"Fashion is the art of capturing the moment, blending tradition with innovation," a sentiment that perfectly encapsulates Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025. Over four dynamic days, Milan reaffirmed its place as the global capital of menswear, highlighting an extraordinary tapestry of creativity, artisanry, and forward-thinking design. While the absence of major players like Gucci, Fendi, and JW Anderson raised questions about the event’s future, the collections presented demonstrated that Milan remains a vital hub for defining modern menswear.
"Milan Fashion Week stands as a testament to the unparalleled creativity and craftsmanship that define the city’s essence. It is where storied heritage meets avant-garde experimentation, and tradition is masterfully reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This week is not merely about highlighting garments; it’s about storytelling, cultural dialogue, and pushing the boundaries of design. Milan consistently reminds the world why it remains a cornerstone of the fashion industry, blending its deep respect for history with a fearless embrace of the future." - Charles Daniel McDonald
The week offered a compelling blend of aesthetics, from the cerebral explorations of Prada to the heritage-inspired craftsmanship of Zegna and the subversive, emotional narratives of Magliano. Each designer brought a unique voice to the runway, ensuring that this season was as diverse as it was inspiring.
PRADA
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that delved deep into the realms of human instinct and creativity. The Prada show was staged at the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito space, featuring a monumental three-storey scaffolding structure that served as both a physical and symbolic framework for the collection. This intricate setup, combined with an art nouveau carpet, created a juxtaposition of industrial rawness and refined elegance, setting the tone for the eclectic designs that followed.
The collection was a tapestry of diverse elements, reflecting a deliberate departure from overanalysed fashion norms. Simons emphasised the importance of "creativity without overthinking," aiming to protect and value human instinct. This philosophy manifested in a range of garments that blended ruggedness with sophistication. Models donned slouchy denim paired with fur-collared coats, fur pelt vests, and patchworked distressed-leather suiting. The inclusion of scuffed-toe cowboy boots and plaid patterns further underscored the collection's rebellious yet thoughtful spirit.
A notable aspect was the use of talismans and totems, hung around the necks of models, symbolising a safeguard of human creativity in an era increasingly dominated by technology. This motif resonated with the overarching theme of instinctual design, challenging the homogenisation of culture. The designers' intent to rebel against cultural uniformity was evident in the diverse silhouettes and materials, ranging from raw-edged shearling to sleek satin.
The collection also paid homage to Americana, with Western-inspired detailing on knit sweaters, spangled stars, and those distinctive cowboy boots. This blend of cultural references created a narrative that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking, encapsulating a desire for freedom and individuality. Prada's ability to merge disparate elements into a cohesive and thought-provoking collection highlighted the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of contemporary menswear.
ZEGNA
Alessandro Sartori's latest collection for Zegna was a profound homage to the brand's rich heritage in wool artisanry. The show was set in a vast conference center on the outskirts of Milan, transformed into a verdant landscape reminiscent of the Australian and New Zealand meadows where Zegna sources its premium merino wool. Real grass underfoot and expansive screens displaying serene pastoral scenes immersed attendees in the brand's foundational narrative.
Central to the collection was the introduction of Vellus Aureum, an ultra-lightweight wool fleece that holds a world record for its fineness. Sartori utilised this exceptional material to craft shirts that were deceptively light, resembling the feel of cotton, yet retaining the luxurious properties of wool. Heritage houndstooth overcoats and tailoring, cut in relaxed, oversised proportions, paid tribute to traditional sartorial elegance while embracing contemporary comfort.
The collection also featured shearling-collar jackets, double-breasted and satisfyingly cocooning, which stood out as highlights of the season. These pieces encapsulated the brand's dedication to merging luxury with functionality. Sartori described the collection as reflecting a man who has "raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value." This narrative was evident in the use of washed wools and the lived-in feel of the garments, evoking a sense of timelessness and personal history.
A surprise highlight of the show was the appearance of actor John Turturro on the runway, adding a touch of cinematic flair to the presentation. His presence underscored the collection's blend of traditional artisanry and contemporary relevance, bridging the gap between classic menswear and modern sensibilities.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana transformed their Metropol Theatre into a cinematic spectacle, drawing inspiration from Federico Fellini's iconic film La Dolce Vita. The show, aptly titled "Paparazzi," featured a burgundy-hued red carpet runway flanked by a cadre of sharply-dressed photographers, their cameras flashing incessantly as models emerged, capturing the duality of public and private life inherent to cinema icons.
The collection was a rich tapestry that traversed the spectrum from casual daywear to opulent evening attire. The initial looks exuded a laid-back elegance, with models donning relaxed denim ensembles, plush faux-fur jackets, and oversized duffle bags, embodying a contemporary, off-duty actor aesthetic. As the show progressed, the designs transitioned into more formal territory, displaying three-piece satin suits, cummerbunds, and tuxedos adorned with glimmering crystal brooches and buttons. This progression mirrored the journey from the quotidian to the glamorous, encapsulating the life of a cinema icon from dawn to dusk.
The designers revisited their early-2000s aesthetic, incorporating elements such as bulked-up faux-fur jackets, slouchy denim jeans, cargo pants, baker-boy hats, and flourishes of leopard print and sequins. These pieces evoked a sense of nostalgia while remaining firmly rooted in contemporary fashion dialogues. The collection's eveningwear segment was particularly noteworthy, with tuxedos nipped at the waist with cummerbunds, exuding a timeless elegance that harkened back to Hollywood's golden era.
Dolce & Gabbana's ability to seamlessly blend the public and private facets of celebrity life into their designs resulted in a collection that was both introspective and celebratory. By capturing the essence of cinema icons and their dual realities—balancing the glamour of red-carpet appearances with the authenticity of their off-screen lives—the designers created a narrative that felt deeply personal yet universally resonant.
MAGLIANO
Luca Magliano’s collection transported audiences to the Adriatic coastline, but not in its sunny, idyllic form. Instead, the designer conjured a moody, windswept beach on a winter’s night, infused with a sense of rebellion and introspection. The runway, scattered with sand, set the tone for a narrative rooted in darkness and defiance, where figures roamed in search of solace or indulged in clandestine trysts.
Magliano’s designs embodied this duality of freedom and despair. Faux-fur coats slouched from shoulders, trousers hung loose and turned inside out, and undergarments stretched haphazardly over handbags. This Magliano aesthetic of disarray was deliberate, evoking the raw, hastily thrown-together outfits of night-time wanderers. The garments, while appearing undone, highlighted the designer's meticulous artisanry and understanding of fabric manipulation.
The collection blended bourgeois Italian style with underground subculture, a signature of Magliano’s work. This season, the influences of queer clubwear were particularly prominent, reflecting the designer’s deep connection to Bologna’s history of protest and revolution. The inclusion of techno-inspired soundtracks and cinematic lighting further enhanced the evocative atmosphere, making Magliano’s show a standout for its emotional depth and boundary-pushing creativity.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio Armani's latest collection explored the theme of "seduction" through tactile fabrics and versatile designs. Giorgio Armani’s vision was to create an all-encompassing wardrobe that could adapt to various climates and occasions. The result was a collection that oscillated between glamour and functionality, offering a sophisticated take on modern menswear.
Molten velvet tailoring, shimmering lurex knitwear, and patchworked brocades set the tone for a rich and opulent aesthetic. The collection also featured yeti-inspired faux-fur coats, puffer jackets, and utility-focused crossbody bags, catering to men who seek practicality without sacrificing style. Armani described this interplay of extremes as a key focus, blending functional outerwear with the brand’s signature elegance.
The mood of travel and adventure was palpable, with designs that felt equally suited for metropolitan streets and mountainous terrains. From velvet evening jackets to technical hiking gear, Emporio Armani’s collection demonstrated the brand’s ability to cater to diverse lifestyles while maintaining a cohesive identity. The show ended with a rapturous reception for Armani, underscoring his enduring influence and creative vitality as he continues his 90th birthday celebrations.
DUNHILL
Simon Holloway’s Dunhill collection, presented in the opulent Società del Giardino, was a masterful display of British heritage tailored for modern audiences. The setting—a private Milanese member’s club—perfectly complemented the collection’s refined aesthetic, with champagne and cucumber sandwiches providing a quintessentially English touch.
Holloway drew inspiration from the 1930s English Drape Suit, also known as the London Cut, characterised by its fluid silhouette, nipped waist, and sporting shoulder. This theme was evident in the wide-lapelled camel overcoats, high-waisted trousers, and pinstriped and plaid ensembles that dominated the collection. Eveningwear looks, complete with velvet slippers and ribbed knitwear, harkened back to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication.
What set this collection apart was Holloway’s meticulous approach to refinement. Instead of chasing trends, the designer focused on perfecting classic garments through superior cuts and fabrications. The result was a collection that felt both timeless and contemporary, reaffirming Dunhill’s reputation as a purveyor of understated luxury.
GIORGIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani’s menswear collection celebrated individuality and the rejection of pre-packaged fashion formulas. The designer’s mantra, “elegance to live in,” was brought to life through a series of fluid, versatile pieces that balanced luxury with practicality.
The collection featured a mix of relaxed tailoring and functional outerwear, with cargo-style pockets appearing on blazers and trousers. Soft, noble fibres such as merino wool, cashmere, and silk added a tactile richness to the designs, enhancing their wearability. Armani also incorporated sporty influences, including iridescent ski-inspired outerwear that provided a contemporary edge.
A significant highlight was Armani’s reinterpretation of his iconic 1980s and 1990s designs. By drawing on his archive and reimagining it for a new generation, the designer proved his enduring relevance in the fashion world. The show concluded with a sense of optimism, as Armani reminded audiences of the timeless appeal of pragmatic glamour.
Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025 reaffirmed the city’s position as a cornerstone of global fashion, offering a remarkable synthesis of tradition and innovation. Each collection brought its unique perspective to the forefront, with highlights ranging from Prada’s instinct-driven exploration of human creativity to Zegna’s heartfelt tribute to the artisanal legacy of wool. Magliano’s subversive take on identity and rebellion, Dolce & Gabbana’s cinematic homage to Hollywood, and the dual brilliance of Emporio and Giorgio Armani encapsulated the extraordinary range of creativity that defines Milan.
The absence of notable players like Gucci and JW Anderson may have raised questions about the future format of the week, but the sheer quality of the collections presented ensured that the event maintained its relevance and vibrancy. The designers demonstrated an exceptional ability to balance nostalgia with modernity, offering a vision of menswear that honours its roots while looking boldly to the future.
Milan Fashion Week was not just a display of garments; it was a celebration of storytelling, cultural dialogue, and the artistry of design. From innovative fabric techniques to meticulously crafted silhouettes, every collection reflected the designers’ dedication to pushing the boundaries of what menswear can be. The week proved that even in a condensed format, Milan remains an unparalleled force in defining and shaping the global fashion narrative.
As the industry continues to evolve, Milan Fashion Week’s ability to adapt, innovate, and inspire ensures its lasting legacy. With its mix of emerging talents and iconic powerhouses, the city continues to lead the charge, offering a compelling glimpse into the ever-expanding possibilities of menswear for seasons to come.
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