloved, spiraling into a chilling descent into madness. Within this narrative framework, Browne's collection, narrated by the captivating Carrie Coon of The Gilded Age fame, took shape, interweaving elements of Chesterfield puffers and silk moiré into a hauntingly reimagined tale.

Browne's theatrical genius flourished amidst a cast of towering figures exuding an eerie charm, their tousled hair fashioned into sculptural plaits or delicately veiled in mourning attire. The monochromatic palette of blacks and whites evoked a theatricality akin to a series of tweed blazers, whether embellished with checks or deconstructed into patchwork marvels. A motif of black ravens soared across white coats, culminating in a dramatic finale featuring an opulent gold brocade cape, symbolically shed like a "beguiling golden bug" at the show's conclusion.

Dominating the scene was a towering arboreal figure swathed in a colossal 30-foot-high rendition of Browne's iconic Chesterfield puffer—a breathtaking flourish from the designer renowned for his theatrical flair. Thom Browne once again proved his mastery in the art of storytelling through fashion, captivating audiences with his unparalleled vision and showmanship.

GABRIELA HEARST

Gabriela Hearst's creative journey this season was ignited by the ethereal paintings of artist Leonora Carrington. However, rather than appropriating Carrington's art as mere inspiration, Hearst chose to illuminate a cadre of remarkable women who had introduced her to Carrington's world—ranging from esteemed art historian and author Katy Hessel to journalist Jackie Wullschläger and writer Joanna Moorhead. "Teaching us empathy and about how others live; and to dream up a better world for all," remarked Hessel of the surrealist artist's profound influence.

There's an undeniable allure to Hearst's designs, particularly amidst the winter season, with their opulent shearlings and sweeping gowns elegantly paired with riding boots. Yet, upon closer inspection, one discovers Hearst's signature eco-conscious ethos at play. What may appear to be shearling is, in fact, meticulously crafted from shredded post-consumer recycled cashmere sourced from Italian cashmere jumpers—an embodiment of Hearst's unwavering commitment to sustainability. Each garment in the collection is meticulously detailed in a document, elucidating the origin and composition of every fabric, a testament to Hearst's transparency and dedication to ethical practices.

This season's offerings boast a sumptuous array of 100 percent natural fibers, including innovative creations such as fine cashmere corduroy—a groundbreaking debut in fabric production. Liquid silk velvet, woven on historical French velvet looms operated by a lone mill in Lyon, adds a luxurious texture to the collection. Additionally, a printed wool gauze, inspired by flora discovered during Hearst's travels, lends a whimsical yet sophisticated touch to her designs. Through her meticulous craftsmanship and conscientious sourcing, Gabriela Hearst continues to redefine luxury fashion with a harmonious blend of elegance and sustainability.

MICHAEL KORS

In a celebration of enduring style, Michael Kors christened his A/W 2024 collection 'Timeless,' a testament to his unwavering commitment to refining the essence of a woman's wardrobe beyond fleeting trends. Set against the backdrop of the former Barneys New York space in Chelsea—a historic bastion of American fashion—Kors' showcase paid homage to the foundational elements of his eponymous label, echoing a trend observed among several New York designers this season. "Fashion that stands the test of time has always been one of my hallmarks," elucidated the designer.

The collection exuded an aura of refined elegance, encompassing a spectrum of essential garments essential to a woman's closet: impeccably tailored double-breasted suits with nipped waists, leather jackets adorned with plush shearling collars, sleek pointed pumps, and even a nod to casual chic with a luxe hoodie. Infused with touches of New York glamour, sequin-embellished cardigans and delicate lace slip dresses added a dose of allure, while voluminous fluffy overcoats in hues reminiscent of "dusty makeup shades" evoked the insouciant glamour of the 1930s.

"When we contemplate what is truly timeless and enduring, it's quality, simplicity, and sophistication," remarked Kors. "It's about clothing that instills confidence and power, that transcends fleeting trends." With this collection, Kors reaffirms his mastery in crafting garments that resonate with the modern woman, embodying a sense of timeless allure and empowerment.

TORY BURCH

Tory Burch concluded Monday evening's affair with a captivating takeover of the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue, transforming its ornate walkways into a shimmering silver runway. Embracing a newfound sense of creative exploration, Burch shared her vision of reinventing silhouettes and proportions, marking a bold departure from the confines of conventional branding that she has challenged over the past five years.

The collection unveiled a captivating fusion of innovation and elegance, characterised by bonded, heat-sealed garments that exuded an architectural allure yet retained a surprising lightness and fluidity. Textural intricacy abounded, with fronds of tassels and twisting ruffles adorning delicate diaphanous mini dresses, juxtaposed against sleek hair-on-hide dipped outerwear. A sensual undertone permeated the collection, epitomised by the semi-sheer skirt adorned with a shimmering degradé motif, elegantly paired with a faux croc bodysuit and the brand's striking new 'Pierced' pump—a style adorned with sweeping abstract metal embellishments set to dominate the fashion scene in the upcoming season.

"We aimed to elevate the everyday to the sublime," remarked Burch, encapsulating the essence of the collection's ethos. With its intriguing blend of innovation, texture, and allure, Tory Burch's latest showcase epitomises a daring exploration of creativity and style, transcending boundaries to redefine contemporary elegance.

COACH

Presented within the stately confines of the James B. Duke House on New York's Upper East Side—a locale steeped in the aristocratic heritage of the city—Stuart Vevers unveiled a collection that deftly juxtaposed American classicism with the raw, unfiltered eclecticism of urban streets. Drawing inspiration from iconic figures such as John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette, Vevers interwove elements of refined elegance with the gritty spontaneity of city life.

Ruffled debutante dresses in lustrous taffeta and crisply tailored tuxedo blazers were artfully disheveled, evoking the aura of a night spent reveling in the city's vibrant energy. Paired with rugged, worn-in leather boots, the models traversed the grand salons of the building with an air of nonchalant defiance. Adorned with heaps of bags and accessories, including tourist charms depicting the Statue of Liberty and the iconic Big Apple, as well as Yankee caps, emblematic of New York's enduring spirit.

Elsewhere, Vevers curated a highly coveted wardrobe tailored to the demands of urban living, featuring elongated trench coats, sumptuous shearling and tasseled leather jackets, and whimsical sweaters adorned with bows and playful duck motifs. This collection marks a triumphant return to the brand's roots in New York, where it was established in 1941, embracing the city's dynamic essence without succumbing to the allure of fashion escapism. Vevers' musings on New York love stories, inspired by the works of Nora Ephron, resonate throughout the collection, encapsulating the city's unique blend of romance and realism. With this compelling showcase, Vevers reaffirms the brand's steadfast commitment to authenticity and celebrates the indomitable spirit of New York City.

ZANKOV

"Seduction and gusto!" exclaimed Henry Zankov as he unveiled his A/W 2024 collection at his Monday morning presentation in the vibrant Chelsea space. Surrounded by models and admirers, Zankov elaborated on the mood of his collection, emphasising the use of strong, saturated colours infused with vibrant energy, particularly for evening wear. "That's how the seduction happens," he quipped, revealing the essence of his creative vision.

Following his remarkable achievement as the runner-up at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in October 2023, Zankov elevated his presentation to new heights. The streets outside the gallery, adorned with black suburbans, hinted at the anticipation surrounding the event, while inside, a team of PR professionals orchestrated the flow of guests into the light-filled atrium. Building upon his brand's signature perforated knits and intarsias, Zankov introduced a captivating array of garments that showcased a mastery of colour mixing, texture, and innovative design.

The collection featured standout pieces such as tufted hand-worked 'pom pom' knits, a feathery shredded alpaca tomato-orange dress and scarf, and intricately crafted mouline hand-knit crew-necks, inviting tactile exploration. Notably, a red deconstructed jumper captured attention with its effortless yet artful repurposing, with the model's head emerging from an armhole while the sleeves were elegantly knotted at the hip. Scarves emerged as a focal point, ingeniously integrated into garments like a moss green cashmere coat with a built-in neckline scarf, and a chartreuse fine gauge knit with a similarly inventive design.

Henry Zankov's A/W 2024 collection embodies a bold celebration of craftsmanship, colour, and innovation, marking a significant evolution in his design aesthetic while maintaining the allure of seduction and daring creativity.

ULLA JOHNSON

As guests arrived for Ulla Johnson's Sunday morning show, they were greeted by a sensory oasis: the gentle touch of sandy deep pile carpeting and the enveloping embrace of soaring terracotta curtains, creating a serene atmosphere that absorbed the hum of conversation. Within this tranquil space, a striking sculpture by Mississippi-born artist Andrew Ondrejcak, in collaboration with Brooklyn-based artist Abby Cheney, commanded attention, resembling a delicate filigree ring magnified to towering proportions.

In the show notes, Raven Leilani, acclaimed author of "Luster," reflected on the essence of adornment, noting that "In adornment, there is also fantasy... making something beautiful requires something of you." This sentiment resonated throughout Johnson's collection, where the meticulous craftsmanship of artisans from around the world, with whom she has cultivated years-long partnerships, took centre stage. Sequin and bead embroideries breathed life into a black dress and pencil skirt, while crochet work added an exquisite touch of artisanal flair.

Johnson's signature elements of fluidity, romance, and movement permeated the collection, amplified by the introduction of vibrant violet spongy wool and moss green quilted coats adorned with golden brocade print. Tailoring, exemplified by a textured pinstripe pantsuit, and denim, showcased through a dramatically waisted jean jacket, seamlessly intertwined with Johnson's feminine aesthetic. A surprise addition to the lineup came in the form of leather pants, exuding a desirability rarely seen before.

Ulla Johnson's A/W 2024 collection is a testament to her unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, creativity, and feminine allure, offering a harmonious fusion of artisanal detailing and contemporary elegance that captivates the senses and stirs the soul.

LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERIN

In the lead-up to his inaugural show at New York Fashion Week, Ludovic de Saint Sernin tantalised fashion aficionados with hints of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Drawing inspiration from the sensually charged flower photographs of the iconic American photographer, de Saint Sernin was intrigued by Mapplethorpe's provocative assertion that "beauty and the devil are the same thing." This juxtaposition served as the driving force behind the collection, as delicate stamens and blooms from Mapplethorpe's oeuvre graced sheer handkerchief tops and skirts, revealing glimpses of the body beneath, alongside slinky chainmail dresses that hugged the contours of the form.

Injecting a hint of provocative allure inspired by Mapplethorpe's portraiture and his patronage of queer BDSM establishments like The Mineshaft, the collection featured lace-up leather underwear and trousers, the latter provocatively sliced down the back to expose the models' derrieres—an homage to Alexander McQueen's iconic bumster trouser. Eyelet-studded pieces, a signature of de Saint Sernin's design aesthetic, adorned harness-style tops, underwear, and dresses that wrapped and twisted around the body, evoking the sensation of stacked leather belts.

As the models made their final strut down the runway, all eyes turned to Ludovic de Saint Sernin himself, who took a spin amidst the twinkling lights of the cityscape beyond. With an air of confidence and belonging, he left fashion enthusiasts wondering whether he would become a permanent fixture on the New York fashion scene. Only time will tell.

AREA

Area's latest collection presented a surreal and whimsical journey, with designer Piotrek Panszczyk adorning gowns with hundreds of 'googly eyes'—those iconic spinning eyeballs reminiscent of greeting cards and craft projects. Throughout the collection, these playful eyes appeared in various sizes and forms, embellishing skirts and dresses in leather and shiny silver studs, and even transforming a Dalmatian-style print that adorned monastic hooded gowns and oversized shirting.

Drawing inspiration from both the surrealist movement of the 1920s and 1930s and the vibrant energy of Pop Art, Panszczyk infused the collection with colourful and cartoonish elements. This was evident in the vibrant floral motifs, embellished with Area's signature crystal adornments, which added a touch of whimsy to the garments. Crystals, synonymous with the brand, were magnified in size, creating oversized necklaces and tasselled skirts that resonated with a sense of opulence and luxury.

While some of the more extravagant pieces may be reserved for red carpets and music videos, the collection also featured crystal-studded jeans and sleek Area-branded tank tops, offering a wider appeal to fashion enthusiasts. With the exciting announcement of a partnership with Amazon's luxury fashion division to sell its collections, Area is poised to reach an even broader audience, blending avant-garde design with accessibility and innovation.

KHAITE

On a postcard, Catherine Holstein's succinct personal statement greeted guests as they settled in for Sunday evening's show at Chelsea Piers, delving into themes of generational legacy and the ebb and flow of memory that have preoccupied the designer. Despite the intimate welcome, the show's set contrasted sharply—a cavernous black interior stretching into darkness with an oil-slick floor roped off for effect.

With expectations high for exceptional gloss, Holstein delivered on all fronts, thanks to a powerhouse team responsible for lighting, set design (led by her husband, architect Griffen Franzen), music, styling, and overall show mastery. As for the clothes, sharpness prevailed with supple leather jackets boasting right-angle shoulders, cropped boxy military peacoats, and impeccably tailored tuxedo jackets. Even fox-fur chubby coats maintained perpendicular proportions and defined lapels.

However, Holstein also explored lightness, fluidity, and volume, evident in duchess satin paper bag waists, a luxurious leather cocoon coat, and gravity-defying silk gazar tops and skirts that seemed to softly ripple away from the body. Evening looks exuded a disheveled insouciance, embodied in crinkled silk slips and gowns with sleeves crafted from swathes of featherweight silk chiffon. With this collection, Holstein once again showcases her mastery of juxtaposing sharpness with levity, creating garments that resonate with both strength and elegance.

ECKHAUS LATTA

In lieu of traditional collection notes, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta provided a more abstract evocation of the season's mood, describing it as "remembering America as though you're standing on an orange milk crate hearing it crack under the weight of you thinking: 'what will happen next?'" Set against the breathtaking backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the New York City skyline, accompanied by a live soundtrack featuring renditions of iconic songs by Lou Reed, Lana Del Rey, and Frank Sinatra's "New York, New York" by Los Angeles-based musician Loren Kramar, the collection pondered the essence of American dressing and the role of American designers in today's landscape.

Amid discussions during fashion week about the challenges faced by young designers showing on the New York schedule, the duo embraced a shift towards minimalism, albeit within the bounds of their signature undone aesthetic. They honed in on the Eckhaus Latta codes with newfound clarity, presenting a collection that felt both fresh and familiar. Standout pieces included surprisingly sharp shearling overcoats juxtaposed with featherweight sheer jersey tops, as well as shaggy ribbed knits with undeniable real-world appeal.

A mood of disheveled glamour permeated the collection, evoking the melancholy resonance of its doomed America soundtrack. Spaghetti-strapped silk slip dresses were artfully sliced into streamers at the hem, while iridescent fabrics were gently ruched and layered over mini dresses for the closing looks, exuding an air of ethereal allure. Through this introspective exploration of American identity and design, Eckhaus and Latta continue to redefine contemporary fashion with their distinct vision and unwavering creativity.

PROENZA SCHOULER

This season, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a stripped-back outing for Proenza Schouler, a deliberate shift in mood decided the evening before the show. The designers opted to shelve their more embellished and embroidered garments in favor of a more refined aesthetic, reflecting their ongoing commitment to eschew ephemeral trends in favor of a rigorous exploration of the Proenza Schouler woman's identity—a journey of evolution rather than revolution.

The collection showcased sharply cut tailoring and enveloping overcoats reminiscent of 1990s minimalism, alongside diaphanous dresses that sensually draped around the body, echoing silhouettes from previous seasons. Blanket-like knits, artfully sliced into frayed cut-outs, provided a striking conclusion to the show, evoking a sense of comfort and soulfulness.

Speaking backstage, Hernandez described the collection as being about "beauty and enveloping layers, comfort and soulfulness," emphasising the importance of softness, luxury, and sensuality in the garments. With this collection, McCollough and Hernandez reaffirmed their status as one of New York Fashion Week's most consistent talents, drawing the attention of traveling editors and cementing their position as a leading force in the industry.

"We want to make clothes that don't feel throwaway, that you're going to own for a long time," McCollough concluded, reflecting their belief in creating enduring pieces that resonate with the modern consumer's desire for longevity and quality in their wardrobe choices.

TOMMY HILFIGER

Tommy Hilfiger's choice of Grand Central Station's Oyster Bar for his aptly named 'New York Moment' show was undoubtedly poignant and fitting. The station's famed cream marble atrium provided a spectacular backdrop, where onlookers eagerly awaited the arrival of their favorite TikTok celebrities and notable personalities like Sofia Richie Grainge, Damson Idris, Sonam Kapoor, Junho Lee, and Jon Batiste, whose finale performance electrified the entire room.

Inside, 'The Tommy,' a secret saloon bar serving martinis and champagne, hosted an unexpectedly intimate gathering, where editors congregated around cocktail tables while Questlove curated a soundtrack inspired by New York's diverse boroughs. Reflecting Hilfiger's longstanding connection to youth culture and music, the event exuded a slouchy, youthful energy synonymous with the brand's identity.

The collection itself celebrated the essence of 'classic American cool,' revisiting essentials of the American wardrobe with a fresh and relevant perspective. From black and white rugby shirts with generously proportioned sleeves to roomy chinos and effortless layering of shirting under long-line cardigans and trench coats, the garments exuded an air of effortlessness and relatability. A pleated skirt paired with block-heeled boots epitomised a fashion-forward silhouette with real-world appeal, while standout pieces like the shearling motorcycle jacket and oversised tweedy puffa undoubtedly sparked interest and desire among attendees.

Moreover, the show marked a departure from the see-now, buy-now approach, aligning with the traditional fashion week schedule to accommodate the elevated clothing production standards. With an emphasis on Italian-sourced fabrics and intricate production processes, this adjustment reflects Hilfiger's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that each piece meets the brand's exacting standards before reaching the market.

WILLY CHAVARRIA

Willy Chavarria's shows possess an inexplicable magic, establishing him as one of the most captivating talents at New York Fashion Week. His journey, including design roles at American mega brands like Ralph Lauren before launching his eponymous label, reflects a deliberate and strategic approach. This method allowed him to cultivate Willy Chavarria the brand when he felt confident in his vision and design codes, which are deeply rooted in the multiplicity of New York street culture, where he now resides, and his Mexican-American upbringing in Fresno, California.

His perseverance and dedication have paid off, evident in his recognition as the 2023 Menswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA awards and his growing presence on the red carpet, with notable admirers like Billie Eilish. Furthermore, his collection will soon be stocked in prestigious retailers like Barney’s and Saks. The ambiance of his shows is often characterised by a buzzy and celebratory atmosphere, complemented by rows of church candles and religious ephemera that serve as recurring motifs in his work.

Chavarria's signature voluminous silhouette, reminiscent of both baggy streetwear and the opulence of traditional couture, remains a focal point. However, he infuses freshness into his designs through new fabrications, such as houndstooth wool featured in leaner trousers and elongated overcoats. A mood of refinement permeates the collection, with sweaters elegantly draped around the neck and brilliant tuxedo-style tailoring, featuring dramatically pitched lapels, adding a sense of sophistication and edge. Through his distinct aesthetic and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, Willy Chavarria continues to captivate audiences and redefine contemporary menswear.

HELMUT LANG

"Protection versus projection," remarked Peter Do as he unveiled his sophomore collection for Helmut Lang, marking the opening of New York Fashion Week. "The way we protect ourselves is the way we define: armour or adornment?" This message resonated throughout the collection, echoed in the printed notes, which bore the same all-caps logotype as Lang's own campaigns.

The garments themselves spoke to this dichotomy, with shirts and trousers crafted from bubble wrap, symbolising both protection and sensuality as they exposed the inner workings of the garment beneath. Other pieces, such as knits that enveloped the face and body, offered protection against the elements. A crescent-shaped bag, reminiscent of an airplane pillow, suggested comfort and security, while technical vests recalled the "bulletproof" vests from Lang's archival collections.

The collection's inspiration stemmed from a deep observation of New York's dress codes, reflecting the city's demands for both protection and self-expression through clothing. However, while the collection astutely mined hallmarks of the Helmut Lang archive, it sometimes felt like it lacked the unique sensuality and subversion that defined the brand's seminal 1990s collections. This balance is more finely struck by Do in his eponymous brand's collections, which he will showcase later this month in Paris on February 27th.

Through this exploration of protection and adornment, Peter Do's collection for Helmut Lang offers a thought-provoking reflection on the complexities of modern dressing and the interplay between functionality and expression.

Vogue World Is Heading To Paris To Kick Off Haute Couture Week

When Vogue World launched in 2022, it unspooled in downtown New York City as a street-fair-slash-fashion-show with all the makings of a legendary night. Models graced an open-air runway, Lil Nas X performed while flanked by the Hadid sisters, and hot pastrami sandwiches were served courtesy of Michael Kors and Katz’s Deli. When the event hopped the pond for Vogue World: London in 2023, an opening night in the West End was reimagined at the historic Theatre Royal Drury Lane: Annie Lennox serenaded the crowd with “Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This),” FKA Twigs sang alongside Rembert dancers, and The Supers – Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington – took a surprise walk down the runway. The star-studded event featured a stirring red carpet (remember Sienna Miller in that bump-baring Schiaparelli?) and raised £2 million for various British arts organisations. Let’s do it again, shall we?

This year, the fashion and revelry continues, with Vogue World coming to life in Paris on the famed Place Vendôme, surrounded by haute couture ateliers at the centre of the First Arrondissement. Mark your calendar – the festivities are set for Sunday 23 June.

"I am delighted that Vogue World has found its third home here in Paris,” Anna Wintour, chief content officer, Condé Nast, and global editorial director, Vogue, announced today from the Ritz Paris. “If Vogue World: New York was a street fair, and Vogue World: London was a glamorous night at the theatre – supporting arts and cultural organisations in London – Paris will be a kind of opening ceremony; one that celebrates 100 years of fashion and sport, as well as this extraordinary city.” Wintour was joined by an illustrious group: Bruno Pavlovsky, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode; designers Simon Porte Jacquemus, Olivier Rousteing, Marine Serre, and Pharrell Williams; and a number of French Olympians, including fencer Enzo Lefort.

Williams, who relocated to Paris to take the helm at Louis Vuitton Menswear, followed Wintour’s remarks, noting his anticipation for Vogue’s arrival in the City of Light. “Vogue World: Paris will spotlight the best of what is truly French style; both what we see on our runways, and what appears on our avenues and boulevards.” Pharrell added, “It’s that inclusive spirit that has long made this city a haven for artists, and what continues to make Parisian fashion so extraordinary.”

Vogue World: Paris is being imagined in collaboration with youth athletic academies from throughout France, pairing each Olympic sport – cycling, gymnastics, tennis, taekwondo, fencing, and break dancing, among others – with a theme of French fashion for every decade since 1924, when Paris last hosted the Olympic games. The event will showcase French designers, current and past, as well as houses that historically present their collections in Paris. The evening will be punctuated by surprise live performances.

Among a global team of luminaries tapped to realise the production are Carine Roitfeld and Ib Kamara spearheading fashion alongside Palais Galliera curator Alexandre Samson; Dame Pat McGrath returning to lead makeup design; and Parris Goebel, the world-renowned dancer and choreographer behind Rihanna’s Super Bowl LVII halftime show, overseeing artistic direction and choreography. The livestream, broadcast globally via Vogue, will be directed for the third time by Sam Wrench, best known for his work on Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour film.

Vogue is committed to making a meaningful impact by donating a portion of the net proceeds from ticket sales to the Paris 2024 charitable tickets programme in association with Secours Populaire, a humanitarian organisation dedicated to granting individuals in low-income households the unique opportunity to attend the Olympic and Paralympic Games. The organisation also facilitates access to essential equipment for young, aspiring athletes across France.

A limited number of tickets are available. Email paris@vogueworld.com for information about purchasing tickets. Additionally, there are reserved seats for purchase by Vogue Club members. You can watch Vogue World 2024 on Vogue’s exclusive livestream from Paris at 2pm EST / 8pm CET on June 23.