Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Bill Cunningham's Fitting NYC Tribute

Bill Cunningham who sadly passed away last month, was a regular sight on the sidewalks of Manhattan, snapping street style as he cycled, and now the city has found an apt way to remember him. As of yesterday the corner of 57th and 5th streets will be known as "Bill Cunningham Corner".

New York City mayor, Bill de Blasio, shared the news on his Twitter account, saying: "His vivid photos helped define New York as the fashion capital of the world, so we're naming 57th & 5th after him."


The tribute, although not permanent, comes as the result of a petition that was started shortly after his death and serves as a fitting celebration of the legendary photographer who famously "let the street speak to him".

Friday, July 8, 2016

Anya Hindmarch On The Bags That Launched Themselves

Anya Hindmarch delighted her male fans when she announced her dedicated menswear category last week - a business development that was brought about by the power of the people, according to the designer.

"Men started wearing our product so the menswear line really launched itself," she told us. "They have been coming in and buying pieces that were part of our women's collection for some time, as well as ordering pieces from our bespoke shop and putting stickers on their bags and phones, so we thought we might as well do it in a more organised way."


The collection - which launches today - comprises 10 bag styles, iPad and iPhone cases, wallet holders, travel tags, pouches and shoes, and bears all the hallmarks of the brand's signature good humour. The Men At Work style, recently seen on the big screen in Absolutely Fabulous, is sure to be a favourite in briefcase form.

The menswear collection will also enjoy a London Fashion Week outing in September, revealed the designer, who is planning to launch the collection first in her London, New York, LA and Japan flagships, before branching out with "key partners in Asia where we have some fun pop ups planned".

Hindmarch follows in the footsteps of fellow London-based designer Stella McCartney, who announced last month that she will be launching her menswear category in November.

Woolmark Announces British Isles Winners

The 2016 British Isles International Woolmark Prize winners have been chosen: Faustine Steinmetz for womenswear and Cottweiler for menswear. The two brands had tough competition, but they were both chosen for their "innate understanding of the fibre, a keen commercial sensibility and a great design aesthetic", according to judge Dylan Jones.

Faustine Steinmetz's winning collection saw the designer dye raw Merino wool several shades of indigo before felting it onto a base fabric - a method that judgeRoksanda Ilincic said showed "incredible creativity and an almost couture-like technique with her approach to the look and the wool fibre. There was scalability from something that was more artistic and experimental to something that is commercial, which was one of the great points of her collection."

Menswear winners Cottweiler, comprising design duo Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty, created a high-performance sportswear collection, working with an Italian mill to turn Merino wool into something unexpected.


"Cottweiler are a young brand but they understand what's happening in menswear now," explained judge Gordon Richardson. "They have youthful content and were very clever with how they transformed wool in the sportswear arena. That's something you don't usually see and the collection was something you want to wear right now. That's the real skill of a designer - they are definitely in the moment."

Both fashion brands will receive an AU $50,000 lump sum and mentoring for the next six months. They will both automatically be entered into the global final for the International Woolmark Prize, in which they will compete with the other regional winners for a further AU$100,000 prize and will have their collections hosted in top retailers around the world - including Harvey Nichols in London.

The Crown In Vogue

The Crown will be the talk of the town when it launches on Netflix in November, but ahead of the much-anticipated period production - which spans 1947 to 1956 - Vogue caught up with the cast on an exclusive shoot for the August issue.

"Being royal is no privilege," Eileen Atkins, who plays the Queen Mother, told Juliet Nicolson, sharing the insight she has gained after extensive research into her role. "They are constantly on, they cannot ever slip off their shoes in public. Celebrities choose fame. Royals have it thrust upon them."


Styled by Vogue fashion editor Verity Parker for the issue, the cast gather in exquisite creations evoking the era. Elie Saab Haute Couture, Zuhair Murad Couture, Ralph & Russo, Altuzarra, and Chanel Haute Couture all feature in the beautiful 10-page shoot.

Who Vetoed Leo´s Baywatch Role

Leonardo Di Caprio was nearly cast in a major role in Baywatch when he was 15-years-old, but the show's lead star, David Hasselhoff who played Mitch Buchannon, vetoed the decision.

"We actually had DiCaprio ready to be cast," Michael Berk, an original producer, told The Hollywood Reporter. "But David thought he was too old to play his son." Berk's fellow producer, Douglas Schwartz, went one step further, revealing that Hasselhoff, who went on to star in the hit TV show for 11 years between 1989 and 2000, was worried about how it would make him look. "David thought it would make him look older," revealed Schwartz. "He had a lot of concerns of that type."


Instead of DiCaprio, a nine-year-old Jeremy Jackson got the part, leaving the future Oscar winner to pursue a string of teenage hits, including TV shows Parenthood, Growing Pains, and his breakout film role, What's Eating Gilbert Grape in 1993.

Vestiaire Collective Launches Scandinavian Pop-Up

Scandanavian fashion is known as much for its effortlessly cool clothes as it is for its home-grown fashion stars who wear them, making Vestiaire Collective's latest initiative something of a masterstroke. The online purveyor of pre-loved sartorial treasures has enlisted six of the region's most followed trend setters to open up their wardrobes and sell pieces from their personal archives.

But it's not just their favourite purchases that fashion director of Style by magazine, Columbine Smille; stylist and consultant, Linn Hagglund; director of fashion site The You Way, Permille Teisbaek; Trine's Wardrobe founder, Trine Kjaer; founder of Octobernine.dk, Marie Hindkaer Wothers; and founder and creative director of Envelope.no, Celine Aagaard are sharing. They have advice on what to look out for too.


"Scandinavian style is all about identity, our roots and about quality fabrics. Monochrome, minimalistic and sharp lines are central to the look," Aagaard advised us. "Women dress down rather than dress up, with an androgenetic touch - oversized and layering- with a sporty twist."

The group all agree on the labels that they love the most. Céline, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Jonathan Anderson are the names on all of their lips, while Baum und Pferdgarten, Deitas, Totême and AltewaiSaome are just a few of the internationally emerging brands they say we should all keep an eye on.

But as much as Vestiaire Collective is about finding a treasure you never knew existed, it's also about finding the one that got away - and despite the enviable contents of their wardrobes, the six women all have their own lost treasures and wish lists.

"A white steel Santos watch from Cartier and the beige cloth sandals from Hermès," are on Aagard's wish list; "a Twist bag by Louis Vuitton," is what Hindkaer Wothers is looking out for; a Hermés Birkin is high on Hagglund's lust list; while Teisbaek and Smille both cite Céline items (a jumpsuit from Céline's spring/summer 2015 collection and a patchwork bag from Céline resort 2012 respectively) as the ones that got away; and Kjaer still longs for the velvet Chanel 2.55 bag that she didn't buy when she had the chance.

The Made In Scandinavia pop-up is now live at VestiaireCollective.com today.




Slimane Awarded €13 Million

Saint Laurent owner Kering has been ordered to pay former creative director Hedi Slimane €13 million following Slimane's legal application to have the non-compete clause in his former contract with the fashion house honoured.

When Slimane departed Saint Laurent after four years at the helm in April, Kering decided to lift the clause, meaning that while Slimane would be free to work for a competing label, he would not receieve the financial lump sum that usually comes as standard with such contracts.


Last month, Kering issued a statement clarifying its position, saying: "Kering lifted this clause at the end of Hedi Slimane's contract, thus freeing Hedi Slimane from this potential constraint. Hedi Slimane is requesting that this clause be applied still, along with the effective payment of the financial compensation that goes with it."

This morning it announced that it would be appealing the latest ruling: "The decision that was just made public is an interim decision. Kering intends to appeal the decision. The procedure is still going on."

Slimane was replaced at the fashion house by Anthony Vaccarrello, who previously worked under Donatella Versace at Versus.