Friday, October 4, 2024

Inside Coperni’s Disneyland Paris Show

Fashion month is a rollercoaster. A long one, with many sharp turns. When you board it, at the start of New York Fashion Week, you’ll have a sun-kissed August glow. People will remark how well you look. And you do look well. Your suitcase will be immaculately packed; you’ll be up to date with your dry cleaning. By London, the jet lag will leave you feeling slightly upside down, but nothing that a dab of that Victoria Beckham X Augustinus Bader concealer can’t hide. You’ll try to find time in your schedule to go to M&S to stock up on seamless microfibre low-rise briefs in lieu of having time to do laundry (but won’t). Around the midpoint of Milan Fashion Week, you’ll be willing to trade your front-row seat for an early night and a packet of Strepsils as your seat mates start coming down with something they swear isn’t Covid, but is – kind of – similar. You’ll FaceTime your hair colourist from your hotel bathroom to walk you through a root touch up.

By the time Paris Fashion Week is in full flow, however, you’ve acclimatised to living off the truffle crisps in the hotel mini bar between filing. You’re rejuvenated by Alessandro Michele’s debut Valentino show, and still buoyed by the memory of Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa spring/summer 2025 runway, which turned the famous helix of Manhattan’s Guggenheim Museum into a catwalk; the group chat has come back to life to hypothesise about where Hedi Slimane might go next, now that he’s parted ways with Celine. Now, you don’t want to go back to normal life – you want to hold on to the surreal fantasy of fashion month to the very end of the rollercoaster. And you’ll want the mid-ride photograph, where your eyes are half closed but you're smiling, having survived the loop-the-loop, as a souvenir.

Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, co-founders of viral French fashion label, Coperni, seem to be able to intuit how show guests would like to feel at a runway show – the wow-am-I-seeing-this-for-real-ness of a really great fashion spectacle. (Who can forget Bella Hadid and the spray-on dress, a piece of performance art that stunned onlookers – and broke the internet – during the finale of Coperni’s spring/summer 2023’s runway show.) For those of us who didn’t come down with the illness which definitely isn’t Covid, Paris Fashion Week (and an entire fashion month) ended at 1am this morning on Hyperspace Mountain at Disneyland Paris. It was there – specifically at Sleeping Beauty’s Castle – that the Coperni duo staged their spring/summer 2025 runway show. After a little over four weeks of divine chaos, I stepped off the rollercoaster with my hair standing on end, and thought: I’m so lucky that this is a job – like, an actual job – and then I rode Hyperspace Mountain again for a second time before retiring for a bag of truffle-flavoured crisps.


Meyer and Vaillant dubbed last night’s Disneyland Paris takeover “a celebration of youth, nostalgia and imagination” – and were bang on the mark. For anyone well versed in Disney-speak, the al fresco pre-show cocktails were held near the start of Main Street. (I should add that the fashion industry – and Vogue editors in particular – are Disney stans.) The atmosphere was similar to a school trip as we began walking en masse through the Magic Kingdom towards Sleeping Beauty’s castle to take our seats. At just before 11pm Paris time, the castle’s signature pink lights shut down. Everyone fell silent. Not tired silent, but in awe. That’s when the Disney string orchestra soundtrack, which makes you feel like everything might one day be OK in the world, kicked in and the show began. Fireworks, cinematic lightning bolts et al.

Jenner is now a mainstay on the world’s most select front rows, but taking a turn on the runway herself? That’s pretty rare. Sleeping Beauty’s castle glowed fuchsia pink as Jenner elegantly walked across the footbridge in a fairytale strapless gown and stocking gloves. The beauty mogul wasn’t in a hurry to get back to the city after the finale, either: when I stepped out of my Hyperspace Mountain seat (for the second time around in half an hour), a jubilant Jenner hopped in for her turn. The other rides which guests enjoyed well into the small hours? Buzz Lightyear Laser Blast and the Orbitron, while the Videopolis Theatre was transformed into a Coperni dance club for one night only.

Lila Moss graced the runway in a Cinderella-yellow body under a watery-sheer minidress (look 41), while Amelia Gray played the evil queen (look 27). Think: jets of smoke, flame-throwers and a throbbing techno soundtrack to accompany the raven-haired model as she strutted across the footbridge – the castle, naturally, illuminated fluorescent green.

Ten per cent of the collection was produced in collaboration with Disney, the designers told Vogue Runway’s Luke Leitch. They even mixed in vintage Disney merch, which is why looks 17 and 15 are among my personal favourites – right down to the key chains that jingled as the models walked. Naturally, I boarded the Eurostar the next day (having rested my head in the Disneyland Hotel under a portrait of Snow White), loaded down with souvenirs (see above: Vogue editors are Disney stans).

No comments:

Post a Comment