Among the notable absentees from the show schedule is Maison Margiela, amid press reports that creative director John Galliano is leaving (the brand declined to comment). Maison Margiela is planning to host an event on 30 September, with “further details to follow in due course”, the brand said. Galliano’s most recent show was for spring/summer 2024 haute couture week in January, and the brand showed women’s ready-to-wear in February 2020, October 2020, 2021 and 2023. In January 2023, the brand also held a co-ed show at the end of men’s week in its new headquarters on the Place des États-Unis.
Off-White will also be absent as it makes its New York debut. Altogether, the spring/summer 2025 women’s ready-to-wear calendar, which will run from 23 September to 1 October, features a total of 70 shows and 38 presentations – compared to 67 and 40 for spring/summer 2024.
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Chanel on 1 October will hold its first ready-to-wear show since Virginie Viard bowed out, designed by the studio. Dries Van Noten’s collection will also be by the studio, after the eponymous designer bid farewell in June. Other highlights will include Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Loewe, Chloé, Balmain, Alexander McQueen, Hermès, The Row and Victoria Beckham. After Louis Vuitton closes the curtain of the official calendar on 1 October, fashion week-goers will spend the evening at Disneyland where Coperni is staging its show. With some dismantling of the Olympic installations still going on, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) has advised its members to avoid show venues in the Place de la Concorde area.
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