Slimane may be divisive and his methods may well invite dissenters, but there is no arguing with his selling power. Indeed, the game-changing nature of his success has set an ambitious precedent for other luxury labels who must be longing to emulate Saint Laurent's commercial coup.
The most recent figures published by Saint Laurent's parent company, Kering, show that, under Slimane, the brand has more than doubled annual sales revenue to €707 million, up from €353 million in 2011. 66 per cent of the business is represented by leather goods and shoes. Ever the deft image-maker, Slimane has naturally understood the inevitable necessity for It bags: According to Harrods fashion director, Helen David, The Monogram family (the collection featuring the classic entwined YSL insignia) is one of the store's best-selling styles.
"Other strong sellers include the shopper and the new Baby Monogram style," says David. "The Sac de Jour, with the more discreet branding, also sells well." Saint Laurent accessory sales have also been boosted by the designer's development of new cult shoe-styles including the Paris and the Janis alongside the more classic Tribute. This clever duality has ensured the continued loyalty of both old and new clientele.
What currently sets Slimane apart from his peers, however, is the success of his ready-to-wear lines. Kering's figures reveal that ready-to-wear was the fastest growing category for the brand, making up an impressive 24 per cent of the sales. Compare that to Kering's other luxury labels, including Gucci whose ready-to-wear accounts for 12 per cent of sales (although there is great optimism that this may change with Alessandro Michele re-invigorating the brand) and Bottega Veneta, which comes in at just 5 per cent.
Slimane's packaging of an easily identifiable, understandable and aspirational look - namely rock'n'roll - has struck a chord with his wealthy customers. He uses a clear and specific aesthetic: an un-showy, musical subculture that has run from glam-rock to LA grunge. Earlier designers often associated their brand with one look to huge advantage - think Ralph lauren and preppy Americana. Slimane's quiet talent is in identifying something interesting and subversive, smoothing the edges off, washing out the dirt and repackaging it in a stealth-wealth friendly showcase.
Re-writing the rulebook and doing things on his own terms is something that Slimane has achieved with apparent ease. Although he is French-born, he continues to live in his adopted hometown of LA, rather than the more conventional move of relocating to his Paris atelier, and it is this Californian aesthetic which informs much of his design.
The collections consist of luxurious, but very basic, pieces including leather biker jackets, bombers, denim and tailored jackets - and by all accounts, they have been flying out of the stores. "We have been selling a myriad of different styles from leopard print pony skin capes to military parka coats to felted wool double breasted fitted coats," attests David. Saint Laurent is one of Barney's top ten performers and Justin O' Shea, buying director at My Theresa, has described Saint Laurent sales with them as "meteoric".
What currently sets Slimane apart from his peers, however, is the success of his ready-to-wear lines. Kering's figures reveal that ready-to-wear was the fastest growing category for the brand, making up an impressive 24 per cent of the sales. Compare that to Kering's other luxury labels, including Gucci whose ready-to-wear accounts for 12 per cent of sales (although there is great optimism that this may change with Alessandro Michele re-invigorating the brand) and Bottega Veneta, which comes in at just 5 per cent.
Slimane's packaging of an easily identifiable, understandable and aspirational look - namely rock'n'roll - has struck a chord with his wealthy customers. He uses a clear and specific aesthetic: an un-showy, musical subculture that has run from glam-rock to LA grunge. Earlier designers often associated their brand with one look to huge advantage - think Ralph lauren and preppy Americana. Slimane's quiet talent is in identifying something interesting and subversive, smoothing the edges off, washing out the dirt and repackaging it in a stealth-wealth friendly showcase.
Re-writing the rulebook and doing things on his own terms is something that Slimane has achieved with apparent ease. Although he is French-born, he continues to live in his adopted hometown of LA, rather than the more conventional move of relocating to his Paris atelier, and it is this Californian aesthetic which informs much of his design.
The collections consist of luxurious, but very basic, pieces including leather biker jackets, bombers, denim and tailored jackets - and by all accounts, they have been flying out of the stores. "We have been selling a myriad of different styles from leopard print pony skin capes to military parka coats to felted wool double breasted fitted coats," attests David. Saint Laurent is one of Barney's top ten performers and Justin O' Shea, buying director at My Theresa, has described Saint Laurent sales with them as "meteoric".
Whether Slimane receives positive reviews or not has almost become an irrelevance. He has turned the traditional idea of a show - as image-enhancer rather than a vehicle to sell clothes - on its head. Slimane's loyal devotees want the runway looks and you only have to spend five minutes in one of the Saint Laurent stores to feel that the cult of Hedi and his brand have a life of their own.
In a rare interview - for Yahoo! Style - Slimane talked about his "pursuit of the idea of perfecting something apparently simple." He also said that he has never forgotten a piece of advice given to him by Pierre Berge on the eve of his first show for the house: "He (Berge) told me: 'Remember, Yves sent a peacoat out on his first passage for his first runway, not an evening gown'."
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