The set designed imagined a neighbourhood
On the afternoon of his Coach show in New York, Stuart Vevers delivered to long-distance guests a Coach-centric village newspaper and an old-fashioned apple pie. “Made with love”, it echoed the values of his friendly neighbourhood set design. “The idea of a neighbourhood came to mind very early. I liked that it was very simple and universal. It’s a place that feels sentimental and sometimes bitter-sweet: the idea of home, which is so personal to every person. But this is almost like an abstracted version of a neighbourhood, because I want people to fill in the gaps with their own memories,” he said on a video call from New York. Far from the Doncaster neighbourhood Vevers grew up – “semi-detached houses, working class” – his Coach dream was inspired by that of E.T.
It was dressed-up daywear
These days, the family life embodied by the image of the provincial neighbourhood is very much a reality for Vevers, whose twins are turning two this year. His premise made for an almost wholesome Coach collection. Classic shearling jackets had a familiar and reassuring effect, but only almost: the designer imbued them with the gestures of eveningwear – a dramatic collar, an elegant sleeve – creating a juxtaposition between rugged and refined. “It comes from an evening place but I always bring it back to the day.” They evolved into graphic manifestations with the leather side printed in pattern and the furry side dyed in bright colours.
It featured repurposed leather pieces
“It’s my single favourite piece in the whole collection,” Vevers said of a black leather coat cut in the 1970s retro manner. It was repurposed from the leathers of vintage finds. “We took them apart and created these pieces,” he explained. “It feels really rich because these people have gone through multiple lives.” Throughout the collection, Vevers explored our associations with leather. “Hari Nef has often inspired me, and she tweeted after the last show something like, ‘Eagle Bar merch at Coach. Talk about heritage leather baby.’” The actress’s association made him think about how layered leather is a reference, from ideas of sophistication to comfort to cool, “through to the material as a fetish.”
“It’s my single favourite piece in the whole collection,” Vevers said of a black leather coat cut in the 1970s retro manner. It was repurposed from the leathers of vintage finds. “We took them apart and created these pieces,” he explained. “It feels really rich because these people have gone through multiple lives.” Throughout the collection, Vevers explored our associations with leather. “Hari Nef has often inspired me, and she tweeted after the last show something like, ‘Eagle Bar merch at Coach. Talk about heritage leather baby.’” The actress’s association made him think about how layered leather is a reference, from ideas of sophistication to comfort to cool, “through to the material as a fetish.”
Clothes were covered in graffiti and playful graphics
A series of prim little candy-coloured and white dresses in lace or crochet were styled with biker boots and baseball caps to interrupt their poise. “They’re dream thrift store finds, in a way,” Vevers said, and they often felt grungy. “It’s very nostalgic, very charming, and very indulgent: the idea of dressing up.” As the pandemic seems to be fizzling out, he wanted the collection to convey “the joy of dressing up” in an everyday way. The feeling was echoed in pieces hand-graffitied by the duo Mint & Serf, and in graphics Vevers said were rooted in youth culture like an animated house that was DJ-ing and a teddy bear that was glowing up.
A series of prim little candy-coloured and white dresses in lace or crochet were styled with biker boots and baseball caps to interrupt their poise. “They’re dream thrift store finds, in a way,” Vevers said, and they often felt grungy. “It’s very nostalgic, very charming, and very indulgent: the idea of dressing up.” As the pandemic seems to be fizzling out, he wanted the collection to convey “the joy of dressing up” in an everyday way. The feeling was echoed in pieces hand-graffitied by the duo Mint & Serf, and in graphics Vevers said were rooted in youth culture like an animated house that was DJ-ing and a teddy bear that was glowing up.
Bags included the new Bandit
As part of the collection, Vevers debuted his newest accessory, the Bandit Bag, a hard, polished leather square or rectangle box bag he called “very proper and smart” in keeping with the dressing-up mentality he was feeling this season. Paired with the collection’s grunge and skater spirit, it instantly took on the lived-in values expressed in many of Vevers’s garments. “It feels very heritage,” as he pointed out.
As part of the collection, Vevers debuted his newest accessory, the Bandit Bag, a hard, polished leather square or rectangle box bag he called “very proper and smart” in keeping with the dressing-up mentality he was feeling this season. Paired with the collection’s grunge and skater spirit, it instantly took on the lived-in values expressed in many of Vevers’s garments. “It feels very heritage,” as he pointed out.
No comments:
Post a Comment