Hedi Slimane: "Design Will Always Be An Option"

There  may still be a role in fashion on the cards for Hedi Slimane yet. The former Saint Laurent creative director didn’t rule out a return to the industry in an interview for the August issue of Vogue Italia.

"Going back to design will always be an option, as long as I stay loyal to my principles, and keep protecting the integrity of my work," he told Vogue Italia editor-at-large Luke Leitch.

Slimane joined Saint Laurent for the second time in 2012 - his first stint as director of menswear ready-to-wear ended when he left for Dior - when he underwent a "Reform Project" of the 56-year-old fashion house. Four years later in April 2016, Slimane was out and Anthony Vaccarello was in as creative director, but not before he had put his stamp on the brand: he dropped the "Yves" from the ready-to-wear label; established a design base in LA, 9,000km away from the Rue de L’Université where the brand had been based since 1961; and changed the overall aesthetic of both the advertising campaigns and brick-and-mortar store interiors.

However, being a designer wasn’t always the plan for Slimane. "Very early on, probably at age 13, I had this fantasy of working for Le Monde, the French national newspaper as a reporter," he said, admitting that his style of photography is credited with a type of "perpetual photo reportage".

Parisian-born Slimane, who has lived in Los Angeles since 2007, also cited his two hometowns as his inspiration in both art and fashion, along with Berlin and London where he spent a lot of time with British musicians.

"I documented extensively what, for me, was one of the most exciting times in music," he said. "Dior Homme shows from 2005 were exclusively filled with this magnificent legion of UK bands, and the fashion I was designing was somehow dedicated to them, a stage wardrobe."

Since his departure, rumours have circulated almost monthly about where the former Saint Laurent designer will head next. Even though his primary focus is now on his photography and art career, his latest interview with Vogue Italia editor-at-large Luke Leitch has fanned the flames once again.

Introducing Reserved: The Polish High-Street Brand Kate Moss Is Backing

Kate Moss has introduced us to a new high-street brand: Reserved. The Polish store will launch in London on September 6, and ahead of the Oxford Street store opening its doors, Reserved has released a teaser image of Moss modelling its wares.

Naturally, Moss gives the clothing – a black PVC mini skirt and logo tee – her signature, mussed-up, rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic, so what else can we expect from Reserved? The Polish export already has 450 stores across 18 countries, and is popular due to its trend-conscious, affordable collections that are refreshed every two weeks. It’s part of the LPP Group, a European clothing conglomerate that is serious about expansion.

Speaking about the UK launch, co-founder and CEO Marek Piechocki commented: “The opening of Reserved Oxford Street is an important move for us. London is a fashion capital and having a presence in this prestigious location will be another step towards building global recognition of Reserved as a brand and LPP as a company.”

The next few weeks will see the brand drop more campaign imagery of Moss, all shot by Daniel Jackson. The recruitment of the model is a deft tactic to put Reserved’s European aesthetic into context for Londoners – those who still look to Moss for fashion inspiration.

“It was important for us to portray the personal, private and authentic attitude of Kate in this imagery - this is what the Reserved brand embodies, both style and individuality,” said global marketing director of the brand, Monika Kaplan.

Reserved is not the only European store to join the British high street this summer. H&M’s latest brand, Arket, will also open on Oxford Street on August 25, with a focus on sustainability, durability and quality within the same minimalist Nordic aesthetic as COS and & Other Stories, the successful Swedish brands already in H&M’S repertoire.Arket: The Ideal Everyday Uniform.

The Designer Behind Rihanna’s 'Loyalty' Look

By now you will have seen Rihanna and Kendrick Lamar’s Bonnie and Clydeantics in music video ‘LOYALTY’. The duo are plunged into various surreal and dangerous situations – the edge of a high-rise building, a car chase – in order to demonstrate Lamar’s dedication to his lady, as well as defending his own honour, during the duration of the hip hop track.

Dangling off a tower block and doing doughnuts in Lamar’s motor marks just another day in the office for Rihanna, who is currently on silver screens as shapeshifting cabaret performer Bubble in Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets. Throughout the ‘LOYALTY’ video, which is directed by Dave Meyers & The Little Homies, she’s immaculate as Lamar’s racy right-hand woman.

Styled by Anna Trevelyan and Jahleel Weaver, Rihanna wears two main looks: a white fluffy jacket and lace-up dress by House of CB, and a black Agent Provocateur slip and matching Juun. J trench coat. It’s the latter Matrix-style jacket by Seoul Fashion Week star Juun. J that piqued our interest.

Having graduated from Esmod Seoul in 1992, Juun. J has been in the fashion industry for some time. He founded his first menswear label Lone Costume in 1999, and transformed it into his namesake brand in 2007. Over the years he’s honed his avant garde style of “street tailoring” into pieces that appeal to those looking for attitude with their outerwear. Rihanna, who is known for her love of menswear, was the perfect candidate for Juun. J’s moment in the hip hop spotlight.

Watch Lamar’s Twerk-heavy video, and start considering men’s designers in your winter coat planning now.

How Naomi Campbell Does Wedding Guest Style

Naomi Campbell attended the glamorous wedding of marketing manager Carol Sabbagha in Beirut, Lebanon, at the weekend wearing not one, but two standout gowns.

For the celebrations at Chateau Rweiss, Campbell looked to Ralph & Russo,the first British brand to be elected in almost 100 years by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2014. Pictured posing next to the bride, the model looked at home in a red-carpet-ready autumn/winter 2017 couture confection, a turquoise one-shoulder silk gown with dramatic thigh slit. A diamond headdress and cuff completed her ensemble.

The Vogue contributing editor was in glamorous company at the lavish Lebanon celebration. Tamara Ralph, who founded Ralph & Russo with partner Michael Russo in 2007, was captured in the photographs that emerged on social media alongside Victoria’s Secret star Izabel Goulart, who wore Zuhair Murad.

Campbell joined her fellow model in showing support for homegrown talent via a second gown – a heavily embroidered red-and-black dress with train – by Hussein Bazaza. The local couturier scooped up the Dubai Design & Fashion Council/Vogue 2015 Fashion Prize and has since been stocked on Farfetch and Moda Operandi.

A couture turn in a native designer and one of the bride’s own descent, Campbell does wedding guest dressing with a dash of diplomacy.

Victoria’s Secret Model Vita Sidorkina Marries In Italy

A celebrity-filled guest list descended on Italy's Amalfi Coast this weekend to watch Victoria’s Secret model Vita Sidorkina walk down the aisle to marry her long-term partner, Valerio Morabito.

The Russian model and her property mogul partner hosted a glamorous pre-party for guests at the Belmond Hotel Caruso - a former 11th-Century palace boasting picturesque views of the Mediterranean - before the ceremony on Saturday afternoon held at Ravello Cathedral, Duomo di Ravello, in the historic town's main square. Guests returned to the Belmond Hotel for a reception filled with dancing, performers and floral decorations.

The 23-year-old looked to Zuhair Murad to design the "dream dress" for her nuptials; a long-sleeved lace gown with a high neck, teamed with an intricate veil for the church portion of the celebrations. Bridesmaids wore light pink floor-length dresses to match the bride's bouquet.

Fellow models including Iris Van Berne, Melissa Tammerijn and Madison Headrick were among the guests at the weekend-long celebrations. Also in attendance was British socialite Tamara Beckwith, along with her Italian husband, Giorgio Veroni, and their children.

Sidorkina made her editorial debut in 2013 for Cream Magazine before she signed a contract with underwear brand Victoria's Secret in 2014, walking for the annual fashion show in November 2015. The model told followers it had been the "best day of our lives".

Alessandro Michele's Exclusive Collection For Harrods

Alessandro Michele´s exclusive collection and DIY service has launched today at Harrods in a garden-themed Gucci takeover.

The partnership between the Italian fashion house and the British department store plays host to the House DIY program in a garden-themed takeover. Inspired by Michele’s love of self-expression, customers are able to personalise selected products with decorative patches, bringing the "complete Gucci DIY offering" to the UK for the first time.

Artist Alex Merry has created illustrations of the possible customisation as inspiration for the customer’s personalisation needs.

"This Harrods Gucci collaboration allows our customers the rare opportunity to challenge their own personal creativity with the same eclectic spirit that Alessandro Michele has brought to fashion over the past few seasons," Harrods chief merchant Helen David told us. "Gucci aficionados will be able to personalise their own statement items, from bags and shoes to all facets of ready-to-wear, in the ultimate interactive design experience within the Gucci Garden at Harrods. This is a true world-first exclusive, bringing together the best of Gucci fashion and beauty at Harrods. We know our customers will be so excited by this partnership and we cannot wait for them to have fun immersing themselves in the whole Harrods Gucci experience letting their imaginations and creative streaks run wild."

Throughout the month-long partnership, Harrods will also host a limited-edition Gucci ready-to-wear collection designed by Alessandro Michele, along with Ace sneakers, women’s jewellery, and childrenswear dresses. A variety of accessories have also been exclusively created for the store, including a version of the Lilith handbag, with patches, and mini Dionysus and Sylvie bags in a multitude of colours.

In another first, Harrods will host the debut of Michele's first fragrance for women, Gucci Bloom, with a dedicated installation in the beauty hall with the windows at the Gucci Sloane and Old Bond Street boutiques mirroring the same design. The brand partnership sees the Brompton Road exhibition windows feature a Gucci Garden in full bloom with green and pink velvet capitone walls, floral compositions, vintage oriental rugs and pink mannequins showcasing exclusive Gucci evening gowns.

See an exclusive preview of all Alex Merry's inspiring illustrations, along with the collection of ready-to-wear garments below, on sale from tomorrow at Harrods.

The Gucci Garden was unveiled at Harrods on July 31 and will run throughout August. The Gucci Bloom fragrance is exclusively available in store and at Harrods.com, as well as Gucci London boutiques.

Meet Marine Serre, LVMH's Latest Prize Winner

Earlier this summer, the 25-year-old Corrèze-born designer Marine Serre won the LVMH Prize - one of the most prestigious awards for young designers in fashion - pocketing €300,000 and marking her place as fashion’s newest darling. She’d been sipping water behind the stage when she heard Rihanna announce her name at the awards ceremony in Paris. “That was a weird moment because I was really not expecting anything,” says Serre, speaking in the 18ème arrondissement apartment-slash-studio she and her team of two moved into a month after winning the Prize. “It was kind of magical.”

Serre stands just over five feet tall, with short, cropped hair that frames a sly smile. Her petite frame is hunched over a laptop next to her sister Justine when I arrive, and her demeanour is all business. Hanging on the far wall are the two collections responsible for her win, “15-21” and “Radical Call for Love,” designed during her student days at La Cambre-Mode in Brussels.

A jury of industry legends had decided her fate, among them Karl Lagerfeld(whose own career launched after winning a design prize in 1954) and Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière. Serre, who joined Balenciaga as a design assistant in March, hadn’t expected to win. In fact, she didn’t think she was established enough to apply in the first place, despite the interest in her graduate collection from such influential stockists as The Broken Arm boutique in Paris and H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles. It was a scout from the French luxury group who asked the designer in January to participate in the competition against 1,200 other hopefuls. “[Our decision] was quite unanimous,” Ghesquière told Vogue shortly after her name was read. “It was the way she represents dressing today: the sports clothes, the body consciousness, and a kind of romanticism and femininity. It really speaks of [this] generation.”

Serre thinks her win bodes well for emerging talent in an industry that is increasingly shaped by the corporate parent companies like LVMH and Kering that financially back the major fashion houses. “That this big and huge company is actually giving a chance to someone like me, who is independent of them… I think it gives a lot of hope to people,” says Serre. “It’s hard for a lot of designers today because things move so quickly. I don’t want to do it only to make money.”

Serre’s designs contain multitudes. The two collections she’s produced to date deftly combine a range of techniques, silhouettes and fabrics, from lycra and velcro to screen-printed moiré. Much of her genius lies in the details. The tag inside one especially remarkable coat, with an open collar that brings to mind the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, reads: “Orange Recovery Blanket, Satin Ribbon, Brussels, 2015.” The lapels of another jacket are fastened by small, tear-drop shaped French porcelain doorknobs. Her pairing of colour is masterful, too: The bell sleeves of a tailored camel coat lined in a burnished orange, a kelly green sports top contrasted with a skirt of sky blue. Like that other great alchemist of colour, Raf Simons, Serre doesn’t draw. That is because she “never sees things flat,” she says. “It’s important for me that you should dress directly and see how it fits on someone real.”

While her collars and colour palettes are plenty worthy of admiration, it’s Serre’s adroit fusion of styles, periods and references - a mish-mash of karakous, kaftans and other 19th-century silhouettes, combined with the materials and cuts of Nineties sportswear - that makes her work unlike anything else on the runways. It’s encapsulated in the crescent moon that appears throughout “Radical Call for Love” - equal parts modern sports logo and Islamic art reference. The moon is also the symbol of the woman, and Serre revels in the plethora of meaning. “It’s something for me that is a beautiful form, and then in another way it’s referring to a sportswear brand. So it’s also just playing with what is fashion today and playing also with branding,” says Serre. “I think it’s really beautiful, I’m not making a joke. I have irony, but I also think irony can be serious.” She plans to use the symbol again in her next collection, which she’s hoping to debut in January 2018.

The initial inspiration for “Radical Call for Love” came from the terrorist attacks in Brussels and Paris between 2015-2016 and Serre’s desire to braid the tensions of the East and West into something beautiful - a peace offering of sorts. Serre lived in Marseille and Brussels before moving to Paris in September 2016. All of the clothing and shoes in the lineup - 35 designs in total, three that have been added since its initial debut at La Cambre - are made either in a little atelier in Brussels or in France. One thousand pieces from the collection will be stocked for Autumn/Winter 2017 by Dover Street Market and Opening Ceremony. Isabelle Huppert and Ariana Grande have both been photographed in pieces.

Buyers have been watching Serre with keen interest for months. Guillaume Steinmetz, Anaïs Lafarge, and Romain Joste, the three founders of The Broken Arm in Paris, say it’s difficult to explain what exactly drew them to the young designer, “because the collection of Marine has generated for us an irrational emotion,” they wrote in an e-mail to Vogue. “Ninety-nine percent of the time another designer who tried to mix this kind of fabric with this kind of colours will do something that is too much, but not with her, she is an equilibrist. You can't really explain or define why you like it. That's exactly what we are looking for, when it's a little bit uncomfortable, not easy to catch.”

The next few months will be big ones for the designer, who will leave her role at Balenciaga after its next show and put a team together to start on her next collection. (“Come on, I cannot have two jobs at the same time, it’s impossible!” she says with a laugh.) But first, a brief pause. After a year of mounting accolades, press requests and industry acclaim, Serre will take a much-needed holiday in the Pyrenees - with only the open sky and crescent moon for distraction.