Luke And Lucie Meier Bow Out At Jil Sander

Jil Sander has split with Luke and Lucie Meier after seven years. The Milan-based house announced the end of the couple’s tenure as co-creative directors in a statement on 26 February.

In the statement, OTB Group chairman Renzo Rosso thanked the Meiers for their “vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”. Jil Sander was acquired by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group (home also to Diesel, Maison Martin Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf) in April 2021.

As well as shaping a freshly precise iteration of abstracted minimalism while at Jil Sander, the Meiers’s by-current-standards lengthy tenure was notable for making them the only married co-creative directors in luxury fashion. “The designers seize this occasion to express their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander teams who have consistently dedicated their energy, passion, and talent to this project, and are proud of the work they have accomplished alongside such wonderful people. A special thanks as well to Mr Rosso,” the statement reads.

A successor at Jil Sander was not named. In the most recent figures available, Sander reported a 17.3 per cent year-on-year sales increase in 2023. OTB Group did not break out sales figures for the brand in 2024.

The eponymous founder was 24 when she started the business in 1968, opening her first store in Hamburg. With the introduction of womenswear in the 1970s and later menswear in the 1990s, she established her own highly influential codes of romantic and highly crafted androgyny. She sold a majority stake to Prada in 1999 before leaving the brand for the first of three times in 2000. She was lured back again in 2003 and stayed for two years before being succeeded by Raf Simons. He proved a brilliant creative captain, but was himself spirited away by Dior in 2011. So Sander returned once again, only to depart in 2013 for personal reasons. The Meiers came on board following the tenure of Rodolfo Paglialunga.

The couple first met in 2001 as students at Polimoda in Florence and enjoyed diversely successful career paths before becoming professionally wedded at Sander. Intensely thoughtful, they have brought stability back to the label while materially engaging with craft through design to create a vision of Sander that was simultaneously true to its liberating origins but also specific to their vision.

20 Labels From 15 Countries – The LVMH Prize Announces Its 2025 Semifinalists

In the 12 years since its inception, the LVMH Prize has recognised some of fashion’s most era-defining talents, uplifting the careers of designers from Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver to Marine Serre, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and Eli Russell Linnetz of ERL.

This morning, the Prize announced its 2025 class of semifinalists. The 20 labels selected come from 15 countries, including Egypt, Ghana, and Saudi Arabia, all for the very first time. Renaissance Renaissance’s Cynthia Merhej of Lebanon and Soshiotsuki’s Soshi Otsuki of Japan, have both competed for the Prize before, in 2016 and 2021 respectively.

“As the LVMH Prize steps into a new decade, it is my honour once more to welcome some exceptional talents,” said Christian Dior CEO Delphine Arnault in a statement. “With this 2025 edition, we are seeing several compelling trends… from a renewed interest in tailoring, to handcrafted embellishments and bold occasion dressing,” she continued.

The winner of the LVMH Prize will receive a €400,000 endowment alongside a one-year mentorship from a dedicated LVMH team. The Karl Lagerfeld Prize will award a €200,000 endowment plus a mentorship program, as will the Savoir-Faire Prize, now entering its second year. (Michael Stewart of Standing Ground was the first-ever winner of the latter in 2024.)

The 20 labels will present their collections in Paris on March 5 and 6. From March 5 through to March 9, the public will be able to discover the designers’ collections and vote for their eight favourite candidates on lvmhprize.com. Meet the labels below.

Alainpaul by Alain Paul, France, womenswear, menswear and genderless collections

All-In by Benjamin Barron, United States, and Bror August Vestbø, Norway, womenswear and genderless collections

Boyedoe by David Boye-Doe Kusi, Ghana, genderless collections

Francesco Murano by Francesco Murano, Italy, womenswear

Josh Tafoya by Josh Tafoya, United States, genderless collections

KML by Ahmed Hassan, Saudi Arabia, menswear and genderless collections

Meruert Tolegen by Meruert Planul-Tolegen, United States, womenswear

Mfpen by Sigurd Bank, Denmark, womenswear and menswear

Nicklas Skovgaard by Nicklas Skovgaard, Denmark, womenswear

Penultimate by Xiang Gao, China, genderless collections

Pillings by Ryota Murakami, Japan, womenswear

Renaissance Renaissance by Cynthia Merhej, Lebanon, womenswear

Sinead O’Dwyer by Sinéad O’Dwyer, Ireland, womenswear

Soshiotsuki by Soshi Otsuki, Japan, menswear

Steve O Smith by Steve O Smith, United Kingdom, womenswear and menswear

Tolu Coker by Tolu Coker, United Kingdom, womenswear

Torisheju by Torishéju Dumi, United Kingdom, womenswear and menswear

Yasmin Mansour by Yasmin Mansour, Egypte, womenswear

Young N Sang by Sang Lim Lee et Youngshin Hong, South Korea, menswear

Zomer by Danial Aitouganov, the Netherlands, womenswear

London Fashion Week Finally Has Its Own Shop

That the British Fashion Council should open a retail space dedicated to supporting its homegrown designers is an idea so simple you question why it hasn’t been done before. But in a period of unprecedented hardship, in which brands are navigating raw material shortages, inflation and a cost of living crisis, all in the face of a decimated e-commerce landscape, it feels all the more obvious. And so: from the Saturday (22 February) to Monday (24 February) of the autumn/winter 2025 edition of London Fashion Week, 20 designers – among them 16Arlington, Conner Ives, Knwls, Bianca Saunders, Ahluwalia, Saul Nash, Johanna Parv, Tolu Coker, Di Petsa and Ancuta Sarca – will find a temporary home right at the top of Regent Street. “The ambition is simple: to showcase these businesses and help them generate some cash,” says the BFC’s outgoing CEO Caroline Rush. “It’s going to be a real focal point this season.”

“When Caroline and the team come knocking I can never say no,” adds retail titan Ida Petersson, who was quickly mobilised to curate the pop-up alongside menswear consultant Lewis Bloyce, with whom she worked at Browns. “I have always loved, loved, loved these young designers and to be able to do something like this when the retail climate is as challenging as it is, well, it shines a light.” The rails will include a mix of archive, current season and custom-made pieces across men’s and women’s categories, though genders will be merchandised as one to encourage a sense of exploration among the high street shoppers. It has taken a village – a capital, even – to bring the whole thing to life: All Saints and The Retail Academy have provided sales assistants; 1664 Blanc the free drinks. “It’s like a treasure trove,” Petersson says. “There’s a roughness to the space which I think really speaks to London, too. It has that same rawness that lures people to London Fashion Week in the first place.”

With more than 56,000 members of the public passing through Regent Street on the weekends, the team hopes this space will serve as a forum for those without first-hand experience of the shows. (Broader programming includes sustainability workshops, customisation bars, and a series of talks themed around the future of retail, menswear and the ever slippery notion of community – just a handful of the one hundred activations taking place around the UK this season.) “It takes me back to my student days,” says Bloyce. “When I was desperate to be in the mix, anywhere, anyhow.” The sense of discovery goes both ways: consumers can interact with brands they’ve not seen before, while designers get to meet with an audience of fashion lovers outside the industry bubble. “And of course we have all the international buyers coming to London, too,” says Rush. “We’re hoping to attract them into store, so they can see how great the product looks at retail, and bring the heat of London to the rest of the world.”

Paris Haute Couture S/S´25

 “Haute couture seeks to soar; it offers an escape from the complexities of reality,” remarked Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli on the morning of 27th January, as he inaugurated Paris Haute Couture Week S/S 2025 with a collection aptly named Icarus. The ill-fated figure of Greek mythology served as a metaphor for Roseberry’s relentless pursuit of excellence within the medium—a tireless, almost unattainable ascent towards ever-greater levels of artistry and execution.

¨Following directly on the heels of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, this season’s Haute Couture presentations have brought forth a showcase from the giants of the industry, including Dior, Chanel, and Schiaparelli, alongside luminaries such as Armani Privé and Valentino. The latter’s show on Wednesday marked a particularly anticipated moment—Alessandro Michele’s grand entrance into the world of couture, debuting his first collection at the helm of the esteemed maison.¨ - Charles Daniel McDonald

At its core, haute couture is defined by its unparalleled artisanry and visionary approach. It represents the pinnacle of the fashion industry, an exclusive realm where each creation is meticulously crafted by hand within the couture ateliers, guided by the singular vision of the designer. This exclusivity extends beyond the garments themselves, drawing an elite audience of international clientele, Hollywood luminaries, and fashion connoisseurs, many of whom make the journey to Paris solely to witness the latest offerings from the world’s most prestigious couture houses. Attaining the status of a haute couture maison is no small feat—designers must be officially recognised by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and operate a dedicated atelier with a minimum of 15 full-time artisans, producing at least 35 fully hand-crafted looks per season.

SCHIAPARELLI

For his latest Schiaparelli presentation, Daniel Roseberry extended an invitation like no other—a gilded feather, meticulously sculpted in metal. This symbolic gesture referenced the Greek myth of Icarus, a theme that set the tone for the season’s showcase. "As couturiers, how far can we ascend?" Roseberry pondered, drawing from the tale’s allusions to ambition and transcendence to craft a collection that paid tribute to some of the greatest couturiers in history. Among them were Yves Saint Laurent and Azzedine Alaïa, figures whose influence was unmistakable. "I wasn’t looking to imitate their work," he clarified. "I wanted to absorb their knowledge, to understand their artistry."

At the heart of the collection was a study of silhouette—an exploration of structure, volume, and proportion. Breathtakingly sculptural gowns took centre stage, cinching tightly at the waist before dramatically expanding at the hips, evoking the groundbreaking designs of Charles Frederick Worth. Some pieces incorporated crinoline-inspired frameworks beneath the bust, lending an airy, buoyant quality to the garments as models moved down the runway, striking poised and theatrical stances in a nod to the timeless traditions of haute couture presentations.

Beyond these statement gowns, impeccably tailored jackets highlighted the precision of couture craftsmanship. With sharply defined waists reminiscent of the mid-century era, these structured garments seamlessly transitioned into cascades of weightless tulle, softening their architectural rigidity. The show’s theatricality reached its peak with an opulent opera coat, modelled by Alex Consani, adorned with delicate wisps of feathers, and draped nonchalantly off the shoulders—an embodiment of elegance and sensuality.

Roseberry described his approach to silhouette as "rigorous," and indeed, this season marked a shift towards a more refined and confident vision. The journey began with a collection of vintage ribbons sourced from the 1920s and 1930s, which not only shaped the colour palette—comprising warm beige tones, rich browns, and muted mink greys—but also sparked a broader contemplation on the nature of beauty in fashion.

Why, he questioned, must modernity equate to simplicity and restraint? "Can the contemporary not also embrace excess, ornamentation, and grandeur? Has our relentless pursuit of modern aesthetics led to creative stagnation? Have we, in our quest for minimalism, sacrificed imagination?" With this collection, Roseberry sought to push boundaries, rejecting restraint in favour of lavish embellishment and bold, extravagant design—a celebration of haute couture as the apex of fashion’s artistry.

"Haute couture exists to ascend, to transport us beyond the complexities of the everyday," he reflected. "It reminds us that perfection comes at a cost. How high can we climb? Only as far as the sun—and the Gods—permit."

VALENTINO

Excitement reached fever pitch ahead of Alessandro Michele’s highly anticipated debut haute couture collection for Valentino, unveiled at the historic Palais Brongniart in central Paris on the afternoon of 29 January 2025. “Forty-eight dresses, forty-eight lists,” the Italian designer noted in the extensive press materials provided to guests before the show. His inspiration stemmed from the words of Umberto Eco, who described the list as a mechanism for structuring and containing the boundless possibilities of existence, a means of imposing order on an otherwise chaotic world. Michele embraced this notion, using lists to navigate the infinite creative potential of haute couture—an arena where the expert artisanry of the petite mains transforms limitless imagination into reality.

As models strode across the elongated black runway, a continuous stream of text scrolled across the backdrop. These words and phrases encompassed everything from reflections on silhouette, textiles, and colour palettes to deeper philosophical contemplations, historical references, and personal memories. This display granted the audience a rare glimpse into Michele’s creative process, revealing how he had pieced together an eclectic, time-spanning collection that effortlessly merged different epochs, styles, and artistic influences.

True to Michele’s signature approach, the collection was a visual symphony of contrasts. Majestic, voluminous gowns billowed theatrically, while cascades of ethereal tulle created a dreamlike sense of movement. Elaborate embellishments, rich in texture and detail, added a sense of spectacle, displaying the atelier’s peerless expertise. In his own words, Michele described the collection as “a constellation of visions… a tapestry of interconnected worlds. Each garment is far more than a mere object; rather, it exists as the meeting point of countless references, evoking past eras, diverse cultures, and the echoes of long-forgotten stories.”

This mesmerising debut set the stage for what promises to be a bold new chapter for Valentino, marking Michele’s arrival with a display of exuberant craftsmanship and boundless creative expression.

CHANEL

Marking an impressive 110 years of Chanel haute couture, the iconic Parisian maison unveiled its latest collection on a vast, sweeping stage of interwoven ramps within the Grand Palais. Conceived by American designer Willo Perron, the set design featured fluid, curving pathways that, when viewed from above, subtly mirrored the brand’s signature double-C emblem. At the same time, the loops also evoked the infinity symbol—an apt reflection of Chanel’s enduring legacy as the longest-standing couture house in continuous operation, and a tribute to what the maison described as the “infinite pursuit of haute couture excellence.”

This season also sent a clear message: while anticipation is high for Matthieu Blazy’s arrival as creative director later this year, Chanel remains steadfastly self-sufficient. The collection, crafted entirely by the in-house design team in collaboration with the skilled petites mains of its legendary couture atelier, underscored the maison’s ability to flourish independently.

Presented beneath the crisp winter sunlight filtering through the recently restored domed glass ceiling of the Grand Palais—refurbished for the Olympics—the collection exuded an air of buoyancy and youthful energy. This time, the design team moved beyond Chanel’s traditionally restrained palette, embracing a more daring spectrum of colours. Vivid crimson, deep royal blue, and rich purple stood in striking contrast to the gentle, pastel shades of soft pink, delicate green, and buttery yellow. The inspiration, they revealed, stemmed from Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel’s surprising affinity for colour in the 1980s—an aspect of her work that was brought to light in the 2023 V&A retrospective, despite her name being synonymous with monochromatic black and white.

This nod to the 1980s extended beyond colour choices to the collection’s silhouettes as well. There was an undeniable sense of drama in the voluminous satin capes and sharply structured tailoring, where bold, powerfully defined shoulders made a statement. Yet, for all its strength, the collection maintained an inherent softness. Classic tweed suits were trimmed with delicate layers of gathered tulle, while ethereal organza gowns floated effortlessly, adorned with light-as-air feathers. The result was a collection that felt like a breath of fresh air—an elegant fusion of heritage and modernity, reaffirming Chanel’s place at the pinnacle of haute couture.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER BY LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN

Brussels-born, Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin became the latest— and if speculation proves true, possibly the final—guest designer to helm Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture collection. His S/S 2025 offering, aptly titled Le Naufrage (French for “shipwreck”), was a deeply personal interpretation of the maison’s codes, infused with his own distinctive approach to sensuality. De Saint Sernin, widely recognised for his provocative aesthetic—his previous works include a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and his now-iconic lace-up men’s underwear—was inspired by a music video featuring Seal and Mylène Farmer, where the duo find themselves lost at sea. This imagery formed the foundation of a collection steeped in tempestuous elegance, balancing Gaultier’s signature theatricality with a sense of windblown, salt-kissed abandon.

Every element bore traces of Gaultier’s unmistakable DNA. The collection showcased intricate corsetry, sculptural silhouettes, and extravagant detailing, all amplified by the models’ expressive, almost prowling movements as they commanded the runway at the maison’s historic headquarters. A particularly striking headpiece—a miniature sailing ship—paid direct homage to an iconic design from Gaultier’s archives, first seen in the mid-1990s. Meanwhile, a male model, striding across the stage in little more than underwear and angel wings, was a playful nod to the brand’s longstanding love affair with camp excess.

If the rumours are to be believed, this guest designer initiative is drawing to a close, a decision that would mark the end of one of haute couture’s most dynamic experiments in creative collaboration. From Simone Rocha’s romantic vision to Haider Ackermann’s refined elegance, each invited designer has brought a fresh perspective to the house, injecting it with renewed vitality. De Saint Sernin’s take was no exception—his vision of shipwrecked glamour ensured this chapter ended on a high note.

DIOR

 

This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri ventured into a realm of fantasy, crafting a collection imbued with the dreamlike spirit of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. It reflected what she described as a newfound sense of creative freedom, and that sentiment was evident in her exploration of silhouette. Marking a distinct evolution in her approach at Dior, the collection prominently featured dramatically flared crinoline waistlines—a departure from the fluid, column-like shapes that have largely defined her tenure at the house, rooted in classical Greek and Roman influences.

The A-line form, however, was not a purely whimsical invention. As she has done before, Chiuri delved into Dior’s lesser-known archives, this time drawing from the Trapèze line, originally introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1958 during his brief leadership of the maison following Christian Dior’s passing. This historical reference gave rise to a striking series of opulently embellished mini dresses, their structured crinolines extending outward before cascading into flowing ribbons or layers of delicate tulle.

The collection’s enchanting aesthetic was further heightened by intricate details inspired by nature, echoing the whimsical stage set designed by artist Rithika Merchant. Ethereal ruched tulle was adorned with delicate 3D floral appliqués, evoking the essence of a fantastical woodland, while open-fronted jackets, sharply cinched at the waist, carried echoes of 17th-century court dress. Chiuri revealed that the collection stemmed from a deep fascination with historical costume, describing it as an attempt to "disrupt the linear perception of time, placing us in a space that belongs neither to the past nor the future, but rather to fashion itself and the metamorphosis it represents."

By seamlessly weaving together different eras and aesthetics—almost as if stepping through a looking glass into an alternate reality—Chiuri allowed herself a creative freedom that resulted in what may be her most opulent haute couture collection to date.

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ

“Creating is the essence of my existence,” declared Giorgio Armani ahead of his latest Armani Privé showcase, a milestone event marking two decades of the couture division of the renowned Milanese fashion house, first launched in January 2005. This momentous occasion also served as the official unveiling of Palazzo Armani, a grand new residence situated in Paris’ prestigious 8th arrondissement, which will now house the Privé atelier and design studio. A contemporary wing, seamlessly integrated into the 19th-century structure, is set to become Armani’s official headquarters in the French capital.

The collection, presented on an iridescent runway winding through the upper floors of the palazzo—reminiscent of the intimate salon-style couture presentations of bygone eras—radiated an unmistakably celebratory energy. Titled Lumières, or “Lights,” the collection was meticulously crafted to reflect and refract illumination. In keeping with the signature aesthetic of Privé, the designs were opulently adorned, featuring an intricate interplay of crystals and coloured gemstones that shimmered across the surface of sumptuous textiles. Fluid silhouettes, influenced by the graceful drapery of traditional Eastern garments, reinforced the collection’s ethereal and sophisticated character.

At 90 years old, Mr Armani remains at the heart of his empire, with this year marking several other career-defining anniversaries, including half a century since the founding of his eponymous label, Giorgio Armani. As the show drew to a close, the designer took his customary victory lap, linking arms with one of his radiant model muses as he walked the runway to a standing ovation—a fitting tribute to his enduring legacy in haute couture.

Paris Haute Couture S/S 2025 was a season defined by ambition, transformation, and a reverence for the craft’s rich history. From Daniel Roseberry’s exploration of artistic heights at Schiaparelli to Alessandro Michele’s highly anticipated debut at Valentino, each collection was a testament to haute couture’s enduring power to inspire and innovate. Designers looked to mythology, archival references, and historical dress, reinterpreting them through modern lenses while staying true to the meticulous artisanry that defines this rarefied world. Whether through the structured silhouettes of Dior, the opulent embellishments of Armani Privé, or the shipwrecked romance of Jean Paul Gaultier by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, this season’s collections demonstrated that couture remains an art form that is as much about storytelling as it is about fashion.

More than just a week of spectacle, Paris Haute Couture serves as a beacon of creativity, reminding the world of the unparalleled skill, imagination, and dedication that couture represents. It is a space where designers push beyond the boundaries of what is possible, where garments are imbued with meaning, history, and craftsmanship that cannot be replicated. As this season draws to a close, the collections leave an indelible mark—not just as feats of design but as symbols of fashion’s highest aspirations. Whether through the revival of classic silhouettes, experimental forms, or a reassertion of the grandeur that defines haute couture, S/S 2025 reaffirmed that this tradition, now more than a century old, is still evolving, still reaching for the extraordinary, and still defining the future of fashion.

Milan Men´s A/W´25

"Fashion is the art of capturing the moment, blending tradition with innovation," a sentiment that perfectly encapsulates Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025. Over four dynamic days, Milan reaffirmed its place as the global capital of menswear, highlighting an extraordinary tapestry of creativity, artisanry, and forward-thinking design. While the absence of major players like Gucci, Fendi, and JW Anderson raised questions about the event’s future, the collections presented demonstrated that Milan remains a vital hub for defining modern menswear.

"Milan Fashion Week stands as a testament to the unparalleled creativity and craftsmanship that define the city’s essence. It is where storied heritage meets avant-garde experimentation, and tradition is masterfully reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. This week is not merely about highlighting garments; it’s about storytelling, cultural dialogue, and pushing the boundaries of design. Milan consistently reminds the world why it remains a cornerstone of the fashion industry, blending its deep respect for history with a fearless embrace of the future." - Charles Daniel McDonald

The week offered a compelling blend of aesthetics, from the cerebral explorations of Prada to the heritage-inspired craftsmanship of Zegna and the subversive, emotional narratives of Magliano. Each designer brought a unique voice to the runway, ensuring that this season was as diverse as it was inspiring.

PRADA

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that delved deep into the realms of human instinct and creativity. The Prada show was staged at the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito space, featuring a monumental three-storey scaffolding structure that served as both a physical and symbolic framework for the collection. This intricate setup, combined with an art nouveau carpet, created a juxtaposition of industrial rawness and refined elegance, setting the tone for the eclectic designs that followed.

The collection was a tapestry of diverse elements, reflecting a deliberate departure from overanalysed fashion norms. Simons emphasised the importance of "creativity without overthinking," aiming to protect and value human instinct. This philosophy manifested in a range of garments that blended ruggedness with sophistication. Models donned slouchy denim paired with fur-collared coats, fur pelt vests, and patchworked distressed-leather suiting. The inclusion of scuffed-toe cowboy boots and plaid patterns further underscored the collection's rebellious yet thoughtful spirit.

A notable aspect was the use of talismans and totems, hung around the necks of models, symbolising a safeguard of human creativity in an era increasingly dominated by technology. This motif resonated with the overarching theme of instinctual design, challenging the homogenisation of culture. The designers' intent to rebel against cultural uniformity was evident in the diverse silhouettes and materials, ranging from raw-edged shearling to sleek satin.

The collection also paid homage to Americana, with Western-inspired detailing on knit sweaters, spangled stars, and those distinctive cowboy boots. This blend of cultural references created a narrative that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking, encapsulating a desire for freedom and individuality. Prada's ability to merge disparate elements into a cohesive and thought-provoking collection highlighted the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of contemporary menswear.

ZEGNA

Alessandro Sartori's latest collection for Zegna was a profound homage to the brand's rich heritage in wool artisanry. The show was set in a vast conference center on the outskirts of Milan, transformed into a verdant landscape reminiscent of the Australian and New Zealand meadows where Zegna sources its premium merino wool. Real grass underfoot and expansive screens displaying serene pastoral scenes immersed attendees in the brand's foundational narrative.

Central to the collection was the introduction of Vellus Aureum, an ultra-lightweight wool fleece that holds a world record for its fineness. Sartori utilised this exceptional material to craft shirts that were deceptively light, resembling the feel of cotton, yet retaining the luxurious properties of wool. Heritage houndstooth overcoats and tailoring, cut in relaxed, oversised proportions, paid tribute to traditional sartorial elegance while embracing contemporary comfort.

The collection also featured shearling-collar jackets, double-breasted and satisfyingly cocooning, which stood out as highlights of the season. These pieces encapsulated the brand's dedication to merging luxury with functionality. Sartori described the collection as reflecting a man who has "raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades, for their emotional and material value." This narrative was evident in the use of washed wools and the lived-in feel of the garments, evoking a sense of timelessness and personal history.

A surprise highlight of the show was the appearance of actor John Turturro on the runway, adding a touch of cinematic flair to the presentation. His presence underscored the collection's blend of traditional artisanry and contemporary relevance, bridging the gap between classic menswear and modern sensibilities.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana transformed their Metropol Theatre into a cinematic spectacle, drawing inspiration from Federico Fellini's iconic film La Dolce Vita. The show, aptly titled "Paparazzi," featured a burgundy-hued red carpet runway flanked by a cadre of sharply-dressed photographers, their cameras flashing incessantly as models emerged, capturing the duality of public and private life inherent to cinema icons.

The collection was a rich tapestry that traversed the spectrum from casual daywear to opulent evening attire. The initial looks exuded a laid-back elegance, with models donning relaxed denim ensembles, plush faux-fur jackets, and oversized duffle bags, embodying a contemporary, off-duty actor aesthetic. As the show progressed, the designs transitioned into more formal territory, displaying three-piece satin suits, cummerbunds, and tuxedos adorned with glimmering crystal brooches and buttons. This progression mirrored the journey from the quotidian to the glamorous, encapsulating the life of a cinema icon from dawn to dusk.

The designers revisited their early-2000s aesthetic, incorporating elements such as bulked-up faux-fur jackets, slouchy denim jeans, cargo pants, baker-boy hats, and flourishes of leopard print and sequins. These pieces evoked a sense of nostalgia while remaining firmly rooted in contemporary fashion dialogues. The collection's eveningwear segment was particularly noteworthy, with tuxedos nipped at the waist with cummerbunds, exuding a timeless elegance that harkened back to Hollywood's golden era.

Dolce & Gabbana's ability to seamlessly blend the public and private facets of celebrity life into their designs resulted in a collection that was both introspective and celebratory. By capturing the essence of cinema icons and their dual realities—balancing the glamour of red-carpet appearances with the authenticity of their off-screen lives—the designers created a narrative that felt deeply personal yet universally resonant.

MAGLIANO

Luca Magliano’s collection transported audiences to the Adriatic coastline, but not in its sunny, idyllic form. Instead, the designer conjured a moody, windswept beach on a winter’s night, infused with a sense of rebellion and introspection. The runway, scattered with sand, set the tone for a narrative rooted in darkness and defiance, where figures roamed in search of solace or indulged in clandestine trysts.

Magliano’s designs embodied this duality of freedom and despair. Faux-fur coats slouched from shoulders, trousers hung loose and turned inside out, and undergarments stretched haphazardly over handbags. This Magliano aesthetic of disarray was deliberate, evoking the raw, hastily thrown-together outfits of night-time wanderers. The garments, while appearing undone, highlighted the designer's meticulous artisanry and understanding of fabric manipulation.

The collection blended bourgeois Italian style with underground subculture, a signature of Magliano’s work. This season, the influences of queer clubwear were particularly prominent, reflecting the designer’s deep connection to Bologna’s history of protest and revolution. The inclusion of techno-inspired soundtracks and cinematic lighting further enhanced the evocative atmosphere, making Magliano’s show a standout for its emotional depth and boundary-pushing creativity.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani's latest collection explored the theme of "seduction" through tactile fabrics and versatile designs. Giorgio Armani’s vision was to create an all-encompassing wardrobe that could adapt to various climates and occasions. The result was a collection that oscillated between glamour and functionality, offering a sophisticated take on modern menswear.

Molten velvet tailoring, shimmering lurex knitwear, and patchworked brocades set the tone for a rich and opulent aesthetic. The collection also featured yeti-inspired faux-fur coats, puffer jackets, and utility-focused crossbody bags, catering to men who seek practicality without sacrificing style. Armani described this interplay of extremes as a key focus, blending functional outerwear with the brand’s signature elegance.

The mood of travel and adventure was palpable, with designs that felt equally suited for metropolitan streets and mountainous terrains. From velvet evening jackets to technical hiking gear, Emporio Armani’s collection demonstrated the brand’s ability to cater to diverse lifestyles while maintaining a cohesive identity. The show ended with a rapturous reception for Armani, underscoring his enduring influence and creative vitality as he continues his 90th birthday celebrations.

DUNHILL

Simon Holloway’s Dunhill collection, presented in the opulent Società del Giardino, was a masterful display of British heritage tailored for modern audiences. The setting—a private Milanese member’s club—perfectly complemented the collection’s refined aesthetic, with champagne and cucumber sandwiches providing a quintessentially English touch.

Holloway drew inspiration from the 1930s English Drape Suit, also known as the London Cut, characterised by its fluid silhouette, nipped waist, and sporting shoulder. This theme was evident in the wide-lapelled camel overcoats, high-waisted trousers, and pinstriped and plaid ensembles that dominated the collection. Eveningwear looks, complete with velvet slippers and ribbed knitwear, harkened back to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication.

What set this collection apart was Holloway’s meticulous approach to refinement. Instead of chasing trends, the designer focused on perfecting classic garments through superior cuts and fabrications. The result was a collection that felt both timeless and contemporary, reaffirming Dunhill’s reputation as a purveyor of understated luxury.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani’s menswear collection celebrated individuality and the rejection of pre-packaged fashion formulas. The designer’s mantra, “elegance to live in,” was brought to life through a series of fluid, versatile pieces that balanced luxury with practicality.

The collection featured a mix of relaxed tailoring and functional outerwear, with cargo-style pockets appearing on blazers and trousers. Soft, noble fibres such as merino wool, cashmere, and silk added a tactile richness to the designs, enhancing their wearability. Armani also incorporated sporty influences, including iridescent ski-inspired outerwear that provided a contemporary edge.

A significant highlight was Armani’s reinterpretation of his iconic 1980s and 1990s designs. By drawing on his archive and reimagining it for a new generation, the designer proved his enduring relevance in the fashion world. The show concluded with a sense of optimism, as Armani reminded audiences of the timeless appeal of pragmatic glamour.

Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025 reaffirmed the city’s position as a cornerstone of global fashion, offering a remarkable synthesis of tradition and innovation. Each collection brought its unique perspective to the forefront, with highlights ranging from Prada’s instinct-driven exploration of human creativity to Zegna’s heartfelt tribute to the artisanal legacy of wool. Magliano’s subversive take on identity and rebellion, Dolce & Gabbana’s cinematic homage to Hollywood, and the dual brilliance of Emporio and Giorgio Armani encapsulated the extraordinary range of creativity that defines Milan.

The absence of notable players like Gucci and JW Anderson may have raised questions about the future format of the week, but the sheer quality of the collections presented ensured that the event maintained its relevance and vibrancy. The designers demonstrated an exceptional ability to balance nostalgia with modernity, offering a vision of menswear that honours its roots while looking boldly to the future.

Milan Fashion Week was not just a display of garments; it was a celebration of storytelling, cultural dialogue, and the artistry of design. From innovative fabric techniques to meticulously crafted silhouettes, every collection reflected the designers’ dedication to pushing the boundaries of what menswear can be. The week proved that even in a condensed format, Milan remains an unparalleled force in defining and shaping the global fashion narrative.

As the industry continues to evolve, Milan Fashion Week’s ability to adapt, innovate, and inspire ensures its lasting legacy. With its mix of emerging talents and iconic powerhouses, the city continues to lead the charge, offering a compelling glimpse into the ever-expanding possibilities of menswear for seasons to come.